paul.h

You could check if the air filter is due for replacement and if the brakes are binding. For the brakes, after a run check to see if the wheel hubs are hot or put the suspension on max height and then jack up each wheel in turn and see if they spin freely without any sign of brake binding. If the brakes are binding then they will need cleaning to remove brake dust but also the rear ones will need the corrosion removing between the suspension arm and calipers. There are pinned topics on the brakes to help. I guess you are resetting the fuel trip computer by holding in the button on the end of the wiper stalk, but if not then give it a go before some long trips.

This has some things to check against P0090 https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0090-obd-ii-trouble-code-fuel-pressure-regulator-1-control-circuit-by-spencer-clayton Have you used your Lexia to check any live data, the fuel pressure being an obvious one from what you are saying ? I am not sure, but you may need about 250 bar for it to start. Also look to see if the crank sensor is working by giving a rpm value. This also has a list of things to check http://www.auto-diag.co.uk/diesel-hdi-c4-engine-fault-finding/

I am pleased you have sorted this but I was not expecting what the cause was.

Not sure which engine your car has, but the condenser and a couple of seals could be about £60 to £100. If DIY replacing it you would still need to have it regassed which seems to cost around £60 giving a total around £120 to £160. So the price quoted does not seem too bad. If the air con still has some pressure in it then it would need the gas removing first at the garage, although if there is a leak this is unlikely. A typical place for the leak would be where the pipes connect to the condenser. Replacement and regassing is supposed to take about 2 hours and involves removing the front bumper (to access the radiator fasteners), air filter casing, undoing the turbo air pipes to the doser valve, unfastening the radiator so it can move back, undoing the condenser pipes to the condenser, plugging them to prevent moisture getting in and then removing the condenser.

To remove the glove box bsi fuse board it is not as easy as the earlier C3. On this one the glove box lid needs removing (open the lid, at the bottom are 2 pins that need pushing in to the middle of the lid and removing, it needs unclipping from the ram and then the lid can be removed), the square fuse box cover already mentioned before and the panel at the right end of the dash need prising off, remove a switch top right of the glove box, the glove box then needs removing by undoing some screws top/bottom and right side and then unclipping it. Then to get the fuse board out, after disconnecting the battery, unplug any connectors, unclip it at the bottom then push it up to get it out of the side clips and then pull down and out. I did an internet search on problems on the 82 vti engine and did not find anything, so it looks promising for its reliability.

To remove the glove box bsi fuse board it is not as easy as the earlier C3. On this one the glove box lid needs removing (open the lid, at the bottom are 2 pins that need pushing in to the middle of the lid and removing, it needs unclipping from the ram and then the lid can be removed), the square fuse box cover already mentioned before and the panel at the right end of the dash need prising off, remove a switch top right of the glove box, the glove box then needs removing by undoing some screws top/bottom and right side and then unclipping it. Then to get the fuse board out, after disconnecting the battery, unplug any connectors, unclip it at the bottom then push it up to get it out of the side clips and then pull down and out. I did an internet search on problems on the 82 vti engine and did not find anything, so it looks promising for its reliability.

I saw the fuses topic after I had replied to this one, hence asking here about your new car. I think your car will be an 82 rather than 86 since I could not find any on line. I have put your new car in your signature so you will not need to mention it when posting. The problems on the old 4 cylinder vti engines may not have anything to do with the newer 3 cylinder ones and I can not recall any posts on here with problems.

As you have noticed, coastline has not been on here for some time but you could always try phoning direct at Coast line taxis in South Shields and ask for the workshop. He is not a fan of the 1.6 hdi but if you are giving the car away they may be interested. I would also see what scrap values are since you may get more money that way than trying to sell it. The rear suspension struts are around £150 with up to an hour labour to fit so you would need to take this in to account if selling. A working rear wiper is an essential for the estate, our rear window gets dirty very quickly when it rains, so you also need to allow for the cost of fixing this if selling.

Is it due a fuel filter change ? A code reader with live data would help. It would give you the measured temperatures (coolant, inlet air), rpm and fuel pressure but for much more you would need the Lexia. If you have rpm shown (also on dash) it would indicate if the crank sensor is ok. An example of one that does not cost too much is a Foxwell from Gendan for about £39 https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html .

We had a 2010 1.4 vti 95 hp petrol C3 and to get to the dash fuses you opened the glove box and the square panel then seen at the left side had to be prised off. You can manage this with fingers and a screwdriver is not really needed to lever it off.The code reader port is also behind this panel. If you are thinking of buying this car, beware that the petrol vti engine has some weaknesses (these might not apply to the 3 cylinder one). Ours used oil at about 1 litre about every 2000 miles. The timing chains can need replacing at as low as 50000 miles - ours did but we part exchanged it with the problem at the dealer for a diesel Cactus, not wanting a vti engine again. If it has manual air conditioning, check that the warm air rotary knob works easily, on ours the warm air flap stopped moving easily and we had to replace the complete heater unit. Due to the air con refrigerant it was a dealer job costing over £1000. The car was easy to diy service though.

Pity the gasket had failed but when a car gets old the point always comes when they are not worth repairing. Have you decided what car you will be getting to replace it ?

If it has a dpf it will look similar to this in the front underneath section of the exhaust https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-JUMPER-Bus-Catalytic-converter-Particlefilter-2010-89049km-1731TV/352274532525?hash=item520532c8ad:g:9aQAAOSwjytaeda4 If you have one the part number will depend on your VIN. I do not think the slight variation in IAT is anything to worry about. The value will be used to calculate the air flow to get the fuel flow right. SInce it will work in absolute temperatures in calculations (ie add 273 degrees to the 30 to 40 degrees), a few degrees out would only give a small percentage out in calculated air flow. Have you checked all the wiring to the egr valve/sensors, just in case a fault with it is causing the valve to open when it should be closed ? Is it possible to fit a blanking plate to the egr valve but whilst leaving it in place - whilst not the right way to sort the problem it could be a fix ?

If you have an exhaust particle filter (dpf) then it could be blocked - have a read of this topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22909-c5-hunting/?do=findComment&comment=95329

Thank you for your help with this topic, your experience may benefit a lot of other people.

You could see if the MAF/MAS is giving a false reading by disconnecting it. It would then go to limp mode and if the sensor was faulty then it ought to run a bit better but with limited performance. The eml will come on with a fault code that will need deleting once the sensor is plugged back in. However, you can approximately calculate the air flow. Air density is approx 1 gram per litre, you have a 3 litre engine running at 800 rpm, the turbo will not be doing much at idle, it is a 4 stroke engine so 400 rpm sucking in air = 6.67 revs per second, times 3 litres = 20 litres per second which is approx 20 grams per second. So it would appear with the egr disconnected the MAF is giving the right value. For this to drop to 8 g/s with the egr connected, there must be a lot of exhaust gas being recycled or the engine would not run at such a low flow.

I would do the readings again first thing in the morning and leave the code reader plugged in when you go out to see how the temperatures change as the engine warms up. First thoughts are though the values seem ok although I am not sure about the calc load. I have found the IAT is a bit higher than outside since it is measuring the temperature under the bonnet. You would think the MAF would be similar at the same rpm or maybe with the egr open the MAF value will be less since less fresh air is being sucked in to the engine. https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems/egr-problems this suggests if an egr is causing a poor idle it must be part open or stuck open but it can be tested using diagnostic equipment to actuate the valve - this would need a dealer type tool. P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction - at least you get a correct fault code when the valve is not connected. Chances are the air con needs regassing. I had our C5 done a few weeks ago since it had stopped working and once regassed was ok. It was 4 years since it was last done.

We've had front and rear springs fail on a couple of C3s but fortunately the cars were not too old so Citroen paid for them to be replaced. Usually the spring at each side is replaced to get a matched pair.

I would do what you suggest, drain out 3 litres and then add 3 litres of 100% anti freeze. If it is not the same anti freeze used when the head gasket was changed or not a Citroen recommended anti freeze, then you might want to flush out as much of the old stuff as possible before putting in the new, just in cast the old/new are not compatible.

From the parts diagrams, left and right hand drive cars have different wiper motor part numbers. The following is worth a read: 43. New C5 (X7) front wipers not working properly. Before replacing one of the 2 wiper motors, it may be possible to do a fix to the motor wiring pins - see this topic from c5vtr http://www.citroen-o...x7-wiper-motor/

If the engine was hot when you took the tank cap off then the coolant could boil and cause the water to overflow. There will still be some anti freeze left in from when you changed the thermostat, probably not enough to prevent freezing in winter but most people would do what you have done and just filled up with water for now until any leaks are sorted.

According to the Haynes manual there should be about 7 litres of coolant. If you got 1 litre out and then 4 litres in, it could be the head gasket is leaking. Check the oil level, the oil filler cap inside for mayonnaise, steam from the exhaust, check for any leaks.

This will be related to your other topic of the engine temperature being high. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/25038-thermostat/ The fan should stop some minutes after the engine is switched off and the engine has cooled down a bit. Rather than adding to this topic it will be better if replies are included in your other topic so I will lock this one.

If not already done, check the coolant level is ok. It could be one of the temperature sensors is faulty rather than the thermostat. High temperature (real or just given by one of the temp sensors) will also put the engine fan on and this can continue for a few minutes after the engine is switched off. If you replace the temperature sensors (there are 2) then get Citroen ones since cheap ones might not work properly. Some topics to read http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22554-cooling-fan-problems/?do=findComment&comment=83642 http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22559-p0118-code-on-citroen-c3-2005-14-petrol/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22595-temp-high-temp-warnings-fixed-by-new-sensor/ Thermostat replacement is not difficult but it comes as part of the housing so all of it is replaced. Getting all the air out is not too easy though but it helps if you make a filling funnel to raise the expansion tank level filling height - have a look at this for a diy one http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24799-coolant-filling-tool-alternative-to-cylinder-4520-t-and-4222-t/

Thankyou for posting. Did you need to replace the seals where the pipes join the rack ? This is a common problem on the 2008 on C5 and £180 to fix it seems a bargain, plus I guess doing the tracking unless the company has not had to move the track rod ends. As well as the paint you might consider applying some grease and checking this as a service item. This is from the Common Problems topic and I will add your topic to it. 25. New C5 (mark 3/X7) steering rack oil leaks - at least 8 cases so far. We have 2 members jefflad and Howiec with steering rack leaks that are proving difficult to fix. Where the supply and return pipes join the rack, the seals are leaking fluid. It seems Citroen want to replace the pipes to fix this and that just replacing the O-ring seals does not work. Citroen also do not sell the seals separately. An additional 2 members, Parkesie and johnfing, have found a leak from the steering column shaft input seal on top of the steering rack, which initially was thought to be the pipe seals. This seal also is not available so replacement racks have been fitted. The column shaft has badly rusted so may be the cause of the leak - applying grease could possibly prevent this. See http://www.citroen-o...uid/#entry75684 . See also this topic for info on replacing the rack http://www.citroen-o...ent/#entry81594 There are 2 more cases here and one being caused by corrosion of the rack where the alloy oil pipes connect http://www.citroen-o...-leaking-fluid/ Have a look at this topic from C5greener for another leak point in the piping near the rack http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ This topic from taximan61 for his 2011 C5 (X7) had the leaking rack and pipes repaired in Wakefield. This is the youngest C5 with a leaking rack so it is not just the early ones that leak. http://www.citroen-o...-steering-leak/ The company in Wakefield also recommend replacing the low pressure pipe since it is alloy at the end but is held by a steel clamp which causes corrosion. Another to add to the list from twoseefives http://www.citroen-o...eering-failure/

The sensors involved in getting the air flow right will be the coolant temperature, the inlet air temperature, the air flow meter MAF - this probably also contains the inlet air temperature, the manifold pressure MAP. To check these would need a code reader that gives live data. It is possible these do not give a fault code but could be giving wrong values.