paul.h

If you have a spare remote key try using that in case there is a problem with its buttons being too sensitive/dirty/something in the case touching the button. You can probably switch off the auto lights if you do not want to use them - your handbook should say how. If you do not have a handbook you can read/copy/print it from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

When I changed from Saabs to Citroens I gained all my weekends back since I found the Citroens to be far more reliable and did not need to spend the time fixing them.

I would be careful of adding anything other than the correct fluid to the power steering, particularly if you have hydractive suspension where the fluid is shared. It may not be compatible with all the components and something designed to stop leaks may do it by causing seals to swell or by bunging up holes.

Thankyou for this. I will link to it in the Common Problems topic. There was a member who had wiper motor problems a while back and was looking at replacing one of the motors so maybe this would have been a fix.

This might be a problem with the locking ecu which might need replacing or the wiring - a dealer could do a diagnostic check to find this. The problem will need to be solved since to pass the MOT the doors must be able to be opened from the inside. First though I would try a battery disconnection/reconnection since this sometimes can clear odd faults and does not cost anything to try. These are from the C3 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic: 11. Sometimes the remote key fob fails to lock or unlock the doors. May be caused by radio interference from such as a mobile phone, but the key will work and after some time the locking returns to normal if you come back to the car. I have not tried to find a solution to this. There is a pinned note about this. One other owner reported replacing the comms 2000 unit which contains the remote receiver. A C3 Picasso 2010 driver's lock was not working on the remote and using the key in the key hole in the side of the door provided the fix. 20. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. There is some info here on buying a C5 plus also look at the C5 Technical Section Common Problems pinned topic for things to check when buying. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20514-c5-buying-guide/ C5 s tend to be reliable but I do not know about the auto box. You really need to make sure everything works before buying, the suspension goes up and down on the switch next to the handbrake and there are no oil leaks from the suspension front and rear struts or the suspension has not dropped before opening the car doors with the remote. You may be best to avoid the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine on the 2001 to 2004 model since it has an exhaust dpf and on higher mileages it needs servicing so will add to its cost if not already done. All diesels from mid 2004 have a dpf. An auto box does not help fuel economy or the amount of car tax.

The standard Citroen warranty is 3 years so it could still be covered.

If the tyre is losing 0.5 bar a week (1 psi a day), then it should be easy to find the leak point. If the tyre valve, then a bit of spit on a finger held over the valve and around its hole in the rim will soon show a leak. Similarly if the wheel is removed and then inspect the tread for anything stuck in such as glass or a nail - again the spit test will give small bubbles to show a leak. Around the tyre/rim - a bit of washing up liquid in water will show a leak by bubbles. If it is none of these then maybe the alloy wheel is porous and immersing it under water will show a leak.

You can read/save/print copies of the Citroen handbook from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

The vacuum pump may have been removed when doing the head gasket so check if this is fitted properly, it is not rattling, if the hoses to it are fastened and not damaged or full of oil and its seal is still in good condition. Normally the vacuum would remain in the servo overnight so for some reason it is leaking air in - you may even hear air being sucked in somewhere with the engine running or just after stopping it to remove the engine noise.

then a guy turned on something in the screen (dont know what it is since its in spanish ). ------------------------------------------------- By this do you mean a diagnostic tool screen or the car screen - if the latter, on Citroens you can usually change the car's language through the radio menu.

This is copied from the C5 Technical Section Common Problems pinned topic: 19. Speedometer stops working. The motor at the back of the speedo can be replaced to fix this - see http://www.citroen-o...ometer-repairs/

From what I have read on here, this could be the radius arm bearings - try a message to coastline, he seems to have missed this post.

Looking at your previous posts, the car is a 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine so it will have an exhaust dpf with eolys fluid as well as a catalyst. How many miles has the car done ? Can you provide the fault codes to help with diagnosing the fault since the anti pollution message on its own just means an engine sensor has detected a fault that could result in high exhaust emissions. This could include a sensor fault or as you suggest a catalyst fault or a dpf fault. On your engine there is also a common fault where the swirl flap actuator plastic ball joint cup breaks - this can be found at the gearbox end of the cylinder head - a new part is about £20. If the dpf eolys fluid has run out you ought to get a low level message and if the dpf has blocked, possibly a diesel filter blocked message. Also check the inlet of the end of the exhaust pipe - is this clean metal or covered in soot - if sooty it could suggest the dpf has been removed or drilled through. If you have a code reader that does live data then you should be able to read the code and if it is a catalyst fault check the inlet and outlet lambda sensors - the inlet one should switch frequently and the outlet one stay steady if the catalyst is ok but if the cat is faulty the outlet one will switch similar to the inlet one.

LDS fluid is about £10 to £14 a litre depending on where it is bought. This is from the C5 Technical Section Common Problems pinned topic 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 5 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594

In the Petrol Diesel & LPG Injection section on here, P0110 is given as P0110 IAT Circuit Malfunction If you still have this fault after clearing the original fault code, then possibly the Lucas MAF you have fitted is not exactly the same as the original part that you would get from a Citroen dealer.

If it is a sensor fault you would think a good diagnostic check would find it when the engine/outside was cold and the fault was happening. I do not know what the official fuel consumption is but your 48-52 and 40 round town seem good for a 150 hp engine with an auto gearbox and such a physically large car. I have found on a motorway if you drop your speed to about 65 from 70 mph the fuel use reduces quite a bit, even more if in the current 20 mile roadwork section at 50 mph on the M60/M62.

Not all C3s have an engine undertray, our previous 2003 one did not and I vaguely remember not having to remove one when I changed the oil on our 2010 1.4 petrol vtr+ vti, but that was last August so I could be wrong. You could check the parts diagrams using your VIN (VIS) for your car to see if one is listed. You will need to register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on the service.citroen site. This is a free service and your VIN is entered top left once logged onto the site. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres It is worth checking the rear coil springs are complete, one of ours broke the top coil off 2 months ago and was only noticed due to the bit on the floor. Both rear springs were replaced free of charge by our Citroen dealer despite there being no warranty remaining on the car. On our 2003 C3 both front springs were similarly replaced when one broke. If you have the vti 95 hp engine keep an eye on the oil level, ours seems to use about 1 litre every 2000 miles - this is the first Citroen we have had that uses oil between services. It was only on about 20000 miles when I noticed this so could be due to the engine design. One of the camshaft sensors also failed on this car but a new one was only about £25. If you have this engine check for an oil leak down the back of it, our car needed the oil pump solenoid replacing when we got it since its seal in the engine block was leaking oil out.

P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input Check the coolant temp sensor on top of the cylinder head - its electrical connector may be loose, the pins corroded, the wiring faulty or the sensor may need replacing. This is based on the sensor giving a resistance that reduces as the temp increases so if the resistance is higher than expected it could be giving the fault. At 10°C the sensor should be about 3800 ohms and at 90°C about 230 ohms. This would not put the fan on since it will be showing a low temperature although 3 bars on the gauge is normal - unless the sensor is faulty at a low temp but then works about right at normal temps. If the air con is on then that runs the engine fan. The car not starting could be related to the temp sensor if it is giving the wrong fuel/air ratio. Is the engine turning over on the starter motor when it does not start ? See also this post for some useful info http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22554-cooling-fan-problems/?do=findComment&comment=83642

Welcome to the forum. On our 2003 C3 1.4 petrol on a couple of occassions the temp jumped to max but I could not find anything wrong. Others have also reported similar. It could be an electrical glitch. First time I stopped the engine and let it cool down. Second time occurred 2 years later and I put the cabin heater on max, opened the windows and carried on at a slower speed and the temp gauge did come down. Later on I replaced the timing belt but also replaced the water pump, the thermostat and anti freeze and it did not happen again. Before this I checked everything including the temperatures using a code reader with live data. The old thermostat when checked opened at the right temperature. On the 1.4 petrol engine there are 2 temp sensors as you have found. The top one does the gauge and the side one is a high temp warning that also puts the gauge to max. Both start the cooling fan. If one sensor is faulty you would not know which it is so both may need replacing. Your fan is working so there should be no need to worry about it. Relevant temperatures are - thermostat starts to open 89°C, full open 101°C - high temperature warning from side sensor 118°C - expansion tank cap pressure 1.4 barg which is equivalent to 126°C steam - engine fan cuts in at 96°C and out at 94°C. At a higher temperature it has a higher speed. The air con also runs the engine fan. If you have a code reader with live data you should check the temperatures at which the thermostat opens and the top radiator hose starts to warm up and then when the engine fan starts/stops. Also check the temperature when the engine is cold and as it warms up to see if they seem normal. On our C3 2 bars on the gauge were about 70°C and 3 bars from about 80 to at least 96°C. Doing this will give you confidence that there is nothing wrong or could point to a faulty thermostat or sensor. Also check the radiator is not blocked with something so the air flow is reduced. Code readers do not cost much, as an example https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html Following is a list of possibilites that can be checked: - sensor fault or the wiring or electrical connector - thermostat not opening fully - radiator blocked internally or externally - anti freeze needs replacing - water pump fault so the coolant is not being circulated - radiator fan not running - coolant level low or air in the system

I am guessing the child lock light is the one to show the front passenger air bag is switched off - if so, this can be switched back on using the key in the switch at the end of the dash seen when the front passenger door is open. For the driver's door lock, check if there is any damage to the wiring between the door and body in the rubber bellows. If not then the door inner trim/card will need removing to access the lock and check its wiring and if the lock actuator is sticking or there is any other problem. Does the dash lock switch work to unlock the driver's door instead of having to lean out of the window to use the key ?

The 1.4 petrol engines are known for oil leaks from the head gasket. The oil way through the gasket has a rubber insert which can perish over time and leak oil out at the front left corner as you look at the engine from the front. It may be wise to replace the timing belt at the same time since it will be removed to replace the gasket and could have been contaminated by the oil leak.

The lds suspension fluid is a slight orange colour. The 2008 on C5 is known for steering rack oil leaks from the steering column input shaft seal and also the pipe to rack O-ring seals close to this so sometimes the 2 leak sources can be mistaken.

Welcome to the forum. I guess from your posts you have done the repairs yourself and not used an insurer recognised bodyshop. As well as the MOT, maybe you could have an inspection carried out somewhere that confirms the repairs are up to standard and the value of the car has been restored. For MOT standards you could have cosmetic damage and the car could be only worth scrap value as far as the insurer knows and maybe you are planning a future claim to get it repaired fully. Many years ago I had a car written off when somebody drove into the back of it since they had not bothered to de-ice their windscreen and could not see where they were going. The insurer paid out the value of the car less scrap value since I agreed with the insurer to keep the car and repair it myself since it only needed a tailgate, rear light, bumper and part of the rear wing. However, the insurer would only insure it for scrap value until it had an MOT test, despite providing photos to show it was repaired - if it had been repaired by a garage or bodyshop and I provided receipts it would not have been a problem.

Good luck with this. Did you check if the mileage ties up with the previous MOT tests, things like rear brake shoes would normally last for around 70k miles, not the 36k miles you mentioned previously.