Johndouglas

I used to have a 2.1 Xantia and I was never very impressed with the headlights. Even worse when they were masked for Europe driving.

Used to have a 2.1 Xantia so can recommend them. They have 12 valves against 1.9's 8, and they have Lucas EPIC injection.

Probably on the end of one of the stalks.

1. Welcome to the forum. 2. I agree, I used to have a 2.1 Xantia. Great car, great engine. 3. Sorry you are dismayed with your C5. On this and other C5 forums there are lots of other happy owners - myself included. 4. Start listing your problems. Maybe someone can help.

I don't understand! Driveshafts run from the gearbox to the driving wheels - ie: the front wheels. Each side has an oil seal and they cost only a couple of quid each. They can be replaced in minutes- after you have removed the shafts. Should you perhaps be talking about the crankshaft seal?

Can't you just follow the wiring from the back of each bulb holder and connect it to the corresponding wire in the seven core. I wired my C5 in a similar fashion. Because it is multiplexed I used an appropriate relay.

I'm not familiar with your engine size but surely if oil is leaking from the driveshaft then it's gear oil, not engine oil?

As Dave said, it should tick four times per minute. If it does more, then it isn't acting as an accumulator of pressure. Therefore power steering, brakes and suspension are under-performing.

It screws off! Anticlockwise. You'll need a wrench of some sort. Mind you don't damage the radiator by hitting it with the wrench handle.

Petrol or diesel? XUD or HDI?

Citroen enthusiasts on other sites have said yes - but I can't see how you can get a good oil change by using one. I'll stick to using the sump plug.

PSA advise not more than 30% on HDI's

Overrun is when the trailer coupling is squashed; the brakes are operating and the trailer is pushing the car. Yes! the handbrake should be on before uncoupling, but with the coupoling relaxed.

Do you apply the handbrake before uncoupling? Maybe the overrun is active. Uncoupling my caravan is no problem.

If the car is originally fitted with alloy wheels, there's a wheel lock fitted to each wheel and you should have been given two matching adapters to fit your particular bolts.

In addition to the code card, you also need the key number. Then a dealer can order the correct key which he then encrypts to your car. You'll be looking at parting with somewhere around a 100quid.

Normally you dont move the height lever - only when you need to raise the suspension. With the lever in the centre position, start the engine, and within a short while, the car should be at normal height - that is with the edge of the wheel arch somewhere in line with the tyre profile on the rear axle and at the front, a space of around two inches between wheel arch and tyre. When the engine is running, how often can you hear a clicking sound from the front of the engine?

It sounds like a torx screw, probably around T20.

The only locking tools you'll need are three 8mm bolts about 50mm long for the two pulleys, and a length of 6mm rod suitably bent to lock the flywheel. Loosen the crank bolt with the engine hot. Might be a bit of a struggle. Use a jack under the sump before removing the top mount. Turn the engine on the crank shaft until all the bolts and rod enter the holes. I've never found it necessary to replace tensioner or water pump before 80000 miles, but in view of your mileage, I would renew both. Also fit a new auxiliary belt.

Certainly sounds like the matrix. A new matrix is not very expensive but it's an expensive job to fit it. Why not try some Bar's Leak in it first?

I would have thought 70K was nearer the limit. Not that I would want to leave it that long. The Xsara medntioned below is on 56K and I'm thinking of doing the belt when the weather's warmer.

We're talking about when we switch off the enine, sit in the car with the CD player going, and you listen for 30 minutes. Suddenly, the radio turns off and "Economy mode activated" cmes on the display. Even with the ignition turned on, the radio won't switch on - until the engine has been started.

It's a b***** nuisance and as far as I know you can't do anything about it. Everything closes down thirty minutes after switching off the engine.

You can probably reach it from under the bonnet. If not front wheels on ramps.

If you're having to put water in the header tank and the carpet is wet, then it looks like a leaking matrix. And you're right! it's a dash out job to replace it. You've nothing to lose by trying something like Bar's Leak first.