paul.h

If you get a code reader it can be used on any future cars so still worth while investing in one. Also you can help friends with their cars.

Thankyou for posting this, it might help another member with a similar problem on a petrol C8 who has cleaned the egr valve and done other things but still has similar symptoms to yours.

I realise you have cleaned the egr valve but it could be possible the egr valve actuator valve could be faulty. Have a look at this post from pikesrelaybus http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/25035-30-hdi-160psi-with-poor-idle/?do=findComment&comment=95298

The coolant temperature sensor should be in the thermostat housing at the gearbox end of the cylinder head. It could be Citroen part 1338A7 and they do not cost much. On the parts diagrams they are found under Mechanical, Engine, Air and fuel supply, INJ calculator sensor. If you have a code reader that does live data it will give you the temperature the sensor is saying so you could check it without replacing it. Before starting the engine first thing it ought to be the outside temperature of about 15°C and once the engine is warmed up it should be around 90 to 96°C. The air flow meter will also have a temperature measurement and that should also be around 15°C before first starting and then go up to 30 to 40°C as the engine compartment gets hot - possibly part 19204G. You could also disconnect the coolant temp sensor and that should put the car in limp mode, put the engine management light on with a fault code, but it might start/run better in limp mode suggesting the sensor is faulty. It is not a good idea to run it for long in limp mode since the exhaust catalyst might suffer. An example of a code reader (£39) that does some engine live data https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html

Looking in the Haynes manual, for the filter using a 22 mm socket to undo the lid, when putting it back the seal should be lubricated with clean fuel and then the lid tightened by 90 degrees clockwise. For the filter using a 27 mm socket to undo the lid, it says to lubricate the seal and then tighten until the filter head touches the stop. On our C5 the filter is built in to the case so all of it is replaced but this costs a lot.

Just a thought, changes to the MOT came into play last month that mean the exhaust particulate filter (DPF) needs to be in place and working. So as well as the filter, the eolys fluid needs to be injected. Maybe some scroat has previously had them removed from their car and now needs to put them back for the MOT. If your car still works, I would take it to your Citroen dealer to check and if the parts are expensive you may need to make an insurance claim. If it does not work, if you are in the AA/RAC/etc then they should recover it to your dealer. I copied the following from a previous topic by John Douglas: To post a picture click "More reply Options". When the new screen comes up go to the bottom left. Click where it says Browse. You then need to find your picture file. When you do, click on it. When it comes into the box, click "Open". Then below "Browse", click "Attach this file." If your file is larger than 1.95Gb you'll have to shrink it first. Click Add Reply.

In the UK a litre of Total LDS is only about £10 and I have only had to use some after doing work on the suspension. For the sake of maybe a £2 saving I would not even entertain using anything different with the risk of it not being compatible with the seals. I think LDS stands for something like liquid suspension direction but to compare different makes you would need to look at the specifications of them all and make sure they meet the relevant Citroen specification.

The MOT testers manual can be seen on-line and for the one applying from 20/5/2018 it says the smoke levels are tested using a meter but also visibly. A failure will result if the dpf looks to have been tampered with or welded up and the owner can not give a good reason. The diesel emissions test seems a bit brutal with lots of engine revving and making sure it is up to temperature. The procedure is in section 8.2.2 https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/Section-8-Nuisance.html#section_8.2 If you can only smell the soot and not see it then your car is probably ok, provided the dpf is still there and working.

Part 18 is the oil level sensor and oil temperature sensor combined. You could check the wiring and connector first before thinking about replacement. You might just want to live with the fault though if the part is expensive and needs replacing.

There is some more info here, copied from this similar topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21097-exhaust-catalysts-and-particulate-filters-on-diesels-mot-changes/?do=findComment&comment=95261 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some details on the May 2018 MOT changes for diesels and exhaust smoke tests. The car will be smoke tested to its original design or default values if a value is not given on its weight plate https://www.gov.uk/g...emission-limits The car will fail if there is any smoke from the exhaust and also fail if there is any sign of a DPF being tampered with. Beware if buying a diesel car that has not yet passed the MOT after 20th May 2018 since it might not pass later if the DPF has been removed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It was on the BBC news recently about the MOT certificate changes which will have 3 levels of warnings. Serious ones will say the car is dangerous and should not be driven so will fail the MOT, intermediate ones which will pass but should be fixed and minor ones.

You seem to have checked things I could think of but you can also see if the air filter is clean. If it is an injector, then maybe there was some dirt in the pump and that has blocked an injector.

As well as the usual fuses, there are maxi fuses which are not normally listed. Do a search to find where they are, I have tried but our internet is not working well. Looking on the internet against that fault code and separately against the fault description does not come up with anything so if you cannot find anything obvious like a fuse or a disconnected sensor, then you may have to involve a Citroen dealer or specialist. Some things on octane adjust pin https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer/WnJXnIIa-sg

What code reader are you using ? On here and most other sites, the fault code definition is P1390 Octane Adjust Pin Out Of Self Test Range. I do not know what this means though. Have you deleted the code and is this what still comes back ? Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the alternator, if not then maybe a fuse has blown if live wires touched something. You can check if the key is being recognised by the imobliser by leaving it in the ignition and opening the driver's door. If recognised then you ought to get a warning, if not then maybe the key needs initialising to the car.

It is a French equivalent of a Haynes manual. All in French though but still useful with diagrams and photos. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-Depuis-2008/dp/2726873758

Good to see it was not the dpf. At least replacing the fuel filter is a regular service item so to fix the problem has effectively not cost anything. I am not sure but frequency of the fuel filter replacement is about every 40k miles or possibly 4 years if sooner, with annual draining of water from it. Early C5 models replacement may be every 2 years or 24k miles

All the towbars I've bought have been supplied in primer but then needed painting before putting on the car. Probably whoever put the one on your car did not bother painting it. I have always used black smoothrite which seems to last long enough.

P1336 Crank / Cam Sensor Range / Performance P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1) You should clear the fault codes and see what comes back, just in case the codes are old ones that have not been dleted previously. It could be the crank shaft or a cam shaft sensor fault or something else. You might be able to use a meter to check the resistance across the sensor pins but I do not know what values to expect. If your code reader does live data have a look at the lambda sensor values - inlet should be switching around 1.0 and the outlet one lower but steady - if not then the one with the wrong value could be faulty and if the outlet one is the same as the inlet then the catalyst may need replacing. We had a cam sensor fail on a C3 25. Camshaft position sensor failure - 2010 C3, 1.4 VTI petrol. This happened on our C3, 15k miles. The engine management light came on, anti pollution message, went in to limp mode so the performance was poor. Fault codes were read as P0341, 0342, 0343 camshaft position sensor A bank 1 or single sensor range, low, high. Both the inlet and exhaust sensors were replaced as I thought if one has failed the other may not be too far behind. On checking, the inlet one gave a resistance measurement between all of the 3 pins and the new and exhaust only did on 2 pins. £47 for 2 sensors, they come with new O-ring seals.

This is good news. Where did you get the pipe/fittings from and did you have to put any flares on the pipe like you do on brake pipes ? Was there any obvious cause of the pipe leaking.

Some details on the May 2018 MOT changes for diesels and exhaust smoke tests. The car will be smoke tested to its original design or default values if a value is not given on its weight plate https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-changes-from-may-2018-guidance-for-mot-testers/diesel-vehicle-emission-limits The car will fail if there is any smoke from the exhaust and also fail if there is any sign of a DPF being tampered with. Beware if buying a diesel car that has not yet passed the MOT after 20th May 2018 since it might not pass later if the DPF has been removed.

Have you put another exhaust back box on or put your old one back ? One option might have been to keep the Polmo one and then cut the intermediate pipe and then fit the Citroen sleeve, if it would have the same effect as extending the intermediate pipe. You can get universal brackets to replace the Citroen silencer box hangers when they rust through but not from Citroen. I am not too keen on aftermarket exhausts apart from being a lot cheaper than Citroen ones. I fit a eurocarparts Klarius one to a C3 saving about £200 but then found it resonated at normal road speeds around 2000 to 3000 rpm which spoilt the car.

I wonder if it is possible to get a longer pipe and route it a different way so all the things do not need removing. Maybe a Citroen specialist would help.

It must be a big job since in the Citroen service box it gives 6 hours for the time to replace the rear intermediate return pipe. It does not give a procedure though.

Your Maintenance and Warranty book will give you the correct oil to use but it is probably Total INEOS ECS 5w30. You can get 5 litres for around £25 from Nielsen of Swansea and delivery is in a couple of days. I would buy the oil filter and drain plug washer from Citroen to make sure you get the right one, plus the washer will be less than £1 but a lot more from other shops. The oil amount should be 5.25 litres with the filter change but you may find 5 litres will be enough since the min to max on the dipstick is 2 litres. When filling up though put in about 4 litres, let it settle and then keep putting in a bit more to get the level right to avoid the risk of overfilling. Using a clean funnel when adding the oil helps prevent spilling it over the engine. If you have hydractive suspension it helps access if it is raised to max. To get to the sump plug you will need to remove the engine undershield and it might need a socket or square or hex bit to undo it so best to check before removing the oil filter, its torque setting might be 35 Nm. If you do not want to bother checking first, you could always get a new one from your dealer and then you will know what to use - or ask to look at one when buying the filter and drain plug washer. The filter cover will need a large socket (27 mm) and torque wrench for when doing it back up, the torque is marked on the cover and is usually 25 Nm. A new rubber seal for the cover will come with the filter and a bit of oil on it will help when tightening the cover. Note where the old seal is located in the cover top groove before removing it. With these filters I have found it makes less mess to replace it before draining the sump, use a bowl underneath on the floor to catch the oil that runs out as it is undone and have a lot of rags around it to help catch the drips. Once the new filter is in place, then move the bowl under the sump plug, undo it and let the oil drain out. Use the new washer on the drain plug when putting it back. If the bowl is on a large bit of cardboard, it helps keep the mess off the drive.

Good to see you have managed to fix your car and thankyou for getting back to us. Sounds as if the garage you have found is worth while using again if you have any future problems and it would likely be cheaper than using the friend.

have you checked the drop links as a cause of the knocking noise ? https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38086 There is also a topic on the C5 X7 suspension knocking when going over speed bumps but nothing wrong could be found. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21724-c5-hydractive-3-suspension-issue/?hl=%2Bspeed+%2Bbump&do=findComment&comment=79621 I have moved this topic in to the C5 Technical subforum since ones outside of a subforum do not show after a couple of days and are then difficult to find.