Mike5483

My car has done this twice to me now recently. Ive pulled away, given it a bootful, it goes then, just feels like it cuts out for a few seconds, and then it charges off into the distance like a bat out of hell. Not nice!!! I would say is there a common factor between engines, but I cant see that there could be.

It makes interesting reading. As you say, i know so many who have bought a diesel thinking cause they get 50MPG and 500-600 Miles to a tank, it saves them money. However, how many private buyers actually put 70000 miles on a car during the typical length of ownership??? Not many thats for sure.

Easy. You need a set of round pullers. Then, they slot down the holes on either side of the stereo. There is a set of two holes, vertically aligned on either side of the stereo. Shove the pullers in, when they cant go any further, pull them towards the doors and then pull back towards you and the stereo should come with them. If you have no pullers, a bent length of wire coat hanger will do.

Oh right. I see what you mean now. Yes, you want Offset pins. Also, The ones I installed look good, but they aren't what i was expecting. More of a rainbow shimer, then silver. You can get pure silver looking ones, and I may swap mine again soon.

Do it yourself. Do it with your dad, get out there and in 10 minutes he'll see its not worth paying anywhere near £90. Honestly. You cant break anything doing this job, you wont damage the stereo if you plug it in the wrong port.

Sorry, Ciaran, how do you mean 'Offset'???

No they arent on. I wished Id taken a pic last night and then another one tonight to show the difference. Unfortunately, I forgot!!!

Thanks Wozza.

How to Fit new Headlamp Bulbs (Non-Xenon) First things first… disregard the handbook, its RUBBISH!!! Right, you will need the following… Correct Bulbs… Dipped Beam H7’s, High Beam H1’s, Indictors PY21W’s Some really long thin fingers and a lot of patience!!! I personally have used... Osram Silverstar 55W H7 Headlamp Bulbs, Phillips Vision Plus H1 Headlamp Bulbs, Osram Diadem PY21W Indicator Bulbs DO NOT TOUCH THE BULBS WITH YOUR BARE HANDS!!! I started with Dipped Beams, then High Beams and finally, Indicators. Most of the pics you see relate to the Drivers Side Headlamp. On my car, this was by far the easiest side to work on, after removing the coolant bottle cover. This is done by pressing the centre part of the clip in, then removing the whole clip. The clip is reusable, just pop the centre bit out, push the main bit back through the hole and then push the centre back in. On the passenger side, the Airbox and Battery covers did get in the way a little, but I did not remove them. 1. To start with, pull off all of the rubber covers. There are 4 in total, 1 over each of the Dipped Beam Lamps and High Beam Lamps. http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/337/p1010005gy1.jpg In this picture, the Dipped Beam Lamp is on the right, closest to the radiator, with the Full Beam Lamp being on the left 2. Starting with the Dipped Beam Lamps, the book says to disconnect the lamp, undo release the spring clip (at the top of the fitting) and then remove the lamp. I found this nigh on impossible given the space to work in. Also, the connector is on really tightly. I therefore released the top of the spring clip as normal, then pinched the bottom together and totally removed it. REMEMBER which way it goes in, the ‘triangular’ protrusions face the front of the car, to push the bulb into the holder. You can see in the picture below (this is actually taken during re-fitting) that the spring clip pivots from top to bottom, and that the bottom of the wire clip is held in place on both sides. By squeezing the clip together at the bottom, it can just be pulled out. Removing the clip now allows you to pull the bulb out and then, using both hands, disconnect the connector from the bulb. http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9517/p1010007fi3.jpg At this point, I’d like to say DO NOT drop anything inside the light fitting. I did and it is difficult to retrieve. I ended up using one of those telescopic ‘pen’ magnets. 3. To replace the lamp, first of all replace the spring clip. Again, this is done by squeezing the bottom together and refitting into the lamp housing (triangular protrusions upwards so they pivot forwards). Now, insert the new bulb. The bulb must be inserted so that the flat side of the metal part faces upwards. While you are holding the bulb in place, squat down by the headlamp lens and see that it is sitting square in the hole and that the bulb head is inside the light reflector. If this is ok, while still holding the lamp in place with one hand, use the other hand to flip the spring clip back up and fix it into place. Finally push the connector back on. The procedure is exactly the same for the passenger side lamp, but the access is slightly more awkward. I did the drivers side one first, made all my mistakes and learnt how to do it, then did the passenger side one, which I actually found quite easy having already done the first one. Right, so that’s the difficult ones done!!! 4. Next I did the High Beam Bulbs. These are much easier. There are two connector for these bulbs, a white one and a black one. Only the Black one needs to be disconnected. This pulls off very easily I found (obviously helped by there only being one connection instead of two). Again, there is a spring clip, but this time, just release it and pivot it downwards as it is meant to be. The bulb then just pulls out. 5. The H1 bulbs have two little locating ‘blobs’ on the front, by the glass: http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/6025/p1010011wh6.jpg Because of these, the lamp can only be replaced in a certain position, making it easy to locate in the lamp holder when replacing: http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/4896/p1010010pb2.jpg Again, once the bulb is correctly located and fitted, replace the spring clip and re-connect the connector to the centre pin. Finally, the Indicator bulb. This is very easy. 6. Locate the Indicator bulb holder. Grip the finger grips and twist a quarter towards the centre of the car, then pull out. The whole bulb holder assembly will pull out. Try to remember how these come out, it makes it a whole lot easier to put back in, as the locating lugs will only fit in one way. To remove the bulb from the holder, push down, twist and remove. 7. Re-fit the new bulb and then replace the holder. Below can be seen two pictures showing the holders, the top shows the way to hold to replace on the Passenger side, and below, the way to hold to replace on the drivers side: http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2663/p1010014sm1.jpg http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/4985/p1010015uk7.jpg Replace the bulb holder and turn a quarter turn towards the outside of the car to lock. 8. Finally, replace all rubber caps if you haven’t already done so, and that’s it, your done!!! Here are some pics, haven’t checked them at night yet… http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/4853/p1010004zi0.jpg Old bulbs http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/687/p1010016rs3.jpg Without indicator flashing. http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6001/p1010017cs9.jpg With indicator flashing.

Well, I routed mine to the drawer under the drivers side airvent. Not a difficult job at all. Then made a little holder for it out of resin. You can see it here. Excuse the pictures, they aren't the best in the world. Might give you some ideas though. The pics are about half way down page 2... Click here

My C4 didnt come with the VTR+ badges on the side either. Im not really fussed though, looks better without I think. Well done on the car, and as has been already said... PICTURES!!!

Its quite possible its tappetts. Id check your oil level, it may be low and then change the oil and filter. TBH though, if you are worried get it back to the dealer. All the time it has warrenty, get them to do it. my old Rover 214 used to sound like a tractor when first started. A great engine though once up to temperature, the Citreon engine cant compare in terms of noise and character of the K series. Brilliant engine.

When you picking this car up then???

Does anyone know how much this costs??? I have seen a couple of pics of it and it looks quite good. Just wondered if anyone has it fitted or has bought it???

There will be a definate, noticable difference between 92BHP and 110BHP. After all, its a change of 20BHP, and when you consider you can probably feel a change of about 5BHP, then 20will be obvious. Id love to get mine remapped, but I think its an ECU out job, which means I'll be without a car, plus, there is the warrenty to think about.

I dont find that halogens affect me that much. Obviously fogs and the ones who drive around on full beam blind me, but halogens on a dipped beam are fine.

I dont think it does light up. This has been mentioned before, and everyone seemed to come to the conclusion that it is not illuminated.

Im also not really impressed with the standard lamps. I have just bought a full set of front lamps, Dipped Beam, Full Beam and Indicator lamps. I will takesome piccies before and after fitment to see if it makes a difference. I will also take some piccies of fitting, if I find its difficult. Ive had a look though and it looks quite simple really. Anyway, they should hopefully turn up within the next week.

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/223/threadisuselesswithoutpicsmn6.gif

Decline it, they'll come back with a better offer than that, not that thats bad.

I normally use Shell, but when I last filled my car up on my return home from holiday, I filled up in France from a Total garage, and that petrol seems to make my car run brilliently. Really smooth, puchy etc. I cant explain it. It could possibly just the amount of use its had over the last couple of weeks. I did over 2000 miles in 2 weeks, so its had a fair amount of use!!!

Id start thinking about dragging him through the small claims court.

Surely its not a problem if its a characteristic of its normal operation? The sensor needs to be imersed in oil to a specific level to give a correct reading on the display. The way it operates is by providing a resistance reading .....the resistance is affected by the level of the oil........hence if you park 2 wheels on the pavement or face down hill it will cause the oil to flow away from the sensor and cause it to show low oil level. Additionally if you stall your car, on re starting it will tell you the level is low because you've spread it round the engine. In the event you over fill the engine with oil this too can give a reading on the display that indicates the oil is low.....so if your dipstick is above the maximum mark it doesnt mean you need to add more!!!!!!! Thats interesting, so its a conductivity sensor. Why should it give a low oil level warning if too much oil is in there??? Assume it gives a warning when the level is outside of set upper and lower parameters. Is this correct???

On my car, if I park on a hill where the passenger side is lower then the drivers side, then the oil drains to one side of the sump (Assume, away from the oil level sensor) and the warning comes on. Just park it on level ground, remove the dipstick, check the level and replace. I have found if you dont check the level, the warning will come on everytime the engine is started.

Im getting this too. I use Hidsons Northfleet and when I took it in, they said they 'couldnt recreate the fault'. What Hidsons do you use???