paul.h

Welcome to the forum. If you disconnect the fuel tank level electrical connector does the indicated level then show no level - if not then it is most likely a problem with the software update since it started then (or if they disturbed the wiring behind the dash then maybe they caused a wiring fault). In this case I would ask the dealer to redo the software update or even put the old one back to prove the fault. If the indicated level does fall, then it could just be a coincidence the problem started when the software was updated and it could be the fuel level sensor (or its wiring) has developed a fault. You could measure the resistance across the sensor electrical pins and then put more fuel in and see if it changes. You could even remove the sensor (has a fuel pump as part of it), seal the tank opening to stop any petrol fumes and risk of igniting them, connect the sensor again and then watch the indicated level as you move the sensor float. Did the heating work correctly before the software update but then developed the fault straight away - if so then again the software may be the problem. If the problem happened sometime after the update then for some reason the warm air flap in the heating can not be moving. This could be a controller problem, a temperature sensor problem, a flap control motor problem or its connection to the flap. Sometimes electrical problems can be fixed by doing a battery disconnection/reconnection and in the Technical section Common Problems pinned topic there is a procedure I have used that has not resulted in odd electrical problems.

This may be a C4 Picasso since this is the only C4 that has an exclusive + in the current Citroen price list on their website.

The C5 only uses pressure to raise the car - you can hear the pump running but when set to lower it does not run but the car quietly goes down. Before jacking the car up it should be raised to max height, it says this in the handbook, and this will avoid any suspension system problems. The best place for the stands will be at the jacking points on the sills - but then jacking up becomes a problem. I normally use axle stands whilst leaving the car jack in place and at the rear put a stand under the round cylinder that points down and at the front under the suspension arm at a strong welded flat part. Maybe these points could be used for a jack. You could consider buying 3 extra jacks instead of axle stands and leaving them in place at the sill jacking points. A 2004 to 2008 C5 jack is part no. 672596 and a 2001 to 2004 C5 jack is 672591. The former is £23 and the latter £44 from citroencarparts.net so will be about this from a dealer. These are without the jack handle but you already have this.

The drum bearings appear to be one outer shell with 2 inner races which may look like taper bearings but with the hub nut being torqued to 200 Nm (lubricated) will not be taper ones. The inner races will be a loose fit until the hub nut is tightened.

I believe the BX suspension used hydraulic pressure to raise and also to lower the car - so with the body supported the wheels would lift off the floor. One thought, caravans do not move very often and due to low mileage covered it is recommended to replace the tyres after about 5 years as opposed to waiting for them to wear out. Some people remove the wheels when not going to be used for some time but most do not bother (including myself) but I check the pressures every couple of months and check them for any damage/cracks and this is also done at the annual service. Caravan tyres are often reinforced ones due to the caravan weight but whether this makes a difference I do not know.

Who wants to go to London anyway, never mind drive there. Only drove there once in 1981 and then it took forever to get around. Notice wagons and buses are not mentioned - the shops would be empty without diesel wagons. What about taxis ?

Thank you for getting back to us and hopefully it was not too expensive to fix. I have changed the topic title slightly to help when searching.

Our C5 does not get used much but after about 3 or 4 weeks the battery will go flat and not start the car once below about 12 volts. A recent new battery does not seem as bad though but it has been like this since we got it at about 4 years old and our previous C5 was the same. The alarm seems to use quite a lot of power - hence disconnecting it would prevent this. If a battery voltage drops below about 11 volts I think they may not be recoverable by charging. In the Technical Section there is a pinned topic on Common Problems with a procedure for disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. We keep it in our garage but the discs do get a covering of rust in this time and I leave the handbrake off (but in gear) but even then sometimes the pads stick on. If it is put away wet the brakes will stick so I try not to do this. The fuel filters do have a water drain.

Check the front edge of the bonnet at the V in the middle (and elsewhere on it, also open it to check). The paint can bubble and it is a common problem (an internet search will bring up many cases). It is supposed to be caused by a fault in manufacture and Citroen's response is to replace the bonnet with a new one and paint it to the car colour. Our 2011 C4 has just developed a bubble about 1 cm long and we are waiting for our dealer to confirm if Citroen will repair it at no cost to us (it is outside the 3 year paint and defect warranties that could apply) - the cost is about £900. Other problems on our 2011 C4 1.6 hdi 110 bhp VTR+ - the radio/clock would reset quite often when starting the engine but this was fixed by a software update at the dealer, the engine fusebox retaining clip broke needing a new lid so it was not loose, a rattle from the engine compartment which needs a tie wrap to tighten the engine air intake pipe at the front and is replaced at each service. If it is a Citroen dealer you should be getting a 1 year warranty as standard on a Citroen used/approved car, so the 3 year one is really only 2 extra years. When getting our last C3 we looked at Evans Halshaw Citroen, the used cars seemed a low price but only came with a 3 month warranty - once the cost of a 1 year one was added plus a few other things, the car was expensive compared to ones at other Citroen dealers - so despite liking the car, we went elswhere and got a better deal. One problem with warranties, you have to get the car serviced at a VAT registered garage and following the car manufacturers schedule (not a problem if you do this anyway) - you may even need to get it serviced now. If it is a breakdown warranty and there is a fault, you have to pay for any checks to prove it is a break down and not gradual wear. They may not always pay for new Citroen parts but could be aftermarket ones or reconditioned ones. You should read all the small print before deciding on whether it is a good warranty. If you do your own servicing, you need to look at the labour costs you save, plus the £750 and consider if this would cover any likely faults. Years ago I had such a breakdown warranty on a Saab 9-5 (it just came with it from the dealer). The steering rack seals failed losing all the oil, the warranty company would only pay for a reconditioned rack so I paid the extra to have a new Saab one and also new track rod ends. Also at this time the exhaust was smoking a bit indicating the turbo was on its way out which the dealer agreed with but the warranty company would not pay since it had yet to break down - I could pay to have it stripped down and inspected but would then be stuck having to pay for any repairs if the warranty company would not pay. So I left it but a few months after the warranty ran out, the turbo did fail needing a new one and an exhaust catalyst.

I think you have made the better choice, the C4 being larger than the C3 is more of a family car and has more room in the back for passengers. Things to watch for as a new driver of a C4, the seat head rests are quite large and can get in the way when trying to look around, the door mirrors are a nice shape but they do not give a good view of cars on the motorway that are overtaking so need to be careful when lane changing, if the rear windows and tailgate window are tinted they take a bit of getting used to - at night I used to think the mirror was set in the dim position, the blade in the ignition key is at right angles to ones on other cars so it takes a bit of getting used to when putting it in the ignition switch and helps if the key is laid flat in your fingers. The car may not have a spare wheel/jack/wheel nut brace/yellow plastic tool to remove the plastic wheel bolt caps/plastic tray that these go in and rests in the spare wheel - these were an option and the car was normally supplied with a yellow electric pump and a tube of puncture sealant (which has a use by date of about 3 years). To buy the wheel, etc is about £200 from a dealer. If you want to look at the car handbook it can be read/saved/printed from the service.citroen site - you may need to select your language first http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

You would be best to disconnect the battery from the car, even consider removing it and taking it with you so you can charge it every month or 2. Not using a car has a few negatives and if not stored in an air conditioned garage it could suffer. The following are some thoughts but there may be things to advise on storage on the internet: The brake discs will rust and the pads sieze to them, so it may help to remove the pads or as a minimum leave the handbrake off but this may not be enough and will not help the rear brakes. You could consider putting something like polythene between the pads and discs. When you come to use the car again it may take a few miles for the rust to clear from the discs so normal braking is hopefully achieved - if not the discs may need replacing. The clutch may also stick to the flywheel so consider holding down the clutch pedal. It is likely the air conditioning seals will dry out if not used every month so that the refrigerant will leak out. If this happens it is likely you will need a new compressor to get it going again - or just accept the air con will not work again. The fuel may degrade, if diesel and there is any water in the tank you could get biological growth like jelly - there may be additives you could use and the marine industry might have something.

If you did this the wheels/tyres would still be on the ground since the suspension needs the weight of the car pushing down for the suspension to lower. The suspension struts are not like a 2 way hydraulic ram, only using hydraulic pressure to raise the car. The weight would be shared with the wheels and stands but as you suggest, the height sensors will not be in the correct position for the height selected so it may affect the controller.

They would not seem to be related but possibly could be a bad connection somewhere such as on the ecu or an earth point or maybe the wiring repairs got the connections wrong. See if there are any more comments. On here on the Petrol Diesel and LPG Injection section those codes are listed as: P0120 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction P0560 System Voltage Malfunction

Welcome to the forum. Citroen seem to do one for the old C4 but not the new one but a google search brings up lots of other companies who make them. Just need a recommendation from somebody. One for the old C4 http://www.accessories.citroen.co.uk/national-accessory-selector/Dog-Guard-C4-943/?modelId=708&categoryId=886&subCategoryId=913&pageSize=10

The parts diagrams do not show an egr valve on the petrol engines.

All the parts in the different models are different so to check really needs you to look at all the models and measure up the fixing points (or provide your own). Any electrics may not be compatible across the models.

Welcome to the forum. If the check engine light can not be deleted then the fault(s) that put it on must still be there, but possibly it is not something that affects the performance or puts it in limp mode, such as the exhaust catalyst needing replacing. Can you put the fault codes on here so we can see what they mean/whether somebody else has seen them.

Talking to one of our neighbours today, their Audi A6 uses adblue and is how you describe for the A6 to add it, next to the diesel filling nozzle. They had to top up after getting the warning messages after about 6000 miles and managed to get some from a BP garage. Unfortunately, despite the container being new and not opened, it tipped over and spilt in the car boot - now as it has dried out the boot carpet is full of white urea crystals and is also a bit smelly.

Welcome to the forum. Is your radio the Navi drive with a built in hard drive - we have this on our 2007 C5 2.2 hdi vtx. A dealer will be able to do an update, either by a down load if you have the hard drive or if on a cd, sell you one. A bit of info here http://citroen.navigation.com/C5-2007/NaviDrive-RT4-5-Europe-Risk-Area-Alerts--2014-2015-Edition/citroen-eu/product/T1000-22070C/en_GB/EUR/ and some more here http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/407-41/map-2013-rt3-rt4-5-rneg-65010/ I have never bothered up dating our sat nav, it was last checked about 2010 but if a new road is not on it I select one nearby.

I would guess the loom splits at the good holder, if so you could possibly check it here or run a new wire from here without removing the bumper. You could do a meter continuity check between the 2 holders before disconnecting anything - so should have little resistance between the 2 +ve terminals and similarly between the 2 earth terminals if the wiring is ok.

Is it a metallic sound or air sound (such as from a baloon) and does it pulse ? Are there any smells ? Do the brakes work normally (thinking of a vaccum pump problem) ? If it is the turbo I would not want to run the engine. If the turbo breaks up a lot of metal will get in to the engine and destroy it. May be you could look for bits of metal in the intercooler piping. You could look on top of the injectors for any oil/carbon that could indicate an injector seal leak.

According to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, both no. plate lights have the same 12v supply and earth wiring - so if one bulb is receiving 12 volts and has a good earth but the other does not have these, then the problem could be a corroded bulb holder or its wiring connections or a broken wire between the 2 bulb holders. The first thing would be to access the back of a bulb holder - Haynes says to remove a holder without removing the bumper, push the holder to one side and then ease it out but this could damage the securing clip.

If you are lucky, it will not just be a coincidence. On the other key is there a bunch of other things hanging off it that could be causing it to turn slightly ? We had a Rover 214 that juddered and needed a clutch but how bad it was depended a bit on the weather and it was always worse when first used each day.

There have been a lot of new members recently and many may not have read this disclaimer. It is referred to in the New Member Introduction section in the pinned topic Welcome To New Members.

On different cars, a few of us had false high temperature warnings - some as one offs but others frequent and for these, replacing the faulty coolant temp sensors was the fix. As done, you should first always assume the warning is correct and then do checks to show it is false, just in case there is a mechanical problem. On the 1.6 petrol 125 bhp vti AL4 auto gearbox, up to RPO 12291, the temp sensor (1338F3) is at the gearbox end of the cylinder head on the top of a hose box (outlet tank). It is held by a U-clip and has an O-ring seal.