paul.h

Radweld will not help with the leaking intercooler since the turbo air goes on the inside and the outside of it is air blowing through. It will be at the front of the engine bay and have large diameter rubber hoses going to it from the turbo and from it to the doser valve/inlet manifold. You may be able to spot the leak by oil staining/leaking out. Depending on where it is leaking, you may be able to seal it on the outside using a metal putty or weld/braze it up or go for a second hand one. If the sticking turbo is due to carbon build up on the inside, then it might need removing for cleaning but there may be something you could inject to do this with it still in place. An internet search on turbo vane cleaner comes up with all sorts, but having never done anything like this I am not able to recommend any of them, but here is an example http://www.dieselturbocleaner.co.uk/

Welcome to the forum. Your car looks good, have you had it long ?

Another possibility could be the brake pads. The rear ones on our 2007 C5 and our previous 2004 C5 clunk when first applied or if going from reverse to forward and using the brakes - particularly after they have been removed and all the dirt cleaned off so they are free to move. For the rear ones an additional shim is available that fits over the top of the pads to prevent this on the 2001 to 2008 C5.

I replaced the drop links on a C3 but apart from the noise did not notice anything else.

Welcome to the forum. I have edited the topic title to more reflect the content. I looked at the parts diagrams and depending on the engine bhp and the van RPO number there are different cap head bolts or self tap screws with a hex head (probably the ones you have and Citroen part no. 6922H3 ) . So unless going to a dealer using your VIN, I would do as John suggests and get some bolts to match your remaining one.

Welcome to the forum. The C3 is a good car and I never got stuck in ours in the snow, or even had to dig it out.

I had this when a tyre fitter took up all the adjustment only on one track rod, which is not the right way and it also leaves the number of steering wheel turns different in each direction. When done the track rods should be equal length with the number of threads left exposed the same at each track rod end. If your dealer or a garage is a similar cost to a tyre depot then it may be better to use the dealer/garage, or at least question the tyre depot on how they will make any adjustments.

Since your car is a petrol 1.4, I think it will not have a fuel filter that needs changing as often as on a diesel and I think it is not likely to be the cause of your problems. A check on the eurocarparts site (without using your car reg) lists a filter for about £5 so no big cost to replace. The ones on diesel engines have to be replaced every 2 to 4 years or 30 to 40k miles since they can block up with dirt and also sludge which can restrict performance or reduce the fuel pressure so the engine will not run.

We should also thank Gteuk who maintains the forum and keeps it going, a daily task probably barely noticed, but without this the forum would not exist.

Maybe you need wires to the rear indicators as well as the front. If your van goes in to economy mode like the cars, I would see if the alarm also works then. On the cars when in economy mode I think the interior light does not work (amongst other things) so the bsi would not switch on the light when the doors are opened until the engine has been started.

When wiring up towbars on the C5s I have found the correct wires to the indicators by following the wires back from an indicator, noting the wire colour and the wire number on it (magnifying glass needed). The car indicators work by receiving a switched +12 volt supply to the bulb from the bsi (cabin fusebox) and for the rear indicators, then a common earth wire for all the bulbs in the light unit. If you are trying to trace a wire, you should use one end of the meter connected to earth (any nearby bare metal part of the body will do, no need to go back to the battery) and then try for the +12 volt supply in the wire to the bulb. For an interior light, it might be easier to feed a new wire back from the light, or at least find the wire route up one of the pillars. Again the light will take a switched +12 volt supply from the bsi and at the light will have an earth wire to the body somewhere. I have found Citroen often use white wires for many things but the numbers on the wires are all different. The colours and numbers can also change on the same model but with different years.

Welcome to the forum. In the Citroen service procedures there is a table that lists the type of additive based on the RPO. However, it warns that the type of additive already in use and to be used again must be identified first and that the only way is by the colour of the button on the click fit union on the filler interface pipe - so this will override the table recommendation based on the RPO. So based on this if the button on your union is white, then the additive should be eolys DPX42 (based on the table this is used up to RPO 9492). If the button is green then use the Infineum F7995. If the button is blue then use eolys powerflex.

I tried an internet search but it did not come up with anything apart from that below. There have been a few cases on the C3 where water runs along the washer pump wiring and in to the fuse box - so you could look at the wiring loom and see if there is any evidence of water running along it to the ecu plug. Many electrical plugs have a rubber seal in them so you could look to see if one is missing - compare the wet plug with the other ecu plugs. You could also try a plastic bag over the ecu and taped in place. It may also help to visit a Citroen dealer since some common things they will have seen before and have a fix. If you look at the Citroen parts diagrams you may notice if there is anything missing from your car. To do this as a free service on the service.citroen site, register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club and use your car VIN (VIS) at the top left to find your car http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres I found this in a list of C2 faults on another forum. It is a translation on that forum from French so the wording may not be quite correct: Problem The failing of the ECU stopping totally at random manner. Instability Concern engine 1.1i and 1.4i (KFX/KFV) architecture all CAN Cause Water entry on connector of the ECU motor (connector 32 gray ways) Remedies To Verify the state of the contacts of the connector of the ECU board. Replace if necessary the ECU and the connection plug To keep all replies in one place I have deleted your other identical topics.

Welcome to the forum and Happy Christmas. We do not have many Relay owners as members but that does not stop us trying to help and many parts are common across the Citroen range.

Welcome to the forum. It could be the crankshaft sensor that has failed. These often start to fail when the engine is hot, stopping the engine, but once cooled down will let it run again. Eventually they will not let the engine run. A new one from a Citroen dealer will be about £25 and if the same as on the 1.4 petrol 75 bhp C3 it does not take long to replace. Other possibilities could be a cam shaft sensor or the ignition coil. I would not bother using the electrician again, you have wasted your time/money and if you had gone to a Citroen dealer or Citroen specialist with the right diagnosis equipment this would probably have been fixed first time.

Welcome to the forum. You could try a battery disconnection, wait a few minutes and then reconnection. It may not help but is worth a try. The buzzing could be a relay that is sticking on but it may not be a replaceable item, or something is switching the relay such as a faulty ignition switch. 20. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

I have read elsewhere that turbo boost errors could be indicated if there is a leak in the small bore vacuum hoses around the various sensors, so you could have a look for any splits in these at the sensors.

Welcome to the forum. I can not help with your question but do you already have the car and why do you think it may need a replacement engine ? You may need the VIN of the car from which the engine is removed for future parts and if you have its number plate reg you may be able to get some history of that vehicle if the engine supplier can not provide it. As a minimum you need to know if it is a runner, its mileage, its service history and that it is the same power output as your old engine. How much of the engine is going to be replaced ? If the engine includes the fuel injectors these may need to be programmed to your ecu but I am not sure about this. Also consider checking and if needed replace the turbo.

There are some notes here on replacing the tailgate struts http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14998-replaced-tailgate-gas-struts-on-mk-1-estate-myself/

What year/model/engine is your car ? Some things to consider but I do not know if they will help - try a battery disconnection/reconnection, look in the handbook to see which fuse(s) are for the radio/screen and see if they are ok, check the radio battery in case it needs replacing (on our C5 2007 with Navi drive there is a lithium battery on the side of the radio but it appears to be only available from the dealer). The Navidrive handbook says a long press of at least 10 seconds on the radio Dark button will re-initialise the system if it malfunctions - there may be something similar on the Myway system you could try. The following is copied from the Common Problems pinned post in the Technical section: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

If you want to repair the window there is some information here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/3106-c5-estate-rear-window-wont-open/

I had to replace a noisy anti roll bar drop link on a C3 and you noticed that knocked as the car went over small bumps at low speed. It was an advisory at the MOT but once one end was undone the play in the joints was obvious. It was easy enough to replace so you could try undoing one end to check it since without doing this it is not easy to detect the wear.

There is a switch on the base of the rear wiper body.

13.4 volts is an unusual voltage - normally about 14.3 volts with the engine running and about 12.5 volts without the engine running. What year/model/engine size and power output/diesel or petrol is your car and how many miles has it done ? Does the dash light up when the ignition switch is used and have you tried using the spare key ? Is the engine management light on ? I would ignore the eco mode for now and find out why it does not turn over, it could be the starter motor is faulty, possibly the ignition switch or may be a fuse or maxi fuse has failed. Check the wiring/connections to the starter motor, the earth connections to the body and the engine. When trying the ignition switch do you hear a click at the starter motor indicating voltage is reaching the solenoid - also check for 12 volts at the solenoid when the ignition switch is turned. You could also try 12 volts direct to the starter from the battery to see if the problem is between the battery and the ignition switch and starter but make sure the car is in neutral and the handbrake is on.

Welcome to the forum. Eco mode will go once the engine is started - have you been able to start the car ?