coastline taxis

Remove the turbo (very easy on a 1.6) with turbo on the bench youl see the 4 bolts that hold the cartridge in. remove the bolts and pull old cartridge out. clean the casing and refit new cartridge and put back on. Just make sure that CLEANLINESS is your number one aim here get a plastic tray/box and work on that clean clean clean and more clean. Fit new oil supply pipe,o rings and banjo bolts and throw the filter in the bottom banjo bolt away. once fitted put oil down the turbo where the oil feed bolts onto. Around 3 hours to do and remember keep everything clean and left in there bags till needed and finaly give it a oil change using low saps oil.

Wow thats a lot of money. try the scrappys but see if you can hear the engine running before you buy it

Another 1.6 turbo on the way out. You really dont want to be going down any second hand route,s with a 1.6 turbo as it will cost you more in the long run. To keep the cost down and if your fairly compotent with the tools then this is your answer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GARRETT-TURBOCHARGER-TURBO-CHRA-CORE-CARTRIDGE-CITROEN-PEUGEOT-1-6-HDI-110BHP-/252303545956?hash=item3abe769664:g:jn8AAOSwKtVWu42j

The problem your having is very common with the 2,2 engine on the relay,s normaly it ends up throwing the conrod through the side of the enginge. Depending on your budget and how long ur keeping the van... if your van has low mileage on it then consider just replacing the piston (is it no 3 piston). As regards replacing the whole engine then unless you use the dealers (to get a waranty on the job) then your down to either word of mouth to find a good supplier or just pure pot luck when buying it

hello and welcome to the forum. Its always good to hear good review/reports. I have never been a fan of the 1.6 engine and have openley slagged them off. But over the years and providing there kept out of a c5 ( the car wieghs to much) then im starting to come round to the fact that there not a bad engine when serviced correctly

youl need to get the car plugged in and read the airbag fault code. post the code on here as there are a few common faults that are easily sorted. Also welcome to the forum

phone any citroen auto breakers or ebay and they will sort you out. dont worry about the torque on the bolts for the engine/box just make sure u get them as tight as u can using hand tools and theyl be just fine. when doing just a straight engine swap then dont worry about the torque on the bolts

it really is just a clip on the push rod and a horseshoe clip then the lock just pulls out

trouble is the oil companys buy the rights by offering stupid money to the inventor. they then keep the idea from the public

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Button-Replacement-Flip-Key-Fob-Case-Shell-Blade-For-PEUGEOT-207-307-308-407-/301455165870?hash=item463020c9ae:g:e20AAOSwQiRUmtYZ plenty companys like this on ebay that can help you

Is it really worth going down that route when complete engine,s are less than £200 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-207-VAN-CITROEN-C3-NEMO-1-4-8V-PETROL-BARE-ENGINE-CODE-KFV-52K-MILES-/111954209541?hash=item1a10fdab05:g:1XEAAOSwnTJW~YG2

Hi in the engine fuse box with the key out. 3 big multiplugs pull out the middle one (slide the clip backover) now look at the left hand side of the multiplug 3rd or 4th wire down and check to see if its burnt out also check the corosponding pin on the fuse box

the plastic wheels that the cable runs round are siezing or siezed. replace the whole mechanism.

check the wiring under the drivers seat and carpet for corrision and water ingress

did you replace the bsi unit if you did have you coded it all in together as it sounds like the signal from the key isnt being recieved by the bsi unit

did you replace the bsi unit as there all linked

The price for the cambelt is way over the top. gates timing belt kit including new tensioner,w/pump and guides £90. shop around youl get way cheaper. the vibrating is down to 1 of 2 things (assuming its not the abs kicking in). Front wishbone rear bush. You can replace both bushes on the wishbone for around £30 Check the knuckles on the the steering rack both were it goes thru the drivers bulkhead and behing the rubber bellows. if when turning a corner you think the front end is feeling like its going to fall of then its a tracking issue but make sure garage checks the suspension/steering parts b4 tracking it up or it will never be right

yep you need the wedge tool to take them off and on. we got one of snap on for around a tenner. most cars will be going this way very soon

Ok not sure what diagnostic your using but its not giving enough data to use. you need the following on the live data cranking speed/rev cam/crankshaft synchronisation fuel pump pressure fuel rail pressure egr reading map sensor reading mass airflow reading imobiliser . engine temperature battery voltage

That code is just showing what you already know in that there is no fuel so it flags up rail pressure fault because there a problem with the fuel pressure. codes are no good for a none start you need to go into live data and check the reading,s and that will tell you which system is stopping it from starting. if your not sure take a screen shot when your cranking the engine and post it here

where is the leak from is it the top or from behind the cog

USE AXLE STANDS its on the side of the suspension pump itself where the multi plug goes into. If you dont have a multifunction display to show height setting then youl have a display on the lower right of the dashboard showing the height settings. The most common cause of what your describing is a seized ride height adjuster. there connected to the anti roll bars front and rear. prize the short link rod off and grease it all and push back on but remember to USE AXLE STANDS

have you got any pics and welcome

hi when your driving what do you have switched on as the heaters,air con.wipers,demister,s and even the stereo eat up fuel also the driving figures ar basicly a load of chit as there done on a rolling road with no wind factor or anything switched on and only 1 gallon of fuel in the tank. to get the true figures fill your tank right up so you can see the diesel in the neck of the tank then drive 100 miles in your normal driving style. Once you reach 100 miles then go and fill it back up to the neck. then do the maths

1st step is to remove the light unit itself and check for water and corrosion if all ok then plug it back in and take a earth to the unit and see if that works then get back to us