paul.h

Welcome to the forum. I take it it is the engine coolant that is being lost and the water tank is the coolant expansion tank. If you can not find any leaks including from the water pump, an engine block core plug, into the cabin footwells from a heater matrix leak, from the front engine radiator or into the engine oil, then it may be the engine head gasket has failed and the coolant is being lost in to one of the engine cylinders - if so you may notice more steam than normal from the exhaust pipe and possibly poor running. Also check if the coolant in the tank is boiling indicating possibly the tank cap is not holding pressure or the head gasket has failed. If the coolant does run out there is a risk of the engine overheating and the cylinder head being damaged. Also when you top up the level if it has gone very low you should make sure any air is bled out. Ideally you will top up with anti freeze now we are starting to get freezing weather but the problem needs sorting asap.

Never tried this but if you could try the mp3 player in something else you may be able to see if that is the problem or its connection/wiring.

A link to their contact details http://www.frenchdiagnosticservices.com/contact

Welcome to the forum.

There seem to be problems joining the Picasso forum, you are not the first to recently mention this. There are people on this forum with experience of the Picasso as well as other Citroens and are happy to help if you need it and with your previous cars you may be able to help others.

I do not think there is anything wrong with your air conditioning system and it appears to work the same as on the cars we have had. I think the way air conditioning works is the compressor (pump) when switched on is controlled by the refrigerant pressure in the system, so the compressor clutch is heard to pull in/out as the pressure falls and rises. The air flow rates through the front condenser radiator and cabin evaporator matrix affect the refrigerant pressure. The temperature only controls the hot air flap (and auto also the air flow rate/direction into the cabin). The air con compressor will not run if the cabin fan is not on, if the outside air temperature is below about 6°C, the engine load is high so the engine temperature is high. So, if you keep the cabin fan on, the heating system set to auto, your compressor will continue to run unless switched off and there appears to be nothing wrong with your system. Many people run the air conditioning all the time but I prefer to use it every few weeks so the seals do not dry out, or when it is hot or when the windows steam up. This way the effect on fuel consumption is minimised and the need to disinfect the evaporator matrix to remove the wet dog smell due to mould build up is infrequent.

Welcome to the forum. I am sorry to hear of your problem and maybe others will comment on your chance of getting a greater contribution from Citroen. Can you provide a bit more information to help others - is your car the new C3 model - do you know exactly where the leak of water occurred since you mention the washer bottle which is low down and a leaky washer which I presume means a washer jet fastened at the bonnet. With this information others will be able to find a way to prevent this occurring and for yourself happening again. The 2002 to 2009 C3 is known for washer water leaks from the piping joints and through the bonnet hole at the washer jets. On our 2003 C3 I replaced the plastic washer piping with rubber to give better seals at the joints and used silicone sealant under the washer jets so rain water could not go through the bonnet hole

I do not know if you followed the Haynes manual when disconnecting the sensor - disconnect battery, support on axle stands, disconnect sensor wiring plug, prise the linkage rod from the sensor arm, lock the sensor arm in place using a 5mm diameter drill/rod, undo the bolt and remove the sensor. Refitting is a reversal but remove the 5mm rod before connecting the linkage rod, if a new sensor has been fitted have the ride height checked at a dealer. In the Citroen procedures it does not say to disconnect the battery, the rod is 4mm and on refitting, the sensor is positioned with the aid of a pin next to the bolt. It may be the sensor is a bit seized and needs wd40 or similar spraying on it to free it up. Do any work on the sensor with the car on axle stands since playing with it will alter the car height and you would not want to be under it otherwise.

Welcome to the forum. As well as this forum, you may also find the Picasso forum is worth a look. There is a link to it on the home page.

The following website (citroencarparts.net) can be used to find the cost of Citroen parts, plus they seem to be giving a discount of 15% if you order from them. Your local dealer may also offer discounts if you ask and if it is not in stock if you do not need a part the next day. You need the part number which can be obtained from the service.citroen site using your car vin and then enter the part number in the search box. If you have not already registered on the service.citroen site this can be done as an other professional non emergency services and member of the Citroen Owners Club http://www.citroencarparts.net/

Welcome to the forum. I do not know the age of your car, but I would suspect the fuel tank level gauge is worn and needs replacing. See if it shows empty again when the 11 litres have been used.

From a wiring diagram in the Haynes C5 manual, the switch is fed from the bsi (cabin fusebox) and goes to earth. The lock has 2 wires from the bsi and 1 wire to earth - both the bsi wires are the same colour but with different numbers - this is the way Citroen tend to do the wiring, all the same colour but identified with numbers. One of the bsi wires goes to the lock motor and the other to a switch in the lock. It may be when you cut off the wiring plug and connected everything back, the lock wires were mixed up. A supply to the lock wires from the bsi would only occur as the switch is used and then for a short time just so the lock motor works. You could try the lock by removing its connector, provide an earth to the earth pin and then touch a 12 volt positive to the motor connector pin.

Welcome to the forum. In the handbook it tells you how to open the tailgate if the outside switch does not work - from inside the car, insert a screwdriver in the small hole at the left of the lock and turn it. With the door open and the door panel removed, you need to check if there is an electrical supply to the switch and then from here to the lock. Also check if there is a continuous earth from the door back to the body. If there is a supply to the switch but it does not pass this on to the lock then the switch probably needs replacing or cleaning internally. If there is not a supply to the switch work backwards on the wiring in to the car body until you find the wiring break. If you do not have the handbook these can be seen/printed on the service.citroen website, documentation de bord, select language and then your car http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

Welcome to the forum. What year, model, engine is your car ? Are you sure it has parking sensors and do the reversing lights work ?

Thankyou for coming back to us with the solution, as you have probably guessed by the lack of help from the forum, it seems to be a problem not experienced by anyone on here. I had a look at the Citroen procedures and they call the part 'air intake case or air inlet neck' and its 4 bolts have a torque setting of 28 Nm. When I have serviced our petrol cars I usually clean the throttle body/plate since they foul up with carbon and a bit of carb cleaner soon removes it - this may work for you as a preventative measure.

The most recent maintenance book we have is dated 1/2011 and for the hdi FAP engines it recommends synthetic 5w-30 Total INEO ECS which is a low SAP oil for the FAP.

I do not think bluetack would work, the oil would prevent it sticking. For the 1.4 75hp petrol engine, the dip stick tube has the same part number but the dipstick part number changes after car RPO 09687 - presumably it will be a different length, so if buying one care needs to be taken to get the right part no. - initially 117475 then 117482.

Welcome to the forum. Any problems, advice needed or to provide for others, just post away.

The black rod has the Citroen part name of (believe or not) a bar and part number 5081Q4. It is probably to give a bit of stiffness to the suspension. You could probably just bend it back to shape to clear the exhaust and rear engine mounting. However, it may be best to get a new one from your dealer so that it has the correct dimensions for the suspension. If getting a new one, check the part number is correct against your car vin (on the V5C registration document and at the lower right of the windscreen when looking from the front of the car). The Citroen procedures also call it a spacer bar and a stabiliser bar. The bolts should be tightened to 75 Nm. I do not think it would be covered under warranty since it is possible it has been damaged through use of the car, maybe driving over a bump or kerb, unless the rattling noise was already there when you got the car.

When you let some of the lds fluid out of the depressurising bleed screws the suspension sinks. So, if you let out some of the fluid from the rear bleed screw (approx in the middle of the rear axle) the rear will drop down. Use axle stands though to stop it going down too far. First you could slacken the lds tank cap to release any pressure in there.

If your new car is anything like our 2007 C5 estate, the towbar wiring socket is at the left side of the boot behind the panel (the wiring route follows the left sill from the fusebox). It has a direct 12 volt supply from the battery via the cabin fusebox - here there is a yellow row of constantly live fuses used for the towbar and the electric seats. The towbar wiring uses a smart relay so the 12 volt supply switches off when the engine is not running (it senses the battery voltage).

Welcome to the forum. If your car is under 3 years old it will still be covered by the 3 year Citroen warranty so your Citroen dealer should fix the problem. Also, if you have had the car for less than 12 months and it was from a Citroen dealer again it would be covered by the 12 month Citroen used car warranty. Many other garages provide a 3 month warranty so it should again be covered. The rattling noise could be something simple such as a loose heat shield, anywhere along the exhaust from the engine manifold to the back of the car. If you know which area of the car the noise is coming from, have a look for something loose. If it makes the noise when stationary, get somebody to listen for the noise outside of the car, with the bonnet up, whilst you let the clutch up to the biting point. Unless the car has done a highish mileage, it is probably not something to do with the clutch or on some models of the 1.6 hdi its duel mass flywheel.

You could try a dealer for the price of a synchromesh (if your problem is crunching when changing in to 3rd with the engine running) if none are available on ebay and it will be a lot less than £600 if you repair it yourself.

Welcome to the forum. To help you can check all the parts to see if they are the same by part number, ideally using the vin of your car and the donor car. If the donor car is not known, as a minimum you need to know the model/engine of the car. You can see the Citroen parts diagrams on the service.citroen website. You will need to register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club and the parts diagrams are available to see as a free service. If you provide the engine type on here (petrol/diesel, size, power output), somebody with more knowledge may be able to help further.

Welcome to the forum. I believe the sat nav picks up its signal through the base of the aerial so if there are any problems in this area such as water leaks or the antenna is missing, then this might be a problem. How it is checked I do not know but your car will still be under its 3 year Citroen warranty, so a dealer should be able to help.