iannez

yes but the condensation will be coming from the water that is coming in through the ariel base.

yes mate. the quick clip pipe connectors or the rubber seal on the fuel filter cap is probably at fault. it has a screw on collar that pulls the seal down so it might be something simple like its not tight enough. the fault could also be down to a lazy starter or the battery starting to fail but get the fuel side checked first.

as randombloke said the glow plugs on a hdi dont come into play unless the outside temp is less than -5. 1.9td engines use glow plugs every time you turn the key so take no notice of that post. sounds to me like your fuel circuit is drawing air from somewhere and the fuel is running back to the tank. when you start the car from cold the engine is having to self bleed the air from the system before it will start. easy fix for this is to remove the spill off pipe from the injector nearest the cam pully (the one that returns the fuel to the tank) and fit a non return valve (a couple of quid from citroen) and the problem should be sorted.

remove the door card and check the membrane has not come away along the bottom of the door.

sounds like the blower motor is not using up all the power going to it and a few volts are getting past it and going to earth. remove the fuse and wire a bulb across the fuse holder using 2 bits of wire and a couple of male spade connectors. if the bulb lights up you have a fault. do you know how to do a voltage drop test across 2 wires steve. use a multimeter on volts and and stick a probe on a good earth. now put the other probe on the earth wire of the blower motor and turn it on so the fan is running. you will probably get a reading of a few volts and these will be going straight to earth causing the fuse to slowly burn out. the fuse will only blow from a sudden belt of volts. the motor will probably be ok when you first turn it on and gradually start to build up resistance causing the voltage at the fuse to rise slowly and the fuse remain intact but get hot and melting the plastic.

hate to say it mate but sounds like you have pulled water up into one of your cylinders and bent a con-rod. if everything else fails you will have to remove the head and make sure all your pistons are flush with the top of the head when there top dead centre. hope i'mm wrong so make sure you double check everything else first and only have this done as a last resort.

75k is as far as i would run a car on the same belt. citroen belts are made by gates and are used by most manufacturers. they just put there name on them. dual mass flywheels and rubber bushed crank pullys are the reason for such long intervals so anyone converting there cars to solid flywheels or pullys should reduce the cambelt change by half. i have always said that if you run a diesel car the money you save on fuel you should put away for when the car goes wrong. with these modern diesel engines it is only a matter of time. an injector for a petrol car is around £80. one for a diesel is £250. thats a £1000 a set. fuel pump for a petrol is around £100. around £900 for a diesel one. most of the time it is cheaper to buy a second hand diesel engine than it is to by the part at fault. just not worth it in my opinion.

theres only 2 dealers in the country that would remove the roof panel but dont think this is your problem. remove the ariel base and refit it using some rtv (silicone sealer). these are nearly always the cause.

sounds like a blocked cat or particle filter(if it has one). if it was in limp mode you would need to turn the car of for a minute or so for it reset. it will not come out of limp mode while the engine is running. get it plugged into steve's diag tool and you will have a better idea what to try next. and dont forget his heart attack in a bun lol.

faulty rheo stat. drivers footwell on the side of the heater box. 1x silver torx20 and it pulls out. it has a 4 wire multi plug. dont need to remove anything to get at it. have a bash at it yourself. should take you no more than 5 min.

check multi plugs in psf1(engine bay fuse box) for corrosion.

f10 is the main live feed and f18 also carries a live to it (ignition live). http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/iannez_photo/Diagsocket.jpg

how long have you owned the car. if you have not owned it long or its a shared car the ecu will be having problems adjusting to your driving style and may need to be reset or an update as coastline said. cant see anything in his post about improving performance techbod. he wants it to rev lower not higher.

to do the job properly the suspension system needs to be depressureised with a dealer diag tool. if you dont want to do it properly put the car in high. loosen the sphere about half a turn (much easier to do now as everything is locked tight under the pressure). put the car in low and remove the key from ignition then leave everything to shut down for 5min and disconnect the battery. jack the rear of the car up and as the suspension lifts it will draw the pressure from the system making it safe to work on. the wheels must be hanging so no ramps. remove the old sphere and fit new. if you leave the battery connected opening a door will wake the bsi and this will then power up the pump so make sure you disconnect it.

we have a digital gauge similar to john's but i only use it on dw8 engines as they have adjustable cam pully's. some citroens have an arrow on the tensioner that lines up with a notch when the tension is correct and all others i just use common sense.

they only work on cars with adjustable cam pullys. if there fixed and you time the engine using pins you dont get a true reading unless you can get them on the tensioner side of the belt which in most cases it wont fit without twisting the belt.

as long as there the same spec and you swap the bsi's aswell it should work ok. you would have to swap the radio's aswell as the vin numbers would change over. make sure you disconnect the battery when you do it as the milage is recorded by both the bsi and the engine ecu so if you swap one the milage will be taken from which ever is the highest and writen to the other and there is no way of changing it back. so for example if one car has 115000 miles and the other has 80000 and you only swap the ecu's both cars would read 115000.

i would get your elloys fluid and particle filter checked before fitting a egr valve. a faulty egr valve would cause poor running.

try and wedge the airbox with something. there are 2 locator pegs in the bottom of the air box that fit into 2 rubber mounts. if one of the rubber mounts gets pushed through or is missing the air box rattles at low revs. the air box is a pig to get out. i put a jack under the sump, remove the engine mount and pull the engine forward for better access. remember to use a block of wood on the jack to protect the sump if you do it this way.

(new tech for you). what do you mean by that techbod.

remove the air intake pipe next to the battery and you should be able to see it. its on top of the gearbox towards the bulkhead. the bolt snaps and it falls against the gearbox bellhousing.

check the counter weight on top of the gearbox linkage.

you need to do a resistance test on the multiplex circuit. make sure every thing is pluged in. doesnt matter if you check at engine ecu or bsi. 60ohms is ok and 120ohms means theres a fault. could be broken wire or a resistor could have gone down in bsi. coherence faults are a pain in the ass to find mate.

the stalk is part of the comms unit mate. you need to remove the steering wheel and it sits around the column. wiper and indicator stalks are part of it.

no need to programme a comms unit. front fog lights is the only difference. all come with slots for the cruise ctrl and radio stalks. front fog units have 2 arrows pointing up on the fog light switch and non fog ones only have one. switch sends same signal to bsi for front and rear fogs so both would still work. blame the pub if this makes no sense lol.