paul.h

This is asking about the 2009 on C3 for which there is not yet a Haynes manual. Also the original poster has not been on the site for over a month so it is likely the job has already been completed.

Hobby Craft probably has something suitable. You could also try clear plastic and use a felt tip pen to colour it - you may have some food packaging that could be used. The digital display may come back on its own.

This is from the Haynes manual section 12.9 (on page 12.10 of the 2002 to 2005 version). If your copy of Haynes is later the page numbers may be different. For your 2003 car, Haynes says to unclip the bevelled plastic surround of the speedo (the photo shows the top being pulled out first), then undo 3 screws which hold the speedo panel and remove it, then undo the electrical connectors. It says to disconnect the battery first but that may not be necessary provided the key is kept out of the ignition until the speedo has been refitted.

You may as well make sure the replacement tailgate has the glass on it - this was the case when I replaced the tailgate on our 2003 C3 with one from a scrapyard. From memory the glass is bonded on so would need to be removed similar to a windscreen and if you need to pay somebody to do this it could easily double the total cost. Our tailgate was only £50 in the right colour complete with all the fittings - important to include the wiper motor since this is riveted on so not so easy to replace. If you buy from such as ebay, it is best to view the tailgate before handing over the cash to check for damage.

Thanks for the reply, if you have time, let us know how you get on next week.

Welcome to the forum. It looks as if the rear seat one piece base is held by 3 bolts at the front below the cushion to the car, at each end and in the middle. The base does not look as if it will lift up to increase rear luggage space though. Torque setting 25 Nm. Each back rest is held by 4 bolts to the floor 30 Nm setting. To remove the existing seats you are probably best placed by looking at your own car but it looks as if the seat bases are tilted so the strut can be removed and then put back down so the front bolts can be removed and then the bases lifted out.

Welcome to the forum. Obviously make sure the auto works since a problem with this could make it uneconomic to repair. On a 10 year old car there should be checks for bodywork damage and corrosion although Citroens do not seem to rust, so if rusty there may be a reason such as a bad repair. If a 1.4 petrol check the cylinder head for oil leaks at the driver's end since the head gasket oil way can leak out. Check the suspension coil springs are ok since they have a tendancy to break. Check the front seats for loss of foam from the bases. Knocks from the front suspension could be anti roll bar drop links need replacing but they do not cost much and are easy to do or possibly the bearings at the top of the struts. The exhaust will likely have been replaced - aftermarket ones may resonate - ours did on tickover and about 2500 rpm which spoilt the car. Check the air con works. The brakes are keen so should stop the car quickly with little pedal pressure. On the end of the wiper stalk there may be a button which changes the trip computer screen from miles to mpg, etc - but the early cars did not have this. Make sure the wipers stop correctly.

All it should be, IMHO, is simply 1 - "where are you?" - tap in "Home" or a Post Code 2 - "where do you want to go?" - tap in a Post Code No need to give where you are since the sat nav knows that already provided it can see the satellites. Where do you want to go - if your home address, it may not be a good idea to give your actual house number in case the car (or a portable sat nav) is stolen - it and its occupants may get there before you. The sat nav on our 2007 C5 seems fairly easy to use, just enter an address by country, town, street (or one nearby if you are just going to that general area or the map is not up to date) and as you type in the letters it comes back with available ones. If you fail to follow the route it suggests on the way, it will calculate the revised way as you go along which takes care of motorway closures, etc.

You can register on the service.citroen site as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. As well as seeing the characteristics of your particular car, the parts diagrams are a free service. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Without registering, you can read/print/save the handbooks - select language and your car.

To get to them you need to move the air ducting and the egr valve at the back of the engine. Following is Citroen's procedure: Remove the engine cover .Remove the battery cover .Disconnect :The battery negative terminal (follow a disconnection/reconnection procedure from the Common Problems post)The air flow meter electrical connectorRemove the air filter including the air flow meter and ducting At the back of the engine remove :The 2 bolts under the egr valve holding itThe nut under the heat exchanger holding it to the engine block2 screws under the ducting - it is not clear what these are holding from the pictureThe fixing screws of the ducting to the heat exchanger and the air distribution boxPull away the assembly of the ducting, heat exchanger and EGR valve.CAUTION : Recover the EGR valve seal. Use a mirror to carry out following.Remove the 4 nuts holding the supply strip to the glow plugs, the supply strip and then the glow plugs RefittingProceed in the reverse order to removal. Glow plug torque setting 10 Nm +/- 2 Nm.

If you do use them and a bulb blows they are expensive at about £40 but it looks as if they can just about be changed without removing the bumper - see this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20984-daytime-running-lights-bulb-replacement-and-led-option/

Unless the engine had just been started, the engine coolant temp is low, about 95°C would be normal and the thermostat should start to open at 83°C according to the RTA manual for the mark 1 2.2 hdi (gives 89°C for the 2.0 hdi). It also gives the engine fan first speed should start at 97°C or if the air con is on. The total fuel additive quantity, if that is the amount left, using a density of about 800 g/litre, is only about 0.2 litres. To get a degrees symbol, I hold down the key board Alt button and then in order the 248 buttons on the right side of the key board. The combination of these number buttons give other shortcuts to symbols.

On the filler cap, try something steel against it and see if a magnet attracts it. Somewhere around the filler neck will be a switch that works when a magnet is near - at least on the mark 1 and 2 C5.

Welcome to the forum. Rather than an exhaust problem, it could be the fuel injector to cylinder head seals that are leaking. Have a look at the injectors for oil/carbon. If this is the problem it is better to sort it soon since if left the injectors may become impossible to remove. You may also detect a chuffing noise as the fumes leak out. I have moved the topic into a subsection since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are hard to find.

Welcome to the forum. Have you removed the DPF and eolys systems ? The MOT test was changed in February this year and if a car is found to have an originally fitted DPF removed then it will fail the MOT. There was an article in the Car Mechanics magazine and they asked insurance companies about cars with a dpf removed and they got a reply that they would not insure such a car. So a car with a dpf removed would fail an MOT, would not therefore be legal to use on the roads and would not have valid insurance. So rather than removing files, it may be better to get the dpf system working.

Judder when setting off could be a clutch problem such as wear or oil on the friction plate. You may be able to see a trace of oil at the bottom of the bell housing which could suggest if there is oil on the clutch plate - if so, as well as the clutch then the crankshaft oil seal should be replaced. The clutch uses a hydraulic master/slave cylinder so there is no adjustment but it may be worthwhile bleeding it in case this was not done when the brake fluid was last changed (should be every 2 years). Other things to check are the engine mountings at each side and at the back. To check if your car has a dmf, you could look on the eurocarparts website and see what is listed for flywheels using your car reg. When replacing a clutch the flywheel is normally checked anyway, whether dmf or single since single ones can also wear badly and give judder.

The mark 1 and 2 fuel tank cap has 2 magnets on opposite sides so it can be fitted either way and still be seen. If 1 magnet is missing (or both) simulated by not fitting the cap, then our C5 gives a message to say the flap is open. Not many months ago I vaguely recall another member reporting getting a blockage warning on a newish low mileage car, but off hand I can not remember what resulted. Also a recent one which then followed by low oil pressure and a fuse box problem http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21517-2008-c5-20-hdi-cut-out-dpf-full-low-oil-pressure/ I would be tempted to mention it to the dealer.

Welcome to the forum. There is also a Picasso forum that is worth joining http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/

Welcome to the forum. It may be best to go to a Citroen dealer for a diagnostic check to see what needs replacing.

If the tracking is adjusted on just one track rod it may also not go straight - should be adjusted equally on both sides. Since having this done I have never let a tyre place do tracking and instead would use a garage. After checking the track rods and if needed the tracking, if you still need to remove the steering wheel to reposition it: first the air bag has to be removed after disconnecting the battery and waiting at least 5 minutes - it is held on by clips in holes at the back of the steering wheel. Mark the steering wheel in relation to the column as a reference and the steering wheel nut (20 Nm) can then be undone and the wheel removed. After reconnecting the air bag, connect the battery but have the car gears in neutral and switch on the ignition from outside the car in case the air bag goes off.

Possibly the rear height sensor is a bit seized and could do with some exercise by raising/lowering the suspension a few times. Check for leaks from the rear suspension struts. Also check the fluid level.

Welcome to the forum. You may be able to dismantle the mirror whilst still on the car (assuming it is a 2010 on model C4). First remove the mirror glass by adjusting it to as far in as possible, then use a tool to prise it from the rear clips, undo the electrical connectors and the glass can be removed. The top coloured cover should just unclip forwards by undoing 2 clips revealed in the top corners with the glass removed. Remove 3 bolts which hold the motor in place so it can be removed. The front bezel (mirror surround) is held by 3 clips and once removed you ought to be able to see the diode light fitting in the base of the mirror and it should unclip. If you wish to remove the complete mirror from the door, the door card has to be removed to get to the nut that holds the mirror.

Welcome to the forum. I guess your new car is a C5.

If the turbo is prone to failure on the 2.2 hdi, it has not yet been mentioned on this forum. The one that does keep appearing is on the 1.6 hdi engines. If it was my car, I would myself check all the wiring on the car for obvious damage. Then if nothing found I would try my Citroen dealer - the others I would leave since they could be a waste of money until you know what is wrong. Where are you located, there are good reports for the dealer located near Chorley and one in Telford - see the section Questions About Citroen The Company.

Crank sensors (and cam sensors if fitted) are used by the ecu so it knows the position of the engine for fueling. To see what is on your engine, you need to provide the engine type.