paul.h

The 1.4 petrol engine is known to sometimes leak oil from the driver's end of the head gasket but I would have thought by now Citroen would have sorted it. Good luck with the repairs. At least using a Citroen garage the job should be done properly and using Citroen parts. The warranty was well worth having.

Welcome to the forum. Are the SERVICE light and air bag lights still showing ? The air bag light could be a loose connector under a seat if the mechanic has moved one of the seats. If you do try the connectors it is best to make sure the ignition key is not in the car and disconnect the battery to avoid any risk of an air bag going off. Follow the battery disconnect/reconnect procedure in the Technical section Common Problems post. If it is not this then you will need a diagnostic check to determine the fault. The Service light could be anything such as a low battery voltage, front brake wear indicators - is there a warning message on the dash as well ? A look in your handbook may list possible causes. When the doors are locked on our car the button flashes red. With the engine running if you hold the dash button down does it initiate auto locking when moving which would show if the button is working ? If the doors can be opened from the outside the doors have not locked. In the handbook for our 2007 C5 it says the light flashes when the vehicle is locked and engine stopped, it illuminates if the ignition is on with the vehicle locked, it goes out when the vehicle is unlocked and the dash button does not work if the car is locked using the remote or the key.

If it is an automatic then a dealer should be able to do a diagnostic check to see what is wrong.

I would measure the existing battery to make sure a replacement will fit. Often you find a longer battery can be used, this was the case with our C3 - the smallest one had been fitted originally but there was room for ones about 50% longer, (possibly for diesel versions) it just needed a retaining clip moving to a different position on the battery tray. To post pictures I think they have to be on another site and then a link to it is included on this site. Before you do change the battery it may be worthwhile checking the voltage of the existing one before starting the car and once running, just to check there is nothing else wrong. A charged battery will be about 12.7 volts, a flat battery about 12.3 volts or less. With the engine running it should be about 14.4 volts.

I suspect it is probably engine oil and you could check the colour (and smell since all the fluids have their own smell) against the oil level dipstick. You have an oil level check on your car so if the level fell too low the car would give a warning, but if it is just a slight drip it would take years for this to happen. In our first C3 with the 1.4 75 bhp petrol engine, the engine oil never seemed to get dirty and stayed a golden brown colour. Brake fluid is a pale yellow/golden colour and will mix with water - if you have some on your fingers and rub them under a tap it will easily rinse off whereas oil usually requires hand cleaner. If the brake fluid level in the reservoir drops there will be a warning but make sure the brakes seem to work normally and the pedal does not go down lower than normal - you could also try pushing down hard on the pedal and seeing if the leak occurs - if it does you would be best not to use the car. The coolant anti freeze used by Citroen is a pale yellow colour and again mixes with water and can have a bit of a curry smell. Check the anti freeze level in the tank under the bonnet is not low. page 114 of your handbook shows the location of the tank. If the car gives a high temperature warning when using it you should stop the car and switch it off. The C3 does not have a temperature gauge so you could watch the temperature, only a blue light that goes off as the engine warms up - I checked ours and it was at about 50°C. The power steering uses an electric motor so there should not be any oil leaks from this. Another possibility is a leak from the air conditioning which also has oil in it. Our 2010 1.4 95 bhp petrol C3 had an oil leak from the back of the engine when we collected it - so much for Citroen's checks. It has a solenoid in the oil pump with a cable that comes out of the back of the engine block and the seal at the block was leaking. It needed a new solenoid to fix it although the seal is a separate part. The 75 bhp engine does not have one of these so if your engine is this one it may simply be a drain plug seal that needs replacing. If you have not been able to do anything with the radio problem mention that whilst you are there.

The Picasso forum is a sister site to this one and if you have already posted your experiences on there it may be easier to just use links to them rather than writing it all again. On the Saxo, are there signs of uneven tyre wear which could suggest a suspension or binding brake problem or has there been any work on the front suspension struts/top mounts ? I once had a car that pulled to one side and changing to a different brand/tread pattern of tyre stopped it.

I had a look in the latest handbook for the car on the service.citroen site. I am not sure if I would want an electronic handbrake, it says if the battery is not working or low charge the handbrake may not work and if it is very cold it should not be left on in case it freezes - in these cases it suggests using a wheel chock to secure the car and leaving it in gear (normal practice anyway).

Battery replacement seems easy enough. This is from Citroen's procedures for cars with the battery in the boot: Open the boot and prop it open. Switch off the ignition and remove the ignition key from the car. Wait 3 minutes before touching the battery to give the various electronics time to shutdown and save settings. Remove the side flap in the boot covering the battery. Remove the cover over the battery. Remove the bolts holding the battery base retention bar then slide the bar forwards and up to remove it. Detach the battery (should be possible to move it out). Remove the battery negative cable - this is not mentioned in the procedure. It is usual to undo the negative before positive in case the tool/spanner touches anything causing sparks. Unscrew the battery positive terminal bolt. Unclip and detach the battery positive cables assembly. Remove the battery from the car. Refitting is a reverse but note the following: It does say after reconnecting the battery that if necessary to reinitialise the various ecus without saying which but on the procedure for refitting the radio/sat nav unit it says to reconnect the battery and then to check it works. The sat nav in my 2007 C5 is on a hard disc and when reconnecting the battery I have not had to do anything. I have found on reconnecting the battery that the following has not given any problems (copied from the C5 Technical section Common Problems post): 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. Thankyou for the info, it should prove useful. I have never managed to upload a file so that seems to be normal, others link to another site with the info but I tend to just add the text as part of the post. If you need to add the 7S socket for the caravan electrics you will also need to run a cable from the battery so could follow the same routing. I have copied/pasted the wording from your link in case it is lost later but the pictures would not copy. Have you already got the caravan, if not the handbook will give the towing weights which often allow for using the car unladen (weight transfer from the car) ? But it looks as if it is max 1100 kg but up to 1370 kg if you reduce the car load by 270 kg. So you should be looking at a caravan with a MTPLM of up to 1100 kg. If you went to the higher weight you may find the car is not up to it - power and stability wise. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Fitting a tow bar to Citroen C5 1.6 Nav+ 2010 model 1. Remove the corner boot liners, , remove two fixings from inside each light housing to release light cluster, remove rear light clusters. 2. Remove 3 screws per wheel arch, then one behind each liner. 3. Remove 1 central underneath the car fixing, and one from each light housing on the outside. 4. Use a screw driver to release the clips holding the wing pieces of the bumper in place and slide backwards. Remove bumper with help to prevent damage. 5. Remove rear protection bar and fit tow bar as per instructions with kit, I used http://www.tow-trust.co.uk/uploads/instructions/TP435.pdf . Ensure bolts allow movement until all bracing pieces are fitted then tighten. 6. Replace in same manner 7. Run wire from tow bar socket up under drive side through the existing rubber grommet in the rear. 8. Attach wires as per wiring diagram, you will need a relay. 9. The wiring colours that are in my vehicle are coloured as below. Ensure you test, as many differing variations are out there. a. Left hand Side i. Indicator = Brown ii. Left side light = Green b. Right hand side i. Fog = Yellow ii. Indicator = Blue iii. Brake = Purple iv. Side light = Brown 10. The reverse colour is yellow and is best attached under the rear window below where the speakers sit. The cable is exposed before running along the arm of the boot towards the left side. 11. As a relay is required due to the CANBUS, and needs direct feed, you will need to run a cable from the battery to the relay. I used the same exit from the boot as the cable ran in. a. Up and over the fuel tank b. Across to the side skirting c. Pushed behind the fixings for the side skirting along the length of the car. d. At the front drivers wheel arch there is a hole, push behind the wheel arch and in through this hole. e. Across the back end of the engine bay using plasti-cuff fixings and around to the positive side if the battery. f. Final connection with the relay broken by a 15amp fuse holder. 12. Some specs for the vehicle if towing are: a. Kerb weight=1560kg b. Unladen weight = 1485kg c. GVW = 2045kg d. GTW = 3145kg e. Nose weight = 55kg I have moved your post in to a subforum since ones outside do not show after a few days and may be hard to find.

Welcome to the forum. A quick look on the eurocarparts site gives batteries from £96 to £220 for your car. The dearer ones labelled boot for vehicles with brake energy recovery. A few years ago I replaced one on a C3 and they were competitive on price and I used an Exide one which from memory is part of Bosch. I went for the highest amp hour one I could get to help starting in colder weather since the existing one was suffering and had a low amp hour rating. Check the labels on the existing battery as a start and then go for a higher amp hour one. I will add something on how to replace it later.

Most code readers should work and the choice depends on how much you want to spend and what things you would like to do. A dealer type Lexia will allow many of the car's functions to be checked but a low cost EOBD reader for say about £20 will just read and clear the engine codes. For a bit more you can get a reader that will also give some live data on the engine such as temperatures. A company such as Gendan do readers and I have one of these which works well on a C3 http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_GCR25.html The Lexia you would install on a lap top and these are available through ebay, with one member using easydiagnostics. Another option to consider is some members are able to help with diagnostics and there is a pinned post on one of the C5 subforums.

Welcome to the forum. Yes, sound proofing is definitely of interest and looking at Dynamat prices it is probably lower cost than replacing tyres which might not help anyway. I think our roads in the UK must not generate as much noise as yours since I have found most cars to be quiet enough. Years ago I did sound proof a car using a kit that had bitumin pads and thick felt material with an adhesive backing and it did make a difference.

The first version of the dvds I had were Citroen labelled and on disc 1 it has Please read the file 'INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION.doc' on this disc, before you start the installation. I printed this and followed them but it does take some time to install and some relevant points are noted in the posts above. If you want to install everything and not use the discs for the diagrams, the instructions say it could take about 4 hours for the technical docs and an extra 4 hours for the diagrams. A partial installation is 1 to 2 hours. PC requirements are noted as: 2.0 GHz processor, 512 Mb RAM, 16x DVD drive, 17 Gb of free space if going to install everything, Windows 2000 or later, IE 5.5 or later, Acrobat Reader 5.0 or later, Adobe SVG Viewer (this is included on the discs).

The one in John's link is for the petrol engine and a search on that site only shows the petrol one. You could also try a Citroen dealer but the parts for an exhaust are usually a lot more than pattern ones. Citroen part nos. for the 1.4 hdi 70 hp hatchback / estate are: rear box 1726 S8 / 1726 FG - if eurorep exhaust E12811G / E12846E intermediate pipe 1717 T7 for both. However, it is worth checking using your car's VIN.

Welcome to the forum. Can the existing one be welded up as a temporary measure or you could consider having a custom made one from somewhere such as this http://www.jpexhausts.co.uk/

John, which dash cam do you use and is it any good ? I have been thinking of getting one since my wife had a car crash at some traffic lights which she said was not her fault, but the other person produced a witness so it went against her.

Welcome to the forum pureity. Citroen have a customer service department but people on here who have contacted them over car problems do not seem to get anywhere, but worth a try. Citroen contact info from the Citroen UK website http://www.citroen.co.uk/home/#/contact-us/general-enquiries/contact-citroen/ and a contact form from that page http://info.citroen.co.uk/contact-us/general-enquiries/contact-form/ On the phone contact nos. for new cars info its a free 0800 no. but for other things a high cost 0844 no. It is always worth trying for free nos on the saynoto0870 site http://www.saynoto0870.com/

This will be a 173 bhp engine. The fuel filter is at the front left (looking at the engine) of the engine and you may need to remove the engine cover to see it. If you look on the eurocarparts site you will see what it looks like and costs from there about £55 - you replace the complete housing. To replace it, remove the engine cover, cover the alternator, remove the engine undertray and place a container underneath - these 2 are so catch the diesel that drains out so it is probably only necessary to put the drain hose into a container, open the bleed screw on top of the filter so the filter drains, unplug the 2 electrical connectors, clean the pipe connections and unclip the pipes (press in the coloured buttons), close the bleed screw, remove the filter shield and undo the 3 torx bolts, remove the filter. Fit the new filter, use the hand priming pump for a minute, let the filter degas for a minute (the procedures use some special pipes to help bleed air from the supply pipes but they may not be necessary), operate the priming pump again 10 times and then the engine should start within 10 to 15 seconds. Check for any leaks.

I have read things for and against replacing the dmf with a solid flywheel and clutch kit. The cost on replacement seems about the same for either looking at prices on the eurocarparts site and it is likely to only replace the clutch/dmf once unless you are going to do a very high mileage. So if I had to replace it I would stick with the dmf and keep the car standard.

Welcome to the forum. This is from a Haynes manual: - In both cases it says to disconnect the battery but if the keys are kept out of the ignition switch I suspect that is not needed. - Speedometer panel - use a small screwdriver to lever out each end of the panel surround. Undo the screws at each end of the panel and then withdraw it. The bulb holders in the back of the panel can be twisted anti clockwise to remove them and the bulbs are a push fit. It does not give the wattage of the bulbs. - the heater panel is a lot more work. Remove the radio, remove the gear lever gaiter, undo the 2 screws now revealed so the fascia panel can be released by lifting the lower edge and then releasing a clip at the top centre. Remove the 4 screws now seen holding the heater panel, lift it up to release the lower lugs, tilt it back and turn it over, disconnect the wiring plug, note the locations of the 3 control cables and use a screwdriver to release them from the support brackets and levers, remove the panel. Pull off the air recirculation knob, use a small screwdriver to prise off the control knobs (recover the small spring and detent plungers frm the rear of the knobs. Release the plastic catches and separate the 2 halves of the panel. You can now replace the relevant push fit bulbs - again it does not give the bulb wattage.

Thankyou for getting back. A quick google search indicates the throw bearing is another name for the release bearing - so your original thought for the noise was correct. £530 all in does not seem too bad. If you had not replaced the dmf chances are the new clutch would not last long. A colleague with a 1.9 diesel Polo had a clutch replaced at a VW dealer without a new dmf and about 5000 miles later had to have the new clutch and dmf replaced but this time used a clutch specialist who diagnosed the dmf at fault. I hope you do not mind but I have edited the title to help when searching.

I have also deleted the car no. plate reg from the earlier post. The engine code is RHT = DW10ATED4 with particle filter, 2.0 hdi, 16 v, 5 speed manual gearbox, max power 79 kW (106 bhp), max torque 270 Nm, registered June 2003.

There is 1 type for the estate and 4 for the hatchback which includes the estate one. To get the right one you need to use the car vin in the parts diagrams.

Welcome to the forum, you have come to the right place for good advice and help. To provide the engine code the easiest way is to provide the first part of the vehicle identification number (VIN), all the letters up to the numbers. The VIN is on the V5C document but can be easily seen from outside the car through the bottom of the windscreen at the passenger side. It will start VF7....... If you provide the numbers we can also identify the exact vehicle for parts etc. but then delete them for security. There will obviously be some expense involved and eolys fluid is not cheap, about £30 a litre and you will probably need 3 litres. If you do not add any the exhaust FAP (diesel particulate filter) will block up and add to the problems. The cable to the cc - the parts diagrams show an exhaust gas temperature sensor fastening to the catalyst/particulate filter so I am guessing this is the one that was cut but you should have had another fitted as part of the catalyst/particulate filter replacement. Its part no. may be 1618LW and about £62. I am guessing when the cc was taken it was probably just cut out at either side or the clamps undone and the particulate filter was also taken since it is bolted to the cc.

A Lexia is the diagnostic tool used by Citroen dealers. It plugs in to the cars OBD plug and lets the dealer alter settings, read and clear fault codes, see sensor live data and do many other things. Low cost versions are available that can be used on a lap top.