paul.h

What did you do to undo the drain plug and was there a copper washer on it ?

Welcome to the forum. If it is just the buckle it is held by just one bolt plus an electrical connector under the seat to undo - however, to get to the bolt it may need the seat removing. The buckle is available on its own but there are a few different part numbers for the different colours and sides, unless a later model or 3 door one which have only one part number 8973PT (example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C4-Belt-Buckle-8973PT-Brand-New-/321919956102 ) and both sides are the same. Before buying a replacement you should check for the correct part number using your car VIN. You could look to see if something has dropped in to the buckle which is stopping it working. If the seat needs removing, before disconnecting the electrical connectors underneath the seat, the air bag system needs to be deactivated. According to the Haynes workshop manual this is done by disconnecting the battery, waiting at least 5 minutes, then disconnecting the air bag ecu connector after removing the centre console. The seat floor bolts are then removed, the head rest removed and then the seat plastic covers removed to access the electrical connectors before the seat can be removed. However, it might be possible to just undo the bolts holding the seat to the floor and tilting the seat a bit to get to the buckle bolt - however, I have not tried this so it may not be possible,

Do you have the air conditioning on since that can make a whistling noise where the pressure of the refrigerant drops in to the evaporator ?

Possibly the wiring is damaged where it goes between the door pillar and driver's door if the first time it happened when that door was opened. The wiring can also break between the body and tailgate door. You could also easily pull out the radio and have a look behind it for any wiring damage. On the C5 when the battery is flat and I try to start it, the lights and wipers will come on, so this happening on your car could just be a sign of a big voltage drop as something caused the fuse to blow. Have you looked in the handbook to see what fuse 4 protects ?

The steering wheel switches will be the horn, the wipers, lights and the radio ones on the end of the wiper stalk. Does the fuse blow when you use any of these or just go at random, possibly from a wiring problem ?

The Haynes manual suggests the dash fuse box (bsi) fuse 4, 20 amp, supplies the steering wheel switches, the clock, the display, radio, automatic transmission. However, you should look in your handbook as already suggested since Haynes sometimes gets it wrong and cars are changed over the model years. Had you been having problems with any of these ?

I do not know if the parts are the same across the 3 makes but an ebay search on C8 airbag ecu suggests common parts. On the Citroen parts diagrams there are 4 different ones. From rpo number 10377 (this is on the tyre pressure sticker on a door pillar and in the inside cover of your service stamp book) it is 6546H0 for one to be configured and 6546H1 if configured to your VIN. Up to this rpo (cars without can bus) one to be configured is 654674 and one already configured is 654688. You could search against these. RPO equates to a production date of 7/4/2005 if you can not find it on your car.

A replacement air bag ecu might need configuring to tell it what systems the car has - air bags, pretensioners - if the other car was different. When fitting a replacement ecu there is a deactivation/activation procedure to avoid the possibility of the air bags going off with you in the car. Before disconnecting the battery you need to switch off the ignition, remove the key, open the door or bonnet (whichever, so the battery can be accessed) and leave open until disconnected so the bsi does not start up, wait a few minutes for the bsi to shut down and then the battery can be disconnected. When you connect the battery again, then wait a minute or so before switching on the ignition so the dash lights up, then wait a minute or so before starting the engine - just to allow the bsi time to start up and avoid odd electrical problems. The clock/date will need resetting and the windows should be taken down and up to reset the anit pinch. 1. Deactivation Disconnect the battery negative cable.Protect the cable and the negative terminal in order to prevent any contact.CAUTION : Wait for at least 5 minutes before performing any operations (discharging of the airbag ECU power reserve).CAUTION : The ECU must not be removed with the connector still connected under any circumstances.Disconnect the airbag ECU connector. 2. ActivationESSENTIAL : The area of the airbags and pyrotechnic seat belts should be kept clear, both of objects and of people.Ignition off : Connect the airbag ECU connector.Connect the battery negative cable.On the driver’s side, door open, ignition on, keeping the steering wheel module activation area clear.Check the system is operating correctly by checking the airbag fault LEDs.N.B. : After disconnecting the battery, some electronic systems (injection, safety auto-reverse system ... ) need an initialisation procedure ; Perform the appropriate initialisation procedures. (Not sure what this is but your handbook may have something about battery disconnection)

Did you have to provide a 12 volt supply and an earth to these wires ? Did your original mirrors have heaters, if not did you need to do anything for it to work on the new mirrors ?

Have a read through this topic, possibly the bulbs have blackened with age and need replacing or even the display needs replacing. There are many pages but after about 6 you will get the idea of dash problems. http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php/topic/7700-digital-dash-display/page-1

I think this is the latest from Total https://www.nielsencdg.co.uk/acatalog/Total-Transmission-Gear-8-75W-80-Oil-1L-TOT_201278.html#SID=1087 You can check the spec but it may be the latest version of Total BV 75w80. Nielson deliver in a couple of days and their prices seem to be the lowest.

In the Haynes manuals and the Citroen service box procedures it is recommended to use special tools 4520-T and 4222-T when filling the coolant since the max coolant level in the expansion tank is below the air bleed screws. All the tools do is raise the level of the coolant above the bleed screws so the air can be pushed out. You can make a simple tool for less than £5 using an old expansion tank cap (or a new one for around £4), about 12 inches of basin waste pipe 32 mm diameter (1.25 inches) and the triangular section rubber seal from a 32 mm fitting such as a basin U bend or pipe connector. 2 m of the push fit waste pipe is £1.29 from Wickes. To make the tool prise out the tank cap internal valve then cut out a hole in the cap so the 32 mm pipe can just fit through it (drilling/Stanley knife/filing work). Push the pipe through the cap and fit the seal on the pipe. To use it, fill the coolant in the expansion tank to just below the max level, fit the pipe in the tank so it extends in to the coolant to just below the max level, push the seal down to the tank neck and then tighten the cap on the tank to give an air tight seal. Add coolant in the pipe to about 2/3 of its height (use a funnel to avoid spilling) - the pipe will fill but there will be an air pocket in the tank so the tank does not fill up. Then open/close the bleed screws in turn until any air is displaced. If needed more coolant can be added in the pipe. Once the air is out, undo the cap which will release a slight bit of air pressure and the coolant in the pipe will run in to the expansion tank and the pipe can be removed without any spillage - the tank level should be at max. Then fit the normal cap to the expansion tank, check for any leaks and then run the engine. This diy tool worked well when I replaced the thermostat housing on our C5.

noelport did not give much info on the car, we do not know what year it is (definately not 1988), which engine it has - size, bhp and petrol or diesel, whether it has climate control or just manual air con. It does appear though that Xsara cars with 2 radiator fans, the first speed occurs at 96°C and the high speed if 101°C is reached. So possibly noelport is not letting the coolant get hot enough for the high speed of the fans to kick in. Looking at the spec for our C5, the engine fan is a 3 speed one: - 1st speed at 97°C or if air con is on - 2nd speed at 101°C or 17 bar in the air con - 3rd speed at 105°C or air con on - air con cut off at 115°C or 30 bar in the air con - high temperature warning at 118°C.

If you do not have a level plug then you completely drain the oil and add the 2 litres through the hole for the vent cap or the reverse light switch after removing one of them. RPO 9786 equates to a production date of 25/8/2003 so you should not have a level plug. If you know how much oil you have lost, then you could just add that amount and not bother removing the drain plug. Otherwise, to remove it probably means using a longer wrench than already tried or with the one used to hold it in place as though undoing the plug and hitting it with a hammer in the direction to undo the plug or if you have an impact driver you could use that. When the plug is removed you may find it has a copper seal that needs replacing.

This is copied from a post by noelport posted in the C5 section: In my case, the A/C high-speed cooling fan doesn't come on resulting in too high a pressure and unable to recharge properly. Initially, I found the twin condenser blower relays completely melted due to loose connections on the relay terminals. I replaced both relays but I can't get the blowers to go on high speed. If I jumper the series relay contacts in front of radiator, one blower turrns off and the other goes on high speed. Are both fans supposed to go to high speed or does one turn off while the other goes to high? Please help. I would really appreciate your advice. It's a Xsara saloon 1988 model, twin front cooling fans. Thank you.

Welcome to the forum. This shows the diagnostic socket position on a 2006 Relay which could be similar to the 2003 model. http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/location-plug-connector-obd/Citroen-relay-3-rhd From the parts diagrams the blower speed control resister looks to be at the right of the heater unit on the right of the blower. There are a few part numbers depending on the production date and if you have air con. With air con 6441E5 up to production 17069875 and then 6441CA. Without air con 6441E5 up to production 20020426 and then 6441CA. According to the parts diagrams you should have air bags, or at least from production 17000001. The pad in the middle of the steering wheel contains the air bag. When you switch on the ignition there should be a warning lamp that comes on for a few seconds with the other lamps, it may show an air bag or SRS. To remove the air bag, switch off the ignition, open the bonnet/door to access the battery (I am not sure where it is), wait for a few minutes for the bsi to shut down, disconnect the battery negative lead and wait 10 minutes at least, then remove the bolts on the back of the steering wheel and the air bag can then be removed. Fit the air bag back, connect the battery, wait a minute or so, switch on the ignition so the dash lights up, wait a minute or so for the bsi to start up and then the engine can be started. If needed, reset the date/clock and take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch. The battery disconnection/reconnection procedure aviods odd electrical problems if the bsi is not given time to shut down and save settings. With the air bag off you might be able to see a switch for the horn but it could be the fault is the rotary switch under the steering wheel switch unit with the light/wiper stalks.

No idea where the earth points are but often they are near the battery, near the fuse boxes, near the lights, above the outside front corner of the footwells and there will be an earth strap between the body and gearbox/engine.

Welcome to the forum. All I can suggest is to remove one of the existing ones to find out what type it is and then look on-line for something comparable.

The info I have is from 2012 so may not be right for a 2015 vehicle. Front brakes: It gives the caliper yoke bolts as 210 Nm and they look as if they use a hex bit. The caliper bolts are given as 34 Nm. The disc bolts as 12 Nm. Rear brakes: Caliper yoke bolts 160 Nm. Caliper bolts 30 Nm. Disc bolts 12 Nm. Handbrake shoes support 200 Nm.

Some info here to consider https://www.obd-codes.com/p0121

If not already done, it will make the job easier in the future if some grease is put on the bolts/nuts so they do not rust in again. I guess the reason for the additive bag is to minimise handling of the fluid so should be safer for the technicians and if the bolts were not seized, it ought to be quicker to change the bag than do a top up. Was 400 euros for a dealer to do the work including resetting the level ?

Most probably it is a clutch problem such as oil on the clutch plate/flywheel and after the car has been first used it is removed a bit so the clutch then works better. To bleed the clutch is easy, similar to bleeding brakes although a bit more awkward since the clutch pushes the fluid back. There is a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder which is undone to let the fluid out. You could just let some run through under gravity, also try pumping the pedal but I find this does not work that well and I use a Mityvac vacuum pump to suck the fluid through. A syringe may also work. Note that the fluid take off on the reservoir is quite high up so the fluid level needs to be kept high to aviod letting air in to the pipes which then makes the job harder without using vacuum. The fluid usually comes out quite dirty compared to the brakes and may be due to wear on the seals.

I do not know what the difference is between the part numbers. The rpo is a code for the manufacturing date and can be found on the tyre pressure sticker on one of the door pillars, as well as in the Warranty and Maintenance book inside front cover. Using 12019 equates to a production date of 5/10/2009 http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/gen/Gen_Organr.html so for a 2008 car you should have the correct part number. Did your original controller have any problems ? If the unit from the breakers is not faulty, then you could try a battery disconnection/reconnection or a bsi reset. In the C5 Technical Section there is a procedure for the disconnection in the pinned Common Problems topic which I use and a pinned bsi reset topic.

Welcome to the forum. I think I have read on here that the screens can be changed and will work, also the cruise can be added but it might need a diagnostic to activate it. Having not done these things though I am not sure. If you do the changes you should inform your insurer as a modification.

You can not really check the gas yourself, it needs to be done by a garage with the correct equipment to remove the existing gas to see how much there is compared to how much the car should have. The last time I had the C5 regassed there was about 100 grams in the car but it should be about 500 grams - 100 was not enough to cool the car but was enough to show the right pressures so the air con would run.