paul.h

Often the handbook is left in one of the drawers under a front seat so worth a check. There is some info here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21352-c5-2lt-diesel-estate-2001/ that may help but you can ask on here for things you wish to know. Also look at the C5 Technical section pinned Common Problems post for some things to look out for.

If it was the oil pump it would be all the time but obviously check the oil level. However, this appears to be a common problem on the new C5 and needs a new engine fusebox to fix it. See item 33 in the Common Problems post http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20279-common-problems-rev-2462014/

Welcome to the forum. It could be the wiper arm linkage needs its position adjusting where it is fastened on to the wiper motor or maybe there is some wear in the linkage. The Haynes manual says the motor spindle is fastened to the linkage by a nut and possibly the previous owner has tightened the nut with the wiper arms parked in the wrong position. To access it needs the scuttle at the bottom of the windscreen removing, so first mark the wiper arms on the spindles then remove the wiper arms from the spindles (puller probably needed), at the ends of the scuttle the trims need removing (prise up the black rubber cover, undo the torx bolt, prise away the top edge then pull the trim rearwards to release it but be careful not to break the peg holding it down), undo the 4 torx bolts holding the scuttle then pull it down to unhook the plastic clips from the back of the windscreen. If you look at the windscreen there may be marks on it showing where the wiper arms are supposed to be parked, a bit like a square with a fork cut out in the black area of the glass. The normal parked position should be inside the black area, a bit above the plastic scuttle. If you push the wiper switch arm after removing the ignition key, then the wipers go vertical for blade replacement, cleaning the car. As a new owner, the Haynes manual is worth getting, it does not cover the 2.2 hdi engine but the rest of it is relevant. Also before jacking the car up the suspension should be raised to the max height to avoid possible suspension problems. Do not go under the car without using axle stands since if the height sensors on the anti roll bars are knocked, the suspension can quickly drop to only a few inches above the ground. If the driver's footwell is wet, then whilst the scuttle is removed you will see where rain can drip in to the cabin air intake and then run down it and at its rear join go down the inside of the bulkhead panel and to the footwell. On our previous 2004 C5 I applied a lot of sealant at this join, drilled holes in the base of the intake to let out water, put a ridge of sealant behind the holes before the join and then fit a metal plate over the top of the intake fastened to the wiper linkage to direct any water away from the intake - problem solved. On the mark 2 C5 this intake is not fitted so another option possibly is to remove it and fit a mesh over the bulkhead opening.

All it says in the Haynes manual is to remove the centre console, slacken the adjusting nut and disengage the cable end fittings from the handbrake equaliser plate, disengage the cables from the calipers and then pull the cables from the cable guides.

You can see the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site, select language and then register as another professional and member of the Citroen Owners Club. You can also pay for extra services such as looking at a manual on a time basis but I have not done this. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres If you are keeping the car, the Haynes workshop manual is worth having and covers the work you are going to do.

'This all started when I had new springs fitted last year, one snapped so I had both replaced and since then one sides been giving me trouble' This reminds me when I had the front springs replaced under warranty on a C3 after one broke. Then one side always knocked/was noisy and it turned out to be the strut top bearing which had been damaged during the spring replacement. A few years later I also had to replace the drop links after an advisory in the MOT but before this it had been knocking.

I would ignore the seat belt message, my car does that and I think it is just a reminder. Is the temperature gauge behaving normally or is it going high very quickly ? If so it could be the sensor on the cylinder head that has failed and this may then result in the other messages. If you have a code reader, as John has said, check for any fault codes, impending codes and if it has live data check the coolant temperature to see if it is indicating a higher value than it should be - if the engine has not been used for some time it ought to be the outside temperature, perhaps 20°C.

If you are going to use the coil spring on the replacement strut, make sure it has the same colour bands on it. Citroen fit different strength springs to different models/years and the different springs are identified by the colour and number of bands painted on them. If it is different then you should fit your old one, otherwise the car will not handle the same at each side. Also check that the bearing at the top of the strut/spring is in good condition and turns smoothly, otherwise it will be noisy when turning/going over bumps and may cause the car to pull to one side. Whilst the drop link is disconnected to replace the strut, you will notice if it is worn since on a new one the joints in it will be tight but on a worn one they will be very loose. A bit of wood under a strut to test it would not tell you anything since a strut will stay in the same place that it was compressed to. It is the coil spring that causes it to return to the normal position. All a strut does is damp the bouncing of the coil spring/car but when worn/leaking the damping is not as effective so the car will bounce more.

It takes me the best part of a day to do the front brakes on our cars and similar for the rear ones, but that is on the drive and being slow and getting the tools out/back and possibly doing the job more thoroughly than is really needed. The other year our C3 needed the front brakes cleaning following a brake imbalance in the MOT and the dealer charged less than an hours labour. So I think doing the work regularly, using a hoist, not being too bothered about applying copper grease or cleaning the disc up (fitting a new one seems to be quicker once the protective grease has been cleaned off) all add up to make the job by a professional a lot quicker. So I would guess only about 1 hour labour is being charged and the mechanic has a low labour rate, but is not planning on becoming rich. If the caliper is seized this will be found whilst changing the pads so no need to worry about it not being sorted. How long is it since the brake fluid was last changed ? My main concern would be to get the brake fluid changed since a neighbour had an Astra that due to a design fault got rainwater in the master cylinder reservoir and his brakes failed at a roundabout with the pedal going to the floor due to the water boiling.

Depending on which engine you have, a quick look on the eurocarparts website gives about £45 for 2 front discs and pads and your mechanic may also get a trade discount which is being passed on to you. I would also have the brake fluid changed and this will be an extra cost, fluid is about £6 for a litre plus the labour to change it - a Citroen dealer charges for about 30 minutes.

Welcome to the forum. Some thoughts without having checked the car myself but it could be the problem is the result of a lack of maintenance. For some reason the caliper/pads on that corner of the car may have seized so the pads were held against the disc. This may have caused everything to heat up and the brake fluid in that caliper to boil so the brake would not work, since rather than compressing fluid when using the brake pedal you would be trying to compress gas/steam and need a far greater pedal travel. This would be worse if the brake fluid had not been changed regularly (every 2 years is normal) so it contained a lot of water. Now once the brake had cooled down the gas/steam would condense back to liquid so the brake pedal would be back to normal. The disc may have warped due to being overheated from the seized pads/caliper. For the repairs: - you need to change the brake fluid completely and thoroughly bleed out all the old fluid. - check if the front discs are warped by using a dial gauge (just a visual check may not tell you if they were warped) - if so then replace both sides. If they are worn then they should be replaced anyway. - chances are the front pads may have sufferred from overheating and need replacing - do both sides and clean all the old brake dust from the pad support. - the piston in the driver's side caliper may be seized and need freeing up - or possibly the caliper replacing. - check the brake hoses for any damage since an internal problem could cause a caliper piston to not free off. - check the driver's side hub bearing has not sufferred from overheating and also its outer CV joint. The quote of £70 to replace both front discs and pads is low, you could pay twice this just for the parts - unless the price was labour with parts on top.

No need to try the heavy breathing, with it on the window will feel a bit warm or breath on the window with the heater on. If it did get damaged, it is likely only the wires that had the sticker on would not warm up and you can get a paint to repair them. I have used the paint and it does work but no need to use the template in the kit, just apply the paint with the brush over the damaged section of wire http://www.halfords.com/motoring/auto-parts/auto-electrical-supplies/granville-rear-heater-repair

Welcome to the forum. Most things that put the eml on will put the car in to limp mode where the performance will be reduced. Only one I can think of that may not cause this would be an exhaust catalyst problem or the lambda sensor after it. A neighbour's Peugeot 206 did this and the code reader fault code was for a catalyst problem and the live data from the reader showed the inlet lambda sensor was switching ok but the outlet lambda sensor was also switching whereas it would have been steady if the cat had been ok. After fitting a new cat is was ok and the eml stayed off after resetting. However, I would not do anything until the fault code has been read since you could replace lots of parts until the faulty one was found. Some members on the forum are willing to help with diagnostic checks and there is a pinned post under the C5 section. If you are going to buy a code reader make sure it will work on your car since OBD compliance on petrol cars was not required until 2001. Also it is better to get one that gives live data since it helps to determine a fault, as an example from Gendan for £60 http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_GCR25.html

It is just a hope we may get some help but CitroenUK has not been back since their post, possibly they have been scouring the internet for anything to do with Watchdog to avoid bad publicity - but a forum that is mostly full of posts asking for help with problems on Citroen cars would be a good place to gain good publicity. I did not see the programme so if anyone has any details then post them here.

You could try a battery disconnection/reconnection. The following is from the C4 Technical section Common problems pinned post 11. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. Autotrader and Parkers or Citroen's used car pages are where I would look to get an idea of a selling price and then you can find a car similar to yours.

This is from the French RTA manual for the C5 1.6 and 2.0 hdi from 2008: - suspension classique; Total Fluide DA - suspension hydraulique; Liquide LDS (Liquide-Direction-Suspension) Total LDS H50126 (couleur orange 100% synthetique). In the RTA book for the 2011 C4 it also lists Total Fluide DA, type LDS.

Welcome to the forum. You could check the fuses. In the handbook it lists a separate one for the amplifier, F36 20 amp in the dashboard fuse box.

Have you tried a memory stick in the USB port ? A look in the handbook with our 2010 C3 says to only connect audio equipment and recognised files are mp3, wma, wav, ogg and playlists m3u, pls, wpl. In the dashboard fusebox the handbook gives fuse F14 15 amp for the USB box and is worth checking. This fusebox is behind the left side square cover in the glovebox and takes a bit of effort to remove by pulling.

Welcome to the forum. It could be a front anti roll bar drop link. The joints in them wear over a few years and then they give a knocking noise when going over bumps. They do not cost much and are easy to replace. There is a nut at each end and an allen or torx key may be needed to stop the joint turning whilst undoing the nuts. To check for wear a lever can be used against them or the anti roll bar or the joint at one end undone.

Welcome to the forum. Putting this VIN in to the Citroen parts diagrams comes back as - JUMPER (Relay) III VAN SHORT WHEEBASE H1 TYPE 12 2.2 HDI 100 Manual gearbox 5. (the spelling mistake is Citroens)

Welcome to the forum. There is one on ebay but £65 + £15 delivery. A new one is about £140 from a dealer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C3-2009-2013-MK2-Hatchback-Parcel-Shelf-Load-Cover-Black-/321439658656?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ad74bf2a0

This is the procedure you could try to synchronise the keys: 4. Synchronise the high frequency remote controlsPerform the following operations :1 - Switch off the ignition and take out the key2 - Wait 1 minute without pressing the buttons of any remote control3 - Place the key of the high frequency remote control to be synchronised in position "ignition+"4 - Within 10 seconds, press the locking button for 5 seconds5 - Switch off the ignition and take out the key6 - Repeat the procedure with the other keys from point N°3, otherwise move on to point N°77 - Wait 30 seconds, the remote controls are synchronisedCarry out a locking / unlocking test of the vehicle’s doors and tailgate.N.B. : If the test for locking/unlocking of doors and tailgate is not correct, recommence the synchronisation operations for all the ignition keys that have a high frequency remote control.

Looking at the parts diagrams for the mirror glass, there are a few options depending on whether the glass is clear or tinted and convex and arabie marking. Depending on further replies to this topic, maybe you could look at another new C5 to see if it has the blind spot section and then note its VIN from the windscreen and order the glass against that VIN.

This is the bit on the driver's window that may help, as well as trying to clean the window lower seal and and the seal around the side/top of the door. 18. Front window anti pinch stops it closing (comes back down a few inches). Check the bottom rubber seal on the window as these start to corrode and apply pressure on to the runner. However, thanks go to Bobster for the following fix on a passenger window 2003 2.2 hdi sx hatchback. Window fault is cured. A general search on the internet found Vauxhall and Saab owners had the same fault. The cure was to put the key in the ignition, remove the fuse to the passenger door then the fuse to the driver's door console, then replace both fuses and the problem was cured. So, I put the ignition key in and turned it to accessories, then I removed fuse 4 from the passenger glove compartment and checked the passenger window switch which was dead, removed fuse 9 and checked the driver's door switches which were also dead. I then replaced both fuses, pressed the passenger window button to 'raise' and the window moved to the top and stayed there! I tried lowering and raising the passenger window using both passenger and door switches and all worked perfectly, job done!