paul.h

A link to gwyn4500's other post on the steering leak http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22469-new-member-saying-hello-to-all-in-forums/ Please keep in touch as this progresses since this is a new angle on causing steering fluid leaks. It almost sounds unbelievable but from an internet search some people suggest it could cause seal leaks as well as the tank overflowing. However, I do not see how a few cm higher fluid level could increase the pump outlet pressure by more than a few millibar - for this to increase would need the pump inlet pressure to be increased and that is limited by the fluid height plus atmospheric pressure due to the cap vent. According to the French RTA manual for the 2008 on C5 (X7) the pump runs at around 93 bar on the 2.0 hdi, so a few extra millibar would not be noticed. I have moved your topic into a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and can then be difficult to find.

From your previous posts your car is a C5 2.0HD exclusive on 03 plate. This is not a daft question, the outside air intake is at the bottom of the windscreen driver's side under the plastic scuttle. However, you should not spray any cleaners in there since they will be stopped by the pollen filter. Some cleaners suggest they should be set off inside the car with the air flow on recirculation so they are sucked in from above the driver's footwell and then go over the heating matrix and air con matrix and out the cabin vents but again on the C5 the pollen filter will catch the cleaner. I tried this once in a Saab but the spray used simply replaced the wet dog smell with an apple smell and a lot of the mould on the air con matrix was not removed (this is where the smell comes from) but much of the car insides had the spray on it and had to be cleaned. I have found the best way to disinfect the C5 is to remove the pollen filter (accessed from the passenger footwell), vac out any leaves from where the pollen filter is located and then to use a garden spray lance in here to fine spray a cleaner over the air con matrix (evaporator) and then leave it for some time for the cleaner to work/dry before using the blower. Any that runs out is wiped up. The cleaner I use is Dettol surface cleanser anti bacterial (does not contain any bleach) from supermarkets and is about £2 in a spray bottle http://www.tesco.com/groceries/product/details/?id=255282067. I just pour some of it in the garden sprayer which is not used for anything else. I once had a Citroen dealer clean the air con as part of having it regassed and it came back smelling just like the Dettol stuff so maybe they also use it or something similar. An example sprayer http://www.screwfix.com/p/pressure-sprayer-7ltr/51100 If you have not used your cleaner, you could consider taking it back and getting a refund. If you still want to use it you could remove the pollen filter, make up a cover to replace it, put a hole in it and then spray the cleaner through the hole. It may work well enough. Do not use the blower whilst doing this since it will blow air out of the pollen filter opening along with the cleaner. You may find the chemicals used in the spray are a bit nasty and will come out of the vents whilst doing this so you may need to hold your breath/wear protection.

Citroen use different part numbers to the manufacturer ones which are stamped on the parts and are often the better ones to use when searching the internet. You can get the Citroen ones from the parts diagrams which are available as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Then use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. The engine sensors can be found under Mechanical, air and fuel suply, INJ calculator sensor BVM (assuming your car has a manual gearbox - BVA is an automatic one) http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres If you intend to keep the car and do your own maintenance the Haynes C5 workshop manual is worth buying. From this the crank sensor is located on top of the clutch bellhousing and is held by 1 bolt. The camshaft sensor is located in the exhaust camshaft cover - remove the engine cover, disconnect the crankcase breather hose on the rear cylinder head cover to get to the sensor, it is held by 1 bolt.

Thanks for getting back to us, sometimes possible fixes are suggested but we never hear back if they worked.

The Citroen part no. for the MAP sensor is 1920AN if you have a manual throttle body or 457403 if you have a motorised throttle body but you should check this using your VIN. On the citroencarparts.net site they are about £50. Note your car does not have a MAF (mass air flow) sensor and just uses the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The cam sensor is 19208W (£63) and the crank sensor 1920EN (£12) - was 19207N to RPO 09278 and 1920FP from RPO 09279. Again check using your VIN. A crank sensor may not give a fault code but we had a cam sensor fail on a C3 that gave a code but it still ran, possibly since there are 2 cam sensors on it but it ran in limp mode. A code reader with live data should also have freeze frame data when the fault code occurred which may give an indication of the fault cause if not obvious from a fault code. You could also measure the resistance across the crank and cam sensor pins and if open circuit could indicate a fault.

It is always good when a fix only costs a bit of time.

Welcome to the forum. On here P0170 is given as P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1). Often bank 1 means inlet so this could possibly be a problem with the exhaust catalyst inlet lambda sensor. To check it you would need to run the car and see if this sensor is switching using live data. However, I am not sure if a problem with a lambda sensor would prevent the car starting. First thing you need to do though is check if the fuel pump is running - can you hear it in the fuel tank when you switch on the ignition? If this is working and delivering fuel then it could be something such as a faulty crankshaft position sensor that is preventing starting. Haynes does not mention a fuel pressure sensor for the 1.8 petrol. I had a C3 that sufferred a fuel injector failure and that still ran but with a bad misfire and put on the engine management light - so possibly you may not have a fuel injector problem. According to the Haynes manual the MAP sensor is on the front of the inlet manifold and in a photo can be seen without having to remove anything else and Haynes does not say anything else has to be removed to get to it. It is held by a bolt so could be removed and checked for any blockage. I think they are not expensive if you need to replace it. To remove the elbow Haynes says to first remove the flexible section and then insert a screwdriver through an access hole next to where the flexible was fastened so a clamp that holds it to the throttle body can be slackened.

Looking at the procedures there are many bolts to undo to remove the bumper - but not £800 (10 hours) worth of work unless this includes supplying all the electrics and a diagnostic since bumper removal and refitting is listed as 48 minutes. Obviously you will need to check the towbar and bolts for condition before re-using and maybe consider using new bolts. If you do not have the towbar instructions, sometimes these are on the suppliers' web sites so you can get the correct torque values for the bolts. John will probably confirm the following to remove the tourer bumper: Put a soft sheet or cardboard on the floor for the bumper to be lowered on to so the paintwork is not damaged. The rear wing lights need removing. Inside the boot remove the flaps, disconnect the wiring and undo a wing nut to release the light. Possibly the rear wheels need removing according to the procedures but I suspect this is not needed. The wheel arch liner bolts to the bumper need removing and the liner disengaging from the bumper. Undo bolts from inside the boot at the top ends of the bumper. Undo the bolts holding the bumper to the tailgate opening sides. Undo the bolts under the sides of the bumper and the nut under the middle. Undo bolts from the bumper wheel arches. Disconnect an electrical connector at the right side of the bumper if there is one. Unclip the bumper at the top sides and then pull it backwards to remove it. Removing the bumper bottom strip is possible once the bumper is off, 2 C clips at the ends need cutting off and then about 20 clips need undoing along the strip. On refitting the ends need to be riveted/plastic welded where the C clips were.

If you want to look at the Citroen parts diagrams this can be done as a free service on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. You can then use your VIN (VIS) at the top left to find your vehicle. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres From this page you can also see/copy/print the handbooks for Citroens from about 2008 if you do not have one.

I do not know if you have found where it came from since I could not find anything like it on the parts diagrams - possibly it was not from your van but already on the road. Are there any Citroen or Peugeot or PSA markings on it that suggest it is a Citroen part and any part numbers ? However, it vaguely looks like a mudflap.

With a bit of luck, you will be posting the same message in September.

If it was an engine mounting that is worn, the one at the back is most likely to let the engine rock. However, there are heat shields down the back of the engine and along the top of the exhaust. If one of these was a bit loose or had been bent whilst fitting the air con pipes, then they could possibly make the noise you describe. These shields tend to be alloy/aluminium and the bolt holes in them corrode and get larger so they can become loose - on our previous C3 a repair was done using larger penny washers to hold it in place. These can be bought from such as Toolstation and B&Q http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86424?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=b7eUiBxi&pcrid=46334058743&gclid=CN-d8Y2Hv8QCFTHLtAodvG8A6Q

Welcome to the forum. Power steering fluid leaks are a common problem on the 2008 on C5. They seem to be from the steering column input shaft seal but the oil runs down and appears to be from the pipe O-ring seals. The fix for most people is a reconditioned steering rack. See this topic from the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned post: 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 5 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594

If you do wish to check the drain plug is not loose, you need an 8mm square key to fit the drain plug such as this one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-38324-Drain-Plug-Square/dp/B0001K9U2I. The torque setting is 30 Nm so should not be done up too tight or there is a risk of stripping the sump threads.

You can get a complete tailgate harness for about £90 from a dealer. To fit it though the tailgate will need all the trim removing to get to all the connectors.

The microphone could be Citroen part no. 659365 but you should check this using your VIN. It is only about £18 so if you have to pay for a diagnostic check it could be worthwhile replacing the mic first.

If you got the car from a dealer there should be a warranty on it. If so I would take it back. One possibility is it could be the engine sump drain plug which is in the middle of the engine, slightly towards the driver's side and at the back/bottom. You could look under the car and at the bottom of the engine to see it. If it is leaking it may just need a new washer on it - these should be replaced every time the engine oil is changed anyway. To replace the washer will result in the oil draining out so it should be done at the same time as an oil and filter change - on the C3 petrol engine this is every 2 years or 20k miles if sooner. The washer has a rubber insert and is about 70p from a Citroen dealer but usually a lot more from a car accessory shop.

Have you put your finger in a drip on the floor to see if it is oil or water ? The steering on a C3 uses an electric motor on the rack so there should not be any oil to leak. Approximately below the driver's seat is a drain for the air con matrix which lets condensation drip on to the floor, so if it is clear water then it could be this. If it is slightly greasy water with a slight colour, it could be anti freeze. An oil leak will likely be black or if the engine oil is not discoloured a yellow colour. If it is brake fluid it will be a yellow/straw colour. Each of these have their own distinct smell to help decide what it is.

If you are in the RAC/AA it could be worthwhile asking them for advice. However, Direct Line should be responsible for the car being repaired back to the condition it was before the accident - it is not your fault their preferred (low cost to them) repairer is not up to the job. Have a look at your policy for the terms/conditions since it may detail what to do if you are not happy with the repairs. As well as trying for them to take the car off you/provide another as in their adverts but if this is not a possibility see if it could be taken to a Citroen dealer with their own bodyshop to be sorted. A few years ago we had some repairs to our C4 following a crash and Directs Line's preferred repairer did the work but when we got it back it was not right - bits not painted, the bonnet could not be closed, bits missing. I wrote a list of these and the car was taken back and sorted. They said the car was put back together by a different person to the one who took it apart . I took prints from the Citroen parts diagrams to show them what was missing. Following this experience I think I would insist on any future repairs being done by our Citroen dealer.

John just beat me to a reply but since I had already typed most of it, here it is. This is from the Haynes manual for the 2.0 hdi DOHC engine (138 bhp): The glow plug relay is in the electrical box at the gearbox side of the engine compartment. Remove the fasteners and the box lid. Undo 2 torx bolts and move the ECM to one side without removing its plugs. Undo a torx bolt holding the relay unit to the box, lift it out and undo the electrical plug. In the photo it looks quite big, probably about 1 inch square. The glow plugs are at the back of the engine and the egr valve and cooler have to be first released and moved to one side but without having to disconnect the cooler hoses or drain the coolant. The air filter housing may also need removing. The plug threads should be smeared with copper grease and tightened to 22 Nm.

Well done, sounds as if the handbook is just about right on how to do it but not written with enough instructions to be able to follow it.

The latest guide no longer has any maintenance information - when and what needs doing. All it has is the oil type, cleaning and warranty information. It says the servicing plan specific to your vehicle should be given with a new vehicle or can be printed from the Citroen website from your MyCitroen personal space (depending on country) or can be supplied by a Citroen dealer. However, having just registered on the MyCitroen site, all it gives on servicing is the mileage and date for the next service http://www.mycitroen.co.uk/MyCitroen/

On our 2004 C5 it involved something like holding in the button on the end of the indicator stalk until a message is given auto lights are activated. The ignition may need to be on and possibly the engine running. However, in the handbook for a 2008 C8 it gives: 　 Automatic lighting of headlamps Sidelamps and dipped beams come on automatically in conditions of poor ambient light or when the wipers are in continuous operation. They go out as soon as light is sufficient again or after the wipers have stopped. An activation/deactivation of this function is possible in the menu "Person alisation-Configuration" of the "Main Menu". Note: Activation of this function is immediate, whereas deactivation requires the ignition to be switched off. Never obstuct the brightness sensor, which is located at the bottom of the windscreen, on the inside.

The C8 may be similar to a C5 which is as follows: On a C5 the multi function display with the date,etc. is removed by first removing the plastic surround - prise up its lower edge with a blunt flat bladed tool and then pull it towards you, remove 2 torx screws to release the display and the bulbs can be removed from the back of the display. The C5 has 3 bulbs but the Haynes manual does not give the bulb type.

When you checked the voltage did you wait for the bsi to shut down again - if not it tends to give a lower voltage. If the charger is still letting the voltage drop by 0.5 volts over 3 weeks I am not sure it has done enough and if you leave it for 3 months the battery may not charge up again. I am sure I have read if they drop below about 10 volts they can not be recovered.