Randombloke

Driver's airbag can be a COM2000 problem. Worth checking that the four reporting valves are actually on the wheels being used on the car. Having a reporting valve on the spare often causes this problem, it can be cured by pumping the spare up!

Where it scores over the RTA manual is that it seems to have more bodywork stuff, like the sunroof. Can't find any info AT ALL for the sunroof in the RTA manual. OTOH the stuff about things like the brakes seems to be better in the RTA manual. The Haynes manual has tried to cover too many engine types, IMV. 1.8/2.0 indirect petrol injection plus 2.0 HPi and both versions of the 2.0 HDi (ATED/BTED) plus the 1.6 HDi. By comparison the RTA version I have covers only 2 engines, DW10ATED and DW12TED. Despite all this detail, it's a thumbs up for the Haynes manual. I think it will lead to a drop in the more basic questions here.

Ah, I see, so the problem occurs because unless you use a rear facing child seat you will never turn the lock barrel and it corrodes?

Hi dude, You're lucky in some respects. To put a slant on Pam's problem, I own a 2.2 HDi powered C5. I use a local independent with Citroen accreditation. The boss of said garage looked at my car service record when I booked it in for 84k service, asked if it was a 2.2 and suggested I got the cam belt done early at 84k. When I asked why he said that he'd had 3 2.2 HDi powered vehicles in for fixes in the space of a month that had broken belts between 90 and 100k when the change is due. We went into the workshop as the mechanics had left and he showed me a C8 halfway through the fix and the pile of bits. Needless to say I paid for the belt change at 84k. Quite a few people have suffered a cost bombshell like Pam. I think you simply have to be careful with early HDi engines as the cam belt path and technology seems to be the same as XUD but has to drive 16 valves, not 8. To be honest, most car manufacturers only care about the first owner. The 100k belt change is way past first owner territory and it tends to write a lot of cars off, keeping turnover up. Last thing any manufacturer wants is us driving around in 375,000 mile BX TDs saying how brilliant they are. Please can anyone who can help her send pictures of the newer C8. Any success in her battle will improve the respect with which the main importer deals with people in such cases, and will help us all in the long run. I'm also wondering if there is a Left Hand Drive/Right Hand Drive element to this, as sometimes right hand drive cars have a compromised design due to the steering and controls being on the other side of the car. I was on a French forum briefly for the C5 and did not hear of belt breakage problems.

What size are your tyres? In the past the really good bargains can be had for the smaller or medium size C5s but the larger ones remain close to £85/tyre.

I've had exactly the same problem. Remove the plastic cap that covers the rear wiper nut and also the button for the opening the rear screen and check that the tiny white plunger that gets pushed in when you operate the button has not become slightly sticky. Your fault will be the same as mine if shutting the drivers door or banging the rear tailgate causes the glass to open. If that doesn't explain it I can do you a picture. I had to buy a new button, but I'm sure I could have sorted it with WD40. If you look in this post, you can see the small white plunger in the top photo: Estate - Glass Part Of Tailgate Opens At Random, Intermittent fault - always a pain

Haynes manual covers the drive cycle to reset the ECU. Chapter 4, part A, Fuel and Exhaust, petrol models. Not seen the battery disconnect reset yet, but then I've done what I bought the book for. My £20 is already refunded......

Looks like cold start on this is decided by the inlet temperature and coolant temperature. I can't see any wax stat or extra injector for cold. If it will bump start then we can rule out the immobiliser. I'd check very thoroughly all the wires under the bonnet. Connectors all well made and clean? Make 100% sure it's not an ignition fault. Could it be a problem with the crankshaft position sensor? My Montego had almost exactly the same fault and this was the culprit in the end. The system for the 1.8 petrol is a Sagem S2000 system. Maybe this might help in Googling for problems with it starting. Good luck.

Try the Haynes Manual

Thanks for letting us know about this - mine arrived today. It allowed me to sort out the slightly less than ideal rest position of the sunroof, always left alone in the past..... Very good for removal of things like door trims covers 1.6/2.0 HDi but not 2.2, but with easily readable circuit diagrams. Worth buying. Will earn its purchase price back very quickly.

Here is an offering from Maplin that is also a DC-DC converter: http://images.maplin.co.uk/300/a79gw.jpg Details here: Car DC-DC converter and volt meter

If you search on this and the Yahoo C5 forum you will find details of people who have done the upgrade. Here is an example of such a post: Replacement Multifunction Lcd Display-2002 2.2 Hdi Sx

On another thread we had a lot of stuff about squirting height sensors/correctors as they have been reported by the RAC/AA as a common fault. Do a search for corrector, if you don't find it post again and I'll look for it. There were pictures of said sensors/correctors.

There are three fuse boxes in the C5. Sounds to me like you either have a faulty connection from the battery to main electrics in the car, or a dodgy fuse or similar. The first thing to do is to carefully check all the fuse boxes, I would start with the main one in the engine, it has the biggest 8 fuses in it (I'm looking at the 2.0/2.2 HDi), and is close to the main ECU, just behind the battery, as are the second set. The third set are in the glove compartment. All wires tight and secure? All fuses seated properly in their sockets? No fuses looking to have cracks or damage in the fusible section? Also, some C5s have a quick release set of battery connectors (mine has) are they ok with no corrosion? Are the cable secure Check the complete run of these cables back into the car main electrical system. Otherwise, dealer............... HTH...................

What was the outcome on your MAF? I checked mine, but could see nothing really wrong. I changed it anyway, for a new one from a local factors marked with 1920 AG, looks like it's used Volks cars too, made no difference to full throttle torque or power but light throttle running became somewhat crisper. It takes about 5 minutes to change.

This is what the new button looks like, it's shared AFAIK with the 407: http://www.stuff.steveu.org/IMG_0079s.JPG The old button and the wiper have been removed, but the centre stud has come out of the plastic - ideally this needs to be removed with a puller and a new wiper assembly fitted: http://www.stuff.steveu.org/IMG_0078s.JPG Connecting the new button cables, passing them through the small aperture so they can plug in to the rear of the glass: http://www.stuff.steveu.org/IMG_0081s.JPG Sliding the 22mm nut over the shaft to bolt the new button in place: http://www.stuff.steveu.org/IMG_0082s.JPG Job done, just need to tighten up the nut then reassemble the slightly damaged wiper assembly: http://www.stuff.steveu.org/IMG_0083s.JPG See the whole lot here: Replacing the C5 rear glass release button

I bought it from Innovations. They don't do them any more. Try: Digital Voltmeter With Cigar Lighter Connector

What sort of condition is the battery in? Disconnecting and reconnecting it if the voltage is low won't long term cure anything, it might just clear it in the short term. I'd get one of these and monitor the situation: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rs8KfsF7L._SL500_AA280_.jpg You may find the voltage is sometimes low, or that the pump pulls it down..... You may also find, as I found with my BX, that the battery was OK but the leads from the battery to the car needed changing, and having done so charging and starting got so much better.

XU and XUD are a very interesting engine series as it was, AFAIK, the first engine PSA had done where the diesel and petrol shared the same block. IIRC the diesel side of XU went from 1769, including the most popular 1905 and also the 2088 12 valve XUD11. There were turbo and non turbo variants, except maybe for XUD11 which may have only been available with a turbo. Some ideas seem to have come across from XU to DW - the cam belt drives only one cam in both cases, for the second cam on DW an internal chain is used? I think that DW is more upright than XU - which is canted back some way like a lot of earlier PSA engines. The largest XUD engine had only one Woodruff key in the end of the crank where the cam belt and auxiliary drive pulley is, as I have found out to my cost!! I think XU was in use for close to 20 years! Saw the first XU powered BXes in mid 1980s, and some Berlingos had XU up to 2003?

AOL, I agree. I have bought a piston turning back tool in Halfords for 20 notes, it does not list any PSA car but I tried it this afternoon and it works. The tool is exactly the same one as techbod posted in the picture.

Please view this thread for more info: Blower on the blink

Season's Greetings to you - and thanks for all you've put into the forum this year answering questions. Mine's running crisper due to a MAF sensor change (no faults but decided to try mlkeys advice after his hassle) just wondering if there is a little more brake drag than usual. Just done a run to Paris - smooth as silk............ All the best 4 2009 including a Haynes Manual...... :rolleyes:

Over the last week the glass part of the tailgate started opened a few times at random - unlocking car, slamming door, and soon after going into reverse. I ordered a new switch for the glass part after the car lost the plot and would not let me leave the Devil's Dyke car park without opening the tail gate. In desperation I disconnected the switch at the cable joint under the small plastic cover on the other side of the glass to the rear wiper. This solved the fault so I ordered a new switch. To change the switch the rear wiper must be removed. Easy, plastic cover off, nut undone, then pull wiper. Wiper comes off leaving the metal inner that sits on the taper laughing at me. It would not come off. Fortunately the plastic cover lower down can be persuaded off over the said metal inner, the big nut holding the switch on can be undone (22mm!!) and the switch replaced. Managed to kind of get the wiper back together with brute force and ignorance but will need to remove stuck on metal part and replace rear wiper assembly. However, rear wiper works, glass now opens again and only does so when asked. The way the button that opens the tailgate works is quite weird. It's not a plunger but a whole assemble moving backwards to a point that then touches a button in. Will post some links to the issues when I get the pics out of the camera. The micro switch on the old assembly is now very sticky. It might have unstuck with some WD40, but the risk was that the fault would return at motorway speeds.....

My first port of call would be the rubber cable shield on the extreme LHS of the tailgate when you are standing behind it. There have been other posts on this site or the Yahoo one about finding cable damage in here. It's easiest to see when the glass is open but the main tailgate is not. There is also a loom that is partially hidden by the near side plastic hinge cover. I have a random glass section of the tailgate opening problem which I have to write up for this site. BTW, it's possible to get the glass open by removing only a few of the poppers that hold the tailgate trim in place. Start under the wiper at the top, and then progress towards the nearside then down the side towards the bottom. You only need 6 to 7 poppers out before you can get your hand in and move the plunger. The plunger goes up, not down - I removed some more before realising my mistake. When the glass part is open, you then need to remove the 4 Torx screws that allow you to remove the housing for the high level brake light. This will allow better access to the cables mentioned and will allow you to see if you can get better access to the struts? In addition to these 4 screws, the high level brake light is also held in place by 2 of those trim type plastic studs that nearly always break when you remove them so I keep 3 or 4 in the car as spares. Good luck!

The manual is out? but no one seems to have any stock. All the eBay vendors are saying you can order but nothing will be sent until some time mid Jan. Does anyone know of anywhere with any stock? None on eBay or Amazon. Looks like you still can't buy it from Haynes themselves. I've registered to be informed when it's available. Back to first or second quarter of 2009. Details of C5 Haynes Manual here