paul.h

Welcome to the forum. If you have the Citroen Maintenance and Warranty guide from the car it will give you the oil spec to use. The 2006 guide that came with our C5 gives the following options for the 1.6 petrol engine: - semi synthetic oil Total Quartz 7000 10w-40, A3/B3 SL/CF - full synthetic oil Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 A3/B4 SL/CF - full synthetic oil Total Quartz energy 9000 0w-30 A3/B4. - full synthetic oil Total Quartz INEO ECS 5w-30 C2. Since the service interval is 2 years or 20k miles, you may be better using a full synthetic oil unless you intend to change the oil/filter more frequently. Check your guide in case the oil spec in 2004 was different. For our 2003 C3 we used a full synthetic Castrol Magnatec oil 5w-30 A1 following the spec in its guide - this oil being available in supermarkets and Halfords at a reasonable price. The dealer had previously used Mobil P 5w-30 but since they get it in bulk their costs would not be too high. The Total oils you can get from a Citroen dealer or through the internet. The door locks may be stuck due to lack of use or possibly frozen if it was a cold day. If not frozen, you could try spraying in the locks something like wd40 and gradually turning the key to see if it frees them. It is also possible the locks may have been changed so your keys do not match the locks. If none of this helps, them maybe the inner door cards/trim will need removing so you can access the lock barrels and possibly free them or replace them. In a few days I will move this topic to the Xsara section.

On our cars the rpo number is on the sticker with the tyre pressures and it has also been written in the Maintenance and Warranty Guide. As an example on the C3 the numbers are in order from above: - all the tyre pressures and tyre types in the top section - then the rpo number 1....CA but the letters are not used when needing to use the rpo. - then another number - then the paint colour code letters - then another number - then another number. If you do not have a similar sticker then you can get the rpo from the Citroen parts diagrams using your VIN (VIS) and looking at the vehicle characteristics in the left column. If you have not registered for these then you can do this as a free service on the service.citroen site - register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

If it is the door stay that is rusty/dirty, you can probably just give it a good clean and then regrease it. Initially something like wd40 may help to free it off. Greasing these on any car is something that needs doing occasionally to keep the rust at bay and stop them creaking.

I am pleased it is now fixed. It has taken some time so I guess you must have been in the verge of wanting to replace the car.

Yes, the exclusive model of 2008 on C5 with the hydractive suspension has an electric handbrake which works on the back brakes. So something to consider since the wires may well be in the same area as the gear lever.

This topic includes a post by nevcco with photos showing the rear washer pipe being replaced and access to remove the high level brake light. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21975-broken-rear-washer-pipe-on-c5-tourer/

Thankyou for this, the photos also help explain everything. In an earlier post a T40 bit was mentioned so this may have been a loose fit. I had read elsewhere that halogen bulbs may be too hot so I would keep an eye on the lamps to make sure nothing suffers from the heat.

Probably not worth adding to this topic, the original poster has not been back to read the replies.

Welcome to the forum. The top part of the casing (caping) is available separately from a dealer if that is the only part broken - if not you will need all of the mirror. A used one is probably the lowest cost way to replace it. There are a few different part numbers depending on the colour and if you have sill illumination. To remove the mirror, it looks as if the lower cover with the indicator is unclipped to reveal 2 bolts which are undone. However, the electrical connectors look as if they are inside the door so the door card may need to be removed. It looks though as if you could part dismantle the mirror to remove the outer shell (all the bits just unclip) whilst still on the door and just fit the bits from the replacement one.

It is always nice when it does not cost anything to fix. Probably when trying to open the window it was frozen in place and the motor put some tension on it so that once the ice melted it moved a bit. If it freezes again, push the switch to close it if it does not open to remove any tension.

Welcome to the forum.

I think this is the service box http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUALS-plus-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-2014-ALL-Models-EPC-3-DVD-/291361649387?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item43d681f2eb

'on a hose/box at the back of the engine block accessible from above there may be an engine block drain plug which may be held in place by a clip - its O-ring and clip are supposed to be renewed.' - This is based on Citroen's procedures, so you need to look at the back of the engine from above. It looks as if there is a hose manifold on the back of the engine above the differential (drive shafts come out of this) and the drain plug sticks out of it. It could be plastic and is held in place by a spring clip that needs to be pulled out. It looks quite big and is towards the timing belt end of the manifold. If you look at the Citroen parts diagrams it can be found under Mechanical/Cooling system/Water pump gasket water outlet tank. You can see the parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Use your VIN (VIS) in the top left to find your car since there are 3 1.6 hdi engines listed - a 92 bhp, a 110 bhp and a 110 bhp with an exhaust particulate filter (dpf). The plug O-ring is part no. 1338G5 and the clip part no. is 1338C3 but you should check these against your VIN.

If it is an original Citroen part then your dealer should be able to supply one. It might help to look at the Citroen parts diagrams using your car VIN (VIS). You can see these as a free service if you register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. It may take a bit of time to find it and could be in the electrical section http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Years ago capacitors were put on if there was interferance on the radio and these were bought from car accessory shops.

The Haynes manuals are usually good on things such as coolant changes but the Citroen service box procedures are better, comes as 3 dvds to put on your computer (available from such as ebay). Dealers have to be careful on what they say due to liability and not wanting to lose business and they are only allowed to use Citroen products to maintain warranties. http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=47051&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=10215

To put pictures on they have to be put on something like photobucket and then a link can be put on this site to it. Possibly the valve clearances need adjusting after the cylinder head was rebuilt 3. Valve clearancesN.B. : Adjust when cold. Inlet valves 0,20 ± 0.05 mm Exhaust valves 0,40 ± 0.05 mm

Welcome to the forum. Unless you drain the engine block you will not get the full amount out plus the heater matrix may not fully drain. There will be a bleed screw on a heater hose to undo and on a hose/box at the back of the engine block accessible from above there may be an engine block drain plug which may be held in place by a clip - its O-ring and clip are supposed to be renewed. Citroen use a long life anti freeze which they say does not need changing. However, if you do you need to fully flush all the old out by filling and draining a few times with water. When I replaced the a/f in our 2003 C3 as part of a timing belt change, I did not flush the engine block out and despite adding Citroen's own Glysantin G33 a/f (blue colour, car original was a pale yellow) a small amount of what looked like grease appeared in the expansion tank - so the 2 may not have been compatible. So since you are using Halfords a/f it is probably also important to drain as much as possible of the old out. When ready to refill with fresh a/f with the bottom hose in place and the block drain plug in place, put in all the a/f before you start adding any water - that way you know it will be the right strength if you can not get the full 11 litres in. Once air stops coming out of the heater hose vent, close it and then continue filling up. Once full, fit the tank cap, run the engine for a short while to help remove any air, squeezing hoses helps, check the a/f level and top up if needed. Then you should run the engine until the fan kicks in at about 97°C but before then check the thermostat opens and the top rad hose gets hot (about 83°C), squeeze the hoses to get any more air out but also watch the temperature gauge (if there is one) to make sure it goes up gradually - if it does not or suddenly jumps there may be air still in the cylinder head that needs removing before the engine gets too hot. Once it cools down check the level again and over the next few days since it is likely more air will come out.

Welcome to the forum.

It is underneath at the back. To check the level the official method is to drain it out and see how much you collect. Full is about 3 litres and empty at about 80k miles. The car checks the level by the number of fills of the fuel tank (each fill will dose a set amount in to the fuel tank) and calculates how much should be left and not by measuring the eolys tank level. When the tank is refilled you need a diagnostic to tell the car it has been filled or a low level message will keep coming up, but eolys will still be dosed to the fuel tank. I think eolys may be about £100 for 3 litres.

If you do go for a new timing belt, even if money is tight, make sure all the other parts (tensioner, pulleys, water pump) are replaced. A neighbour recently had a belt replaced on a Renault but not all the other bits due to the extra cost - however, the new belt failed about 4 days later and they are now in dispute with the garage over who will pay for the new engine. Edited 12/2/2015. The neigbour got the story wrong a bit wrong - the husband gave me the correct details after it had been fixed. They had the alternator drive belt replaced initially and then a few days later the timing belt snapped so the 2 may not have been related to each other. The engine was repaired by rebuilding the cylinder head.

Welcome to the forum, although it is a bit late after you have been a member for 6½ years. What other reset methods did you try and how did you discover this one ? I have added it to the Common Problems pinned post since it could help others. Now you have sent your first post, I am sure there are lots of other things you can tell us you have learnt about your C3 but if it is as reliable as our C3 then it may have only needed services.

Copied from my reply to your similar post in the C2 section so all the replies are on one place. I have deleted the C2 section topic. Welcome to the forum. If the stud is at the gearbox end then this could be an earth point. We had a 2003 C3 with the same engine and if removing the coil pack to replace spark plugs, the earth wire connected here would turn round as a nut was undone and care had to be taken to prevent the wire breaking off. I eventually changed it by adding a couple of washers or an extra nut (cannot remember which). There was only one wire connected here. If this is the same on your car, then you will need to reconnect the earth wires and it may help the running. You could also check the throttle body and throttle plate are clean and not covered in carbon build up - if fouled up, use some carburetor cleaner or a cloth damp with white spirit/turps.

Welcome to the forum. Is the engine the 90 bhp or 110 bhp 2.0 hdi ? You could do with a copy of a Haynes manual but it only covers to 2000 so I am not sure how much of it will apply to your car http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=12867 Another option is the Citroen service box from such as ebay or easydiagnostics which comes on 3 dvds to install on your computer. 1. Oil. There should be about 4½ litres of oil with 1.4 litres between min and max on the dip stick. Are you draining it using a sump plug at the lowest point of the sump since the parts diagrams suggest there are 2 ? If you tap the sump before and after draining does it sound different as though the oil has been drained ? Do you leave the filter off whilst draining to ensure air can enter the engine so a vacuum is not created which could prevent the oil draining ? With the sump plug out have you tried inserting a rod and poking around to see what you can get on the end of it - oil or a thick mess that will not drain ? If you still cannot get the oil out you may need to remove the sump since it could be full of thick old oil that will need scraping out. 2. Water temperature. How are you measuring the temperature ? The best way would be using a code reader with live data that is compatible with your car to see the coolant temp sensor reading, then see what it shows before starting the engine when cold (should be similar to the outside of about 5°C), then as the thermostat opens (83°C or what was stamped on the new thermostat) and the top radiator hose becomes warm. The engine fan should cut in at 97°C but if the temp sensor is faulty then the actual temp it starts will be when the sensor thinks it is 97°C. If the fan is cutting in before the thermostat opens then the sensor probably needs replacing. The temperature sensor is located in the side of the tank at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. If it is faulty then it will affect running and fuel economy. 3. Coolant change. There should be a drain plug on the radiator (depending on engine) and one on the back of the engine block (new seal needed, torque 25Nm) so no need to remove any hoses. Also undo the bleed screws on the cabin heater outlet hose and the tank on the end of the cylinder head and possibly on the top of the radiator. To flush it, then fill with water in the expansion tank and then undo the drain plugs again. Citroen use a funnel fastened to the expansion tank when refilling which helps push the air out of the bleed screws, obviously close these once air stops coming out of them, squeezing hoses helps push air out. Once refilled, fit the tank cap, run the engine a bit to circulate the coolant and remove any air, check the level again and top up if needed, then you should run the engine until the fan cuts in, then let it cool and check the level again. The capacity might be 10.7 litres so you will need about 5 litres of antifreeze - add this before you add the water in case all the old antifreeze or water was not drained out. 4. Cabin heater. The lack of air con may be it is low on refrigerant and needs regassing, about £50 at a dealer or other garage. I had this done on both our C5s at about 7 years old. The climate controls not working could be a flap motor or the flap spindle is faulty - if you use a dealer for regassing they can check this. The cabin fan not working is likely the speed control resistor needs replacing, a common failure on many cars. It fastens on to the fan but it is also possible the fan will also need replacing if it is not running freely - this has been reported on here and just replacing the resistor has not lasted long. Note that the cabin fan needs to run for the air con to work so this must be fixed before having the air con regassed. 5. Loss of power. A diagnostic check may be needed to find this. 6. Engine management light. I am not aware of any free software but if visiting a dealer for the other faults then you could add this to the list to check. 7. Open ended cables. Just a guess, did the car have a towbar and the last owner remove it and its wiring. You should follow the wires to see where they go. To attach pictures to a post you need to put them on another website and then post a link to them.

An internet search gave the following so the P1352 code on a diesel appears to refer to the glow plugs not working rather than an ignition coil on a petrol. 'P1352 - Ignition coil A Primary circuit Malfunction / SID 801- Pre/Post heating relay circuit - Relay & Pre-Heat plugs not controlled' So this fault code will not be the problem but in colder weather it may be a bit difficult to start. You could check the crank sensor and possibly cam sensor since these can cause the engine to stop once warmed up but then let it run again after cooling. Eventually they will prevent the car starting. I do not think the crank sensor gives a fault code but when one of the 2 cam sensors on our C3 failed a fault was given and the car went in to limp mode. You could check with a meter for a resistance across the pins on the sensors which may show if they are ok. The crank sensor is located at the top of the bellhousing and the cam sensor at the timing belt end of the cam cover. A reader that gives some engine live data may be of more use than just a code reader. This one from Gendan is £39 https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Looking in a 2006 and a 2011 Citroen maintenance/warranty handbook it gives the service interval as 20k miles or 2 years if sooner. The options it gives for the engine oil are - semi synthetic 10w-40 to PSA spec B71 2300 A3/B3 SL/CF. Total quartz 7000 - or synthetic 5w-40 to B71 2296 A3/B4 SL/CF. Total quartz 9000 - or synthetic 0w-30 to B71 2296 A3/B4 SL/CF. Total quartz energy 9000 - or synthetic anti pollution 5w-30 to B71 2290 C2. Total quartz INEO ECS. On our previous 2003 1.4 petrol C3 I used Castrol Magnatec 5w-30 A1 full synthetic oil (this spec would have been in its handbook) and is available from such as Asda and Halfords for around £25 for 4 litres.