paul.h

Is your car the 2001 to 2004 mark 1 model or the 2004 to 2008 mark 2 facelift one ? Our 2007 C5 estate does not have a fuse in that position but the G36 to 40 ones are used for the towbar connector (36) and the electric/heated seats (37-40) if it had them. These fuses take a direct supply from the battery via a maxi fuse in the engine fuse box. If you have a voltmeter, you can check for 12 volts at these fuses to see if the maxi fuse is working. Maxi fuse MF6 (80 amp) is the one that feeds these G fuses and this is the same in the mark 1 and mark 2 models. The maxi fuses are located below the top layer of fuses in the engine fuse box and are numbered from 1 to 8 from the left when looking from the front of the car. In the RTA book for the mark 1 C5 it labels MF6 as 80 amp, boitier 12 fusibles habitacle - so it covers the 12 G fuses. For the mark 2 C5 it labels MF6 as 80 amp, sieges chauffants et/ou electriques - so it covers the seat heating/electrics. I have not had to replace a maxi fuse so I am not sure how to get to them.

Welcome to the forum. Have you checked if the lights work with the engine running or just after stopping the engine, since if the car is in economy mode all the interior lights do not work, as well as the radio ? If they still do not work when not in economy mode, had the fuse you changed failed ? Did you get the fuse number from your handbook, since in the one with our 2007 C5 it has the glovebox fuse F7 (5 amp) as being for the interior lamps and there is not a fuse F30 listed (or any C fuses). In the RTA manual for the 2001 to 2004 C5 it also lists fuse F7 for the interior lamps as well as the 12v sockets but is a 20 amp fuse.

I am not sure about this so hopefully others may also offer advice. The ticking noise may just be the stepper motor adjusting the position of the throttle plate to control the idle speed. You had previously stated the throttle plate and body is clean without any carbon build up, so there may be nothing wrong with this but the rough idle may be caused by something else.

Something is not right. When I have ever checked a battery on any car on idle, the voltage has been about 14.3 volts but that is without the lights or other things switched on. You could check the alternator connection, the battery terminals, earth points and engine earth point are all clean and the cables in good condition and that the alternator drive belt is in good condition and not slipping (from the Haynes manual, if it has the manual adjuster there should be 5 mm free play at the bottom run between the crank pulley and air con compressor). Then consider if the alternator needs replacing. You can get its internal parts but they can cost as much as a replacement alternator. It may also be possible somebody has replaced the alternator in the past and not put the right one on - a member had this on a C5 recently where a lower amp one was supplied than needed.

It might not be a RT4 since the Magneti Marelli label has the following numbers on it: RT3 X3-N3 e2 03 06046 18/09/07 503551001207 CD1301-1 X380CZK97 96645761YW N3 CE0681 X 354149010654820 Under the front plastic cover there are 2 labels: OPERATEUR No. 26 12/04/2007 08:26.13 and 5X30UKJ97 I lot:2 18/09/2007 554550422205 11:30 Under the radio there is another label: *X380CZK97* I also noticed slotted in the side of the radio is what appears to be a lithium battery with these numbers on its label, so if it starts to lose its memory then this would be a good bet to replace: 3CR17335HE-R 9V 554551001302 F734A1347 2507H 31 Anyone thinking of removing the mark 2 C5 radio, it is held in by a screw at each end, located at the bottom of a small hole on the front and needs a long T9 torx bit. The screws only need to be loosened, they do not come out. Then use the bit in each hole to pull out the radio by levering to one side in the hole - do not use a screwdriver down the side of the plastic front since this may cause damage, I have seen one for sale on ebay that has a few bits broken off the side of the front. This PRO141 torx bit set for £5.99 from Machine Mart works well https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro141-8pce-torx-key-set There is a RT3 X3-N3 on ebay for £220 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C5-RADIO-SAT-NAV-SATELLITE-NAVIGATION-DRIVE-RT3-X3-N3-/201210886480

Looking at a photo from our 2004 2.2 hdi (yours is 2001) there is a cylindrical sensor on the cylinder head side of the filter box with an orange electrical connector and 2 black hoses - 1 looks to go to the vacuum pump (where you have the split) and the other to the actuator on the air doser valve which directs the air from the turbo through the intercooler. You need to sort out the split in the hose since it can give all sorts of running problems if it leaks and reduces the vacuum to the sensors, such as a fault code for an egr valve. The parts diagrams call it an electro valve part no. 1628LQ and the RTA manual covering the 2.2 hdi it calls the sensor 'electrovannes de commande des doseurs d'air chaud et d'air froid'. So it look as if it controls the doser valve to cool the air from the turbo.

I have just tried the Citroen 6574EX part no. in the citroencarparts.net site and it comes back as £2694.07 new, so ones on ebay for about £200 do not seem too bad. The software cd 6574PK is £28.74. To get the radio label info I will need to pull it out later. It looks as if member A_Taylor may be scrapping his car which is a 1.6 hdi VTX so it will likely have the same radio as our 2.2 hdi VTX. He is expecting only a few £100 for his car so may be open to an offer for the radio. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22043-engine-supplier-needed-for-c5/?do=findComment&comment=81302 If you can get his car VIN you could check the Citroen part no.

The parts diagrams show a retaining pin that looks as if it goes in a hole in the middle of the glass to hold it to the lifting mechanism. So maybe it has come out again. The pin part no. is 922751. On the citroencarparts.net site they are £8.50 for a pack of 10 - there are only 2 on the car though.

The radio Citroen part no. is 6574EX and they call it a GSM receiver . In the car characteristics it is listed as a RT4 audio/telephone system + colour Nav. There is also a software cd part no. 6574PK but I do not have anything like this.

It is an indication of a problem. It could be damaged wiring between the body and door or a problem with the wiper motor. Our C3 would do this and when the hatch door complete with wiper and wiring was replaced the problem went. I checked the wiring and it seemed ok and when checked with a meter it did not indicate any breaks in it, so I suspect it was a problem with the wiper motor. As it gets worse you may find the wiper takes a long time to stop and also when unlocking the doors it may move to the normal parked position. I also tried switch cleaner in the wiper switch but this did not help.

Possibly the car has adapted to your driving style. You could try a battery disconnection or thrashing it for a few days to see if it adapts to a different style. I sometimes notice a car seems to accelerate a bit quicker after a service, so maybe the garage does something. Servicing possibilites could include the fuel filter needing replacing on a diesel or the air filter needing replacing.

Thankyou for this. Google did a reasonable translation. Something I read in the posts was that in sports mode, the knock is not as bad, so something for people to try.

I am finding it hard to visualize what is happening. Possibly not all the parts are fitted or not in the correct order. You could look at the Citroen parts diagrams as a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Then use your VIN (VIS) at the top left to find your car. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres

Welcome to the forum.

What do you think of the Clark impact wrench ?

Thinking about the rear pads cover retaining bolt which contacts the alloy caliper, there have been cases where the alloy on the caliper has gone/corroded away or maybe been broken off due to overtightening. I use copper grease here on the bolt/caliper holes to help prevent corrosion and I guess you will have done something similar. If you find the rear pads now knock when first applying the brakes since they are now free to move, a shim is now listed on the parts diagrams that clips in to the pad spring. I tried this on our last C5 and it worked. The part no. and cost is on the Common Problems pinned topic.

In Watchdog on BBC1 the last 2 weeks they have shown Fiat's efforts to reduce emissions on the Fiat 500. The model introduced in April does not go up hills, it does not have enough power. Quite clever really, if you watch your fuel economy you see it gets worse as you go up hills, so by not going up hills your economy will be better. Fiat have blamed drivers but since sales have stopped, they now admit it is a design fault and next year there will be a software upgrade.

If the passenger air bag disabled light comes back on, you could check that its electrical connector is not loose and that its pins are clean and not bent. I vaguely remember something like this before so it is worth a check, but do it with the key out of the ignition for maybe 30 minutes so the air bag system is powered down. In the Citroens we have had, the original batteries seem to be Varta ones. Hopefully the new battery will solve the problems. In a recent Car Mechanics magazine where a Ford was not doing anything when the accelerator was pressed, a suggestion was that a low battery voltage could be the cause but I do not know if this would apply to a Citroen.

If the temperature sensors are giving wrong information the air/fuel ratio could be wrong and hence a possible reason for the rough idle. The engine coolant temperature sensor has been noted a few times on here as failing (not just on the C3) but it is often found by indicating a high temperature whilst the engine is still cold.

If it is a leaking rear strut, to replace it by a dealer will be about £260 inc parts and labour and takes about 1 hour. DIY probably about £50 less since you will need to buy a sphere removal tool. Do you need an auto though since mpg is not good and the tax is high, plus any problems could be expensive. From a 2007 C5 brochure: - 2.0 petrol auto hatchback - 22.8/44.1/32.8 urban/etra urban/combined mpg, CO2 206 g/km. Tax £285. - 2.0 hdi auto hatchback or estate - 28.2/51.4/39.8 mpg, CO2 189 g/km. Tax £265. - 2.0 hdi manual hatchback or estate - 36.2/56.5/47.1 mpg, CO2 158 g/km. Tax £180. - 2.2 hdi 173 bhp manual hatchback (estate) - 34.9/56.5/46.3 (34.4/55.4/45.6) mpg, CO2 160 (165) g/km. Tax £180.

'The car starts easy with the battery' This does not tie up with the measured voltage, I would have thought it would be slow turning over on the starter motor. Is the voltage being measured on the battery terminals, if not then there is usually a voltage loss through the car or if a door or something has just been opened the car electrics/bsi will be doing things that cause a drop. I find it best to lift the bonnet and wait a few minutes for everything to shut down before checking the voltage. To check the alternator, again measure the voltage on the battery terminals with the engine running and you should get about 14.3 volts if it is ok. If your code reader does live data you could check the engine sensor temperatures. Before starting with a cold engine, the engine should be ambient temp so about 10°C, similarly the air inlet temp (AIT). The engine will then go up to about 96°C when the engine fan will start but the AIT will remain about ambient or a bit higher.

If you are only doing short journeys the battery may benefit with charging up off the car, otherwise I would consider replacing it. The original one can be replaced with one with a much higher Ah capacity and this will help with starting, especially when the outside temperature drops in the winter which lowers the battery voltage. At below 12 volts you are lucky the car started. Low voltage should not cause the MIL to come on but on starting you may get a warning bleep, our 2003 C3 with the same engine used to do that.

I would not put too much hope on not having to clean the calipers again. Our 2004 C5 was less than 2 years old, 16k miles, when we got it and the rear discs had corroded, the pads seized and lots of corrosion on the back of the calipers. Since then I have been doing them every 1 or 2 years on the old C5 and now our 2007 one. Where did you get the new parts from ? I have put links to your 3 posts covering the rear brake calipers and discs replacement / to use loctite or not / brake bleeding in the pinned post in the Problems and Fixes section on Removal of Rear Brake Calipers since they may help others.

Interesting, so what will you be doing when you fit your new calipers and what has been done to the old ones since they will have been removed/cleaned several times previously ? I believe when the C5 first came out the calipers did not have the loctite, so your old calipers may not be the ones with the small holes for the activator addition and the bolts will be easy to remove. I do not think Citroen did a recall on the old calipers either, so they must think they are still ok to use after 13 years. I have found I need to remove/clean up the back of the calipers every 1 or 2 years and to have to remove the loctite each time adds a lot of effort/time and the risk of bolt failure. Or if you just back out the bolts from the suspension arm enough to release the caliper, the loctite remains in place but the bolts are difficult to turn so any torque values are meaningless and doing this I snapped one bolt. Edit. I have seen from your other post that you have used loctite on the new calipers and had loctite on the old ones. Interestingly though, you have used stainless steel bolts for the disc holding screws and for the caliper cover bolts.

Thankyou for getting back to us. It is good to hear a low cost successful fix. If you had to pay for the fault codes reading/deleting, you can get reasonable readers for around £30 to £40 that will also give some useful engine sensor live data such as this one from Gendan http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html