paul.h

The more you tell us the worse it gets. If you have used a credit card to part pay for the car then the credit card company is also liable. You can check the MOT history which includes the mileage on-line without needing to contact DVLA. Just need the MOT test number from the certificate or the V5C number. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle

Welcome to the forum. The rear wheel bearing is part of the rear hub so both are replaced as one including the hub nut, the hub cap/cover and the abs radial target which should be part of the hub - check this when buying. The hub/bearing/nut/cap/radial target come together as Citroen part no. 374887 (and the radial target 454919 which should be part of the hub) but these should be checked using your VIN. You may also want to replace the brake discs/pads at the same time since these will need removing. So to replace it the procedure is: - jack up, use an axle stand and remove rear wheel. - remove the brake caliper bolts and hang the caliper to one side (no need to disconnect the brake pipes/hoses from the caliper), remove the brake pads and remove the caliper support bracket. Note if you have an electric handbrake the procedure is different. - remove the brake disc (chances are this will be rusted to the hub and may need knocking off with a hammer against a piece of wood to avoid damage if you are re-using it). - remove the hub cap (knock off with a screwdriver and hammer). - remove the hub nut (you may need to knock out the peened over shoulder used to lock it). It may need a 30 mm AF socket but I am not sure. - pull off the wheel hub - a puller may be needed. Citroen's procedures also say to remove the brake back plate and abs sensor but this could be so they are not in the way of the puller. - clean up the axle (file/emery paper) so the new bearing will go on - Citroen show a tool being used to push against the inner bearing shell to fit it on the axle but this is probably not needed. - refitting is a reversal but make sure the brake disc/hub contact surfaces are clean and flat to avoid possible disc runout but this should be checked anyway once the disc is on. - if a new disc is used then also replace the pads and disc/pads on the other side of the car. If the disc is a premium one with silver paint on it, then the paint does not need removing but if it has grease on to prevent corrosion then this must first be removed (brake cleaner works well). - grease the face of the hub nut and tighten to 250 Nm then lock it (probably this means to knock in part of the nut shoulder in to a cut out in the axle - use a hammer and a drift or the ball on another hammer to do this). - the caliper support bracket bolts could need a torx bit and need tightening to 108 Nm. - the caliper bolts holding it to the support are tightened to 28 Nm if needing an allen key type of bit to undo or to 35 Nm if needing a normal socket. - the disc screws again need a torx bit and tightening to 10 Nm. - if fitting new brake pads, the caliper piston needs winding in clockwise using a tool. It is good practice to let the brake fluid out of the bleed scew so that any dirt in the caliper is not pushed back in to the hydraulics - so whilst the piston is being moved back, have the bleed screw at a high point, crack it open and then let the fluid out (use a bleed pipe in to a container to catch it, or a lot of rags), tighten it again as soon as the piston is back so air does not enter. Then once the pads are in place and the caliper fastened back, pump the brake pedal a few times to move the piston back out before fitting the handbrake cable. Repeat this once the car is back on the road. - the wheel bolts should be tightened to 100 Nm.

The best thing you could do is look at the parts diagrams using your VIN (VIS) to get your car and the Citroen part nos. Then use these to find the right bits, these are likely to be under Bodywork, Front Section. You can also use the numbers in the keyword search box on the citroencarparts.net site to find the cost at a dealer since sometimes ebay prices may not be much less than new ones. The parts diagrams are a free service on the service.citroen site - you need to register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. When checking if the part nos. are the same on other models of C3, click on the filter button and it will then show all the parts as well as your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres http://www.citroencarparts.net/

For windscreen cleaning on inside/outside, I have used all sorts such as - damp cloth sometimes with a bit of washing up liquid, de-icer in a tissue, white spirit/turps. Has the car dealer offered any help with the problems ?

Sometimes this can be the connectors below the seats have been disturbed when the seats have been moved. You could also try the passenger seat airbag switch. If checking these does not help then the airbag fault code will need reading and clearing to find out what is wrong. A low cost code reader is unlikely to read air bag fault codes since these normally only cover engine ones that affect exhaust emissions. Whilst the fault light is on it is likely the air bag system will not work in the event of a crash so drive carefully and it is also possible it could affect an insurance claim if the air bags did not work when needed.

Welcome to the forum. I am not sure I can help much but have the anti pollution fault/engine light and limp mode now cleared - if not you will need to use a code reader to find the fault and delete the fault code since anything else would just be a guess and trying to replace parts hoping to find the right one can be expensive. Except in really cold weather, the glow plugs are not used much so may not have prevented starting.

On the trip display, if this is the mpg/miles covered/miles left to empty one, have you tried to reset it by holding in the button on the end of the wiper stalk ? These only go up to the equivalent of 9999 km and then stop (about 6300 miles), otherwise an extra digit would be needed. If it is the miles covered on the speedo then these go up to 1500 miles (I think) and then start again at 0 miles. If it is the miles to next service display, then on Citroens it can usually be reset by holding in the speedo trip button, turning the ignition key so the dash lights up and then waiting for it to count down to =0, then release the button - but check this in your handbook. For the fuel tank level, try the electrical connection resistance checks in the previous posts, just in case it is a coincidence the level sensor is not working after the service. How much fuel did you put in the tank to fill it up ?

On here fault code P0400 gives: P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction So it could be something simple such as a small split in one of the actuator vacuum hoses.

Welcome to the forum. Have a look in your handbook to see what needs to be done if the battery is disconnected and then reconnected - probably set date/time, operate electric windows to reset anti pinch and maybe retune the radio. Citroen's procedures for the Xsara do not mention needing to use a code if the radio is disconnected and the Citroens we've had all had radios that were coded to the car, so if the battery was removed they worked again once the battery was connected without needing a code to be entered.

Welcome to the forum. All I could easily find on electric seats was that the front ones are electrically heated (need engine running for this to work) but no mention of electric adjustments. Have a look in the car handbook and it shows the 2 usual fuseboxes - in the dash and under the bonnet. If it shows a spare fuse location in the dash one and you find in your car there is a fuse there it may be for the seats - it will be about 25 amps (based on one in a C5). If not then look to see if there are any additional fuses in this area which could be for the seats. If you do not find anything then have a look in the engine fusebox.

Sounds as if there is a fault. The brakes may be seized and need cleaning or the servo may not be working - the brake pedal should go down further when the engine is running than when it is switched off. I have not driven a Saxo but the Citroens I have driven all had good brakes.

Are you sure the O-ring was rubber and not gold ? Just checked the exchange rate so the cost was about 140 UK pounds so if it is the only repair needed this year then not too bad.

Did the Citroen people check the oil level was correct and that the oil seemed the right type ? If not I would be tempted to change the oil, according to the Haynes manual it should be SAE 75W-80W to API GL5. In any case I would be going back to your garage and they should contact who did the clutch to complain/find out what was done and what make of parts were used. If you did not have clutch judder before the new one was installed, then there is a chance it may go as the new one beds in. If it does not then your garage ought to replace it. If it does need new bearings, they are not that difficult to replace if you have a few days, there will be 6 in total, 2 on the input shaft, 2 on the output one and 2 on the differential. I guess if you did not do the clutch then you probably would not want to do the gearbox. If paying somebody to do it, a box from another car is probably cheaper.

If the service on your C4 2006 1.6HDI was done by a Citroen dealer they may have done a software update which caused the problem. I would contact them to see what they did. I have deleted your similar post so all replies are kept in one place.

That is a big bill for a car you have not had long, no wonder you are upset. When you had the diagnostic check did the Citroen dealer find anything on the cruise control ? This could be something simple such as a fault with a brake pedal switch. A search on P1671 brought this up on the BBA reman site: P1607/P1671 For MM6LP I have found this fault caused by a software issue in the BSI. A hard reset for the BSI may sort it out temporarily. So you could try a battery disconnection/reconnection to see if this clears the fault. What is wrong with the windscreen ?

From brochures for 2003 and 2007 C5s: The auto hatchback mark 1 2.0 hdi at 110 bhp is lower powered than the mark 2 (138 bhp) and has better fuel efficiency - 32/55/43 mpg urban/extra urban/combined and 173 g/km CO2 vs 28/51/40 mpg 189 g/km. The mark 1 also weighs less - kerb weight 1410 kg vs 1554 kg.

You are going to get all sorts of replies to this. Whether a FAP will give you problems may depend on the type of driving you do and the mileage of the car you choose. If you only do short trips with little motorway use and your annual mileage is not that great then you could consider a mark 1 diesel or a mark 2 petrol and then no need to worry about a FAP (dpf) - or just accept having one is better for the environment but expect at about 80k miles you may need to pay for the dpf/eolys fluid unless you get a car that has already had them serviced. I would expect most mark 1 cars are on high miles and could need higher maintenance costs due to wear but even then the youngest mark 2 will be about 7-8 years. The mark 2 is an improvement on the previous model, it handles better and the front end looks better. The rear of the hatchback though I think does not look as good with the lights extending onto the boot.

A flat battery in the remote would stop the remote working the locks but not the key. Look in your handbook at the fuse list and see if one does the locking and if so then you can check it. Does the lock button on the dash (if there is one) work the locks ? Possibilities could include a broken wire between the driver's door and the door pillar, a bad earth point, a central locking controller fault.

It is easy enough to depressurise the back (no need to do the front). Raise to max height (if possible), put on axle stands at the back, disconnect the battery (see procedure in the Technical section pinned Common Problems topic) so the pump will not run, slacken the lds tank to release any air pressure, then at the back in about the middle is a bleed nipple - put a container under it and then slacken it which will release the pressure. Not much fluid will come out until the suspension arms are jacked up to compress the strut so it can be released from the arm knuckle (check the R pin is loose a few days before and if not put some oil or similar on it). Coastline will advise when it is best to slacken the sphere since it may be easier with or without pressure in the system. The C5 spheres are a different size to other Citroens so possibly a different size to your existing tool may be needed for removal. I got one from here, they are made to order and take a few days for delivery. I have not yet used it but it looks up to the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-sphere-removal-tool-/111602994874?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item19fc0e8eba I do not think any coding is needed, and to bleed the system if the pump does not work, I have read on here you just need to blow in the tank to prime the pump and then take the suspension up and down a few times. You might need 2 or 3 litres of lds fluid. When the dealer replaced one strut on our C5, they charged for 1 litre but a bit later I had to add another to get the level right.

Wd40 is ok to spray on things but obviously keep it off the brakes but if sprayed on a ball joint it will probably wash out any grease and make the problem worse. Doe sit make the noise if bounced up and down when stationary or when going over bumps or when turning - may help decide what is causing it. Check any rubber boots over ball joints are not damaged. The drop links wear easily but can give a knock when needing replacing.

You could also check if the rear wheels are pointing in a bit at the top which can indicate the bearings are gone, plus maybe bad tyre wear at the back. Have a look in the boot also in the spare wheel well in case it is something rattling around. You may also try wd40 or some oil where the strut knuckle contacts the suspension arm. However, coastline is our C5 expert but these are simple things to eliminate.

There are a few different part numbers for the rear struts and the sides are also different. The estate ones are different to some of the hatchback ones. But for the 2.2 hdi 173 bhp hatchback the left rear is 527272 and right 527271 when looking from behind the car (other hatchback models without the hydractive suspension are right 527269 and left 527270). If you do need a new one, the labour cost at a dealer to fit is at most one hour and including the parts and lds fluid give a total cost of about £240 (parts strut £143, seal £3, R pin £1.50, lds £13) - this is the cost when I had a rear passenger side one replaced in 2013 when it was leaking and dripped lds from the gaiter - but the strut did seem to work normally. If you do the job yourself you would need a sphere removal tool, about £20 from ebay - so having a dealer do the job is not that expensive compared to diy.

Chances are there is radio interferance with the signal such as a mobile phone/mast and if you move the car or try again in 30 minutes the remote will work. We had this a lot on our previous C3 and Xsara Picasso.

Just checked for your car 2.0 petrol 55 plate and the gearbox BE4-5 has a filling/level plug at the back and after draining it should take 1.8 litres of oil (1.9 total). So should not take long to check this.

Welcome to the forum. Possibilities include a leaking rear suspension strut and a fault with the rear height sensor and a low lds fluid level/leak. If you go under the car support it on axle stands since if a height sensor is knocked/moved it can cause the suspension to drop to a low level very quickly.