Randombloke

There are two plastic caps on the rear light assembly that you can see when the boot is open, they are about the size of 5p pieces. If you carefully pop these out you'll see 8 or 10mm nuts under them. Job done. Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. ;-)

Check that +12V is arriving at the fuse box on that particular fuse.

I will be honest about being a possible BS merchant here, but the headlights on a C5 are subject to voltage surges with the flickering caused by the new electric style hydraulic pump. That and random on-off messages from the auto lights on can't help. My money is on the pump causing the problem. Same bulbs in a non electric pump car will last forever, is my guess.

Be also worth asking if these sockets are affected by eco mode...... Have you got the Haynes or original owners manual from Citroen, these list the fuses? Otherwise you may need to post complete vehicle details here for us to give you the right numbers. There are 3 fuse boxes, one in the glove box, 2 in the engine, the engine ones have normal fuses and maxi fuses in two separate boxes. I would remove and buzz out the fuses with a continuity tester if in doubt. It's also worth checking the integrity of the sockets themselves, I had to replace one on my BX and suspect the same is due on the 406.

Perhaps more people should be asking for any parts replaced to kept and given back to the customer. Subsequent proof that the removed part was not faulty should be grounds for a refund.

From memory, the 2.0 HDi does not have FAP before 2004/5. Only 2.2 HDi are FAP equipped from 2001 on. Early 2.2 require the FAP to be replaced at 50k after about mid 2002 it becomes 75k. Prices vary but a good indy may be able to help. ;-)

You don't need to remove the unit. I have described a system (RT2) where the CD drive for the Sat Nav is separate from the Radio/CD. With RT3 or RT4 the Sat Nav CDs or DVDs are placed in the main Radio/CD player. With RT2 they are separate and I would imagine from what you say that's the system you have. Is there a CD in the drive? Can you hear anything like the drive working? Can you eject the CD? Can you swap it out? Do you have the original software? You could try reloading it if you have. Have you ever disconnected the battery without checking the Sat Nav CD drive has stopped? If so it is dead.

New C5 is a sales disaster. Sales compared to pre 2008 models is very low. Some people (caravan tow bods, hang glider pilots) want hydraulic Citroens and the new ones are about 50% coil spring models. Hard core Citroenisti with need for these cars are pushing prices up, and the newer models aren't arriving on the market for 35% of the new cost with 60k miles/3 years use. I think you need to set aside 3k for that, or up to 3.5. You also need to look at the time of year when most cars pass the three year mark and there is over supply, IMO, so try Sept/Oct or March/April? Nice 407 then, Sir? None of that nasty hydraulic stuff that gives you diagnostic costs and then can't be fixed ;-)

I support my local indy because he has been fantastic to me. Free advice over the phone to fix a jammed sunroof, for example. They guided me over the phone, for no charge. I sorted it in 10 minutes. I had dealings with two main dealers, and the experience with Bollingmores (Twickenham) was also very good. I bought a car from them and only distance stopped me using them. Your quote above is superb. Avoid the bad guys, support the good ones. If they are bad, tell them. If they are good, tell your friends...... Can I also say I'm grateful to kfk and iannez for advice, also free. Let's be chilling, now........

We need to know if your Sat Nav is RT2, RT3 or RT4. I only know about RT2 as that is what my C5 has. Please can you tell us which year and trim level. If you are talking about a 2002 C5 Exclusive, which has a Radio/CD, a changer AND a separate CD-ROM drive for the Sat Nav in the extreme right hand compartment to the right of the steering wheel, then I believe (not really had cause to do anything else) that the CD-ROM drive and ECU are the same box. I expect some of the top guys to correct this. If I were you, I would check that the backlight bulbs to the screen are working first. If your Sat Nav is RT2, do you have any map CDs for it? Do you have the original software on the CD for it? When you start the car does a little red light illuminate on the front of said CD drive, if it has a CD in it? It's a risk but you could unplug the CD-ROM/ECU. After all, It's an optional extra. However, it does interact considerably with the screen. At your own risk. Do not EVER disconnect the battery when the red light is still on, as it indicates disc activity. This is a good way (rumoured anyway) to kill the Sat Nav.

Hi Al, Is there any chance you could put some of the stuff up on this thread? Thanks.....

Changes to ride height with speed only apply to H3+, I think. Haynes agrees. Usual caveat, ask the techs, barbsc1, kfk, iannez or techbod. Look under the bonnet on the cover to the hydraulics, H3 or H3+ is written there. Information to drive the Headlight motor ECU comes from the height correctors/sensors according to Haynes. It also warning about the voltages on Xenon lamps. If the car is not levelling properly, squirt the height corrector ball joints with WD40. If it is, and the lights are still going haywire, then you have a motor or ECU fault. The headlight flicker is usual and is caused (AFAIK) by the electric motor that drives the hydraulic pump cutting in and out.

Is it a big colour screen? Look very carefully at the screen. If you can see anything at all but very, very dimly then it may just be that the back light bulbs to the LCD screen are blown. Should be easy to replace check elsewhere on this forum for the instructions as this fault has been covered. Is it a CD/Radio or is it radio only controlling a changer? The only time I ever had any problems with radio controls, it got fixed when the airbag warning came on and it was traced to a COM 2000 fault. Expensive.......... however, if it's a radio controlling a changer check the changer leads/plugs are all seated properly. Changer is under driver's seat in my car. Seeing as the radio does not change to CD (I assume on the front radio control panel) it might be a simple fault with the radio itself. Not easy to fix by swapping out as the radio has to be coded into the car, I think, kfk, babsc1, iannez or techbod to confirm? Might be worth looking at another (non Citroen) radio, but then there are costs associated with getting the steering radio controls to work, extra expense with an interface box.... Maybe search the ICE forum? I am a numpty with ICE only had one aftermarket radio in the last 16 years......

If the pump is running when the rear washer is selected on the stalk then it could be the pump is not working properly (but still running) or a hose has become detached or blocked somewhere. Might be worth connecting up a bike pump or simply blowing back down the tube, but gently. If there is a blockage you will know, if there is a leak then an accomplice will be able to verify that there are no bubbles heard in the washer fluid tank..... this may also have the effect of clearing the blockage...... I think you'll have to look in the wheel arch now but faced with removing the bumper and trim I gave the job to my local indy.....

Check the sensor wiring plugs. The Haynes manual says to remove the bumper but I would look very carefully and see if you can spot anything and if it's worth unplugging the connectors, cleaning them and reconnecting. I've not looked under my bumper yet but could be persuaded.........

More likely to be a blockage in the jet that directs water onto the rear screen. This is a very cheap or free fix so try this first. It is possible to get the plastic insert out without undoing anything, but I forget how. Will have a look and post photos if you get stuck. I think it involves using a very thin screwdriver at one end of the oval or the other. Get the plastic insert out, detach the hose from the rear and then test the washer. If it goes, a swift clean out has you sorted. If not, then from memory the pump goes one way to drive the front washer, and the other way to drive the rear. Have someone operate the rear washer whilst you listen in the drivers side front wheel arch. If you cannot hear the pump running, then this may be the fault, but it could be the stalk...... The pump lives in the wheel arch and is a little bit of a pain to remove, so eliminate all the cheapest options first.

Crank position sensor. Fuse with a hairline crack. Key barrel/Ignition lock Iffy relay. Damaged wire or dry joint on multiway connector. It's an HPi and is worth more for trim and various bits if broken than running. Sorry................... :rolleyes:

eBay or breakers for a cost to decide if you want to mess about. You Know It Makes Sense......

techbod is your man. He knows the details, but I'll go for some long shots. What is the battery voltage? Is it strange? Does the car charge when the engine is running? Have you been over all the main ECU type connectors in both the the engine bay and the glove box, possibly with a hair dryer set low, looking for water ingress? (I think the answer to this is yes) Has every single multi pin connector been checked for tightness? Are all the cables to the instrument cluster tight? Have all the fuses been checked to see that there is nothing cracked? If the car has Xenon headlights, is it worth disconnecting those? Same with the headlight levelling circuits? Have you got a COM 2000 unit you can swap out? That's lights, and trip computer info control. Also, is there any loom damage anywhere? From techbod posting about CAN Bus issues, this would be a good bet. Is the madness connected to the switching on and off of the hydraulic pump? Last, but very long shot, please set the dashboard dimmer to full on or off or bypass it......

I would turn the ignition on, and wait for the warning lights to go out, count to 5, then I would turn off again, without turning the engine over, and I would do it several times. This might get the plugs to fire up but from memory they only preheat below -5 C. When you've done this several times then try and start. Long shot but worth trying. Best with IDI engines, not DI.

Looking at your sig you've got the DW10BTED engine - covered by this manual. DW12TED (2.2) is not. Definitely worth the £20 notes. I'm quite happy as the bodywork and trim side of the Haynes is slightly better than the RTA manual, but I need the RTA manual for the engine side.

Thanks for letting us know how it got fixed. This sort of feedback improves the forum no end as we have proven answers. Long shot from me but I'm happy to hear you are fixed!!! :o

Start it up from cold with the expansion tank cap off, and look for very small bubbles in the tank.

My local Citroen indy did the Marshal Matrac XM for £69.50 plus VAT, each, fitted. They are 215/55 R16 which is the larger end of C5 tyre sizes. This was middle of last year. Got the cheaper Marshal Poweracer (stupid name, but good tyre) for the 406 for about £40 plus VAT fitted in early 2007. 15k miles later they have about 5mm of tread left. Majority motorway miles.

Thanks for the reply this is the same size as my 406 are the tyres Marshal or Kumho by any chance? It's a very good price. I'll be looking as one pair of tyres on that car are down to 3mm of tread. :(