paul.h

'is coming from the outlet side of the turbo and is travelling through the intercooler system and back through the Turbo' This has me a bit confused, I thought the clean air outlet of the turbo goes straight to the intercooler and in to the engine. The exhaust side of the turbo goes straight to the exhaust system (cat/dpf/exhaust).

I think it best if Arak81 gets back to London before trying this since if the clutch is good enough to drive for now, then it may be best to test it later in case the test causes it to get worse sooner rather than later. At least this way he will not be stranded in the middle of nowhere and will be at home. I remember Johndouglas posting that he does this test with the front wheels against a kerb.

I think the 2 separate lights have their own positive supply but share the earth wire, based on a wiring diagram in the RTA C5 manual. It is also shared with the no. plate lights so these may also be a bit dull with the reversing lights on. It could be the earth wire has a few strands broken so is not able to pass enough current for 2 x 21 watt bulbs to light up normally. Check the wires in the rubber sleeve between the tailgate and the body, no need to dismantle the tailgate. You could also see if the rear wiper works ok since its wires will go through the same sleeve. As the wires break other problems can show such as the tailgate opening switch not working, the fog lights not working, the boot open message being on, the boot light not working, high level brake light not working and also the rear washer pipe can break, tailgate central locking not working.

Welcome to the forum. Are the other rear lights also dim since they should share the same earth ? If not then you may need to remove a light unit and check its connector and the bulb holder for dirt/corrosion as well as the bulbs. I do not think the lights are on the tailgate but if they are the wiring can break between the body and tailgate.

Welcome to the forum. Just had a look at the handbook on the service.citroen site and the engine fuse box picture is not clear (page 138). It gives fuse F3 10 amp as the one for the washer pump so will be a red one. It also says to tilt the fuse box to make it easier to change a fuse. It lists it as being between a 15 (blue) and a 20 (yellow) amp fuse so this may make it easier to find. Chances are the fuse may have failed if the washer piping or jets were frozen when trying to use the pump - we had a C3 that would do this so if I suspected they may be frozen, I would just try a quick dab of the washer switch and if no water came out would not bother until it warmed up to save the fuse blowing.

Welcome to the forum. For it to give this message there must be a switch somewhere under the bonnet that the bonnet or its latch pushes on to say if the bonnet is open. You will need to have a look for it and maybe its connector needs a clean or the switch plunger is not working - you could try pushing on it when you find it and see if the message goes.

Yes, sounds as if the clutch was slipping. It may still be ok for many miles so unless it starts to slip again or judders when setting off, then you can probably forget about it. Snowdonia is a nice part of the UK and the scenery is brilliant, even better if there is snow on the hills.

Welcome to the forum. It could be the throttle plate/body needs cleaning to remove any carbon build up - this is a normal thing to do when servicing the car and the air filter is removed. If not done, the air flow into the engine can be reduced when your foot is lifted off the pedal and can cause the engine to stall. It is easy enough to do, you can use a carburettor cleaner spray or a cloth damp with white spirit/turps to wipe it out. Is the rest of the servicing up to date - air filter change and spark plug change ?

Welcome to the forum. Does the rear washer work ? If the rear one works then the front jets may be blocked/frozen or the pipes to them frozen. Sometimes the outlet from the pump can block up with mould and need cleaning out. There is only one washer pump and it goes in opposite directions for the front or rear wipers. If you can not hear the pump when trying to wash the front or rear, then possibly whilst trying to use the washers when the pipes/jets were frozen, the fuse has blown - our 2003 C3 used to do this. The fuse will be listed in the handbook, if you do not have this then it can be read/saved/printed in sections http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ - you may need to select your language first and then select your car. From the handbook the front/rear washer fuse is listed as Fuse F3, 10 amp and is located in the engine fuse box next to the battery (on pages 170 and 171).

I have not seen the film but if it had been a new car it would not need an MOT for 3 or maybe 4 years.

There may be one or two height sensors on your car and the Citroen part no. may be 5273E9. As an example which may help you find it/them http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-CITROEN-C4-Picasso-5273E9-Sensor-de-altura-del-cuerpo-/161955109245/?_ul=EC If the sensors are replaced it might need a diagnostic to set the height. If you are going to touch height sensors the car should be on axle stands in case the suspension drops to a low level.

Welcome to the forum. You could have a look on such as ebay using the Citroen part number. There are a few different part numbers so if you do not have this you can get it from the parts diagrams using your VIN (VIS). Register on service.citroen as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Put your VIN top left to find your vehicle. Then if you look under Mechanical, Suspension, Air compressor you will see the part. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you may need to select your language first.

Welcome to the forum. If the gauge is still showing cold then chances are the thermostat is faulty, even though there is warm air in the heater. It should not open until about 82°C so you could feel the radiator top hose and it should not start to get warm until the engine is hot. If it opens before then it needs replacing. If it does need replacing the heater will give out hot air rather than warm once a new one is installed. To check the temperature sensor it is best to use a code reader with live data to see what temperature it is giving, should be outside temp before running the engine first thing and then be about 90°C or more once the engine has warmed up. Whilst doing this you can check the temp at which the radiator top hose starts to warm up to see if the thermostat is faulty. The temperature sensor could be on the back of the thermostat housing but there may also be one here for the air conditioning (blue connector. It stops the air con on high temp) and a 3rd one at the bottom of the radiator to switch the radiator fans - first speed at 95°C, 2nd speed at 99°C.

Welcome to the forum. Have you followed the procedures in the Haynes manual ? if you are saying the ball joint is loose in the swivel hub then either it is not the right diameter shaft or its bolt has not been tightened up enough - Haynes gives 40 Nm. Haynes also mentions a protector plate that has to be put back. Possibly there is something that is stopping the swivel hub split at the bottom being squeezed together, such as some damage caused when it was opened up so the old ball joint could be removed - if so it might need cleaning up with a file. Have a look at the other side of the car to see how it should look.

I do not know if getting a remote from another car will work just by resynchronising it to your car - to do this follow the handbook remote battery replacement procedure (may be put the key in the ignition, possibly turn it so the dash lights up and then press the door lock button until the door locks). Since a used remote will not have the right key for your lock, it might be possible to do this using your existing key in the ignition and then hold the used remote nearby - but having never tried this I do not know if it will work. However, the remote key will not have the immobiliser chip that matches your car so it will not start the engine. The chip can be seen in your link as a small black part inside the key case. If you get a new key or key/remote, Citroen will supply one with the immobiliser chip for your car and the key already cut for your locks. You should have a credit card size card with the car handbook/documents that has a code on it used when getting a replacement key and this may be part of the info you are looking for.

Did you contact a Citroen dealer last time to see if Citroen would sort it free of charge, also worth enquiring again unless you have already done this. Possibly there is a level sensor or something that is sticking so the pump does not start straight away.

If your code reader can give live data you could see what temperature the MAF is saying before starting the car. The inlet air temp (IAT or AIT) should be similar to the outside air temp, about -1°C today. It will go up a bit as the engine area warms up. However, looking again at your photo of the Lexia screen on the dpf, it gives the flow meter air temp as 18°C so maybe it is ok.

Welcome to the forum.

I think Rookie2 will be able to comment on the photos. I had a turbo fail on a petrol Saab and for a few months before, when I started the car there was a blueish cloud of smoke out of the exhaust but only for a few seconds, as it got worse it would give smoke out of the exhaust when accelerating. On the day it failed on the M6 (towing a caravan), it was a bit rattly when accelerating and then when on the exit slip road the car was surrounded in a cloud of white smoke from the exhaust, so I stopped the car and got the RAC to recover it to a garage. It needed a new turbo, lambda sensor, exhaust catalyst.

welcome to the forum. We never bothered getting a key ring torch and found that we got used to the key shape and locating the ignition switch although it is not ideal. We replaced the 2011 C4 with a 2015 C4 and the ignition switch and key are still the same design.

When was the fuel filter last replaced, should be every 40k miles according to the Warranty and Maintenance book with our C5. This also gives at 160k miles the eolys tank may be due for filling up again (every 80k miles) and you may get a message to say the level is low and the exhaust dpf should be replaced at 120k miles - so maybe you have already done this. At 10 years and at 160k miles the timing belt should be replaced if not already done.

Is your car the 2004 to 2008 or 2008 on C5 ? You can see the parts diagrams if you register on service.citroen as another professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the parts diagrams use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. The fuel pressure sensor can then be found under Mechanical, Engine, Air and Fuel supply, Inj calculator sensor. I think it is part 23 on the diagram for a 2004 to 2008 C5 and also for a 2008 on C5 2.2 hdi - with Citroen part no. 1920LJ (you should check this using your VIN). As an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-BOSCH-FUEL-PRESSURE-SENSOR-0281002919-LROVER-2-2TD4-CITROEN-PEUGEOT-/152392406387?hash=item237b4b9573 Note that Citroen's procedures say the pressure sensor is part of the fuel rail and can not be separated so a new fuel rail is needed - I am not sure about this but in the parts diagrams it looks this way for the 2.0 hdi whereas for the 2.2 hdi the sensor is a separate part. There is no mention of a diagnostic after replacing the fuel rail. Since it looks as if a new one is over £100 it would pay to confirm it is faulty by using a code reader with live data to see what the sensor is giving whilst the car is being used. Also if a fault code has been stored there will be freeze frame data also stored at the time of the fault which should be able to give you the pressure. So next time it happens do not delete the fault code until the data has been looked at.

If it is using oil and is enough to be causing smoke all the time, I would think you should notice the oil level is lower if it is 500 miles since you last checked it on the dip stick. So I would check the oil level first as well as the coolant level, then we may be able to forget about these. I do not think the type of oil and filter you have used would be causing the smoke since the oil is the same viscosity as the oil you used before (5w-30) - if it had been a lower viscosity then that would be a different matter. When we used our C4 today, for the first few miles I noticed in the rear mirror I could see smoke from the back for a few miles whilst the exhaust warmed up and then it stopped. But it was only 3°C outside and a bit foggy, so this was just water vapour and normal.

I can not add anything more than before when you first posted about this and you have checked the things that I can think of that could cause smoke from the exhaust. Have all the additives you put in the fuel tank been used up yet and fresh diesel put in ? The smoke is either water, burning oil or soot from the wrong fuel/air mixture or unburnt fuel. Water: - on first starting you will get steam showing out of the exhaust until the exhaust warms up and is normal. - if you have a cylinder head gasket leak then coolant can get in to the cylinders and come out of the exhaust as steam. In this case the coolant level will gradually fall. Burning oil which may be slightly blueish smoke. The oil level would be expected to gradually reduce if this is the reason. Possible causes can include: - too high an oil level. - wear in the engine such as the valve guides, pistons/cylinders. - worn turbo bearings. Wrong fuel/air mixture so the engine is running rich (not enough air) or unburnt fuel. Possible causes could include: - temperature sensor fault. - blocked air filter - maybe it has not been put in properly. - air leak. - egr valve problem. - MAF sensor problem. - fuel injector problem. - low cylinder pressure so the fuel is not burning. Possibly a valve not seating properly or damaged or cylinder wear.

Welcome to the forum.