Randombloke

Hi mate, nice of you to say so but the real stars in this group are iannez and kfk. :P

Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Used to reduce emissions. It's a valve that controls this, they are know for causing hassle on the HDi engine.

Checks: Carpet or mat under accelerator causing throttle not to go to full wick. Same issue with cable stretch not taking throttle pot to full wick. Is there a leak anywhere in the inlet manifold? It could be that one of the rubber hoses that forms part of the manifold is off somewhere? Worth checking the whole inlet path, this is exactly what would happen if a hose was loose, leaking or not replaced properly. My experience is the same as davidad's, the engine pulls well from 1,500 and goes into orbit at 2,750-3,000 rpm. Full throttle take off result in screeches and ESP/ASR intervention, so I don't do that.

The same for me - the cigarette lighter requires a very long adaptor, you can get these with an adjustable angle on the second section. The other two power outlets do not require the plug to be as long.

The button on the dashboard that mutes all the dashboard lights for night driving is stuck or jamming? Same button for rheostat needs a few prods to reset it and sort problem?

Sounds like it's an engine steady(or damper) rod and is there to reduce movement in the engine and therefore possibly clutch judder on power take up. If it's left as is then there is the chance that the other engine mounts will wear out.

If your car came without manuals for car or sat nav try eBay. My car was without these and I bought them on eBay for a small sum. If the car is the current model then you can buy them from Citroen.

I would say that the info is wrong. AFAIK early C5s with DPF (filters) needed these changing at 50k. This can be determined from RPN/ORGA and it must be done. Iannez or kfk know more about this than me but I would be worried and would probably visit another 2 dealers and ask them. Alternatively, ring Bollingmores in Middx and find out what their opinion is. Before making any calls have the RPN/ORGA number to hand so those you are asking can find when your car was made and how often it should have the DPF changed and the Eolys fluid topped up. It is the case that if your car is not a 50k DPF change then it's definitely 75k. When the particulate filter gets clogged it does affect the car's running and eventually AIUI the car will go into "limp home" mode.

You'll need the CD with the Navidrive software - should have been supplied with the car. You then need to select another language from the screen that controls the voice, it will then ask for the CD.

Most auto boxes waste energy heating the ATF in the torque converter at some point or another. Especially with diesel, best economy comes from using the enormous bottom end torque, which is where an auto box always wants to change down, with their history of optimisation for petrol engines. A diesel can be made to pull the higher gear when driven manually. There's a sweet spot for fuel economy on the 2.2 HDi H3+ cars at about 67 mph. That's just before the car drops 11mm at the rear and 16mm at the front to create more down force for extra stability. In doing so, it also creates more drag. I'm wondering if my display upgrade affected the fuel economy calculations. That software update is very cheap, see elsewhere on this forum for details. Did you get the car from new, and if not are the tyres the right profile? Does the speedo also read optimistically? Worth checking with a GPS.

Soft drinks, especially Coke and coffee/tea are very bad for electronics. Should you make this mistake the electronic part needs cleaning out immediately. Coke left in for more than 48 hours really causes havoc. Once damage to the circuit board has taken place it's a replacement job.

I'd have a look to see if the vacuum pump to brake servo hose has any leaks between the pump and the servo itself. It's on the end of one of the cams opposite to the cam belt end. Citroenisti will be now pointing out that the braking system on the C5 is a Peugeot system, and that we should have stuck with the Citroen system off the hydraulic pump. Allegedly Peugeot wouldn't pay to have the ESP developed for the Citroen system, despite the fact that the Citroen system leads to simpler ABS, IMV. Xantia/XM last Citroen braking systems. ;)

When I had 3 tyres with reporting valves on the car and the fourth as a spare I suffered this problem. The reason the fourth properly equipped tyre was not in use was a slow leak - this meant that it would either give errors from the boot or after even longer not appear to be fitted. I'd check all five tyres are pumped up and maybe put the spare on the car if it has a reporting valve, and one of the working wheels hasn't. Question! My car only ever gives me low pressure abuse. It never indicates which tyre the abuse or message came from. How can I tell which tyre or wheel was the source of an underinflated or punctured warning? Thanks in advance for any info.......

Two questions: 1. Are you 100% sure that the throttle cable is in good condition? Can you check under the bonnet to make sure that nothing is fouling it or the accelerator pot(entiometer)? Is the pot end of the cable correctly secured? Did you make sure that there is not a problem with the footmat in the driver's footwell? 2. When they fixed the problem, did they check/change/measure the accelerator pot? Did they check that the end stop switch on the accelerator pot is working properly? Can you see any evidence of this assembly being changed? Maybe it would make sense for you to disconnect the battery (be very careful make sure you do this correctly) and to measure the resistance with a multimeter across the accelerator pot, as you turn it from one end to the other. If you see a sudden jump or discontinuity in the value, the pot is faulty. Please check your service bill to see what they did and post details here.

Bom dia Luciano. You should start by checking the height sensor or height corrector which should be attached to the rear anti roll bar. Sometimes these can stick, I'm told. There is another message on the other C5 forum on Yahoo about how to free these up if they have stuck. The only other issue for you that I can think of is if you have a problem with the swinging arm bearings, on older Citroens (BX for example) these used to fail by making a creaking noise. Maybe you need to see if these have failed, and the arms are seized on the bearings. With the anti sink fitted to Xantias/XMs and from there on I think the height correctors are more likely to seize as they do not get the workout or movement they used to with BXs.

Having two hang gliders on the roof tends to eliminate a magnetic aerial mount. Anywhere tends to be under them, hence back to square 1. A longer aerial in the standard mount would fix the problem. I'm just looking for a longer, possibly higher gain aerial.

My local Citroen repairer has had 3 2.2 HDi engines in recently with belt breakages close to but below the 100k where they should be changed. There was also damage to cams and chain done in the failure. In the light of this I will get mine done at 87.5 k not 100k, as I will be keeping the car in the long term, barring any major problem. Something to consider if you have a 2.2 HDi powered car.........

No they do not. You are better off sending all the stuff to the Consumer's Association, or Watchdog. If the situation got worse after the Eolys/DPF(also referred to as FAP) change at 75k then there is a chance that the procedure was not done correctly. This is the one reason I've been told by my local Citroen repairer to always check the DPF/Eolys change record when buying second hand. If there is no record of it, then I was told to simply find another car, and if I bought against their advice, to get it serviced elsewhere. I would recommend buying any FAP/DPF equipped car before the first change. Yes, it costs more, but then you are sure of where and when it was done. I've been told that having the service done with less than 3/4 of a tank is a good idea and that after the change to go straight to a garage and put at least 10litres of fuel in the tank. Sorry I can't be of more help.

The link to the instructions is given in the first reply in this thread. Here is it again: C5 Yahoo group instructions for fixing rear window If you can't be bothered to join the group, PM me with an e-mail address and I'll send them to you as an attachment.

Did you forget to lock the car, in which case the suspension pump may have flattened the battery? How old is the battery, if it's old, then a sudden failure is not impossible, and the first step I would take would be to replace the battery, get any fault codes read (and written down for you with their numbers), then the whole thing reset. Iannez or kfk will be along with the correct answer soon, if this is wrong, I hope. Big thanks to them for anything they post.

Hi Al, You driving a five or six speed?

Some info here: 2.0 HDi lack of acceleration If there is slack in the cable I think the throttle pot is under the main ECU for the engine behind the battery. The pedal is low in comparison with some other cars I've driven and is also quite short travel.

You are wrong, I'm afraid. The 2.0 HDi has a turbo. A friend had a problem with the floor mat sticking under the accelerator, and the cable having stretched. This limited performance on the accelerator, but performance using the resume button on the cruise control gave good results still. Removal of the offending mat and slack taken out the cable fixed the problem. (2.2 HDi auto) Other checks: Splits/leaks in hosing from turbo via intercooler to inlet manifold; Sticking/faulty EGR valve; Incorrectly fitted or clogged air filter; MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor disconnected or defective; Other more subtle fault with fault code that needs to be read on diagnostic. Drive with the windows open past tall fences or walls and listen for turbo whistle. I have never had a PSA car (Peugeot/Citroen) on which I could not hear the turbo. HTH, HAND.

The SM was the car, that, AFAIK bankrupted Citroen and had them bought by Peugeot/PSA for peanuts. It brings to a close the line of truly innovative Citroens, years ahead of their time, like the DS, GS and the SM itself. The CX was also part of that legacy, being launched before the Peugeot take over, but to my mind was not so innovative. SMs are like XMs are like dogs, not just for Christmas, but for life. If you get a good XM (not petrol turbo 2.0, or gas guzzler 3.0 auto) then it can be a great car. The same is not so true of an SM, and IMV any SM is very deep hole guaranteed to swallow endless sums of money.

I always change batteries in plips at the first sign of any hassle. When replacing the batteries I make sure the contacts are as clean as possible. Have you done this?