Johndouglas

It could be the rear arm bearings. C5's - and before them the Xantias and before them the BX's - they all had similar rear suspension and all developed wear in the arm bearings. Put your suspension on high then stand some distance from the rear of the car. If the rear wheels are looking a bit like this:- /-------\ then you can be sure the arm bearings have gone. Grinding noise when the suspension moves is also indicative.

No need! Fashions come and go.

If you want to run on veggie oil, don't get an XUD fitted with a Bosch pump. The seals will quickly harden and leaks will develop.

It isn't new - It's been around for thirty years. I remember when it first came out; blokes were having their dashboards and windscreen surrounds done out in it. Looked like a tom's boudoir - IMHO!

You can't go by what's in the handbooks. They put the same handbooks in every model. Mine is for a 2005 version and it still refers to changing the "LHM".

I bought an ex-motability Pug 306 for one of my daughters. It was a 1998 model and at three years old only had 6500 miles on the clock. It was a beauty and it sails through MOT each year. This last time I had to renew three brake hoses for another pass.

The order for bleeding is:- front left, front right, rear left, rear right.

For the sump plug you'll need an 8mm hex and the pollen filter at 20K.

Look at the valves. If they are black and flexible, you don't have sensors. If they are steel and solid, they probably have them.

Don't know but look under the driver's seat. That's where my CD player is fitted.

Get a drift behind the intermediate bearing and tap it out. Watch out for gearbox oil as the shaft comes out.

Ask your insurance company. I'm sure they would have an opinion were they to have a claim from a third party.

There are several different makes of tension gauge. Trouble is they all use their own degrees of measurement. Sykes Pickervant measure in Kgs; Burroughs measure in Newtons; Seem measure in units (although they have two different gauges); BMW have their own gauge which measures in units (but not the same units as Seem) and Burroughs/Rover measure in units (but different units to BMW or Seem); VAG also have their own gauge which measures in units (but different again) Unfortunately, there is no rule of conversion to change from one measure to another. My own particular gauge is the Burroughs for which I have a conversion table to convert Seem units as quoted by PSA, to Newtons.

As has been said, try GSF for spheres - about £21 each. There's a branch in Worthing, also St Leonards. Regarding the radio code - my daughter didn't have her's and it was lost when I changed the battery. She found a bloke in Yellow Pages who came and removed the radio and recoded it. Cost her about £20.

DOT 4 is the fluid that's recommended. Silicone may damage the seals, causing them to swell. Also silicone and DOT 4 don't mix. I've heard that it's advisable to open the bleed nipples before winding back. It also stops dirt being pushed into the ABS.

I've had one of my plips stolen. The local Cit dealer quoted me £120 for a replacement. A key cutter has cut me a key that will open the doors but it won't start the engine. Also if the car is locked with the plip and unlocked with the spare key, the alarm will sound.

By long-departed BXTZD used to do that. It was because of a touch of corrosion on the terminal connecting to the temperature sender on the thermostat housing. I found if I pulled it off/on a few times, I had no more bother for months.

Maybe these people can help:- http://www.bradfordpistonrings.co.uk/products.htm

Get hold of Haynes 3751. It covers the Xsaras from 1997 to 2000. Although our Xsara is a 2002 HDI model, there's a lot of useful information in the early manual.

AFAIK the RHZ engine is an improved version of the RHY, It has some power and torque improvement obtained through management of turbocharger pressures by the electronic injection ECU .

Bring the seven core cable through the floor and into the boot. Separate the wires, connect the white to a good earth point, take the yellow and the black to the nearside and the others to the off side. Locate the n/s indicator and connect the yellow wire to the indicator lead. The black wire goes to the n/s side light. The green wire goes to the o/s indicator, the brown wire to the o/s side light and the red wire to the brake light. The blue goes to the fog light. All the connections can be done with Scotchlocs. You also need a wire from each indicator to a buzzer. You may also have a plug connector in the boot. In which case a Citroen dealer can sell you a plugin towing loom. Had your Saxo been fitted with multiplexed wiring, it would have been safer to put all the connections through a seven way bypass relay.

See what you can find amongst this lot. They do mail order:- https://secure.gsfcarparts.com/shop/results.asp

Are you giving up motoring altogether? If not, when you buy another car you'll still have to get it MOT'ed and pay road tax. Then you've got the job of finding out all that's wrong with the new buy. At least you know what need doing on your Xantia. Since you're so much in love with it, I don't see your problem. Keep it and get cracking on the jobs.

It's fitted in the end of the cylinder head. Partly under the air cleaner. Twin wire coming away from it.

We had the very same problem on daughter's Xsara. First a beep, followed by stop sign, then back to normal. I changed the temperature sensor and it's been fine since. Not much help to you though.