paul.h

The freeze frame data shown seems to be when the displayed fault code P1351 (glow plugs) happened which I guess may have been when the car was last started. Before the first engine start of the day, you could do with deleting the fault code and then start the car again without touching the accelerator pedal, then stop it and seeing if the code and data is stored again. Also note the outside temperature. I think the load is the throttle position which might be high when the engine is at idle - shown as 765 rpm - for a cold diesel engine I do not know if 765 rpm is right but if it was a petrol one the rpm is usually raised on idle until it has warmed up a bit. ETC will be the engine coolant temp which at 17°C may or may not be right depending on when the engine was previously run if it has not fully cooled down. MAP is the manifold pressure and at 99 kpa is about right for idle speed - it will go up when the turbo starts. VSS is vehicle speed - at 0 km/h the car was not moving. MAF is the air flow rate - I do not know if 7.55 g/s is about right at idle speed. FRP will be the fuel pressure - 35750 kpa (= 357 bar) so this is probably about right.

Welcome to the forum. The C5 can suffer from something a bit similar but I do not know if it is the same problem. I suspect you will need to remove the door card/trim to have a look at the lock and its mechanism. This is from the C5 Common Problems topic: 14. Rear door will not open from the inside and outside. This has not happened to our C5s but it is a common problem. To fix: remove the door card, it is awkward with the door shut but can be done once removed, follow the rod to the door lock and remove the white plastic cover now try to look into the door and you will see the insides of the lock use a screwdriver and push the lever down on the inside of the lock and the door will open replace the lock with a different one. This link includes a picture of the lock mechanism which may help http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOOR-LOCK-MECHANISM-LATCH-CONTROL-REAR-SLIDING-PEUGEOT-PARTNER-BERLINGO-9138H2-/360601088800

I have copied your comment on the discs warping to the C5 common problems topic since it may not be an obvious cause.

Maybe the tickover speed is a bit low when the engine is cold. Possibly the engine temp sensor is not reading correct at low temps but from your Lexia photo on one of your other topics it showed about 76°C (from memory) when warming up so it may be ok. You would need a code reader with live data to check it before starting the engine.

I would class 5 miles as a short trip if the battery is already down a bit and would not be enough to charge it up.

I would not spray any water anywhere near inside the turbo in case it causes damage to it from water hitting the blades. Also the water is likely to just collect in the intercooler and need draining out. If it builds up in the intercooler it could go into the engine as a slug of water instead of as a mist and damage the engine since the water will not compress and could break a piston or bend a con rod.

Welcome to the forum. The fault could be anything that affects the exhaust emissions but since the engine light has come on there will be a fault code stored and freeze frame data of the engine sensors stored. You need a code reader to read the fault code and data and this shold tell you what is wrong. To guess what is wrong could come up with a long list and if you start replacing parts it could cost a lot before you found the actual fault. Possibilities can include the in tank fuel pump, the fuel pressure sensor, the crank shaft sensor, the cam shaft sensor, others. If you do not have a code reader and do your own maintenance/repairs, then it is cheaper to buy a code reader than pay a garage to do this. Diesel cars though did not need to be OBD compliant until 2004 so you need to check that a code reader will work on your car before buying one. One that gives live data is more useful than a lower cost one without. As an example but I am not sure if it will work on your car https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Nice to know it was just a low cost fuel filter to sort it out and a bit of cleaning out of the filter bowl - was the first filter from a Citroen dealer ? If you get time it would be nice to tell the diesel expert it was a filter and not a replacement engine needed. I wonder how many engines he swaps and then finds the problem is still there since the old filter was put back.

It is about 7 years since I did our C5 but from memory the lever did not move much and was easy to move over the little bit it did move. Possibly you are moving it too far so the flaps are being jammed. If you watch the rod from the diaphragm move as the engine is started and also revved, you will see how far the lever is supposed to move. If the rod does not move then you know that part of it also needs replacing, as well the plastic cup - or you have a large vacuum leak (which could be the diaphragm).

If it does it when you are not moving then it could be the steering wheel position adjuster lever is not fully closed or the tickover speed may be a bit low (if you slightly push on the accelerator pedal it should stop vibrating). It will not be anything to do with the wheels or suspension. You could also check the 3 engine mountings with the one at the back low down being one that might be worn.

It is most likely the ML6C but to check you can look up the car details under Characteristics on the Citroen parts diagrams on the service.citroen site. If you have not registered on this site do so as another professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the site use your car VIN (VIS) top left to find your car and then in the left hand column click on Characteristics and the details specific to your car will be shown. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you may need to select your language first. Or you could send a message with your VIN and I can look it up but it is useful to be able to look at the parts diagrams if you register.

Good to hear you are back and had a good time. A vibrating steering wheel is often due to the front wheels needing balancing, maybe you are due for new tyres or a balance weight has dropped off a wheel.

When it went in to eco mode the engine can not have been running and for it to happen immediately then maybe the doors or something else had been used for a while. If the engine had just been stopped and eco mode had come on then possibly it is due a new battery or the existing one needs a good charge - has the car been used for a lot of short trips ? To test the battery you can use a meter to check its voltage, should be about 12.5 volts before starting the engine - if much less then it needs charging or replacing. A voltage drop test would be better and can be done by a car accessory shop that sells batteries. If the battery is more than about 5 years old it may be due for replacement anyway. A low voltage is a common cause of apparent faults on cars these days, including Citroens, so I would not worry about the ecu for now until the battery is sorted.

We had a 2004 C5 2.2 hdi where the swirl diaphragm actuator plastic ball cup broke so had to replace it. This is a common problem and this is from the C5 Common Problems topic: 11. C5 2.2 hdi 136 hp only, swirl plate diaphragm actuator ball cup breaks. Vacuum leak/turbo fault codes (any engine). Located at the left end of the cylinder head. Symptoms may be loss of acceleration, engine management light, increased fuel economy. The plastic ball cup may be replaced on its own (10 mins) or the complete actuator replaced (several hours DIY), about £20 but the cup is not available separately. This topic has a few notes on how to replace the part http://www.citroen-o...ragm#entry40936 There is a diy fix here if not able or want to get the dealer part http://www.citroen-o...-to/#entry82945 I read in Car Mechanics a case where the actuator had a vacuum leak which resulted in the engine management light and limp mode and fault codes for over boost and turbo regulation fault. The slow loss of vacuum reduced it also to the turbo wastegate so turbo boost level dropped, the ecu then increased the boost control duty cycle which then deactivated the swirl control increasing the vacuum boost and tripping the EML/limp mode. These fault codes have also been reported here and it turned out to be a split in the vacuum pipe to the egr valve actuator - so any cause of a vacuum leak should be looked for before touching the turbo.

From the Citroen service box procedures for the ML6C gearbox, it says it does not have a level/top up plug and to get the level right the oil should be drained out and the correct amount put back in through the air vent hole (the air filter may need removing). The amount to put back in after draining for a diesel engine is 1.9 litres if the gearbox casing has fins or 2.6 litres if it does not have fins. After an overhaul the amounts are 2.2 and 2.9 litres. If it is the BVM6 gearbox the amounts are 2.1 litres after draining and 2.2 litres after an overhaul. Type of oil is given as Type of oil : ESSO 75W80 EZL 848 or TOTAL 75W80 H6965. It does not seem too expensive, about £8 a litre and if the car has done a lot of miles it might be good for the gearbox to change it. As an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Total-Transmission-Gear-8-75W80-Manual-Gear-Box-Oil-2L/181856223469 If you know how much oil you lost and there are no signs of any leaks, then you could try topping up with the same amount. The drain plug is 30 Nm torque when tightening or 35 Nm for the BVM6 gearbox.

If it is the vacuum pump they only seem to be held on with 2 bolts, so I would think you could easily do this yourself. To get the right part no. you can look at the Citroen parts diagrams if you register on service.citroen as another professional non emergency services and as a member fo the Citroen Owners Club. Once on the site use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your van and then the pump will be under Mechanical, Brakes and possibly Servo. You can then search on ebay using the part no. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you may need to select your language first.

This is copied from the handbook for a 2008 C8 but looks similar to the fuse you mention: Fuses under the dash board, F4 10 amp - Steering angle sensor - ESP - Photochromic interior rear view mirror - Diagnostic socket - Clutch - Air conditioning - Suspension - Particle filter When the fuse blows are you using any of the things listed such as moving the steering wheel, switching the rear view mirror on, changing gear, switching on the air con ?

I think it has been a legal requirement for new cars from possibly 2012 to have tyre pressure monitoring so when you get your next car it will have it on. It is on our latest C4 and does work, we were about to set off once and the warning message came up. A check showed one of the tyres was down a bit but not enough to have been noticed before getting in the car. The tyre had a nail in it. The valves look like normal black ones with plastic caps but the sensor is inside the wheel. New valves are available without the sensor, whether they are available outside of Citroen I do not know, so when new tyres are needed it is something to ask.

I had to replace them on our 2003 C3 when on 36k miles at 7 years old and on our 2010 C3 at 42k miles and 6 years old but these did not seem that bad once off the car. The bushes in them seem to be plastic so maybe they are not designed to last but at least they do not cost much and only take a few minutes to replace.

It sounds as if the servo is ok but the pedal going hard when trying to brake suggests a vacuum problem. The pedal mechanism looks a bit complicated in the parts diagrams with levers, a connecting rod and the need for adjustment so maybe there is something not right there. To test the vacuum pump in the Haynes manual for the Xsara Picasso it says to connect a vacuum gauge to the hose from the pump and start the engine - it should reach at least 500 mmHg after 1 minute. If it does not reach this then the pump may be faulty. There is a topic here where the vacuum pump had failed http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21810-a-little-worried-c15-van-vacuum-pump-knocking-noise-timing-belt/?hl= vacuum pump We could do with some input from other members but if there is nothing obvious I would take it to a Citroen dealer who should be familiar with the brakes. On the back axle there is a brake compensator with a spring, if there are any odd spring noises these are known to cause it.

Before replacing you could consider cleaning the existing one, there will be methods for diy cleaning on the internet which can be water jetting to remove the ash and maybe using a caustic solution to help clean the soot out.

The handbook can be seen/copied/saved in sections from the service.citroen site. You may need to select your language first and then your vehicle http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ The page I looked at should be the same as in your handbook but I do not think you can link to any particular page but this is the address for page 138 http://service.citroen.com/ddb/#/140 If you want to save a handbook at the top right you can do it as a pdf.

Welcome to the forum. When the problem happens a bit more info is needed - is the brake pedal going hard as if the vacuum servo is not working requiring excessive pressure on the pedal. - is the pedal feel normal but no matter how hard you push the van does not slow down. - is the brake pedal going all the way to the floor. - when was the brake fluid last completely changed in case there is a high water level - should be changed every 2 years, if not the water in it can boil when braking hard so the brakes do not work. - before you start the engine, if you push the brake pedal does it go down with vacuum still in the servo or is it hard straight away. - if you push the brake pedal to remove the vacuum so it goes hard and then keep your foot on the brake pedal and then start the engine does the pedal go down a bit more as vacuum builds up in the servo. - if you look under the dash at the brake pedal, when it is pushed is it working ok with no other movement/freeplay in the brackets/bulkhead. - is the top of the brake fluid reservoir clean so that any vent hole on it is not blocked. If the problem is due to a lack of vacuum it could be a servo leak, a problem with the non return valve on the vacuum hose to the servo, the vacuum pump may be faulty (look for any oil leaks and listen for any odd noises - it may be damaged where it connects to the end of the cam shaft), there might be a leak on the vacuum pipes or maybe an actuator that uses vacuum.

When the codes are read again also get the freeze frame data before they are deleted and you could also post the codes and data on here.

I would be the same as you but I have breakdown cover with relay so the car could still get home but on a trailer. Hopefully Arak will not be posting soon to say his car is stuck on Llanberis pass or another steep hill in Wales.