paul.h

Best way to check the height is by measuring the height of the wheelarch above the centre of a wheel. Is the R pin in place holding the ram piston rod to the radius arm ?

You cannot buy the rear exhaust box straps from Citroen, but there are universal ones that may fit on ebay.

Welcome to the forum. Your info on the dmf may be useful for another member chuckie who thinks his car may need one.

From above I am not quite clear on when the noise occurs - it seems it has suddenly recently started, when you change gear there is a whining noise - is this only whilst the pedal is pressed, it occurs in all gears, the noise level varies with engine speed and not roadspeed and is loudest in low gears. You can get an idea of the price of parts on the eurocarparts site, about £220 for a dmf and about £80 for a clutch kit - if these are at fault. An internet search of dmf failure signs gave this - The metallic banging noise will rise and fall in speed with engine revs, and will also sound different when the clutch pedal is depressed or released. Another sign to look for is a feeling of the clutch/DMF banging or 'jumping' as you change down through the gears (as it is failing to compensate for the increase in revs). Also see this new post from C 5 Estate who has recently replaced a dmf http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21193-c-5-estate/ and the symptoms were - When I bought the car it was a bit noisy at tick over and was slightly rough through the drive train at low revs. I have no previous experience of DMF’ however in hind sight I think these symptoms can be taken as a probable indication of impending Clutch/DMF failure and worth looking out for when trying out a potential purchase. When I have had whining related to gearbox revs it has been worn bearings in the gearbox on the input/output shafts. It has been a gradual increase over thousands of miles and not something that suddenly happened. It would sound worse when accelerating. On one car the wear on one bearing was that bad it allowed the shaft to move about 6mm and it would jump out of gear. If it was the differential then that increases with roadspeed not revs in any gear. But if you are going to take the gearbox apart you may as well replace all the bearings in it or get one from a scrap yard. You could drain the gearbox oil or try the level plug to see if it contains metal filings. If it was the clutch release bearing the noise would change as the pedal is pressed. Before commiting to a dmf and clutch also try a gearbox expert for an opinion since the clutch expert may be wanting to sell you a clutch - or at least get some sort of guarantee that they are at fault and if not what happens financially. When was the timing belt, pulleys, water pump and auxiliary belt and pulleys last changed and have you checked for any air leaks in hoses or one that may have collapsed internally ?

I do not know the year/model but the locking can be altered via the radio menu and configuration buttons. Also auto locking when moving is done by holding in the dash lock button and undone by holding it in again (probably only when the engine is running) - it sounds as if this is what is happening in your case and it is designed to stop somebody opening your boot (or other doors) possibly to pinch stuff/jump in your car. With auto locking on, the dash lock button will be flashing after the doors lock.

The pressure in the pipe can not be much since it has jubilee type clips on it. If the leak is just a pin hole in a metal section, you could just put a patch of hose over the hole and held by a jubilee clip over the hole to seal it. If the pipe is 4012C0, from the citroencarparts.net site a new one is £84. I would expect coastline taxis has a proper fix though. If you do replace part of the pipe this is the procedure for getting any air out. The hose material would need to be compatible with the lds fluid and you may get a better hose to pipe seal if you can put a flare in the pipe end (like a brake pipe). 4. Bleeding the power steering electropump assemblyTurn the steering from lock to lock, approximately ten times.Start the engine.Wait 3 minutes before turning the steering.Turn the steering from lock to lock, until there are no points of resistance.Stop the engine.Check the LDS fluid level (see the relevant operation).

These are common problems and are usually the fan speed control resistor pack fails so it only does the one speed and the other can be the motor or its fitting on the shaft of the warm air flap has failed. Replacing the motor is not too difficult but if it is the fitting it is more involved - have a look at this post http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21119-c5-2002-aircon/

Have a look in your maintenance/warranty book for the filter interval since it is not the same as for the additive. In the one with our 2011 C4 (which covers all vehicles) it confusingly gives check the particle filter from 100000 miles for 1.6 to 2.2 litre hdi and also 112500 miles for 2.0 - V6 hdi. For checking (not topping up) the additive level it gives from 50k/60k/62500 miles. I would imagine checking the filter will be the differential pressure across it to see if it is blocking up and needs cleaning or replacing. You have not given your mileage, but at a guess if you are at about 80k miles in 4 years it must be long motorway trips that probably would not block the filter. £800 is a lot also, some people on here have jet washed their filter and put it back on.

I have been caravanning for 14 years and in that time towed our first caravan MIRO 1000 kg, MTPLM 1300 kg but about 1100 kg as towed and our latest one is MIRO 1330 kg, MTPLM 1499 kg but about about 1330 kg towed (MIRO now includes gas bootles and water in the tanks which we remove/drain when towing). The cars used for the first caravan were Saab 900 2.0 petrol, Saab 9000 2.0 turbo petrol, Saab 9-5 2.3 turbo petrol, Citroens Xsara Picasso 2.0 hdi and C5 hatchback 2.2 hdi. The latest caravan was towed with the first C5 and now a C5 estate 2.2 hdi. Of these the Picasso was the worst for towing, only tried it once since it was probably too light (kerb 1300 kg) and the caravan seemed to be controlling the car all the time. The C5s with the self levelling hydractive suspension are an order of magnitude better for towing. The first one (kerb 1485 kg not inc driver) could pull the first caravan all day with no bother but when I got the second heavier caravan it was not as stable so we changed the car for the estate (kerb 1610 kg not inc driver). Before changing the car I did try to make it heavier by adding weight to it but it was a temporary solution . The estate again is very stable and will pull the heavier caravan all day. So from my experience if the car kerb weight (not inc driver) is 200 to 300 kg heavier than the caravan towed weight it has been stable. If you change from your Galaxy to the 150 bhp C4 you would go from the car kerb weight being 320 kg heavier than the caravan to a car kerb weight 50 kg less than the caravan - you would definitely notice the difference and possibly may not dare to tow it. With the 115 bhp C4 the car would be 160 kg less than the caravan (using the weights not inc the driver).

The numbers you have given look like the ones in the sales brochure and not the ones in the car handbook for vehicles from 1/6/2013 which can be seen from the service.citroen link. The towed weights I have given are stated as being on a 10 or 12% gradient. The higher values you have given are noted as possible with load transfer from the vehicle (ie only the driver in the car) but it is noted the vehicle may not be stable (it may also not go up a hill). The handbook wording uses unladen weight / kerb weight / gross vehicle weight / gross train weight / braked trailer weight on a 10 or 12% gradient / braked trailer with load transfer within the gross train weight. It has the kerb weight as including the 75 kg driver and is this amount above the unladen weight. It does not use the term mass in service and these weights you have for this do not appear. If you use the gross train weight (about 3300 / 3600 kg for the 115 / 150 bhp) and subtract the gross vehicle weight (using your max laden weight), you will see the max trailer weights with a full car as about 1200 / 1400 kg. With the information given in the handbook I have seen, I still can not recommend the car as being suitable for your caravan. There are other caravanners beside myself on this forum and I am sure they will add to this discussion.

Just had another look at the weights in the latest sales brochure on Citroen's site. Some of these seem to be wrong since they are showing a mass in service of 200 to 300 kg above the kerb weight - when the mass in service should be the kerb weight plus 75 kg for the driver. This has happened for all the engines except one. So be wary of using these values if you decide to get a C4, instead look at the V5C document and the handbook.

It may be you need the car connecting to a dealer type Lexia to find the faults since the easy suggestions are not working. I have not yet received any direct reply. I have found the easiest way to send a private message is to move the mouse over the person's name at the left of a post or anywhere it appears on the forum and then click on send message.

Welcome to the forum. The following assumes your caravan weight of 1480 kg is its MTPLM and its MIRO is a lot less. If you look in the car handbook you will find the 117 bhp kerb weight is too low, about 1390 kg including 75 kg for the driver and a towing limit of 800 kg for the manual or about 1200 kg for the airdream. The 150 bhp kerb weight is about 1500 kg inc driver and max tow 1400 kg for the manual and kerb 1550 kg and max tow 1300 kg for the auto version. The sales brochures give higher towing weights but that is at the expense of not putting any weight in the car. So the car would not be of any use to pull your caravan with either engine. For a Citroen heavy enough to pull your caravan you need to consider a C5. But if you want to stay at the often suggested 85% limit (100 x caravan/car kerb inc driver)you should be looking at a kerb weight of 1740 kg which is above a C5. If your experience of towing is good enough for up to 100% then you need a kerb weight of at least 1480 kg but the heavier the car the more stable it will be. An option is to not put any weight in the caravan so it is at its MIRO which is likely well below 1400 kg but the car should still be above the caravans MTPLM of 1480 kg. The handbooks can be seen on the service.citroen site, documentation de bord, select language then the car http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

The rear anti roll bar bolts direct to the suspension arms and does not have any drop links.The 4 bolts are torqued to 130 Nm.

This is all there is in Citroen's procedures but it must be easy to do since it is a 10 minute job. There is probably a cover that just unclips or pulls off. 8. Pollen filter Location of the pollen filter : Engine compartment On the left-hand side (UK kerbside) Under the scuttle panel surround

Since posting, I have found our C5 has an auto indexing passenger door mirror as part of the parking sensors option. Just need to keep the door mirror selection switch in the left position for the passenger door mirror. Then when reverse is selected the mirror glass automatically turns down so the kerb can be seen and if needed its position can be adjusted. When forward is selected again the mirror glass returns to its normal position

There may not be a problem since the early cars were known for it but see if there are any more replies before doing anything. You could check the rear tyres for any odd tread wear patterns to indicate a worn suspension though. Any problem ought to be picked up at an MOT so if the noise was there at the last one the car is probably ok.

I think the mark 3 2.2 hdi has the hydractive suspension on the non exclusive model, but this engine was only used until the 2.0 hdi power was increased to 160 bhp.

This is comparing a 2003 exclusive hatchback with a 2006 VTR estate from 2003 and 2005 brochures. The exclusive additional equipment over the VTR - 6 cd changer - side laminated acoustic glass - better seat cloth - slightly different alloy wheel but same tyre size - xenon headlights - front and rear parking sensors, electrochrome rear view mirror, auto folding door mirrors, indexable passenger door mirror when selecting reverse (may be fitted as an option on the VTR) - electric front seats - tyre pressure warning - ambience pack - carpet mats, footwell lighting, chrome door sills, boot net, rear sunblind - cruise control is standard on both but was not on 2003 - esp is standard on both but was not on 2003 - front foglights are on the 2005 but not the 2003 exclusive - suspension sport function on the 2005 only on the 2.2 hdi and 3.0 petrol Additional comments, having changed from a 2004 mark 1 VTR 2.2 hdi 136 bhp hatchback to a 2007 mark 2 VTX+ 2.2 hdi 173 bhp estate: - the handling on the mark 2 2004 to 2008 C5 I have found is better than the earlier model - fuel economy on an estate is not quite as good as the hatchback and the mark 2 2.0 hdi 138 bhp fuel economy is not as good as the mark 1 2.0 hdi 110 bhp. - the mark 2 C5 is a bit longer than the mark 1 but the internal space is the same - there is a 1.6 hdi 110 bhp for the mark 2 C5 but this may be a bit underpowered and the turbos seem to be prone to early failure - a new 2.2 hdi 173 bhp twin turbo was introduced about 2007 and in VTX+ version this includes a built in sat nav - the estate will not drip water in to the boot when the tailgate is opened - the estate carrying volume is even more than the hatchback but the boot is a bit narrower over the wheels - estate length mark 2 is 4839 mm, hatchback mark 1 is 4618 mm - the estate is not any louder inside despite the open rear boot cover - the cabin air intake has been changed so it does not let rain water run down in to the driver's footwell

What model year are you thinking of, 2008 to present, 2004 to 2008 or 2001 to 2004 ?

We've had 5 diesels so far - Xsara Picasso 2.0 hdi, 2 C4 1.6 hdis, mark 1 C5 2.2 hdi and mark 2 C5 2.2 hdi. When going slow I notice the diesel sound, a bit like a tractor, where a petrol engine would be quiet, but once moving they seem no worse than a petrol. If you open the bonnet and rev a diesel the noise level would worry you compared to a petrol the first time. On the few occasions I have used the C3 petrol, when stationary I have thought it had stalled having got used to the diesels. If you have an exhaust rasp, maybe it has a fault or it has been designed that way - in our family is a C3 petrol 1.4 95bhp and the exhaust on that is a bit throaty/sporty which after a while I find a bit annoying. Before cleaner engines/dpfs, soot would build up in an exhaust and quieten it down, but not now.

The filling procedure (below) seems easy enough but the additive counter needs to be reset using a Lexia, otherwise the low level warning will remain. Approx 1 hour at a dealer to do including putting in the addtive. When full the tank should have 3.1 +/- 0.2 litres (2.0 hdi) which should take 80k miles to use up. A quick search gives about £42 for 1 litre or about £100 for 3 litres. To get the right type of additive check with a dealer but the colour of a button on the pipe click fitting at the side of the tank should provide this - green - should be Infineum F7995 (C5 X7 from RPO 12125), before this Eolys 176 (or while stocks last if buying). - blue - should be Eolys powerflex. - no colour/white - should be DPX 42. It is not permissible to mix additives INFINEUM F7995 and Rhodia EOLYS POWERFLEX with each other.If the additives should be reversed, the filter becomes clogged with particles.Use these products exclusively ; any other product causes a malfunction of the filtration system.Use clean additive only as any particles risk causing the additive injector to seize. 1. Recommended tools Additive tank filling kit (this is a hose with a valve to fasten to the additive container and the pipe from the tank) 2. RefillingCAUTION : This operation is to be carried out when replacing the additive tank or after checking the additive level (this is fully emptying to see how much was in the tank).ESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations that are specific to high pressure diesel injection (HDi) engines.ESSENTIAL : For all work on the additive circuit, wear safety goggles and hydrocarbon resistant gloves.CAUTION : After switching off the ignition: wait 15 minutes before disconnecting the battery, to ensure that the initialisations of the various ECUs are memorised.CAUTION : Keep the boot open (DT17) - probably if the battery is in the boot.Disconnect the battery.Put the vehicle on a hoist (to give easy access under the car - an axle stand is probably good enough)Remove the left hand rear underbody protection.Uncouple the pipe from the side of the tank nearest the wheel.Couple the additive container to this pipe using the adaptor and pipe (with valve) from the filling kit.Screw on the filler pipe union onto the additive container.Place the additive container on a support so it is at the door handle height.Open the valve located on the filler union.Tilt the additive container to assist completion of filling and then close the valve.Disconnect the filling pipe from the tank and reconnect the tank pipe to the side of the tank. Refit the underbody protection. Reconnect the battery (try the procedure in the Common problems post).In the event of complete refilling of the additive tank, reset the diesel fuel additive ECU counter. 3. Recommendations for cleanlinessESSENTIAL : The filling kit should be recycled after the repair. Any container of "Eolys" additive that has been opened should not be kept.ESSENTIAL : The refilling kit, containers that have been opened and empty containers must in no circumstances be reused.

Welcome to the forum. You could try a battery disconnection, waiting for a few minutes and reconnection to see if this helps. I have found the following method noted in the Technical section Common Problems pinned post, does not give odd electrical problems: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

If you have another look at the Diagnostic Help post, there is a member JoshC5-138 in the West Yorkshire/Lancashire area, who possibly could be near to you.

In the parts diagrams Citroen now include extra shims to go over the top of the rear pads, clipping to the spring. These stop the rattling/clonking as the brakes are first applied. This is noted in the Common Problems pinned post in the C5 Technical section as follows: 3. Rear brake pads clunk when the brakes are applied. If the brakes are kept well serviced, they may be heard to clunk when going slowly. Citroen supply an extra shim to attach over the pads on the retaining springs (part no. 442701) and this worked on the hatchback. Shims £14, new springs £2 (in 2011).