Randombloke

Yes, is there an easy way to spot one? Were they only in Exclusive trim? That's what I'd like next.

I've seen quite a few in Paris, and the odd one or two in other parts of France. A very slow seller. It's a shame we did not get the 2.7 V6 turbo diesel in the earlier versions of C5 - it would have made a very good road burner.

Trafficmaster might be a clue there. It only pipes up on switch on/start up if the battery voltage drops below a certain level, so if you are having bizarre faults on a C5, make sure the battery is 100%. The level for Traffic master to rabbit for no reason is quite low, IIRC under 10V. Some of the sensors won't give correct readings with a low battery. If you can get a the battery load tested, I would. Either that or try and borrow a brand new, fully charged battery and see if the same fault exists.

Sorry for asking but why would you want them? Simply always fill up with quality screen wash and never with water, and never dilute said screen wash. Then it never freezes......

It does not look difficult, but it seems best to get a Haynes manual. It says that the thermostat is integral with the coolant outlet housing at the left hand end of the cylinder head. It seems like the plastic engine cover, battery and battery tray will need to be removed, and the coolant will have to be drained. The outlet will need to be unbolted and then you have the thermostat. Sounds to me like it's sticking open.

HDi engines only use the glow plugs when it's very cold. (-5 degrees C, check other threads for this) Does the light for them stay on when you turn the ignition key? It's unlikely that all 4 plugs have croaked. Look at pre heat relay or wires first. Also, try giving it two or three turns of the key to preheat it more before engaging the starter motor. Then see if it starts more easily. Could be low fuel pressure from the pump in the tank. Coastline, I think you've mentioned this fault before?

Crank position sensor - I've suffered this on another car and a motorcycle Throttle pot track or connectors worn - replace? Does cruise control fix problem as this bypasses throttle pot? Fuses and connections under ECU behind battery - suggested in another thread Does it only happen when hot? That might point to it being an inductance type sensor going open circuit when it gets hot. The crank position sensor has given exactly this same fault on another thread and it was fixed by replacement. Should you opt to replace it, do not let them throw away the old one. Borrow a resistance meter, connect it across the old sensor then heat it with either a hair dryer or a heat shrink hot air gun. At higher temperatures, the coil that forms the sensor goes either open circuit or very high resistance, and this is what causes the fault. The fact that the car runs again after a cooling period makes me confident this is a good line to pursue. This will then prove the fault has been fixed and should eliminate having to wait for the car to break down again. Coastline, what's your take on this?

Please read Posting Images, *****Hopefully nothing to offend*****

Measure the battery voltage when the radio goes off. Is the battery getting tired? Measure the battery voltage when the engine is running, and also when it is off but the radio is off. The car goes into eco mode to protect the battery from becoming drained to the point where the car will not start. Either the radio is draining too much current, the battery is tired or has already been suggested, the eco setting is not correct. Personally I would simply buy one of the £15 LED voltmeters that plug into the cigarette lighter or the auxiliary outlet that stays on after the car is turned off, and monitor battery voltage. Post results here.

I would endorse Coastline's advice. When the tank is over 1/4 the distance forecast is usually reliable. I do go slightly under the 1/4 of a tank BUT the distance left on fuel is notoriously unreliable, usually on my C5 it leaves me in the lurch by going completely blank when there is about 30 miles left on the forecast. I have had a nervous time when running this low so I no longer do it. 1/4 tank = fill up. Also with the £59 limit at most pumps using cards, if you go much lower you can't fill your tank. Never put less than 10 litres into the tank as the fuel distance forecast will ignore it, as will the Eolys fluid adder thingy. Anti Pollution fault means there is either a problem in the Particulate Filter System (known to Peugeot Citroen as FAP or DPF) or in the various sensors or controllers (Swirl Control, EGR, etc.) that look after engine emissions. There is a battery disconnection procedure posted on this forum by either kfk or iannez, they are Citroen techs so please find and use use it. It may be that kfk has pinned it at the top of one of these forums, if not please can we consider doing so?

Yo Steve, Please click on Posting pictures

Be worth finding out which pipe as this could lead to anti pollution faults... anything to do with EGR? Eolys is 50k, 75k or 120k from memory. Someone who knows will correct me. Earliest cars are 50k. Depends on when yours was made, you can find out from the number posted in the drivers door pillar. Even if yours is a 50k, I would not expect a problem for a few miles yet.... my C5 is 75k and it's a mid 2002, I think. Could be swing arm bearings.......

The particulate filters are recycled when returned. The main issue is that they convert particulates (small to large pieces of soot) into carbon dioxide which is not likely to irritate lungs or cause respiratory problems. Lumps of carbon to CO2 - CO2 can be processed by plants and turned into oxygen. Plants can't do the same with soot. I have a 2.2 HDi C5 with such a filter and a 406 with the last generation XUD11(2.1 12 valve turbo diesel engine) which has no filter. When I'm driving at night being tailgated then floor the throttle to get away, with the 406/XUD engine I seem a cloud of soot in the following headlights. When I do the same in the C5, nothing. When the 406 goes to MOT, soot/smoke is between 1.2 and 1.5. When the C5 goes to MOT, they cannot measure the soot/smoke. The reading is too low. When I ride my motorcycle through the Blackwall Tunnel I emerge from the far end gagging from diesel soot and the smell of unburned petrol. They are expensive and not sorted 100% but the value is there to see.

Some people seem to think that it affects what the climate control tries to do with regard to controlling the inside temp of the car when set to "Auto".

The best thing is to use the Search function. Some results from same: Air Con Hot And Cold At Same Time Climate Control Problem, Half of climate control not working

If you have access to a pit then you could inspect from underneath and see if moving the arm that connects the height sensor to the anti roll bar does anything. You'll probably need to disconnect it. Don't crawl under the car and move the arm as if does something you could end up being trapped. It may be that the rear swing arm bearings are on the way out and this has had some effect on the self levelling of the car, if the back suspension is creaking. Anti pollution faults - was the Eolys fluid changed and the filter replaced at the right service interval? If not, there might be the answer. If yes, then maybe the anti pollution fault has come from a torn diaphragm or broken link in the swirl control valve. Not too expensive to fix. 97k is not a lot for a 2.2HDi. I would go with myglaren's advice to get all the codes read. Don't be fobbed off, get the actual codes themselves rather than just the "The code says we have to replace these parts." bullshit you normally get. Get the codes, Google the list of PSA codes and also post them here.

Your link definitely shows the MAF. I was very careful not to damage mine but cleaned it with some electronic solvent type cleaner. It made no difference so I changed it out - car went better. Firstly check that there is no water in the connectors. Check that there is nothing stuck on the MAF element but only look - do not touch it or you can break it. The MAF is a form of hot wire type sensor, so simply examine it to see if there is anything stuck to it that shouldn't be, but I would use compressed air or spray to clean it, not tissue in your hands, then having done all that take it out for a run and see if the problem has gone.

I only ever get the Trafficmaster talk at start up when the car has been standing for a long time and the battery is low. Having a low battery on a top end C5 is a big problem in itself, as far as I can tell from my own experience. If the battery is poor I'm of the opinion that the spikes placed on the power rail by the suspension pump can corrupt sensor input to various ECUs. I would eliminate this as spurious faults have been traced to low batteries. Don't want to sound unhelpful but do you know which version of Sat Nav it is? If it is the one with the separate CD drive in the little drawer above the accelerator pedal then I'm half sure it's an RT2, I bought an update CD for mine for €22-ish from Citroen Auch in the South of France, they posted it. If the Sat Nav uses the same CD drive as the single disc CD player then I am GUESSING that it's an RT3 unit. I know nothing about these. The RT2 software is easy to upgrade, you simply place the CD in the drive and it will offer to upgrade it for you if the CD is newer than the stuff installed on the car. It must be done with the engine running as you cannot afford for the car to go into Eco mode when it's halfway through this. After 10 minutes of CD spinning noise, the centre console says it's done and invites you to eject the CD at which point the Sat Nav and trip computer reboots.

It's time to consider a diagnostic check. It may be that an injector is misbehaving intermittently, or something similar. If you back off the accelerator when the problem occurs does the vibration go away? I'm assuming yes. Have you checked the fuel system for air leaks?

I would have a quick look at the MAF sensor - takes all of 60 seconds to take it off the car. I'd also check to see that there isn't any water in the joint where this plugs into the vehicle loom. Is there a Service Light? Or any diagnostic warning?

Trafficmaster has 3 modes. Manual, automatic, and motorway only. I always use automatic as there is no point paying for something then ignoring it. Anyway, in manual mode the Trafficmaster will only talk if you press the button once. Otherwise it stays silent and the only indication is the red or green light on the dashboard. This seems to be what you want. To change modes you need to press the button twice with no delay between presses.

Try this Search instead: Search using aircon

It sounds like a loose connection. When the monitor is not working or looks like it is dead, if you look very closely in dim light, does it look like it is there but very dark? If so, you may have an intermittent back light bulb. Check the connections to it. If not, here is a post about connections that might help: Post from iannez about similar issue Also, it is a known problem with some PSA cars that as they get older the back up battery for the alarm (which charges off the car battery) gets tired and then simply flattens the car battery quite quickly. I would never run a C5 with a poor battery, they tend to give a lot of problems. I've got a little cigarette lighter plug in that tells me the battery voltage all the time.

The Haynes manual is indeed OK for everything except the engine if you have a 2.2 Hdi. The missing bits can be sorted with the French manual and some understanding of French.

Hi Dave, I did the wire and black tape fix in early 2007. It is still working. That is the way I would do it. As a total cynic I am going to guess that the "repair kit" is simply another stick on printed circuit to attach to the glass, and is £25 notes of parts for £250. If you cannot find the detailed document on the Yahoo Group or do not have it for any reason, then send a mail to c5 at steveu dot org and I will forward it to you. If the repair does not work it has cost you nothing in parts and about 30 minutes in labour. Good luck, post back with results. The one thing I would be sure to do is to test the button for making a short across the two pads to the rear of it when it is pressed. I have had the button fail.......