Randombloke

I have had a minor engine fire on a BX caused by a faulty relay. If the van will start and run with the relay removed it would be worth trying. Maybe start from warm after removing the relay.

Just to get back on track - the OP is asking how to stop the box dropping a gear so as to use torque rather than revving. The car is a 2.2 so even the oldest version is 136 bhp. Older versions of this engine will pull from just above idle in all except the top 2 gears if you have the manual. However, this end of the rev range is where the torque converter will slip or allow the box to drop down. Allowing the box to learn driving style seems like the simplest and cheapest route. Worth trying before spending money.

Snow selection should force higher gears than normal. Worth trying to see if you get the results you want.

I may be mistaken, but the setting/command that keeps the sidelights on is processed by the COMM 2000 unit in/around the steering column. The sidelights on fix is only really a work around when the auto side of the lights on/off is playing up, when there's a COMM 2000 fault the commands from the stalk are being sent wrongly, AIUI. It's worth checking that the stalk itself is not at fault. I'll check if I still have my COMM 2000 unit, it has an airbag fault, but I think the stalks are ok if you want to cannibalise it. It may be a problem with the contacts in the stalk. Personally I would bite the bullet and replace it if it's the COMM 2000 unit. IIRC it needs to be coded into the car, and not cheap, but I paid out the cash rather than risk problems with the functions it controls, which can be vital to road safety.

This might not be the auto side of the headlights if you have turned that off. It could be a problem with the stalk or the COMM 2000 unit. Have you turned off the auto side of the lights completely with the procedure in the owners manual? IIRC you turn the ignition to ACC and press the stalk on the LHS until you get a bong. A proper Citroen tech will be along soon.

Give us your rough location and other members will be able to give recommendations. My local Citroen indy has been very keenly priced for tyres for both my 406 and C5.

The 406 just developed this - looks like the auxiliary belt so it's gone on off to Mid Kent Vehicle Services. Pete has ordered the auxiliary belt, hoping it's not the cam belt...... at least it got there under its own steam without a breakage......

Did 250,000 miles in 2 BX estates between Jan 1993 and Sept 2006. If I could have a more modern version with air con, abs, cruise control and the same set of instruments (fuel, water and oil temp plus battery) as a C5 I would have one tomorrow. Still my favourite car, but then I never got an XM. I'd have wanted a fully loaded 2.5 TD estate.

I would double check the throttle pot, and make sure that the end stop switch on it is working, if there is one. Also check the MAF sensor. I would look here next: BBA-Reman website Also read this page: BBA Reman ECU repair offer Good luck.

I'd agree and say have the belt done at the 84/87.5k service, whatever it is, especially if it is a 2.2 or a 16 valve 2.0 HDi.

If you do a search it's been discussed in some depth. 1. Flickering is sometimes due to the electric pump cutting in and out as it drives the suspension. 2. Faulty COM 2000 unit sending wrong signals from dip/main control from stalk. 3. Stalk itself is knackered. All IMO, ask a real Citroen tech for the correct answer.

I don't have a detachable tow ball but it's as close as possible to the rear bumper.

Whereabouts? Be most grateful, as I can't find it on my 2002 2.2 Exclusive. I found that a tow bar on its own does not set off the reversing sensors, but I will need to turn them off when using a trailer.

Not sure, but FAP problems IIRC were worst with cars driven round town that did not get warm or have the engine used in anger. There were a couple of MPG threads, sorry but you'll have to sue the search function. IIRC 45 to 50 with a 6 speed box? Maybe low 50s?

There's water in it if it's an estate? - probably causing some sort of partial short. Removal to dry out is easy BUT involves clips and screws, and the clips are easy to break. When I fixed the rear glass I noticed that this area was damp, so I dried it out.

If you can find one, I would go for the 2.0 in 138 bhp guise (DW10BTED), in the highest spec affordable. Be wary of problems with the DPF/FAP and the top ups for it, cam belts close to 100k miles and front wheel wobble. I'd also be wary of "budget" tyres on the front wheels. Sun roofs can be problematic, check it, as can central locking, make sure all four doors and boot lock and unlock, and if an estate make sure the glass opens separately from the boot. 2.2 can be thirsty, auto box very much so. A few problems with dual mass flywheels, but not a lot. Rear brakes rust at the calliper to swing arm joint IIRC. Height correctors/sensors occasionally stick. Worth also checking that the climate control/air con works and is cold when cold and hot when hot as there have been reports of flaps getting stuck or the motors that drive them stripping cogs.

Thought we'd had this one before - throttle pot or crank position sensor?

That might be expensive if you want the column controls to continue to work. In the end with my old 406 it was cheaper to get the changer 2nd hand from eBay than to buy a new radio unit plus interface to car controls box. YMMV.

The ECU is in the engine compartment behind the battery and has two connectors with a total of 56 pins, looks like 2x28 pin connectors. Looks to me like the whole box is controlled by just the one cable from the shift handle. Seems to control two input selectors on the box itself. I would check the cable at both ends for any sign of looseness, and also make sure nothing has been dropped on top of the box (like a small nut, or bit of wood, or stone) that's interfering with any of the controls for the box.

I thought that the idea was that the yellow wire got shorted to earth, energising the lock and undoing it. I could be wrong. With the small plastic cover off the back of the button, check it gives a short when pressed. Then measure resistance to the thin wires from both sides of the button. Be also worth measuring from the button or where you disconnect at the top back to the lock itself.

Friend was complaining about very poor performance on a C5 1.6 HDi - I think this is the shared PSA/Ford engine, not so? Checks in the engine bay did not show an accelerator pot, so I thought I would look in the foot well, inspired by the Coastline story of the bent/re-welded throttle pedal. Two things transpired - First of all the car had the wrong aftermarket carpet liner fitted, that was tending to get under the accelerator pedal. It made sense to remove that was it did not fit on the locator lugs that the carpets for the front of this car usually locate on. Secondly, it appears that there is a switch under the accelerator pedal, which in this case takes a fair amount of effort to make click over to the other setting. Unless the pedal contacts the hard stop underneath it there is no chance this switch can be activated. My friend tested the car again and there was an improvement in performance. He made sure to push to the floor and feel the click that resulted from the end stop on the under pedal switch. Is the switch mounted under the throttle pedal how the older DuraTorq engines got their short term torque boost? Posted in case someone is thinking of spending money on diagnostics - this had a check over last service and no fault was found, bar a leaky injector that was replaced.

The DPF removes soot in the exhaust, and the MOT test looks for soot or particulates. So, if the engine is rather old it may have an impact.

If you do a Search you will find that there have already been posts made about problems with auto boxes. I think that Coastline has made some very useful posts in the past. I know almost nothing about the C5 auto box but the first things I would check are: ATF levels in the box? Is the paddle hitting the right (micro) switch when operated and is the switch still working? Have you bought a manual? Haynes, perhaps? Have you checked for any loose wires or multi pin connectors on the gearbox?

If you look under the scuttle you will see why. The mechanism there changes the rotary motion of motor into a back and forth motion of a piston, which moves the wipers in an arc. I've had the same problem on the rear wiper of a Montego Estate ad a BX Estate. If the motor slips in the disc that drives the back and forth motion, the motor will still park in the same place but this will correspond to a different position for the wipers. Try the suggestion below to park the wipers in the up position to change the blades. Is it still the same problem? Can you see any end stop sensors when the scuttle is off? Have you removed the cover and checked the wiper mechanism?

I'm going to guess that the motor has slipped, the spindle is no longer in the right place on the mechanism under the cover where the wipers are. Haynes manual purchase followed by a look. HTH.