paul.h

Good to see you have sorted this and at very little cost.

Citroen tend not to have gearbox oil level plugs, instead the oil is drained out and the correct amount is put back in. If you have it drained you could have a look for tiny specks of metal worn off the bearings.

Possibly if the evaporator is leaking, the dye might run down and out of the drain along with the water that condenses on the outside of the evaporator. The drain is usually somewhere under the driver's footwell so it could be checked with the UV light. The cabin air vents could also be checked to see if there are traces of dye. If the evaporator does need replacing it looks as if the dash has to be removed. It is around 8 hours total so expensive on labour if you have to pay somebody to do the work.

If it is the clutch release bearing then if you lightly press the clutch pedal at idle to the biting point and not all the way down, the noise ought to go away or change. At the mileage though I would suspect gearbox bearing wear. I have replaced Saab gearbox bearings at around 150k miles when worn. The whining noise tends to be greater under load as you accelerate. On one the wear was that bad it would jump out of gear. Only way to see which ones are worn is to take the gearbox apart but if you are having to pay somebody then it is going to cost a lot less to fit another used gearbox. Once in bits you can get the bearing numbers off them so they can be bought at a bearing shop. You should check the gearbox oil level - this is not a maintenance item other than just a look for any leaks. If you are not planning on keeping the car for many years it is possible you could live with it. On one of the Saabs I tried this but it got to the point it jumped out of gear frequently and as well as the bearings I also had to replace one of the gears.

I had the message ESP/ASR fault just after starting our 2007 C5 but the battery was down to 12.1 volts since the car had not been used for a few weeks. This was the day after changing the brake fluid and the diesel fuel filter which needed the engine turning over a lot to prime the filter. After charging the battery the message did not come back.

A lot of people would just blank off the egr rather than fit a new one. It may also be possible to clean the existing one, possibly using something like oven cleaner to get rid of the carbon build up. Its purpose is to recycle exhaust gases to reduce the combustion temperature, this reduces the amount of nitrogen oxides in the exhaust.

Fingers crossed the egr will sort it.

I am not 100% sure about this, but I think the indicator noise and other warning noises come from the steering column switch unit. You could try leaving the keys in the ignition and open the driver's door and see if the warning noise is still there.

The RPO is just a way of giving the date of manufacture so the registration date will do. The RPO is also written on the inside cover of the Warranty and Maintenance service book. https://bartebben.com/map/citroen-peugeot-rp-dam-orga-number.html If it is the crankshaft pulley the rubber inserts can break up and give a rattling noise, sometimes mistaken for tappet wear.

What is the RPO number for your car ? This will help find which additive it uses, plus if you know the colour of the eolys tank connectors that will help. The RPO can be found on the door pillar tyre pressure sticker.

I have tried again on our C5 to see if the air con compressor automatically stops when the temperature is set to HIGH and it does not, even if the temperature button is pressed to increase the temperature. However, when not on Auto, if set to LOW and the temperature button is pressed twice to reduce the setting, it automatically starts the compressor. To stop the compressor again I have to go in to the Menu otherwise it stays on.

Hopefully a new MAF will sort it. Some copy ones might not work as well as Citroen ones so something to be aware of. The garage diagnostic will have given values for the air flow and inlet air temperature which you could use to see how bad the old MAF was and then compare it to ones from the new one. If the air box damage is before the air filter and MAF, then I would suspect it would not be a problem so I would not rush to get another yet.

If the timing belt is still the original one and 13 years old, you obviously realise you are risking it breaking and you losing the engine. Citroen replacement is 10 years or a mileage if reached sooner - in our 2007 C5 Maintenance and Warranty book it gives for the Berlingo indirect injection diesel, 80k miles or 48k miles if severe conditions. When it goes for the MOT test, if they knew the belt was well overdue they may not want to test it, they have to rev the engine for the emissions test. The air intakes that are wet with oil (or diesel), are these the inlet manifold ? If so, possibly the valves are not seating and you have low compression. If the tappets are hydraulic then maybe it is something to do with these such as the wrong engine oil.

You could try unplugging the air mass flow meter to see if it runs better in limp mode. You could also try unplugging the egr valve so it can not open. Has the fuel filter been replaced with a new one ? Does the temperature gauge show normal values as a check the coolant temperature sensor is ok ? Was the timing belt replaced when due ? Is the engine oil level ok as a check if it is burning oil due to turbo wear ?

You could also check the lds suspension fluid level. With the suspension at its lowest setting, the level in the tank should be at the bottom of the tank filling neck strainer. When you open the lid there will be a slight venting of air so slacken it gradually. If you ever jack the car up, always raise the suspension to max height first and if the wheels are to be hanging, then the lds tank cap should be slackened before using the jack and not tightened until the wheels are back on the ground - failing to do this might lead to the lds tank splitting. Tyre fitters might not know this. Also do not go under the car without using axle stands since if a height sensor is caught it can quickly lower before you can get out of the way.

I have not done this but it seems the codes on the new injectors need to be put in to the car using suitable diagnostic equipment. The Lexia is the recognised tool for Citroens but others may also work. You may have to visit a dealer for this to be done, at least you will know they have the right equipment but you will need to give them the injector codes to avoid them having to strip the car to read them.

Any work on the suspension hydraulics only seems to need 1 hour labour but the parts can be expensive. You would be best asking your dealer for the likely cost of the various bits but unless sure of which is faulty, it may not be a good idea to buy anything yet. The rear firmness regulator might be part 5277N7 and 2 spheres fasten to this - the part numbers of these vary across the models - 527291 for the estate and 527278 for the saloon. If could also be a rear strut that has an internal leak. Any part numbers should be checked using your VIN. Whether or not it gets worse if not repaired, I do not know. I had a leak on a rear strut and the back would sink only slightly and left it a year before replacing it. It did not get worse but I got fed up of the slight oil drips on the floor.

The colour of the click fit connector on the eolys tank tells you which fluid it uses. It should be green for your car and use Infineum F7995 but your dealer will supply the right fluid. A connector without any colour or white on the older cars uses DPX 42. An older car with a green connector uses Eolys 176 but Infineum F7995 is a replacement. A blue connector uses Eolys powerflex. This topic gives a procedure for adding the fluid. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23305-eolys-tank-filling-c5x7/?hl=%2Beolys+%2Bfluid&do=findComment&comment=86966

You will need to check all the pipes, the fuel injectors and diesel pump.

You can put in as much as you want. I have read on here that for the earlier model C5 if there is fluid in the tank it will continue to be dosed when the low level mesage is given if it is not reset. This may apply to the X7 model C5 and if so you could top it up and then reset it later but you will keep getting the low level message. However, it may need the message removing for the MOT but I am not sure.

Welcome to the forum. I can not remember anyone on this forum mentioning they can refurbish radios. You could try the frenchcar forum. There is also a topic of people on there who are able to help with diagnostics which might help find out what is wrong with your radio. If you go for a used radio from another Citroen it will need coding to your car by a diagnostic so that it works properly.

The parts diagrams can be seen free on-line on service.citroen and the procedures can also be seen on-line but there is a charge. Older versions of them (up to 2013) were available on 3 dvds through ebay as the Citroen service box. To see the online version, register on the service.citroen site as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres you might need to select your language first. An example of the dvd version but it will not cover your engine since that came out after 2012 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-SERVICE-BOX-SEDRE-2012-EPC-TIS-WDS-FULL-VERSION-NEW-/283043341543

Below is Citroen's procedure where they call the moldings tapes and it looks a bit like fitting wall paper. Use a heat gun (hair dryer ?) to warm the mouldings so the glue on the back melts a bit. Remove the moulding. Clean any old adhesive off the door. Position the new moulding top and bottom and use a spreader to smooth it on the door. Then fold over the edges. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 3.19. The rear door lateral tapes Detach - Remove : The rear door lateral tapes (28 front one, 29 rear one) ; Using a heat stripper.4. Re-assembling4.1. The rear door lateral tapes Clean the bonding zone with a degreaser : index "J1".Position : The rear door side adhesive panel (28) (At "s" and "u" - top and bottom).Apply the adhesive tape (28) over the entire length using a felt spreader.With your hands, progressively fold the edge of the adhesive ( as "t"). Clean the bonding zone with a degreaser : index "J1".Position : The rear door side adhesive panel (29) (At "v" and "x" - top and bottom).Apply the adhesive tape (29) over the entire length using a felt spreader.With your hands, progressively fold the edge of the adhesive ( as "w").

In the parts diagrams they are just called 'Moulding' with following part numbers (but check using your VIN) but on the rear doors the front one is called 'Decor strip' and the rear one 'Moulding' Front left door 8666F2 (or 8666FG) Front right door 8666F3 (or 8666FE) Rear left door - decor strip 8666G2 (or 8666FL), moulding 866G0 (or 8666FN) rear right door - decor strip 8666G3 (or 8666FJ), moulding 8666G1 (or 8666FK)

If it is near the driver's footwell and you have been using the air conditioning, then most likely it is water from the air con drain. Put your finger in it and see if it seems like water. Also see if it quickly dries up from the ground - if it was coolant or oil then it would leave a stain. When using the air conditioning you get condensation on the evaporator matrix inside the cabin heater. This water runs off and out of a drain to drip under the car. It is noticed more when it is humid outside.