coastline taxis

welcome and please stay ur experience can help many people on here

did he give you a print out for your emmission or did he just do a visual on it and advise. if its a visual ul need to do the injector leak as it will alter your emissions to the point of mot refusal. a quick (altough not correct) costing of what youl need to put things right I.E oil leaks and turbo if needed then ur best option may be http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/citroen-xsara-picasso-1-6-diesel-hdi-2006-complete-diesel-engine-/271739860349?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f44f5357d job done

can they put there live data sheet on here. they need to be looking at the following cam/crank syncronisation fuel rail pressure engine speed air flow And a few others and one of them will point them in the right direction

Have never tried this. but after looking at both of them i dont see why not. just remember that the car will display the highest milage even if you take the new one off

the rust in the cooling system is probaly down to the wrong anifreeze. cars made after 1998 must use antifreeze that uses silcate free-organic acid technology (oat) to help reduce corrosion . as a rule only put pink or orange antifreeze in and change it every 2 to 3 years to keep the rust inhibators working

I would check with your insurance befor altering it from the manufactures spec. you might get a shock that will change your mind

What size engine has it got

have they put it on a scanner and went to live data to see whats stopping it. also any codes

check your mail. have sent you the fix

Ah the old xantia heater problem. havnt done one of these in years so bare with me as im going back 20 years. the heaters and the back demister were a common problem on the mk and mk2 xantia.s and both have different fixes. check that yours is a mk 1 please. im a 100% sure it is like but u never know. Are you able to do easy to slightly hard jobs on your car. or even just willing to have a good try at it as it is fairly straight 4ward to do. it just sound daunting when u 1st read it

try unpluging the brake light sitch and c if that stops it. ur vehicle is equiped with a system were if the car brakes hard it puts the hazzards on and when they malfunction your symptons is one of the 1st signs

go to the front of the sill and move inward 6 inches and youl see a round circlle protruding down that is the front jacking point for lifting arms. the rear isnt so bad as theres no engine and box to liift up. so using the jacking point mark on the rear of the sill is ok. basicly they havnt had a clue about citroen

ebay ?

the fuel filter is a sealed cartridge. unclip the fuel line by pushing the coulored release tabs on the fuel lines were they connect to the filter. then replace the filter and reconect. if you can try and get some diesel into the new filter b4 fitting

ha ha ha forgot about gteuk

In theory the car should enter economy mode to save enough power to start the car. a couple of quick checks that can be done are multi meter on battery voltage should be12ish volts then start engine and u should be getting 14.4 to 14.7. next put the live probe onto the main wire (always bolted on) from the alternator and do the same two checks and compare the readings and post here

check your earth leads to both bodywork and engine

just to let all the members know that both john and paul should have a big round of applause for all the work they have put into this site over the last year. Not just answering questions but behind the scenes keping the spammers down (you have no idea how many they have stopped). Without them i honestly think that this site would be gone now or overun with spammers. They check site everyday and have done a lot more than myself. well done to both of yous.

the esp fault and service light will disappear once you get the fault fixed so forget about them. your car needs to regenerate the dpf filter but cant because of the faulty sensor from the fuel cap. have you get the right filler cap on remember it needs to have reed magnets in it. any auto electrician should be able to run a new wire in using pin data in less than a hour. i would get that donne 1st b4 doing anything else

are you using any lds fluid

sometimes its a sign that the drain pipe for the air con unit is blocked and the water cant escape

inside the 2 deep recesses there are 2 torx screws (t25 i think) undo them and the bottom half of the cover will come away. lower the steering colum and the top half will just lift of. youd probally be better off just replacing the whole comm unit as stripping them down is hard a complicated

hello and welcome.to the forum. itd good to have different nationalitys on

go with pauls answer and get the tracking checked

ok then next is to take the timing covers of and check the following camshaft sprocket for signs of damage and wear. next check for signs of the timing belt stretching. using the correct timing pins time the engine up and check for slack in the belt. i know its time consuming and a pain in the rear but you have to rule these things out