paul.h

The coloured capping section just clips on/pulls off (8 clips) and should be available from a dealer. You may have to paint it to the same colour as your car. Spray paints (primer, colour coat, laquer coat so about £20 should do it for paint) are available from car accessory shops and you will need the paint code from the door pillar sticker which also has the tyre pressures and RPO number.

If you do not have access to a cheap diagnostic check, then it may be worthwhile just changing the oil pressure switch located above the oil filter since a new one is only about £10. You may find the existing one is blocked or possibly leaking or maybe the wiring/connector is faulty. I have had cars in the past where low oil pressure has just been a switch fault. if the pressure then still comes back low, then you will need to measure the oil pressure with a guage and then decide where the fault is - could be oil pump/relief valve/bearing wear/blocked oil filter/oil too low viscosity (wrong oil used or possibly diluted with diesel due to an injector problem - check the oil level has not gone up). As for the air bag fault, have a look under the passenger seat and see if the wiring connector is loose but do this with the key out of the ignition for at least 15 minutes and possibly consider disconnecting the battery so there is no risk of the air bag going off.

To help the turbo last, frequent oil/filter changes at no more than the recommended mileages and using the recommended oil should be carried out. I have read that oil flushes may help and the oil should be drained rather than sucked out. Also before stopping the engine, it should be left ticking over for maybe half a minute for the turbo to slow down and cool before the engine is switched off and its oil supply is stopped - there is usually something about this in the handbook.

Welcome to the forum. When the engine management light is on, a fault code will be generated and stored on the car which will have been read by the dealer before being cleared - what was the code since this will give a good clue to the fault. Anti pollution fault messages just mean there is something wrong that will affect the exhaust emissions and the car probably will be put in limp mode which restricts the performance. Without the code the fault could be anything such as a cam shaft sensor, air flow meter, crankshaft sensor, an air leak, an exhaust lambda sensor inlet or outlet, catalyst failure, an injector problem, an egr valve problem, etc. You do not need a garage to read a fault code since this can be done if you have your own fault code reader, but being a 2003 diesel, you would need to check it works on your car since EOBD compliance was not required until 2004 for diesels.

Welcome to the forum. This is just a guess, but is it a 1.6 hdi since these are known for early turbo failures. The judder when setting off could be a clutch problem, maybe an oil leak on to the clutch plate, uneven wear or maybe the dual mass flywheel (dmf) is failing or maybe a problem with the clutch hydraulics. Are there any other symptoms of the dmf such as rattling noises and shaking on starting/stopping the engine ? I suspect it may not be covered by a breakdown warranty since it is probably wear and tear and not a sudden breakdown. It may also be an engine mounting that has failed. I would not be starting a 2300 mile trip until it is checked and sorted since it will only get worse and may cause more damage and expense.

Welcome to the forum. If you do not have a handbook, you can view, copy and print one from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

Welcome to the forum. The car would have a 3 year warranty from new, so depending on its registration date, it may still be covered and should be fixed without cost at a dealer. Has the carpet been wet for some time or has it just happened - just to help decide if it is rain from a few weeks ago, a recent washing of the car or maybe a recent spillage in the car kept secret from you. - If it is the windscreen and it leaks at the top rear edge then possibly it could run down the inside of a door pillar, - if from an open window or from a door inner seal, then it could run out of the bottom of the door card in to the car - the Xsara Picasso is known for this - check inside the boot since if full of water it could be a light or tailgate seal leaking - when using the air con and the car is parked, is there a pool of water under the car from the condensation on the cabin matrix - if not the drain may be blocked and the water may be going in to the car. - does the rear washer work - if not the pipe may be split and the water running in to the car.

Which engine oil does your maintenance and guarantee guide handbook say to use ? It will only give Total oils since it is a French car and Total is a French company and their oils are approved. Total oils though are not that expensive when compared to others, even from a Citroen dealer. 5 litres of the INEO ECS 5w-30 is about £34 from a dealer and about £27 from ebay, similarly 5 litres of Quartz 9000 5w-40 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/NIELSEN-CDG/Total-Oils-Lubricants-/_i.html?_fsub=2549657012 The oldest maintenance handbook I have is 9/2006 from our 2007 C5. In here it says 0w-30 oils should not be used if you have a dpf (FAP). It gives Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 A3/B4 SL/CF which is full synthetic and Total Quartz INEO ECS 5w-30 C2 which is full synthetic but also low saps (ash) which is recommended with a dpf. If your handbook is the same, you can use either of these oils but the 5w-30 will use a bit less fuel. If you want a Mobil oil they suggest: Models fitted with DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), MOBIL 1 ESP FORMULA 5W-30 but it is expensive, about £47 for 5 litres from the same ebay seller http://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalog/Mobil-1-5w-30-ESP-Fully-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-150823---5L-MOB_150823.html#SID=956

Your handbook will tell you which engine oil to use but since you have a dpf it may be Total INEO ECS 5W30 full synthetic low saps oil. This can be obtained from a Citroen dealer or on-line..

Your handbook will tell you which engine oil you need. Strange removing engine oil to do a clutch, usually the gearbox oil is lost when the drive shafts are removed. Also running so far with no engine oil would likely seize the engine - are you sure the oil is not being burnt due to a worn engine or worn turbo or a head gasket problem. Has the engine management light come on, since an anti pollution fault is likely to cause this to come on and put the engine in to limp mode which will limit the performance and revs ? An anti pollution fault could be anything such as a sensor failure and the only way to check will be a diagnostic check.

Have you tried the spare key in case it is an immobiliser problem ? The transponder which detects the key is located around the ignition switch and does not cost much if it is faulty.

Welcome to the forum. We do not have many members who regularly use the site who have a C1 so you may not get many, if any, replies to help. I have never used one but as a potential owner, I would think do I want to spend 1 hour a day in one and depending on the type of roads and speeds would it be suitable and also safe in an accident - usually the larger the car the better for comfort and safety. Depending on the age of the car being considered, small to medium size cars cost about the same to buy and running costs may not be much different. A diesel will use less fuel but may have higher maintenance costs and if you are only sat in queues for the 1 hour, if it had an exhaust particulate filter (DPF or FAP), then this may tend to block up and give problems. From my experience of the C3, C4 and C5, the C3 is good for round town use and occasional longer trips but on a motorway the wagons look big, the C4 is a good all round car and the C5 is used for towing a caravan and when large loads are being moved. Our Citroens have been reliable, lowish cost to run and do not seem to rust - Fords are known to rust so if looking at one more than a few years old, check for this.

I think this may be the link to the MM Expert undertray on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C4-Under-Engine-Bumper-Cover-Undertray-/261327382108 Having removed the old one I would suspect you may be better placed than most on how to fit it and whether the old fixings can be used with the new undertray. To help, you can see the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club and use your car VIN (VIS) at the top left to see the parts used on your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres In the parts diagrams, the undertray is shown under body work for the front of the car and is listed as underbody protection. It appears that originally fitted 90° turn buttons have been replaced with bolts and nuts done to 10 Nm and the clips they go in to have been replaced by 3 different designs. The front 3 fixings are a bolt and a caged nut which might be clipped in to the front bumper section so the nut is on the inside, the next 4 side fixings are bolts and a clip nut and the middle/rear 4 fixings are a cage bolt and nuts with the nut on the outside so the cage bolt must fasten first to the car.

This is all it says in the Citroen procedures for adjustment of the rear height sensor to get the initial height within 10mm before the final adjustment using the Lexia. Loosen by one turn the screw on the collar.Retighten the screw by hand.To decrease the height, turn the collar towards the rear of the vehicle.To increase the height, turn the collar towards the front of the vehicle.Repeat the operation until the calculated dimension H2C is obtained (± 10 mm). (There is a pinned note in the Technical section on how to measure the height, now including the rear http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14396-ride-height-measurement/)Tighten the bolt to 6 Nm.Perform the final adjustment with a Lexia or Proxia

If it is the same engine as in the C5, Haynes gives the torque setting as 25 Nm for the EW10J4 (RFN) indirect injection engine and 22 Nm for the EW10D (RLZ) direct injection engine. The EW10D needs a 14mm 12 point spark plug socket with a long extension. The ignition coil needs to be removed first. Spark plug gap 0.9 to 1.0 mm for the EW10J4 and 1.0 mm for the EW10D. When changing spark plugs I usually blow down the plug recess (using such as a straw) before slackening the plugs and after to clear any debris and use a vacuum cleaner - just to help stop any falling in to the engine. Check the plug seats in the recess are clean before fitting the new plugs. Check the contacts on the ignition coil are clean where they contact the spark plug tops.

Looking at Citroen's procedures, your car should have 2 engine fans and both are 2 speed fans. Cut in temperatures are 96°C for the first speed and 101°C for the higher speed. The air con should cut out if the temperature increases to 112°C and a high temperature warning given at 118°C. The thermostat should start to open at 88°C. Post cooling running of the fans is up to 6 minutes if at 105°C. The radiator cap is 1.4 bar which is equivalent to steam at 126°C, so the cap should not lift if everything is working until after the high temperature warning. Between the 2 fans is a triangular looking box with 3 relays inside. If the fans are not cutting in at 2 speeds then it may be possible a relay is faulty so you could check these. With the air con running a fan will run anyway so checks should be done with the air con off. I would check the fans with the car stationary and the engine running and ideally diagnostic equipment used to see what temperatures are shown by the temp sensor as the various actions happen - thermostat starts to open (check by touching the radiator top hose and it will become hot), fans start at the first speed, fans increase speed to high speed. I have done these checks on our C3 with a code reader giving live data and the temp would rise enough to start the fans on low speed but then it would cool so the high speed did not happen. You have checked the coolant level is ok but you could also check the engine oil level since this will also remove some heat. The temperature sensor (on the thermostat housing) is probably ok and reported faults with these seem to be the gauge suddenly goes to max or goes to max before the engine has warmed up.

Welcome to the forum. Which engine is it ? Does the engine fan cut in when the temperature gauge starts to go up ? Are there any external blockages of the radiator ?

Apparently a common problem on the C3 is leakage of eolys fluid. It is held in a plastic bag which deteriorates over time and then red fluid drips out on to the floor. See this topic from the Picasso forum http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/21455-red-goo-coming-out-of-my-c3/?do=findComment&comment=197148

That is a shame. What you could do is click on this link to the Picasso forum and then add it to your favourites. Then when you want to use the Picasso forum, go to your favourites links and click on it. http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/ it will then go to the forum contents page with the sign in at the top right. However, having just seen the C4 Picasso page which comes up as the Citroen Owners Homepage, there is a link on it top left 'Community Forum' which takes you to the forum contents page. This new page may be something new or in development by the site admin.

Welcome to the forum. Possibilities may be a faulty pressure sensor or a problem with the turbo wastegate or pressure regulation solenoid valve. To check will need a diagnostic check using a pressure gauge connected in with the pressure sensor to see if it is reading correctly and also using a vacuum pump with a pressure gauge to see if the wastegate actuator arm moves (should be 12mm +/- 2mm with 0.8 bar applied to the actuator). A common problem to check is if the swirl valve actuator plastic ball joint has broken - this can be found at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. A new diaphragm actuator is only about £20 but is a pain to fit, but in reality only the plastic bit needs to be swapped over.

A problem with frequent dpf regenerations has recently been reported by another member, was occuring every tens of miles and Lexia was showing the dpf was blocking. Latest findings were that the eolys fluid may have run out but we are waiting for the feedback. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21612-fap-builds-up-soot-very-fast/

Brilliant, when you test drive it I hope the original knocking noise has gone.

I am not quite sure what you mean by signing in constantly, if it is after you have left the site and then have to sign in when you visit the site again, then that is normal. I have copied my reply to your earlier post on this forum since you have been a member of the Picasso forum as billy from moy since 9/11/2010 and last visited 29/6/2014, but not of this forum until you joined as wjb on 7/6/2014. Note that the 2 forums are separate with separate membership and being a member of one does not mean you are a member of the other. The Picasso forum can be found here http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/ ---------------------------------- I could not find you on the member list for this forum as billy from moy but did find you on the Picasso owners member list. Check if you can sign in to that forum - there is a link to it on the home page.

A new throttle body may be over £200. I did a search on throttle body noise and a humming noise from the stepper motor may be normal but your cutting out problems could be a sign of a problem with it. Have you asked a Citroen dealer or specialist for advice or price to sort it, just in case it is not the throttle body ?

All it has in the Haynes manual is to ensure the door is adequately supported, then unscrew the upper and lower door pins if removing the door. Since you are only replacing the pins, it probably means the door could twist with only one pin in place, so using a second person to hold the door may help to keep the door in place whilst the pin is changed. A torque value for the pins is not given.