paul.h

I have not removed/cleaned a dpf but possibly if you are paying somebody, then the harder it is then the more you would have to pay.

I had to replace a drop link on a C3 anti roll bar and that gave a knocking noise noticeable when going over bumps at low speed - and yes, an easy low cost job. If it is some grit on the car, have a look at the top of the shock absorbers/coil springs in case some is trapped there and get somebody to turn the steering whilst you have a look/listen. If wetting the subframe bushes stops the noise then maybe there is some wear or again some grit.

If you look at this C8 exhaust picture it shows the dpf section. You should be able to just remove this part and some people seem to water jet them to remove the ash. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=citroen+c8+exhaust&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&imgil=V2T768I3TcEieM%253A%253B-D8x34W3oEjtHM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.mrexhaust.co.uk%25252Fexhausts%25252Fcitroen%25252Fc8%25252F20-hdi-turbo-diesel-02_408.htm&source=iu&pf=m&fir=V2T768I3TcEieM%253A%252C-D8x34W3oEjtHM%252C_&usg=__OROGCxr0fZABsjmklzpxhu0QJXA%3D&biw=1208&bih=814&ved=0CF4Qyjc&ei=vcl0VOzkB7GM7AaG54HwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=V2T768I3TcEieM%253A%3B-D8x34W3oEjtHM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mrexhaust.co.uk%252Fillustrations%252Fbosal%252F408.gif%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.mrexhaust.co.uk%252Fexhausts%252Fcitroen%252Fc8%252F20-hdi-turbo-diesel-02_408.htm%3B600%3B221

Gregorius, when you do the oil/filter changes on your 1.6 hdi, make sure you use the correct oil recomended by Citroen in the Maintenance and Warranty handbook. It is probably Total INEO ECS 5w-30 and can be bought from a Citroen dealer for about £40 for 5 litres or for a bit less over the internet. I would also get the oil filter from Citroen and the drain plug washer since they cost very little there.

Yes, the mark 3 1.6 hdi has the same turbo problems (and other makes of car using the same engine such as Fords).

Some things I forgot when replacing the brake fluid. It helps to extract the old brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir as much as possible and then top up with new fluid. This limits how much has to be bled out of a brake to remove all the old fluid. A syringe or Mityvac can be used to do this. At least 1 litre of new fluid will be needed. Do not let the reservoir fluid level go down too low once starting to bleed. This will avoid the risk of air entering the master cylinder and then possibly the need to use diagnostic equipment to bleed the abs. The fluid take off for the clutch is usually at a higher level than for the brakes. If there is no air to remove, then it really does not matter in which order the brakes are bled. I prefer to start with the front one nearest the master cylinder and use this to pull all the old fluid out of the reservoir until it changes colour to the fresh fluid. Then the next front one and then the back. If doing it on the floor and with the suspension on max height, to do the front ones it helps access to point the relevant wheel out. If you have alloys, it is possible to do the back ones through the wheel spokes but put a rag/tissue around the bleed screw so fluid does not run down and on to the wheel. The clutch also needs to be bled and I have found the easiest way is using the Mityvac to suck the fluid through since pedal pushing is not that effective but it may also be possible to use a syringe or possibly just by gravity. There are various bleed screw designs used on the slave cylinder - some need it to be opened several turns for the fluid to flow, some are quarter turn ones that can be done by hand and on our latest C3 it is a stupid system that involves pulling out a clip so the slave cylinder supply pipe is pulled slightly out and then fluid pours out, but possibly not flushing through the cylinder.

There are pinned posts in the Problems and Fixes section on doing the front and rear brakes that are worth reading. New brake pads take maybe about 100 miles to bed in before the brakes are back to normal so care needs to be taken for the first few days of use. It is probably best not to replace the front and rear pads at the same time so at least one end of the car will have good brakes. Before you replace the pads check that the discs are not worn to their minimum thickness. For the 2.2 hdi - front new 28 mm, min 26 mm and rear new 14 mm, min 12 mm. When pushing/turning the front or rear brake pistons in, I now usually open the bleed screws to let out the fluid. The bleed screw is kept at a high point so air will not get back in, then opened slightly when starting to push the piston back in by turning if needed or just using a clamp, and then at the last push the screw is tightened so air does not get in. I use a bleed hose on the screw in to a container to catch the fluid and you can see any air/dirt that comes out. Before doing this it is best to clean up the pistons/rubber seal/caliper. I have given up with the 2 person bleeding method, causes too many arguments and there is also a risk of the master cylinder seals being reversed on any wear ridge - a common problem when we had an Astra. I have also used the Easybleed pressure bleeding system but that is too much bother and now use a Mityvac hand pump that sucks the fluid out of the bleed screws. This can pull air around the bleed screw threads so is not ideal but is the easiest one person method. The standard Mityvac container is a bit small at about 100 ml and needs frequent emptying so I made a larger one from a 300 ml plastic container with a screw top that could hold vacuum and fastened a couple of bleed screws to the lid for clear bleed hoses - 1 to the pump and 1 to the caliper, fastened with small fuel hose clips. I marked it at 50 ml levels on the outside. The vacuum test for the container was to screw the top on and put it in the freezer - if it holds vacuum it will squeeze in a bit as the air cools and contracts, which it did. When replacing the rear calipers, try not to get any air in to the pipework. I have read that pushing the brake pedal down and clamping it there will stop fluid running out of the open end and should stop air getting in (until the pedal is released) but I have not tried this and you may just be best to hold the pipe end up, connect to the new caliper and then let fluid run in to it with the bleed screw at a high point and open so fluid runs in and pushes out any air by gravity. Fit the caliper and bleed it before doing the other side. This way there should be no need to use diagnostic equipment to bleed air out of the abs system. I had to remove one rear caliper to drill out a bolt and vaguely remember plugging the end of the pipe and putting it in a plastic bag with a tie wrap to seal it so air did not get in - and once refitted used the Mityvac and that was enough to remove the air.

If the rear door does not open, I am not sure you need to cut into the body work - this is copied from the Common Problems pinned post and I think was from coastline taxis: 14. Rear door will not open from the inside and outside. This has not happened to our C5s but it is a common problem. To fix: remove the door card, it is awkward with the door shut but can be done once removed, follow the rod to the door lock and remove the white plastic cover now try to look into the door and you will see the insides of the lock use a screwdriver and push the lever down on the inside of the lock and the door will open replace the lock with a different one.

You may find some earth points at the bottom of the pillars in the front footwells - Haynes may say where they are. You can get a meter for around £6 that is good enough for checking voltage and resistance (for continuity checks) such as this from Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Test+Equipment/sd3348/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867

Was this a Citroen garage who said it was the subframe and what part of the subframe did they say is making the noise ? Did they offer a solution ?

I think the DS3 is possibly one of the best looking cars around, even Top Gear seemed to like it. Which engine does your car have ? I am not sure if you are asking for any advice on a chip or not in this topic but in a few days I will move it to the DS3 section.

Welcome to the forum. An internet search on P1161 suggests it may be a problem with a 4 pin wiring connector in the passenger compartment from the accelerator pedal to the throttle body that looks like the one on the pedal and is used on right hand drive cars. The suggestion is to remove the connector and solder the wires. Whether or not this is the cause of the fault code I do not know, but if you can find the connector it is worth checking the pins are clean and it is not loose as well as at the pedal and throttle body ends. Failing that it may be the throttle body - but I would clean this out with carb cleaner first to remove any build up of carbon in the body and plate which could cause sticking and tickover problems. A search on P2101 has come up with the same answer. If your car is left hand drive (just noticed you are in Sweden) then check the wiring connectors at the pedal and throttle body.

You have probably seen the car by now, but anyway, have a look at the C5 Technical section pinned topic on Common Problems. Make sure the dpf has not been removed or drilled through and generally make sure everything works. It is always better to look at a car in daylight when checking the bodywork, so if not sure about the car, go back in daylight.

Before doing the strut top bearings, have you checked other parts of the suspension ? Knocking going over small bumps could be the anti roll bar drop links, or other options include the anti roll bar bushes, track rod ends, the steering rack bracket bushes, any ball joints. I had a knocking on a C3 which was the drop link at one side and was an advisory at the MOT. I also had to replace a strut top bearing on it after the front coil springs were replaced but one of the bearings was not fitted correctly - this was a bit noisy until I replaced it but I can not remember if it was a knocking noise. It may help to get the Citroen service box from such as ebay as 3 dvds which you install on a pc. It has all the Citroen procedures and parts diagrams and will also help with the clutch change. From these it looks as if you remove a panel on the lower end of the dash and some soundproofing to access the top of the strut, it may help to slightly slacken the top nut here, raise the van and remove the relevant wheel, use axle stands, undo 4 bolts (190 Nm) clamping the bottom of the strut, undo the 3 bolts (50 Nm) at the top of the strut and then remove it. Then the coil spring will need to be compressed with coil spring compressors so you can remove the top nut (80 Nm), bearing and other bits.

If the motor is stiff to turn then probably it will need replacing. I have read on here of people replacing the resistor pack and then the fan would work for a while but the resistor would not last long again. In the end replacing the fan as well as the resistor pack was needed. To check the part number you can register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Then use your VIN (VIS) at the top left to select your car. You can get an idea of the price from a dealer on the citroencarparts.net site by putting the part no. in the search box. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres http://www.citroencarparts.net/

Welcome to the forum

I would not put the cover on if the paintwork is not clean. Any dirt may get moved about by the cover and cause scratches. If the car is wet and it freezes, the cover may stick to the car until it warms up/melts any ice.

Welcome to the forum. The air con noise, if it is coming from the right hand end of the engine, will be the air con compressor clutch pulling in and is perfectly normal for all cars with air con. If you park the car, lift the bonnet and then switch on the air con with the engine and cabin fan running, you will hear the noise and should be able to notice that it comes from the driver's end of the engine. Also you may notice the noise cuts in and out whilst the air con is running as the compressor starts/stops as part of the air con control system. You should also notice the engine fan will be doing the same or just run continually whilst the air con is on. To help prevent mould build up and the air con becoming smelly, I usually switch off the air con but leave the fan running, about 1 mile from the end of a journey to allow the evaporator matrix (cooling radiator behind the dash) to dry out since it becomes wet with condensation during use. If it does become smelly it can be cleaned - a dealer will do this or you can buy purpose designed sprays but Dettol surface cleaner (non bleach type) finely sprayed in to the cabin air intake with the fan on after removing the pollen filter, then left to dry, works well. I am not sure about the gear change knocking noise being normal though, perhaps you should get the dealer to demonstrate it on another car and if it does not do it then get them to look at your car whilst still under warranty.

It should be 6351HH. It is about £80 from a Citroen dealer. On cars up to RPO 11800 the original part no. was 6351EY but has also been replaced by 6351HH. This is also the same part as used on the 5 door C4 hatchback including the current model, so gives a few more options for sourcing a used part. I could not find any on ebay and just a google search on 6351HH only came back with used parts not much different in cost to a new one. You could try searching for a C4 or a C5 that is being broken and then contact the scrap dealer to see if the light is available. I have moved the post in to a subsection since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find. They also do not count to your number of posts which is why it only looks as if you have made 3 posts so far.

Welcome to the forum. Have a look at the C5 section. There is a pinned post in the Technical Section on Common Problems to look for and there are also a couple of pinned posts on buying the 2008 on model in the Questions about the C5 section. If it is the 2008 on model you can also read/print/save copies of the car handbook from the service.citroen site, select language, then handbook pack and then the car http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Whichever model, at about 70k miles the exhaust diesel particulate filter (dpf) will be due for the eolys fluid topping up and the dpf cleaning or possibly replacing. You need to allow a few £100 for this since the topping up needs diagnostic equipment to tell the car it has been topped up, otherwise there will be messages saying the level is low. Make sure the dpf has not been removed/drilled through since this would cause the car to fail the MOT and the insurance to be invalid.

I have just checked the car weights in the handbooks and the sales brochures and there is a difference. The handbooks, including the one with our C4, all have the mass in service as about 1350 kg and the sales brochures as 1440 kg, even old ones from 2010 with the 110 bhp engine. Our car registration document V5C has the mass in service as 1440 kg. So they can not all be right. If the weight of your caravan is borderline for towing, it may pay to check the car on a weighbridge.

Before jacking the car up it says somewhere in the handbook to raise the suspension to max height and this should avoid problems with the hydractive suspension. Also if you are going to go under the car make sure you use axle stands since if a height sensor is knocked the suspension can quickly drop to only a few inches above the ground. Is there any unusual wear on the tyres which could indicate a tracking or worn joint/bush problem ? You can also check the wheel bolts and drive shaft nut are tight.

The 110 was replaced by the 115, so Citroen must have tweaked it a bit to get more power. The C4 is one of the better cars we have had and makes a good motorway car being comfy and economical, giving around 60 mpg on long motorway runs or a bit more depending on the wind direction. We have not used it to pull a caravan but it is not that heavy. From the handbooks for cars to 31/8/2014 for the 110 bhp 1.6 hdi (115 not listed) it gives about 1350 kg kerb weight inc 75 kg for the driver (mass in service), so you would be limited to a caravan about 1100 kg although its towing limit is 1300 kg or a bit more if the car is not fully loaded - but this depends on the gearbox.

Welcome to the forum. You will probably find most used cars around a year old for sale are ex rental and ones privately owned are likely to be kept for a few years. Main thing is to check the car over, note anything you are not happy about and get it in writing on the sales paperwork so it is sorted as part of the deal. Your warranty is likely to be the remainder of the original 3 year Citroen warranty. Which model/engine does the car have ? It might not have been serviced yet since the 1.6 hdi interval is 12500 miles and used to be 2 years if sooner but may now be 1 year. Petrol engines may be 20000 miles or 2 years. So I would insist the car has a service if not recently done. We have a 2011 1.6 hdi 110 bhp C4 and that drives well, I do not notice any unusual noises but it did have a vibration/rattle which turned out to be the engine air intake pipe and is a common problem which needs a tie wrap to stop it. Gear changes seem smooth also but it may depend on your existing car for a comparison. The handbook gives the kerb weights and towing weights and you can read/print/save a copy of it on the service.citroen site - select your language, then handbook pack and then the car http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

The original poster has not been back since making their first post so no point in adding to this topic.