paul.h

There seems to be a common problem on the 2008 on C5 of steering rack oil leaks, possibly pipe seals but also the top oil seal where the column shaft enters the rack. Rusting of the shaft may be a cause. Have a look at this, copied from the Technical section Common Problems pinned post and it may pay you to have a look and grease the shaft: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - 4 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684

LED options for DRLs have been discussed here and there is going to be an article in the December 2014 Car Mechanics magazine http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20984-daytime-running-lights-bulb-replacement-and-led-option/ As for running life, I suspect they will last as long as normal headlight bulbs but since they will be on all the time, the number of days will be less and in the above topic the original poster, sillyme, had a bulb go 2 years after having the DRLs activated. So you could be looking at an average of £40 a year for bulbs plus 1 hour labour if you pay somebody - the bumper needs part removing but it appears to be possible to replace one without doing this by using a right angle torx driver and small hands (info in the above topic). I wonder if they will become part of the MOT in a few years since to fit them I think is a European Directive, possibly to help cars be seen in Scandinavia.

If you get the drls enabled, bear in mind the bulbs are expensive if they fail, from memory about £40 each.

Interesting, I had a problem on a Saab once of a whistling noise and that was a hose on the cam cover that had gone soft and collapsed and as air was sucked through it the noise was made, similar to a baloon when the neck is pulled tight as air blows out. So when you let in air to the breather system by lifting the dipstick or opening the oil filler cap, you are reducing the vacuum in there which will reduce any flow of air that is being sucked in or through the system. Have a look at all the hoses for any that are soft, have splits along them or at the ends. At tickover, the manifold vacuum will also be at its greatest so you could also have a look around the manifold as far as the throttle body/plate for a leak and maybe try something like wd40 sprayed on the joints to see if it makes a difference. When warming up the throttle plate may be open slightly to increase the revs which would reduce the manifold vacuum. You could also clean the throttle plate/body in case it is fouled with carbon.

I realise it would be a good idea if members put more info in their topic titles, but for the moderators (who are volunteers and do this out of interest in their spare time) to have to do this would create a lot of work when it is enough work trying to help when members ask for help. Occassionally the moderators will edit a title if spelt wrong to help searching or add a few words so the topic is more obvious. In your case, if you visit the forum frequently, you will see highlighted all the topics you have not read and can then choose whether to read them and try to help us with your experience. It is also worth remembering many of the parts and engines are used in all 3 versions of the C5 with the mark 1 and mark 2 being almost the same so a problem on one may also apply to another. I have moved your post into a subforum since ones outside do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

The best place to check the battery voltage is on the battery itself, this will eliminate problems due to wiring and with the plug in device. If you do not have a meter, cheap ones for about £5 to £10 are more than good enough, such as this one from Machine Mart model CDM10 for £8.39 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cdm10-economy-digital-multimeter As John has said, with the engine not running, a good battery will be about 12.5 volts and with the engine running and with a good alternator the voltage will be about 14 to 14.5 volts. You have not said if the engine turns over slowly when using the starter which would be a sign of a low battery voltage below maybe 12.3 volts, so first I would suspect the plug in device may not be correct.

If you are happy that the oil level is correct from the dipstick, then when your dealer changes the oil it may be worthwhile asking them to remove the level sensor and give it a wipe, or even fit a new one. On the dpf regeneration systems that increase the diesel amount being injected, if it does lead to high oil levels then the level must still be reduced and probably the oil changed. I vaguely remember reading about Mazda engines failing due to this. Have a part read of these http://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-drivetrain/264345-2014-mazda6-diesel-serious-problems.html http://www.caravantalk.co.uk/community/topic/90350-oh-dear/

Welcome to the forum. ebay is a good place to try for parts from breakers, as an example this car is being broken so may be able to provide the wiper motor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-ZX-1996-1-9D-automatic-WHEEL-NUT-BREAKING-CAR-FOR-PARTS-/251677245447?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a99220007 There is a wiper motor here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Citroen-ZX-Rear-Wiper-Motor-1991-gt-1998-VALEO-53201802-95656576-/251664390999?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 Your wiper motor may have seized, the brushes may have worn out, there may be a wiring fault, the fuse may have gone. Check the wiring where it goes between the hatch door and body (if it is a hatchback or estate) in case it has broken. You can also try a direct 12 volt supply to the motor to see if it will run. If the window is electric, then the wiring may have broken between the door and door pillar. You could remove the door card/trim and see if the motor is getting a 12 volt supply, if not check for any fuses, then try the wiring, then the switch and also a direct supply to the motor to see if it works.

Welcome to the forum. Which engine does your car have, petrol or diesel and engine size ? Does the engine run smoothly on tickover without stalling ? Assuming your car is petrol, you could see if the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold is blocked with oil and check if the air filter is clean. Also check if the throttle body and plate are clean inside (I think you have already done this). If you have an accelerator pedal with a cable, then the cable may need adjusting to remove any free play at the throttle body end. From the Haynes manual this is done with the throttle cam against its stop, pull the cable out of its grommet to remove any free play and then refit its clip to the outer cable in the last exposed groove in front of the grommet.

Did you try a Citroen dealer for the radial targets ? On the Citroen parts diagrams for the rear hubs they show a radial target, part no. 334909 and from citroencarparts.net, they are priced at £8.22 each, so full price from another Citroen dealer will be about £10. Are these the same part number ? Like Haynes, Citroen's procedures do not say how to replace the radial target.

I would remove the column plastic covers, held by 2 bolts under the lower cover, possibly needing a torx bit. Then see if you can tell where the noise is coming from. I would not try spraying something like wd40 in without doing this since there is a lot of expensive electrical stuff under the steering wheel.

Do you have an idea of the location of the squeak, is it inside or from outside the cabin ?

I would make sure the car is on level ground and after the engine has not been run for a few hours, then check the oil level again on the dipstick. If the level is ok and not high or low and the dipstick is the correct one, then the problem may be the oil level probe or its wiring. The level probe is at the back of the engine on the block and goes down in to the sump. If it is the level probe then there would not be an urgent need to fix it. If the level is low then you need to add some oil, there will be about 1½ litres between the min and max marks. If the level is high then check the coolant level in case the head gasket has failed and if ok then a fuel injector may be leaking. If the level is high it should be lowered to avoid possibly causing a diesel runaway (where you may not be able to stop the engine since it will run on the oil from the sump).

There are 2 Citroen Safaris for sale here. One 1990 CX for about £6k and one 1973 DS for about £15k. I think I would be getting a tarpaulin to keep the rain out if it is worth so much. http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/list/15/safari/ At £220 + vat for your window repair, you must be getting a part from Citroen and about 2 or 3 hours labour.

The Haynes manual shows the glass is held by a couple of plastic clips at the bottom so maybe these have broken. The Citroen parts diagrams do not show them as a separate part so will be part of the regulator mechanism at about £100. These people on ebay seem to do clips but I could not find one listed against the mark 1 C5, but if you need clips they may be worth a try. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Osco-Trading Apparently on the 2008 on C5s the window cables often rust and snap, so on this link there are repair kits. This company sells the complete regulator for £51, it says for 2004 to 2008 but the Citroen part no. also covers the mark 1 C5. https://www.windowregulatorman.co.uk/window-regulators/citroen/citroen-c5/citroen-c5-window-regulator-without-motor-left-front-door Eurocarparts list them for £48.

You could also check the list of fuses in the handbook to see there is one for the windows that may have blown. If not, try pulling the glass up whilst using the switch in case it has been pushed down too far.

I am pleased you managed to fix this. As you say, it sounds a fiddly job.

Please add replies to these posts to this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21921-ecu-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=80535

Please add replies to these posts to this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21921-ecu-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=80535

Please add replies to these posts to this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21921-ecu-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=80535

This is proving difficult for you to sort out, are you still getting the anti theft message ? When you did your first checks did you try replacing the crankshaft position sensor - these do not always give a fault code if they fail and initially they fail when hot, stopping the engine, but allow the car to run again once cooled down, before eventually failing completely ? There will also be a camshaft sensor but if this failed it probably will give a fault code, when one failed on our C3 it gave a code but the car also still ran although in limp mode. The following are links to your other posts about this problem so we can keep everything together. I have also locked them so nobody adds to them and put links on them to this topic so all replies will stay with this topic. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21765-ecu-replacement/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21823-alarm-ecu/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21837-wanted/ From these: A scanner was used to unlock your car, then it began cutting out when driving and then it would not start. An auto electrician diagnosed a faulty ecu and the need to replace it, the bsi, the ignition barrel and keys (so the immobiliser chip matched the replacement ecu). Some time after the auto electrician finished, the car then started giving an anti theft message. You have fitted a new car battery. The engine turns over on the starter motor. There are no sparks at the spark plugs. The petrol fuel pump works and delivers fuel if a separate 12 volt supply is provided, otherwise it does not run. The car initially would run using easy start but then it would not do this when the anti theft message started to appear. You have replaced the alarm transponder at the ignition switch but this made no difference.

Welcome to the forum. We had an Astra that needed the radio code putting in if it or the battery had been disconnected. If the wrong code was used, it had to be left on for a few hours and then you could try again. Maybe your radio is similar. This may also help http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f75/citroen-radio-code-14279/ If you do not know how to enter the code, I found this amongst some help pages which may work: To enter the number 0 the appropriate space should be "blank" (ie blank equals 0). Presumably you know that entering the code is not by pressing the 0 3 4 5 keys on your radio presets (as there isn't a 0 key), rather you press preset 1 and keep it down to change the first digit of the code (it should change from blank (0) all the way up to 9 and back to blank), then use no 2 preset radio button to do the same for the second digit of the code, no 3 preset for the third digit and no 4 preset for the fourth. Or at least that's what i think, from memory,

Possibly not this, but there is a report on a Zaffira in Car Mechanics where occassionally the revs would momentarily drop off. It turned out the wiring from the accelerator pedal had been rubbing on a hose jubilee clip, the insulation had worn off and occassionally 2 bare wires touched the clip together to give the effect of the pedal being at the top of its travel. Repairing the wires and moving the clip fixed it.

In years gone by, the battery light coming on may have been due to a low tickover speed or the alternator belt slipping. You could also check the alternator and battery connections and the alternator/engine earth point. With a colder start, the drain on the battery would be more and the alternator would need to do more work.

For the C Crosser 5 speed manual gearbox 4x2 or 4x4, the oil is Total transmission 75w80 GL4 and is 2.5 litres. The drain plug/flywheel locking pin is at one end of the gearbox (differential) and the filler/level plug at the other (front). The oil should be mixed/shaken before adding so the additives are mixed back in. A syringe is recommended for adding the oil. New plug seals should be used. Torque values for the plugs are not given. For the C Crosser 6 speed manual gearbox 4x4, the oil is Total transmission 75w80 GL4 and is 2.0 litres. The drain plug/flywheel locking pin is at one end of the gearbox (differential, below the driveshaft) and the filler/level plug at the opposite side (front). The oil should be mixed/shaken before adding so the additives are mixed back in. A syringe is recommended for adding the oil. Both plugs are 32 Nm and new seals should be used. Oil change interval is 100k km = 62k miles. Raising the front of the car a bit may help to drain the oil out. Probably best to do it on a warm day or after using the car which may warm it a bit since the oil will probably be a bit viscous and keep the new oil inside before adding so it is warm. I have moved the topic to the C Crosser section otherwise it would just be lost amongst the C5 ones. I have also deleted your other similar post so all replies are together and less work for the moderators trying to keep on top of everything.