paul.h

There is a pinned post on doing the rear brakes http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/6881-removal-of-rear-brake-calipers-c5-to-2008/ If it is sinking whilst driving, maybe one of the rear suspension struts is leaking - have a look at them for damp/dripping lds fluid from the rubber gaiters. Or possibly the height sensor on the anti roll bar is sticking - try raising and lowering the suspension a few times to see if it helps.

Just been looking in the manual for the Navidrive that came with our 2007 C5. From the overall Menu button you can select the Configuration menu. In here you can configure the voice of the navidrive with an option to choose a feminine or a masculine voice. I have not tried it yet but maybe this is how it can be done on the Myway system. Other things I have learnt is it can use post codes by entering a post code instead of the town and it can use GPS coordinates but I will have to see what type it can use - I use ordnance survey maps a lot so if it will use National Grid ones that would be good.

At lower speeds the engine will be burning less fuel so there is less heat to be removed by the radiator but if you used the car in a low gear so it ran at the same revs as at 170 kph and used the same amount of fuel, then it would probably also overheat. The heat removal rate by the radiator will depend on the coolant flow rate and air flow rate and the temperature difference between the air and the radiator - on a hot day it will be able to remove less heat. The radiator will have been sized adequately when new but if it is blocked on the outside by insects or other debris and on the inside it has rust and other dirt blocking the waterways, then its capacity for heat removal will be reduced. As well as cleaning out the radiator (or replacing with a new one), you should also check the fan is working and not damaged and the coolant is in good condition.

This post may be a wind up, apart from Germany where are you allowed to go over 160 kph (100 mph) and who would want to drive their car flat out ?

The immobiliser system includes the key, the aerial transponder at the ignition lock that detects the key, the steering wheel switch comms 2000 unit, the bsi, the engine ecu (which is electronically locked to immobilise the car), the instrument cluster. The problem could be with any of these and a diagnostic check using a Citroen Lexia is probably needed but I guess your car is not at a Citroen garage. You could try your spare key and the aerial is only a few pounds.

Welcome to the forum. What year is your car and is it a hatch or estate ? When did you last have the corrosion removed from the rear brake cailpers where they join the suspension arms ? A common problem is galvanic corrosion between the alloy calipers and steel arms which causes the calipers to push out slightly to the extent they can catch the wheels and it could be giving the grinding noise you are hearing. This also gives more wear on the inner brake pads so this needs to be checked as well as the outer pads. Another member may be able to comment on the green and orange ride height lights.

Welcome to the forum. There are a few options of manual and auto gearbox for the 1.4 petrol TU3JP 75 hp engine. Rather than searching parts diagrams on the engine number you need to use your VIN which can be seen at the lower passenger side of the windscreen or on the V5C document and on other places on the car and starts VF7.... You can see the parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and member of the Citroen Owners Club. The VIN(VIS) is used to select your exact car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

If you are not planning on selling the car again, then the indicated mileage may not be a problem. Keep the receipts for the replacement parts and your service records and old MOTs will support the history. You may also need to tell your insurance company since the car will appear to have exceeded your annual mileage and if you have a claim you could find you would not be insured. There may or not be something in any breakdown services conditions. Is your old bsi repairable rather than trying to source another, if you decide on this solution ? It may have been on the C5 section where I think the mileage is stored on the bsi and also on the instrument cluster, but if either is changed the new combination of bsi/cluster will adopt the higher mileage of the other. I do not know if this would happen with the C3 if you used another bsi so that it then also adopted 100000 miles as indicated by the cluster. Just a comment, has the timing belt been changed yet, not based on the mileage but the years - should be done at 10 years or so many miles if sooner. If not, as a minimum I would remove the belt top cover to check on its condition - the 1.4 petrol only has 2 bolts holding the top cover.

On the C5 section there is a pinned post of some members who are able to help with a diagnostic check. Perhaps there may be one near you.

I would go for the dealer check since your suspension does not seem right. My 20 mph is not based on bangs/other noises just the possibility of damaging the car. Maybe you could ask the dealer if they would support you asking a Citroen dealer to check the suspension.

I would not bother with the snap on check, you need to use a Citroen Lexia diagnostic tool. The 2.0 hdi should be 138 bhp. From a brochure, the hatchback 0 to 62 mph time for the 2.0 hdi auto is 11.3 seconds compared to 9.8 seconds for the manual version. The estate version is 11.6 and 10.0 seconds for auto and manual. Maybe you could time it to see how your car compares.

Welcome to the forum. It will be worth while you getting the Haynes manual for the C5. Also have a look at the C5 technical section and the pinned Common Problems post. Which engine is it ? The suspension on the C5 does not normally creak unless possibly the rear suspension arm bearings need replacing - check for rear tyre wear and for them leaning in at the top. If the 2.2 hdi 136 hp engine, then check at the gearbox end of the cylinder head for a broken plastic ball joint on the swirl flap actuator diaphragm - a new one is about £20. On the egr valve check the actuator hose for splits at the ends, unless it uses an electric actuator. It would pay to get a full diagnostic check for the faults including the turbo and the auto gearbox and others that may be present. My biggest worry would be the auto gearbox and would get an estimate for any repairs to that before even doing any of the other things - on the basis that if it costs more than the value of the car then the other things are wasted money and you may be better sourcing a car in good condition.

Welcome to the forum. What speeds are you trying on the humps, is it enough to almost lift the car in the air ? Does the car raise and lower ok using the switch ? We have a 2007 C5 and find it gives a smoother ride over humps than a steel sprung car but would not want to go over about 20 mph on a gentle hump and less on one with a steep approach. Afterall, the aim of the speed humps is to slow the traffic.

Welcome to the forum. The link in your signature has been removed since advertising on the site is not allowed without permission from admin.

I agree with John. Since our caravan is kept in storage I have to put everything in the car and collect the caravan on the journey so the caravan stays light . The lightest car I have used was a Xsara Picasso which has good write ups for towing, the ratio was ok but on the road it was the worst for stability with the caravan controlling the car.

Only thing from the handbook is the trailer nose weight is a bit low, recommended at 67 kg. By recommended though I am not sure if this means it is ok to go higher. As mentioned in your other topic, the handbook can be read/printed/saved from the service.citroen site (pity the dealer did not mention it) http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

The handbooks can be read/printed/saved from the service.citroen site, select documentation de bord, your language and then your car and year http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ You can also see the parts diagrams as a free service on it if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club.

Welcome to the forum.

The wiper motor rivets are only aluminium so are easy enough to drill out - when I replaced the tailgate I removed the old motor and some other bits to keep as spares.

This is copied from the handbook under music media player MUSIC MEDIA PLAYERS Connect the portable device (MP3/ WMA player…) to the auxiliary JACK socket or to the USB port, using a suitable audio cable. Press the MUSIC button then press it again or select the Music Menu function and press the dial to confi rm. Select the AUX music source and press the dial to confi rm. Play begins automatically. Select the "External device" function and press the dial to activate it. External device The display and management of the controls is via the portable device.

To get to the lock the lower plastic trim has to be removed - held by 2 bolts at the inner handles, 2 pins at the side of the lock and a lot of clips. The external plastic trim also may need removing - there are 5 bolts to undo from the inside and then a lot of clips and it looks as if the switch is clipped in to this trim. The lock is held by 2 bolts. When you try the switch can you hear the lock working ? If not it may be a wiring problem - check where it goes between the door and body and for a supply at the switch connector, or maybe a problem with the switch.

A look at the parts diagrams shows all the C3s up to the new model in 2009, have the same wiper motor and wiper arm - so possibly the one on the replacement door is from a different car or it has been modified. The motor part no. is 6405J9 and the wiper arm is 6429T8. Maybe you could take a picture of the motor and compare it with different ones on ebay or take it to a Citroen dealer and see if the parts dept recognise it. However, it may be simpler and cheaper to swap the motors over by drilling out the 3 rivets holding it in place - you will need new rivets part no. 6973C9 (3 needed) listed as blind rivets 7.5 x 21 and a rivet gun. You may find the electrical connector has been modified if the motor is from a different car so that may also need to be swapped. Whilst at the dealer you could ask the service people about the cluster fault but most likely they will say to book it in.

Welcome to the forum. You would think it is possible unless there are country differences. One way to see if the parts are the same is to check the parts diagrams using the VIN (VIS) of the 2 cars involved. This is available as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres It will also pay to keep a record of the original car VIN in case engine parts are needed and they are different for the 2 cars. If the replacement LHD car is the same age as the RHD one, then is this also rusting ? Have you looked at the cost of welding up your RHD car ?

Definite fault, the high/main beams should stay on with the dip beams and with the engine running. The front fog lights might work with just the side lights on but usually the dip beams are also needed to be on, as well as the engine running. This is an example of the comms 2000 unit but they vary depending on the options on the car. To get the right one (if yours is at fault) you would need to use the car VIN (can be seen from the outside of the windscreen at the passenger side, also on the car V5C document and possibly on a tyre pressure sticker on a door pillar - it will start VF7...) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-XSARA-WIPER-INDICATOR-STALK-LIGHT-SWITCH-COMM-2000-UNIT-STEERING-COLUMN-/181490740438?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a41b0ecd6 Note this supplier has a £55 delivery charge but £50 is returned if you give them your old unit and they will fit it for £30.

Welcome to the forum. How much higher is the back when compared to the measurements obtained following post 18 ? If up to 10 mm out then it should be adjusted using a Lexia. If more than 10 mm out then the adjuster should initially be altered by moving on the rear anti roll bar to get to within 10 mm before using the Lexia - first make a reference mark on them before any alterations. Before doing anything the car should be on a ramp or axle stands and with the battery disconnected since touching the height sensor can cause the car to drop to a very low level, only a few inches above the ground and if under the car you would be squashed - without such facilities it may be better to use a dealer. It is also possible the hard ride could be a fault with the spheres. Haynes also mentions firmness regulators on cars with hydractive 3+ suspension.