paul.h

Welcome to the forum.

The car will not go out of economy mode until the engine is running, so no matter how much you charge the battery this will not change. If the battery voltage is low it may not work the suspension so it is worth checking its voltage and if needed give it a charge. If the voltage is ok then possibly just disconnecting/reconnecting it may let the suspension pump run. Do not do this too quickly though since this could result in odd electrical problems - there is a procedure in the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned post that I have used without problems and is copied below. Jacking up the car without first raising the suspension to max height can result in suspension system problems so is not recommended and somewhere in the handbook it says to raise the suspension first - since you can not do this without the battery then possibly keeping the battery disconnected may help avoid problems whilst you finish the engine repairs. 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

The anti pollution system fault message and the engine mangement light coming on, only mean one of the sensors has detected a fault that could affect the exhaust emissions. It could be a sensor fault or a mechanical fault. Often this will put the engine in limp mode so the emissions are not too bad but this will reduce performance. If the performance has improved then there must have been a fault already there. You can buy a code reader that also gives some engine sensor live data for a lot less than a garage will charge for a diagnostic check, for example https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html I think the code reader 16 pin socket is in the compartment between the front seats.

In the Petrol Diesel and LPG Injection section on here, P0171 is listed as P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean (Bank 1) So again this could be the exhaust inlet lambda sensor. If your code reader does live data, see if the lambda sensors are switching. The inlet one readings should switch frequently (every second or so) and the outlet one should stay steady provided the catalyst is ok. Also look at the temperature sensors, the engine coolant should be the outside temp when the engine is cold but about 95°C once up to temp. The inlet air one should be the outside temp and once the engine is hot should be a bit higher.

Welcome to the forum. I can not really help except possibly suggest the parts are not the same or the wiring has not been done correctly. If the seat belt simply operates an on/off switch then perhaps you could link the wires together. Do the air bags now work correctly and the air bag light go off ?

The service.citroen site has handbooks that you can read/copy/print but for the Relay the earliest one is 2/2008. Some of it may be relevant. Your Citroen dealer may also be able to get one. http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ What is the problem with the heater blower ? In the 2008 manual it gives fuses in the driver's pillar fusebox for heating fans.

Welcome to the forum.

Normally the engine management light (ECU light) will stay on until the engine starts and then once its sensors show the engine is ok, it will go off in a few seconds. So this is not indicating a fault. Only if it does not go out once the engine is running does it indicate a fault. Did you check the maxi fuses - in the Haynes manual wiring diagrams it shows maxi fuse MF7 provides power to the starter but it also provides power to the rear brakes lights so you could see if these work when the ignition switch is on to check the fuse.

You must have C5s on your mind, being in the C8 section I would have thought it is a C8.

Services these days seem to just be oil/filter change with possibly the air/fuel/pollen filter changes plus any software updates and then a list of checks which as John points out are mostly covered by the MOT - so maybe 2 hours labour but with the parts can be about £250. If the brake fluid needs changing and the brakes cleaning, these are all extras. If they have to remove a pollen filter to say it needs attention, then surely it is easy to put a new one in ? When our 2010 C3 was due for its second service it was not under warranty so I did it following the list in the Warranty guide which included spark plugs and needing front discs/pads replacement, brake fluid change, rear brakes cleaned, air con disinfected, engine oil/filter, air/pollen filters. A dealer wanted around £500 for this without the rear brakes and air con. Diy using Citroen parts, the cost was about £260 - quite a big saving for a couple of days diy.

In the Haynes manual page 2F-10, there is a crankshaft/oil pump drive sprocket photo 11.5a which confirms what you have written but the keys look to overlap the pulleys.

Welcome to the forum. Since the engine management light has been on there will be a fault code stored which can be read by a code reader to find out what is wrong. The anti pollution warning comes on when the eml comes on and just means there is a fault that can affect the exhaust emissions. Often when this happens the car is put in limp mode which limits the peformance so the emissions are not too bad. It is probably just a sensor that needs replacing or maybe a loose connection or wiring damage and the fault code should indicate which one.

I am not sure how much of the console you need to remove but the gear lever gaiter is supposed to unclip at its base and the surround it goes in should also unclip around its edges. You might also need to unclip/remove the glovebox in front of the gear lever. The handbrake gaiter can be unclipped/removed at its base. If all the centre console needs removing then the radio and air con controls need removing, remove 4 bolts at the front inside of the console (seen when the other parts have gone) and 2 bolts at the rear sides after removing blanking covers, unclip a stiffener behind the gear lever, unfasten the diagnostic socket in the arm rest box, lift up the back end of the console and then pull it to the back of the car, disconnect the rear 12v socket connector.

I have not tried this particular one but have a Gendan GCR25 which is similar in its functions and that works well but Gendan appear to have replaced it with the one in the link. I have used it on our 2010 C3 to find a cam sensor fault that put on the engine management light and also used it to check the temperatures/cooling system was ok. If you want more than the engine sensors that can put on the eml then something like a Lexia is needed but I have not tried one. However, for about £40 it is a bargain if you have the eml on and then it will read the codes and clear them, as well as give the freeze frame live data at the time of the fault which may/or may not help. It will also give some engine sensor live data such as temperatures, O2 sensors so you can see if these are ok, possibly fuel pressure and a few others depending on the car. I also have an old Sealey VS863 which is specific to Citroens but can not be updated since Sealey no longer support it (despite current sellers on ebay suggesting otherwise), so whilst the EOBD part is still ok, the Citroen specific engines and codes are only up to 2009 - this is ok for our 2007 C5 though and it also covers the abs and air bags. So from this experience I would not bother getting something expensive that is specific to one make of car since it quickly becomes out of date. I have used this one a few times and helped a neighbour whose Peugeot 206 eml was on and that showed the exhaust cat was not working from the O2 sensor readings.

Welcome to the forum. I guess you have looked at the Citroen parts diagrams to get the part nos. against the car VIN. It looks as if the 697614 key is the outer one which would do the crankshaft outer pulley and the inner one for the timing belt pulley is 697606. From the citroencarparts.net site, 697614 are £5.30 for 2 and 697606 are £24.80 for 10. Hopefully your Citroen dealer will sell you a single key for around £2.70, despite them having to buy a full pack. The parts diagrams also give a size of 13x6-7 for the 06 one and 18,5x6-6 for the 14 one which may help you. So it would appear you need the 697614 part. The petrol engines seem to be the ones that only have one key and that can be either of the above parts depending on the engine type.

Welcome to the forum. I am not trying to put you off this forum but there are not many C2 owners on here. We will always try to help when needed but if you do an internet search there is another UK forum specific to the C2 that may be of more use if you are only interested in the C2.

Since the engine management light has been on, the car is likely to be in limp mode, or at least when the light is on. The fault code given will be stored until it is deleted and also there will be freeze frame data when the fault was given with values from the engine sensors. Limp mode will limit the performance. Unless there is any obvious wiring/connector problem found then the best option will be to have the fault code read since this will usually indicate the fault and lead to a fix. Any other method is likely to involve replacing parts in the hope of finding a faulty one without spending too much money, which I am guessing you have already tried but without success. If you buy a code reader it is better to get one that does live data but diesel EOBD was not required until 2004, so some low cost readers will not work on your car. Gendan do low cost readers but you need to check if they work on your car. As an example https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

If it is not a moving part, I suspect there could be a gap that opens up a bit when the engine is hot and lets air through. It must be between the throttle plate and engine or connected to this area so is at max vacuum when on tickover. - Maybe the egr valve does not fully seat, if there is a valve. - You could try a spray around all the possible joints that could be leaking to see if the noise changes. - Also see if using the brakes changes the noise since the servo system is under vacuum. - Do the engine revs change when the oil filler/dipstick are cracked open ? - A clean of the throttle plate/body using a carb cleaner or a rag damp with white spirit/turps to remove any carbon build up may help if it is the sound of air going through it. When the engine is warm the throttle will close more on tickover so the plate/body gap will reduce.

Welcome to the forum. Not sure if I can help but some questions anyway. - has the engine management light come on at all - if so have the fault codes been read ? - have you looked for any wiring damage around the engine or loose connectors ? - have you tried a battery disconnection/reconnection since this sometimes can help with odd electrical problems ? If you do this do not be too quick to do it. The following is copied from the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

This does not seem at all normal, unless as you suggest it is something done by BT. Possibly the central locking ecu is faulty or needs a reboot or maybe the remote key fob lock button is sticking down and constantly sending a lock signal - you could try unlocking and then taking the fob away from the van so it is out of range to test this. I would try disconnecting the van battery and then reconnecting since this may help and will not cost anything to try. Do not be too quick to do this since it could give problems - the following is copied from the C5 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic: 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

'but when the van is locking itself' I do not understand this, please explain how this happens. Only time on our cars when the car self locks without being driven, is if you unlock the doors with the remote fob but do not then open a door within 30 seconds, it will then lock itself again automatically.

A wire coat hanger can be bent to make 2 U shaped tools. Or use 4 thin screwdrivers, just need something to go in the holes to hold the clips that retain the radio whilst the radio is pulled out.

I need to make this a bit clearer and hopefully there will be a few extra replies: - your 2003 Berlingo van has front driver and passenger doors and doors at the back, all with remote locks but the driver's door lock does not work from the remote key fob. - sometimes the remote key fob does not work at all. - sometimes you need to press the remote fob lock button before the remote fob unlock button so it will unlock the doors. - to unlock the back doors when the front ones are already unlocked, the remote fob has to be used to lock the doors first and then used to unlock the doors. How are you unlocking the driver's door if the remote fob does not work on it ? Does the driver's door lock work if the dash lock button is used (if there is one) ? If you open the passenger door to get out of the van, does the back door still need to be locked and then unlocked with the remote fob ? My initial thoughts are - there may be a wiring fault to the driver's door lock or the lock itself may have seized - you could check the wiring between the door and door pillar in case any have broken. - possibly the remote fob case is worn or damaged or dirty inside so that when you press the buttons on it the switches inside are not working. - the remote fob battery may need replacing. I think on Citroen cars the tailgate doors auto lock once the car is moving but then unlock when you stop and open the driver's door. If the driver's door lock is not working then maybe this stops the back doors unlocking. On some cars the door unlocking can be set so that they do not all unlock together. Typically this would be to unlock only the driver's door on one press of the remote fob unlock button and then to need a second press of the button to unlock the others. On our C4 this is set up through the radio MENU but a software update altered how the doors unlocked - when set to auto lock when driving, they used to all unlock when a front door was opened, but after the update the back and tailgate doors do not unlock at the same time and need the remote fob to unlock the doors. Also to lock the doors, they all have to be first unlocked on the remote fob if the back ones are still locked.

We have a diesel C5 and a C4. The glow plug light on these comes on only for a few seconds in winter, then as it gets warmer if you blink you can miss the light. Now it is not coming on so you may need to see what happens at the end of the year when it gets frosty again. What is the problem with the central locking ?

Picking up on seefive's post, you could go to a dealer and try the clutch pedal in a new car in the showroom and see if it is any different.