iannez

its easier for them to fit it in through the day if your car is on site. if every job was given a time slot for each technician and a job didnt turn up or was late coming in the technician would be idle untill it arived and when it did it would probably run into the next jobs slot and would end up causing all sorts of problems. or if the technican rang in sick they would have to cancel all the jobs that were booked in for him that day because the other techs would be booked solid for that day. it allows for problems.

i have been doing them recalls for over a week solid now. doing 4 a day, every day. we have 600 to come back and only 3 technicians doing them. ive done around 28 so only 172 left to do. if you buy a used car from a dealer you get a 12 month dealer warrenty with it so nothing to worry about.

cut and srip the wires that run down the side of the stalk and solder them together.

the particle filters are normally finished on these when they get to 70-80k. the fact your turbo went down and caused excess smoke to pass through it will have reduced its life aswell. sounds to me when its getting hot it is blocking which would explain low power and cutting out. these filters are only made to last as long as 1 tank of eloys so both should be replaced together along with the eloys ecu as there is no way of resetting them on these models. if a regeneration of the filter does work (very rare) it will not last for long. if you have sussed out how to re-sync the key the shutdown procedure won't make any difference. best thing to do is when it wont start loosen the 4 bolts that hold the cat and particle filter together so the exhaust blows pre-filter. if it starts you will know 100% that this is whats at fault. think you will find it is. you would have a key symol flashing while cranking if imob fault, battery light would come on before cutting out if it was a charging fault (light only comes on when battery drops below 10v which is around the voltage ecu's start to malfunction) and car would not start of the button after adding fuel if it was a fueling fault. everythings pointing towards an exhaust blockage which 9 times out of 10 on these cars is the particle filter. the 1 time that its not its the cat.

if you know what components are fed from this fuse you could dissconnect 1 at a time until it stops blowing. would pay to check wiring for chaffing around pedal box area etc. you could also do a volt drop test across the battery and get someone to work each window at a time to make sure they are all pulling the same amount of amps (engine not running).

they could not fit it to your c5 because the full can models dont have the standard iso connectors. c4,s are the same but there is an adapter harness available to ge around this. as long as your c4 does not have a jbl sound system you should have no probs. if it is jbl you will need a blue tooth kit with its own speaker.

the 1.8 engines use quite a lot of oil and normally need topping up between services. many go unchecked causing a lack of lubrication to the top end causing wear to cams etc. this is probably whats happened in your case.

its not a true automatic. it has a normal manual gearbox and clutch that has a ecu operated motor that changes gear and operates the clutch for you. it rolls back because it disengages the clutch un like a real auto that will have drive even on tickover. need to use the handbrake just like a normal manual car.

thanks smokescreen. thats exactley what i am trying to get across. 1 simple voltage test across the battery is all that is needed to find this fault. r3load. if i were you i would come on this forum asking for advice with a bit better attitude in future.

hate them. diffrent reading every time you take it off the belt and put it back on. good idea if your unsure how tight the belt should be but then again if you dont know how tight the belt should feel you should not realy be doing this job. far to expensive if you make a mistake.

with respect i think you need someone with a bit more experience than you to look at this. how can there be a fault with the charging circuit as you put it if you have 14v across the battery terminals. the battery puts out around 12.5v engine not running so if theres 14v at the battery with the engine running it is receiving a charge from the alternator and why on earth are you looking in the passenger compartment for a charging/battery fault before you have checked the output of the alternator. the spare plugs are there because citroen use the same harness for all there c3,s and these spare plugs will be for things like esp, cruise ctrl or radio ctrls that this model may not have. the battery is fed direct from the alternator through a heavy wire (for some strange reason this does not run around the whole car). if you look under the bonnet instead of in the passenger compartment you might have noticed. the only thing inside the car that can cause a flat battery is a discharge caused by a short and not a spare multi plug. just check the voltage across the battery with the car running and then go and order yourself a new alternator and if i were you i would pay someone with half an idea to fit it for you. :) :D :blink:

there on the inner wheelarch covers and these are only fitted to exclusives. http://www.km77.com/marcas/citroen/c3_02/14hdi68-p/med/95.jpg

the relay for this will be in the bsi. it is not realy a switch. when you press it it sends a signal to the bsi and the bsi activates the hazzards. press it again it sends the same signal and the bsi de-activates them. sounds like the switch is sticking in so when you de-activate them it sends the signal and the contact is still made but because only 1 signal has been sent the bsi only turns them off. when you turn the car off the bsi shuts down but when you open the car the bsi is woken and because the switch still has a contact a new signal is sent turning them back on. if anyone can understand this bable please let me know because i have just read back through it and its confusing me.

the alternator will be the cause. get the car running and check voltage across battery terminals. should be around 14v.

you will need to push down on the boot while you press the button. the pressure is stopping the catch from releasing and pushing down will release some of the pressure.

sure i have a berlingo lock set in the garage. if you want it let me know and i will stick it on ebay buy now for you. £20 + £5 postage. boot lock may be different but the rest will be the same.

Penguin. where do you live mate. i have a zx estate standing doing nothing on the drive. its a 1.9d, its mot'd and the engine is 100% but the car wanders when driving and i dont have the time to sort it. thinking about sticking it on ebay but if you want it for the engine and other spares or even to repair yourself just give me a shout.

welcome paul. you should have 1 main feed (heavy wire) and one wire going into a 2 pin plug as you look down at the alternator. check the plug as the clips can weaken. if it pulls off without releasing the clip you will need to screw a small self tapper down the back of the clip to keep it secure. on these cars the light only comes on when the battery drops below 10v and not when there is no charge from the alternator. these cold mornings will bring an end to a weak battery so my advice would be to have the battery checked first and if its ok you will probably find the alternator is at fault.

if you want a quick fix just use the iso speaker socket and tuck the power one out of the way. remove the steering cowls and find perm live, ign live and a earth. splice into them and run 3 new wires to your set. your set should have 2 inline fuses but if not just fit 2. simple as that.

you need an adapter harness from a dealer. your new radio is not letting the bsi go to sleep so its just shutting its self down after 2 min. its detecting current drain when you open a door etc and powering back up sending a live to your set which is turning it back on.

remove the brake disc so you can see the hub. there is no tension on the snapped bolts so they should not be that tight. go to b&q and buy a decent plumbers blow torch (around £10) and heat just the outside edge the the bolt hole and you should be able to unscrew them by tapping the snapped piece round using a hammer and small chisel or screwdriver. if you press the hub out you will need to replace the bearing. this method has always worked for me.

its the bit around the mirror with black dots on.

i use f1's on my Leon and 8000-10000k is all i get out of them but they grip just as good in the wet as they do in the dry. because the inside of your tyres are bald i would say your tracking is out and this will not help that vibration you have. said it loads of times but the brakes and handling on your car are only as good as the tyres fitted to it. i know most people like to drive nice and steady so think there is no need for grippy tyres but it only takes one idiot on a dual carriageway to slam there brakes on in the rain and that is the point in time most people will wish they hadn't skimped on tyres. there is no such thing as a decent budget tyre. there all crap in the wet and even consider some of them dangerous (Camac, Federal, Marshal etc). if you think otherwise jump in a car with Mich's on, go round a wet greasy bend at a nice comfortable speed and then try the same thing in a car with budget's on and see how comfortable it is. my daughter is in the car most of the time with me and my gf uses it for work and there safety means a lot more to me than saving a poxy £60 on 2 new front Tyres. ask your self this. would you drive a car with worn out premium tyres. no!!!!! so why drive a car with decent budget tyres with less grip????. if a child runs out in front of you those extra few meters the car takes to stop could be the difference between life and death for that child. budget tyres are allowed because of the insane stopping distances required in this country that were set in the stone ages and everyone knows that these are no where near what they actually are on a modern day car with decent tyres. imo budget tyres are a danger to you, who ever is in your car and everyone around you!!!!! cut and paste from another site. I saw a tyre test possibly in Auto Express where they compared some of the brand names with budget tyres supplied by unknown/not popular companies. Places like Kwik Fit were selling Debica tyres for £100 for 4 tyres for a Mondeo sized car. The Debicas were appalling in the wet stopping a good 10metres + compared to one of the brand leaders........ And we had Debicas fitted to our runaround so I changed them pronto!

under the steering wheel on the plastic cowl. think its an orange handle.

one of the arms on the rear hight corrector will have snapped causing the suspension fault. there not that expensive. you will find it around the centre of your rear anti roll bar. the starting problem could be anything. was it ok before you cleaned the throttle body. remember to use axle stands when working on suspension or brakes on these cars as the have a habit of squashing people. the 2 parts are ringed in picture. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w213/iannez_photo/untitled.jpg