Randombloke

I would endorse this advice as I have had problems with my C5 being very fussy about wheel balance. It's a low/no cost option. Usually the place that did the tyres will rebalance them once for nothing. Point out that the C5 is VERY fussy about wheel balance. In my case after the rebalance and a small improvement the front/rear wheels were swapped (the rears were only 2 months older than the new fronts) and the problem went away. Worth trying before anything else.

Wobble could be driveshafts, especially if it goes away as you speed up beyond 70. Had a similar issue with a BX.

No. Ask around the locals and find a breaker. I bought some headlights for a sh*te old Corsa that failed the Controle Technique for €35 a pop. The work you're looking for is "occasion".

I've seen C5 2.2 SXs with H3+, i.e. Sport button. I think Visa10E is right. Not sure if you could not order it as an extra, though.

It would be interesting if you were to measure the voltage at the cigarette lighter output. My BX had slightly tired and corroded +ve and earth straps from the battery, resulting in poor charging and less than ideal cranking speed. Changing both straps made a big difference. I noticed the fault when I measured the cig lighter voltage and then checked several days later on the battery, noticed a discrepancy and then checked back to back thus finding the fault. If the main straps are going high resistance not only will the voltage be lower but spikes from the electrically driven hydraulic pump are more likely to cause problems with the myriad of sensors the C5 runs on.

Set the mirror adjustment selector to mid position and then see if the mirrors retract when you push the button backwards (towards the rear of the car). If the manual retract works then push the button backwards again and hold it there for more than 5 seconds. This will reset the auto retract on locking the car. If the mirrors do not manually retract then you will need to search for a fuse, it's detailed in the drivers manual.

What I was saying is that if you can upgrade or down grade without needing to code the new display into the car, then you can do the same with a swap. Also, you have a working single line display, so can use that until you find a second hand 2 line display. That's better than no display at all? This thread has now been merged with the previous one on displays so you can see the results. It's something that a moderator must do. Thanks kfk.

I bought mine to do the update here: Citroen Auch Finding the CDs for the rest of Europe was easy second hand via eBay, or there are other ways. The voice directions integrate well with the rest of the audio system and with Traffic Master.

Elsewhere on this forum you can find details of the one line LCD to 2 line LCD upgrade, simply swap the displays. You'll need to do a search for that. It also follows that you can use the one line display in place of the two line if stuck. As long as you are not talking about the colour one fitted to higher end vehicles, you should be fine. Please can we merge this with the previous thread. Thanks.

You need to check that the reporting valves are on all the wheels in use, and that one of them s not on the spare which has gone down. HTH.

As the owner of one1 RTA (C5) manual and two Haynes ones (BX + 406) I am not holding my breath over the Haynes manual, and suspect it would be easier to learn French from scratch than to get adequate info from a Haynes manual that will attempt to cover too many engines and variants. I'm also placing a bet that there will be no Haynes manual for the C5 in 2008. First or second quarter of 2009 is my guess, based on no evidence whatsoever.

Hello Mr Moderator, Please can we merge this thread with Sticky Steering Wheel

Mine suffered this and a fair amount of persistent cleaning with the wipes sold for cleaning interior car plastic and the alcohol based any surface wipes eventually cleared it. Took a lot of doing, and a lot of black grime came off, but it's ok now.

A fault should be logged in the diagnostics, even when it's cleared. I had a faulty swirl valve put me in limp home, and then after the car had been left and restarted it cleared, but was still in the history. Turbo on HDi engines works very hard at low revs, I can here it on mine starting to whistle between 1,300 and 1,500 rpm. The only other thing is to be 100% sure that the battery is ok. kfk has made this point a number of times.

Turbo over boost says 3 things to me: Turbo waste gate is stuck shut, or not opening properly. Sensor that measures turbo over pressure is Donald Ducked. There is a kink or blockage in the pipe that carries the turbo pressure to the sensor that measures it. After all the whole idea of the waste gate is to stop the turbo over boosting. kfk or iannez will correct this if they are around.

Swap the front tyres over and see if it then pulls to the right. If so there's a problem with the tyres. Check that none of the brakes is binding.

The track on the pot is worn, or if it's a push and hold adjustment, the dimmer is tired. Leave it on full - unless you do a lot of driving on dark lanes you won't need the dimmer. If it's a push to adjust dimmer you can blank out the whole dashboard except the speedo with a long push anyway.

This is possibly the topic: PSA fault codes from BBA Reman P1288 Cylinder head temp sensor Out of self test range P1491 Secondary switch solenoid circuit malfunction Is the CHT sensor connected, or wires loose? The second one looks like it might be EGR. You may as well buy a book of fault codes if you are going to use the diagnostic.

Does it pump itself up to the right height? NO? -> Height sensor corrector? Yes? What model is it? Is the Sport mode on? Has the bulb under the Sport button croaked? To make suggestions, year, exact model and mileage might be a good idea. At a guess, a sphere membrane has leaked or ruptured.

Passenger Window Electric Windows, Random opening problems or use the Search function

Yes, mine is an 02 Exclusive with a drawer under the passenger seat and a CD changer under the driver's seat. If you are doing the rounds of a scrappy to find the right changer, check that your car is wired for it first. I made the mistake of not doing this with a sh*te old 406 and ahd to buy and run the wire for it. PITA!!! If you find the right changer it should come with the brackets. Check the price of a new one first so as not to be ripped off on eBay or second hand parts. Check Add a Changer for some clues

My manual from RTA mentions the BSI in the cabin, with the leads in the glove box behind the cover, and the BSI also in the engine bay, and another BSI for suspension. BSI means Boitier de Servitude Intelligent. This applies to the ECU in the glovebox, the engine ECU in the location I have mentioned, and also the ECU for the suspension located lower down on the RHS of the engine bay, bonnet open facing the car. The BSI mentioned in the suspension context takes input from brake and clutch and sends output to the main controller for the suspension. Why not simply tell us (kfk actually, as he has the real life experience) what the problem is and why you are looking for the ECU in question? The provided link looks like a controller for interior functions in the car.

Lift up the bonnet, look to the right hand side (as you look at the engine), it's under a cover, just behind the battery. Lift up the cover, you'll see a number of multiway cables and an ECU. That's it. HTH.

Pre 2004 - 2.0 - 26kgm (255Nm) @ 1,750 rpm 2.2 - 32.8 kgm (317Nm) @ 2,000 rpm

I'm informed by Gendan that this code reader will work on 2002 2.2 HDi C5s: Sealey VS863 Enhanced Code Reader for Renault, Peugeot and Citroen Cars . Quote from tech info on that page: This code reader will read/clear codes from EOBD diagnostics systems (this covers engine, powertrain and emissions faults), and from the Airbag, ABS and Automatic Transmission systems on compatible vehicles. It will not read/clear codes from other systems, e.g. air conditioning, immobiliser or Suspension systems, and will not reset "service due" indicators. £228.95 all in, not cheap.....