paul.h

Our 2007 C5 has climate control but I do not use it in auto. I have just checked it and when not in auto, if the temp is set to HI, the compressor still runs all the time if it is set to be activated. I have tried it in Auto and HI but could not really tell if the compressor was switched off - it was 30°C outside though so that may have had an effect. The car handbook does not say if the compressor is stopped in auto if set at HI. If I remember, when it cools down in a few days I will check it again.

This is from the common problems topic. Have a look at all the linked topics within it. There might just be an electrical glitch, the temperature sensor might need replacing, you still need to check everything as though there is an overheating fault though. Does the engine fan come on ? 30. High temperature warnings. This topic by Skyman fixed the problem using a dealer supplied temp sensor after trying a low cost ebay one which did not work http://www.citroen-o...-by-new-sensor/ This occurred on our 2010 C3 1.4 VTI 96 bhp. A check on live data showed the engine coolant temperature was normal yet the high temperature warning was lit and the engine fan was running continually. A visit to the Citroen dealer for a new temperature sensor however brought up that Citroen had just issued a recall for faulty temperature sensors on the EP engines so it would be fixed without cost to ourselves. This is done by replacing the temperature sensor with a new one or as in our case where the temperature sensor is not removeable from the thermostat housing, the housing bleed screw is removed and the temperature sensor is put in its place along with a short wiring loom.

Pleased it is sorted, we have learnt something new, plus you have found a specialist who seems to know their stuff. I will pin this topic and change the title slightly so it does not get lost in the forum.

Maybe there is a glow plug problem but often that gives P1353 fault codes. Fingers crossed it gets sorted tomorrow.

I do not know what car you have, but probably the rubber bit is part of the washer under the nut. The track rod will have a metal taper that goes in the metal arm and is held by the nut. There will not be a rubber bush in the arm. Replacing the spring should not affect the tracking but it might cause the steering to pull to one side if not put on properly or the top bearing/shock absorber are done up with the steering not central.

Rather than unlucky, I would see it as lucky you did find the fan fault. Otherwise you could have been stuck in a queue with the engine overheating to the extent the head gasket failed. Is the air conditioning now working the fan has been sorted ?

Citroen do a repair kit for the valves but there could be Schraeder or Siemens make of valves used. You would need to check if these fit either of them. You need to remove the tyre and then the valve to fit the new parts so could be worth doing this if a new tyre is being fitted. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Peugeot-CITROEN-Tyre-Pressure-Sensor-Valve-Repair-Kit-541205/1316344979

The clutch pedal position switch for the electric handbrake part number seems to be 218922 but this should be checked using your VIN. The Citroen service box procedures do not have anything on how to replace this. I could not find the part on-line so it may be a Citroen only part. Looks as if you will just have to get the part and do your best. In the service box invoicing times it gives 2.8 hours (including bsi removal and knee air bag removal) for replacing a micro switch but I suspect this is not for the electric handbrake one. It also gives 4.8 hours for clutch pedal replacement.

Sounds as if the update has increased the air flow slightly which would help the idle - has the idle speed gone up a bit ? Maybe this is a common problem if there is a software update. Does holding the accelerator pedal down a bit help starting, just in case it is running a bit rich ?

It is a UV dye that is put in with the gas so you will need a UV torch to spot the dye. Our C5 was regassed a few weeks ago but within a couple of weeks was not cooling that well so I took it back. They have checked it and found the condenser at the front is leaking so will be fixed next week. They also said the compressor looks a bit damp but that can wait and any leaks from it would be small compared to the condenser. They said they have replaced a lot of condensers so must be a common failure. This is at our Citroen dealer, they may be more expensive than elsewhere but they always do a good job so I can trust them. To find a leak you would need to use the torch and check all the pipes, all the joints, the condenser (this could be prone to being hit by stones with it being at the front), the compressor, the evaporator but this may not be that easy to check due to its location. Doing the check in a darkened area might help. If you use soapy water it might wash off any dye at a leak point so it may be best not to do this.

The filling procedure I posted was for the C8 2.0 petrol engine. Before I made the special tool I had struggled to get the air out of a C3 and used a vacuum pump to get the air to come out of the bleed points. On our C5 I have only used the tool and it does work well but unlike the C8, it has a bleed point on the pipes from the cabin heater matrix and a small diameter pipe from the thermostat housing which goes back to the expansion tank - this pipe can be disconnected at the tank end and used to part drain the coolant. Hopefully the workshop will sort it out and it will not cost much.

Based on the topic linked in post 4, the valves might be bent. You could remove the spark plugs and look at the top of each piston and see if any damage can be seen. Anything else is going to need a bit of dismantling to see how bad it is. Without checking for damage, you could try a new belt and turn the engine over by hand to see if there is any compression which might indicate if the valves are still ok. How many miles/years is it since the timing belt was last replaced, or is this going to be the first time ? The replacement interval is usually 10 years or a mileage, whichever comes first but this is provided Citroen parts are used. Oil leaks on to the belt will reduce the life of it.

To get the air out Citroen use a tool so the coolant level can be raised to give a bit of pressure in the system. I made something to do the job from a bit of pipe http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24799-coolant-filling-tool-alternative-to-cylinder-4520-t-and-4222-t/ Possibly the temp sensor is in a pocket of air and is not seeing the temperature of the coolant. If you have a code reader with live data you would be able to see what temperature the sensor is giving. There could be something wrong with the new sensor or if a copy part, maybe it is not right. This is the procedure for filling the coolant from the Citroen Service box procedures for the 2.0 16v engine: 1. Recommended tools[1] filling cylinder 4520-T.Filling cylinder adaptor for screw cap 4222-T. 2. Drain and refillCAUTION : Drain the cooling circuit with the engine cold.Remove the degassing tank cap .Uncouple the cooling radiator bottom hose (CONRAD quick connector). 3. Filling and bleeding the systemBefore filling, flush the cooling system with clean water.CAUTION : Check the sealing of the cooling system.Fit the filling cylinder [1] to the filler orifice (expansion tank).CAUTION : Check that the bottom hose is in place on the cooling radiator.Open the radiator bleed screw.Slowly fill the circuit with coolant.Close the bleed screw as the fluid starts to flow out without bubbles.To bleed the heater matrix correctly, the filler cylinder should be filled up to the "1 litre" mark.Start the engine.Maintain engine speed at 1500 to 2000 rpm until the end of the second cooling cycle (starting and stopping of the cooling fan(s)), keeping the filling cylinder full to the 1 litre mark.Run the engine at idle for a few minutes.Stop the engine.Remove the filling cylinder [1].Refit the venting box plug and tighten it to the second notch (expansion tank cap).Top up to the maxi. level (engine cold).------------------------------------------------------------------------- The engine fan may be a 3 speed one with settings slow speed 97°C, mid speed 101°C and high speed 105°C.The thermostat should start to open at 89°C, you can check if the radiator top hose gets hot. Also look at the temperature gauge at the same time which could indicate if the sensor is ok if the gauge is showing a normal temperature as the thermostat opens..

This topic is worth a read if you are thinking of repairing your existing engine. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23157-timing-marks/

The engine code is part of the VIN. You can find this at the bottom left side of the windscreen, on the Warranty and Maintenance book and on the V5C registration document. From the Haynes manual, the 1.1 litre petrol engine is type TU1JP and code HFX. The HFX should be seen within the VIN. If you go for a used engine, make sure it is from a C3 (preferably the same year) since ones for other engines such as the Saxo can have different manifolds. You should also replace the timing belt/pulleys/tensioner/water pump on any used engine since you will not know when it was done. The petrol engines are prone to oil leaks from the timing belt end of the cylinder head so check this so you are not faced with changing the head gasket.

There have been a few reports on here of people changing to the solid flywheel and they do not seem to notice much difference. As an example http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24223-c5-20-hdi-clutch-and-flywheel-replacement/?hl=%2Bdual+%2Bmass+%2Bflywheel&do=findComment&comment=91284

Elsewhere P1443 gives Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve but maybe on the C8 it does not have this meaning. Rather than a bad earth, it might be suggesting a wiring or connector fault or a fault with the pump. Are there any things to suggest your DPF is blocking up due to the eolys fluid not being dosed ? I am not sure what you can do with Diagbox but maybe you could look at live data and see what information you have on the DPF such as regenerations, how blocked it is, the pressure differential across it, amount of eolys fluid calculated in the tank, maybe even test the additive pump.

I had another thought, I do not know how the fuel use is calculated but if it is by the fuel injector opening times, then if one is worn it could let in more fuel than expected. If so, the trip computer could under report fuel use. I had the timing belt/pulleys/water pump replaced on our C5 when 10 years old and everything seemed in good condition, but it had only done 30k miles. In your case at 11 years old and about 100k miles you are taking a gamble that it will not fail. If you can afford to lose the car then that is ok. I could not take this gamble on our car since I need it to tow a caravan and there are not that many cars as good for this use.

It does not seem as if there is anything wrong with your car. I do not know if it is possible, but maybe a Lexia could check the fuel use calculation and adjust it. Newer cars do use a lot less fuel than earlier ones. Our 2015 C4 1.6 hdi manual gearbox is a good example. On long motorway trips at the speed limits it gives about 70 mpg, the previous 2011 C4 with the same engine would give a bit over 60 mpg and a previous 2008 would give over 50 mpg for the same type of trips.

One thing not mentioned is the speed being driven. I have found going much above about 60 mph increases the fuel consumption quite a bit. Is the temperature gauge showing a normal level (about half way) and the engine warming up within a few miles - if not then maybe the thermostat needs replacing. If you have a code reader that does live data you can check the coolant temperature and should find the thermostat opens about 90°C when the radiator top hose will start to get hot and the gauge will be about half way. You have not mentioned if the engine management light has come on so I assume there are no sensor faults bad enough to cause it to go in to limp mode. However, a sensor could still be faulty and giving wrong readings so a diagnostic check may be worth while. Things to check would include the coolant temperature, inlet air temperature, manifold pressure and air flow meter. Faulty glow plugs probably only affect fuel consumption whilst the engine is warming up. You could reset your trip computer after this and see how it compares with official values. The timing belt was due for renewal at 10 years old, has this been done and if so did the fuel consumption change then ? I have never had an automatic gearbox so I am not sure how it affects fuel consumption, but if it has a fault and is not changing up the gears soon enough it could increase fuel use. Changing its oil may help but I am not sure.

You are supposed to fit the bearings and use a special tool to measure for the required spacer thickness. If you message your email address I can send you a pdf of the procedure since you need the pictures as well as the wording to follow it.

This C8 topic mentions a download but I did not understand the bits about virtual machines,etc. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23950-c8-workshop-manual/

I got the service box on a set of 3 dvds through ebay about 5 years ago. The last dvd version was about 2013 and new versions since then are only on-line. The on-line version can be seen by paying on the service.citroen site after registering but you can see just the parts diagrams free. In our family we now have a 2016 Cactus which seems similar to the previous 2010 C3 for brakes, so I will try paying for procedures/torque values so I can give them a clean. Wheel bolts often are 19 mm AF but not Citroen ones. Toolstation sell high tensile bolts up to M12 x 70 mm (£1.34 for 5) which I think will be 19 mm AF and you would then need a couple of nuts to lock together on it or better to weld on for your socket.

The stub axle goes in from inside. Then when the hub nut is tightened it pulls the axle further to the outside.

The service box procedure for replacing the stub axle does not mention the splines but it is inserted after checking the circlip is fitted to its inner end, greasing it with G6 grease, then knock it in with a hammer and bronze drift, then use a G clamp/spacers to tighten/pull it in further. So it is just a tight fit, maybe tapered like a track rod end. The hub nut is done up to 250 Nm so it has to be a tight fit to stop it turning. Removal of the axle is a reverse of this, using the G clamp/spacers to push it out, then the hammer/drift to get it fully out. You could try applying a G clamp to the inner end of the axle with an arrangement to the other side of the suspension arm which gets around the hub or maybe tapping with a heavy hammer but being careful not to damage it. The parts diagrams show the axle has slots cut in at the threaded end and if so, maybe a bar/screwdriver could be used in them to stop it turning. I would think once the nut is tightened the axle will be pulled fully in place.