Randombloke

Battery Charge Fault & Immobiliser, How to re-set the Immobiliser? Strange Happenings With Lights & Central Locking Plipping Key No Longer Working, Key Just Bought A 2002 C5 1.8i Lx, Can someone please answer a few questions? Do you have one of these? Saved me a lot of aggravation with my BX, was able to sort out poor charging: Digital Car voltmeter, plugs into ciggie lighter

There is a way if you want to. Easy to use Voltmeter for car cigarette lighter

If you can't use the search then simply post the problem and someone else will post you a link. If you don't think it is terse or rude just to post a link as a reply then I for one will post the links for you. We know your car is a 2001 SX but can you just confirm it's a 2.2, and is it manual? I don't think any cars that far back except 2.2 had DPF. Please can you also post the mileage, see below. There are two options here but they may not help you. 1. Wait for Haynes manual now promised. Haynes Manual is on its way 2. Buy the manual in French, details here: Workshop manual, Citroen C5 Definite problem. I've also got a 406 with the 2.1 XUD and the C5 blows its socks off at low revs. You need to check thoroughly for leaks in the pressurised side of the inlet, especially the intercooler in and out. I've seen some C5s with a puddle of oil at the bottom for the intercooler. All jubilee clips need to be tight, any leak here will render the turbo less than effective. This has to be sorted or the car goes into "limp home mode" with no power to be had. When the filter has been changed and the Eolys topped up the ECU may need to be reset. Do not ignore this. You would be well advised to post the RPN (4 or 5 digits in drivers door) here, so someone can tell you if the particulate filter needs to be changed at 50k or 75k miles. My gut feeling is that it is a 50k miles DPF change. A dodgy battery in a C5 is asking for trouble. Disconnecting the battery without following the procedure is asking for trouble. Even before I heard about your hassles it was the first thing I mentioned. I had some minor faults this Summer and a low battery was the culprit, a boost charge by my indy garage sorted them. I'm watching the battery closely as it's the original in a 6 year old car and will change it as soon as there is any suspicion. Wipers - worth checking all the obvious things before you go to the garage, but if it is nothing obvious it may be in the steering column, a common fault here is the COM 2000 unit. Expensive. Don't forget that the first position on the wiper arm is the one where the wiper only runs when the rain sensor tells it to. Check the service history. See if the particulate filter and fluid change was done at the correct interval. If not, trouble. Get it done ASAP. Otherwise it will simply go into "limp home mode" and you will find it a struggle to go anywhere in a hurry. Get the garage to tell you the fault codes. Once they have been wiped after servicing it's difficult to get them back. Keep notes as to what was wrong. Post a rough location, e.g Leicester, Kent, so we can tell you about the garages we love and hate, and have had hassle with, or excellent results with. PS. This new member has similar hassles to you here: Visa10E's New Member thread

If you cannot find some or all of your faults using the Search then it makes sense to post them as threads so we can see if anyone has suffered the same. Either of these threads cover any of your problems? C5 Annoyances Specific To Second Hand Cars, Things to check, sort out or avoid on s/h 2002 C5 2.2 Hdi Exclusive - Thinking Of Buying, Service Shedules, things to watch out for etc??

I paid £144 + VAT for filter, and £77 + VAT for fluid. PM me for a decent indy in Kent.

Electric Windows, Random opening problems

If you can find a later software version than the one you have it may be worth upgrading it anyway. If you have the original software CD and insert it, then a display comes up tell you what versions of what are loaded. If you put in a newer CD then it will offer to upgrade the software. C5 VDO Dayton shares software with 607, so it may be also on a CD in a top end 607. Sounds to me like a dead ECU of some sort. You may be able to get it from a scrappy but odds are it has to be coded into the car anyway. Might also be worth trying a reset with the battery disconnected. Be sure to do the right way.

Before posting a list of faults it might pay to use the search function - the answers might already be there and I must admit that I now no longer type up answers to problems I replied to before. For me the reason I avoided the Xantia was the lack of roof rails, and the poor choice of diesel engines until it was equipped with 2.1 12 valve XUD engine. The 1.9 had the potential to guzzle fuel if it was caned, and the car was so much heavier than the BX, with seats that for the taller person were not as good IMV. However, an end of line HDi 110 hp Xantia can be excellent value for money. It also always pays to do research on cars before buying, I had a long list of checks given to me by my local independent Citroen repairer. I must admit to not seeing the point of buying a 1.8 or 2.0 petrol one, including HPi. 1st piece of advice - make sure your C5 has a quality battery, both voltage and current delivery wise. Lower voltages can often cause sensor issues. Do not disconnect the battery without waiting the right length of time. 2nd piece of advice - find a good repairer. Maybe a good Citroen dealer, maybe an independent. Lastly, if you have owned and liked Triumph Stags then surely unreliability isn't going to put you off a car? :P

Very good but I did not get the the disc through them as Citroen UK no longer list it. Got it from a big dealer in the South of France. My independent repairer (Citroen Approved) is Mid Kent Vehicle Centre. 01622 794499.

You need to buy the CDs with the maps on them and swap them round in the CD drive for the Sat Nav, which is under the dashboard on the RHS of the steering wheel.

I have had this problem on mine but it was traced to a duff CD in the sat nav. Basically it worked ok and then I bought some more CDs for it and I had major sat nav crashes to green screen but only in the middle 1/3 of France. I replaced the CD and the fault has not re-occurred. I would suggest you eject the CD from the Sat nav CD ROM drive and see if the fault still occurs. Eject the CD, leave the car for 15+ minutes then fire it up again. It may also be worth upgrading the software. I don't know if you can buy the CD easily, but I did and upgraded mine.

If it's the 1905 cc engine it's an XU based unit and is indirect.

That's good as there are quite a few forum members looking for good independents in your area. I have a good independent in my area, Kent. Anyone in Kent can send me a PM and I'll pass details on.

Who said the filter is that price? My receipt for the filter shows about £145+VAT. Fluid £70-ish plus VAT. The ECU will need to be reset after the fix. No point going anywhere unless they can do that.

Both the wheel wobble problem and anti pollutant messages are well documented here, please use the Search function. 2.0 HDi steering vibration C5 Steering Wheel/column Vibration Wheel Wobble With Alloys - Recall? and for the anti pollution: Click here for a search based on Eolys fluid and see how the search works. Guide to some problems with s/h 2.2 HDi here: C5 Annoyances Specific To Second Hand Cars, Things to check, sort out or avoid on s/h

If you Google for it on Newsgroups and the web there is a lot of info about the ratio PSA Peugeot Citroën have been running their diesels on. They have tried ratios up to 50:50. However they have a factory full of replacement injector pumps and injectors if it all goes pear shaped. If I was going to experiment with Bio I would try it first on an XU diesel. Just a hunch.

Have a look under the rocker cover (or what ever you remove to see the cams, if you can) and look to see if there is a badly scored cam lobe. If as iannez says the engine has run low then it's very costly fix, but it may be that just one tappet has got its oil feed clogged and got lazy. It will be just this tappet that will be tired and the cam scored. It may be that the cam is not yet scored and the tappet can either be replaced or removed and soaked in paraffin then oiled up before re-installation. I had a friend who used to remove the injectors, drain the oil and then turn the engine over on the starter with the engine filled with paraffin instead of oil. Risky. He would then drain the paraffin, run the engine briefly with flushing oil, then drain that and fill with proper oil. All very risky. It used to be possible to get complete cam and followers kits for GM family 3? engines? Have a look and see if it's possible to see a damaged cam lobe.

Alternator or associated wiring I'll guess is the problem. I would borrow a volt meter and stick it across the battery whilst the engine is running. You are hoping to see about 13.2V minimum with no electrical stuff switched on. Note the value of the reading. Switch off the engine and see what happens. There should be a fall in the number measured. If there is no fall i.e. the number is the same with engine running as off (about 12.6 V) then the alternator is looking like it's croaked. With XUD powered cars of this age (BX) I've measured about 13.2 to 13.8V with the engine idling going up to 14.4V with engine revving at about 2,000rpm. Also put the voltmeter across the battery and see what it's like when it's fully charged on your charger. It should be at least 13.2-14.4 when the charger says it's cooked. It's worth checking the quality of both the +ve and -ve straps from battery to starter motor and earth respectively. I solved a poor charging problem on the BX by replacing old and corroded battery straps. Also check all wires on the alternator. When you've done all this if the fault persists I think your alternator is Donald Ducked.

Hi Olav! Colin Hunter wanted to put up the answers he has here but there is a problem with advance dated posts in the forum locking people out, and he is affected by this and unable to post. He asked me to send these links to you: Citroën ZX sunroof info Xantia repairs and other stuff

I'm not sure about Phase 2 C5 but I know Phase 1 should have the belt done at 100,000 but this would not be covered by £357. Does your car have a DPF (particular filter?) If so, that and the belt may have been changed at 115k, but if in doubt phone the garage that did the service. Sounds like a very good price for the car, and is the best of all the C5s with regard to power/economy compromise IMV.

I'm not an expert but have done over 250,000 miles in hydraulic suspended Citroëns. If the ride is nice and soft, like the same car but brand new, there is no problem. If the ride has become harsh and the car jars over bumps, suspect the spheres are tired. HTH. PS Probably best in C5 area as this is kind of specific to C5/C6.

Blow them out with compressed air? Use the tyre pump at a petrol station?

Unfortunately Citroën couldn't afford it either, and they were bought up for taken sum.

For cost reasons Peugeot - Renault - Volvo jointly developed a V6. It was 2.7 litres for reasons of tax in France. It was first seen in the 604 and Renault 30 and then in the De Lorean. It was known as the PRV V6, not surprisingly. It may have grown to 3.0 since then. This design has probably been superceded by something with DOHC.

C5, XM, CX, DS. They are like dogs. Not just for Xmas, but for life. Like an Alfa Romeo, a car for enthusiast owner. If you want some thing similar but more reliable try the Peugeot version of a Citroën car. 405=BX, 406=Xantia, 407=C5 Did you check the official figures? The ones in my manual for the auto are much worse than the manual. Have you checked the battery as suggested?