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You dont say what radio or if you have had to change any wirring round to get the new set to work.....however, one thing that can be certain is that connecting the radio has caused a conflict with the data network on the vehicle. Untill you have checked your connections i would recommend you unplug the new set to remove the possibility of damaging the vehicle main computer......might sound a bit extreme but it happens.

The regulator is bolted to the engine between the engine and radiator....it can be recognised by having a sphere attached to it that looks the same as the rear spheres you are changing. The regulator body has a 12mm bolt on it which as the prevoius poster says needs to be loosened by no more than a turn (do not remove the bolt). Start the engine with the bolt loosened and tighten it after about 30 seconds......hopefully that should be bled then.

ECO mode is the state the computer goes into when it can see consumption of battery power but has no indication that the alternator is charging the battery......ECO mode occurs on all the latest citroen models and can occur anything between 30 minutes to 2 minutes without the engine running. Its purpose is to shut off all consumers and thus stop the battery going flat......the computers on the car wont operate unless they have at least 11.5 volts. Its got to be easier to restart the car and wait for eco mode to cut in again (knowing you are flattening the battery) than it is to leave the radio on with the volume down low and come back to a car you cant start!.....how irritatting would that be? So Eco mode.......has nothing to do with being enviromentally friendly......its all to do with being economical with the battery power.

Looking at the age of the vehicle, i would suggest its in your interests to get the grinding noise checked out.....especially if it can be demonstrated. It may even be related to the other problem you experienced.

The vehicle needs 4 wheels fitted with sensors on each corner of the vehicle......if the spare is used on the vehicle and that wheel subsequently placed in the spare it will come up with a fault.....they must be at the correct pressure.....not just look ok! Where tyre pressure sensors are fitted to the vehicle the valve stems are solid, if someone has replaced a sensor with a conventional valve stem it can be recognised by being rubber in appearance and will wobble from side to side if you push it with your thumb.....if any of the tyres have an ordinary valve stem fitted check to see if the spare has the correct fitting. If after that you are certain you have 4 sensors fitted to 4 of the wheels in contact with the road you will need to seek specialist advice as a computer will be required to carry out programming and diagnostic checks

it really needs to be looked at......the last thing you want is the engine trying to fire an injector out of the cylinder head, which if the fixing becomes sufficiently weakened will occur.

Possibly caused by an injector coming loose and allowing unburnt fuel to linger under the bonnet and come in through the heater vents. Recommend a dealer visit to have the injectors removed and new seals fitted, expect costs around £350

might be worth checking to see if the wiring harness is rubbing on the steering column.

Early model XM's suffered with poor fuel pump connections under the LHM tank. in which case the wiring for the pump needs to be cut from the connector and rejoined outside of it.

Have you tried reinitialising the injection ecu using the following procedure: Erase faults Engine cold : Switch on the ignition & Wait 20 seconds Start the engine & Idle the engine until it is hot enough to trigger the cooling fan - make sure air con is off. After cooling fan has activated, Drive the vehicle on light engine load Change through all the gears. Take the foot off the accelerator several times (from 3500 rpm to 1500 rpm) - allow it to decelerate. Switch off the ignition & Wait 1 minute before restarting (7 minutes in the case of the cooling fan running on after ignition off) The reinitialisation procedure is complete Start the initialisation procedure with the engine cold, if the following components have been changed : Proportional oxygen sensor (upstream of the precatalyser) Exhaust gas temperature sensor (upstream of the precatalyser) Exhaust gas temperature sensor (downstream of the precatalyser)

Can you check your personal messages...thanks

£40 labour for an independent.....that sounds steep its only half hours work.

Electrically they are different.

Carefully ;) Seriously, if you look round the mirror glass you should see a couple of bits of wire...about the size of paper clipswith a screwdriver, push them towards each other and towards the rear of the mirror....hopefully it will release......if not and still stuck.......take a trip to your local breakers yard and practice on one there...then play with your own!

well as you have probably deduced by reading other posts there is an internal thread that is part of the handbrake mechanism. If i was you i would remove the caliper and pads again and with the knowledge you now have try winding the piston back whilst applying slight pressure to the piston until it returns fully into the caliper. Having wound the piston back make sure the piston is lined up with the metal locating lug on the brake pad and reassemble. operate the footbrake to bring the pistons out to meet the pads and apply the brakes......do this several times to activate the self adjuster for the handbrake in the caliper piston. Check the brake cable when fitted is released and that the clearance between the bottom adjusting nut and the cable retainer is about 0.5mm.....if not slaken or tighten acordingly. Do not adjust the handbrake on the cable as this will affect the operaion of the brake and may cause the pads/caliper to sieze when hot. Hopefully you wont have done any damage, let us know how you get on

is this link any good?

there isnt a bleed nut on a regulator to depressurise the system.....this vehicle is a C5 not a Xantia. The C5 is depresurised using a diagnostic tool to open the valves within the BHI (pump assy) this in turn returns any fluid under pressure back to the reservoir. Other methods that anyone recommends may cause you to get wet when you undo the pipe.

you dont say which C3 your looking at buying......but i wonder if your getting confused with how it plays mp3s. The standard radio will play mp3's that are recorded onto cd 1st. If you wish to connect an Ipod to the standard radio you may wish to purchase a USB box which will allow control of the ipod through the standard vehicle controls and allow the unit to recharge. See here for info on USB box

check the rear light bulbs are fitted correctly.........brake light filament dangling and touching side light filament?.....current then goes up side light circuit when brakes applied? Check correct bulbs fitted into correct holders.

I would refer you back to this post here I think your wasting your time. Think of it like getting a key cut......while the key is blank it can be cut to any lock it fits......once you have cut the key however, it will only fit the lock it has been cut to work with. So........back to the problem in hand.......you have a second hand remote control, it has been programmed at the factory to work with another reciever fitted to another vehicle.....because of the technology at the time of the ZX it isnt possible to reprogram the remote to work with a different reciever, the only way it would work on your vehicle is if you had purchased the remote control and the reciever. and then fitted them to your vehicle as a matched pair.

Has it got a 2 speed fan......are both speeds working? if the first speed doesnt work it will get 'very' hot before the second speed brings it back down.

overfilling the reservoir will not damage the regulator assy......from what you are describing a seal has failed within the regulator and it will require replacement. take a look here

If someone has tried to break into it your not going to get it under warranty......i doubt very much that the ram has caused it to fail.....however, it is likely that it has been caught by a stone and shattered. Citroens policy against glass is such that a manufacturing defect would have to be proven.....i would suggest that it would be best to present it to your insurance companies preffered glass repairer who should be able to handle a claim for you.

how hot on the gauge does it get as a percentage.....does it bring the overheating light on? Does it feel hot on the top hose? is it forcing any coolant out of the radiator/header tank?

You could try fuse 5 in the under bonnet fuse box........if you PM me a chassis number i'll have check see if anything else on the circuit.........there are various wiring layouts without chassis number cant access the correct diagrem