paul.h

Are you sure clean diesel filter does not mean the diesel fuel filter and not the exhaust particle filter ? The fuel filter needs replacing every 2 years or 24000 miles according to the Haynes manual (although it does not cover the 2.2 hdi).

Try a google search on C5 height sensor picture and from this you will be able to recognise them.

Left and right sides are usually taken as when sat in the driver's seat looking forward. Often near side and off side are used as well as passenger and driver sides - but if outside the UK these are on opposite sides and on a forum it is not always obvious where the poster is located.

Welcome to the forum. It is a sign of a problem, after the doors are closed the car should move to a level position in one go. In case it is a sticking height sensor, try taking the suspension up and down a few times to see if this helps. Also leave the steering in the straight ahead position (vaguely remember something about this) to see if it helps. Also the front and/or rear should move, not a corner on its own. There is a pinned post on never going under the car without using axle stands, just in case you need to spray the height sensors with wd40. If the sensors are caught then the suspension can drop to a low height. The sensors are on the front and rear anti roll bars.

The Citroen parts diagrams do not show this part separate to the rack or piping. If the photo shows the high and low pressure pipes to the rack from the pump, there is a picture in the Citroen procedures which shows the clamp having a cut out at the bottom and possibly at the top depending on the rack/maybe car rpo. So it may be the clamp is as originally supplied and without the cut out it would not be possible to fit the 2 pipes separately. It looks as if the clamp would be part of the top pipe and the parts diagram of this pipe seems to show something there. When replacing the pipes it says to replace the O-ring seals. But these seals are not listed in the parts diagrams so are not readily available - we had a post not long since of a similar leak somewhere in the piping on a new model C5 and Citroen wanted to sell a complete pipe, coastline advised to try an ordinary O-ring but I do not know the outcome since I can not remember seeing a final post. If one or both of the 2 O-ring seals is leaking, then possibilities include - the seal may be damaged/swollen/perished/the wrong size, the pipe flare or rack seal contact face may be damaged, the clamp may not be tight enough - so you would think it would not be difficult to sort out, just replace the faulty part, but if a cheap seal does not work then an expensive pipe or rack may be needed. It could well be a replacement seal has been used but of the wrong type of rubber so the oil has affected it. If it helps you can see the parts diagrams as a free service on the service.citroen site - you need to register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club, which is allowed as a member of a car club in the terms/conditions. Also check the rack seal where the column enters, I once had one leak on a car. Tests are probably best done by cleaning the oil off, running the engine and turning the steering each way to pump oil around and then checking again for the leak. The procedures also note a modification where the lower attached pipe fastens at its middle to the subframe - a new design of clip has to be used. I do not know if this has any affect on leaks.

Welcome to the forum. If I have got the right part it is called a wing protector or side protector, it clips into place and comes in black, aluminium or to be painted to the body colour. For the left side the part nos. in the above order are 8547 P7, 8547 R5, 8547 Z4. Your Citroen dealer will be able to get the part and the clips if they have broken or you could try a breakers or ebay. As an example but for the driver's side http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C3-PLURIEL-REAR-WING-PROTECTOR-RHS-NEW-GENUINE-8547R6-/310538343260

Welcome to the forum. The suspension pump has a maxi fuse MF8, 40 amp, according to the RTA French C5 manual. I think the maxi fuses are located in the engine fusebox but under the top layer which will need removing - but you seem to have a 12 volt supply from this. There is also a fuse listed in the glovebox fuses, F23, 15 amp - this should be listed in your handbook. Also check the pump earth connection. Somebody here had a pump problem and by using an earth wire against the pump body it would run - there was an internal fault and the pump needed replacing.

A couple of extra thoughts on the handbook/key. There may be drawers under the front seats and it may have been put there. You could contact the last owner with a phone no.(but not your address) about the key to see if they know what happened to it. Something to beware of on the suspension, there will be height sensors underneath, probably on the anti roll bars, which if you catch could result in the suspension dropping to a low level. So if you ever go under the car, raise it on the suspension but then always use axle stands. We have a warning on this as a pinned note. Also if you jack the car up, it will probably be in the handbook to raise the suspension to max height first to avoid possible problems later. You may find a local bodyshop will refurbish the wheels for about £50 each if you are bothered about it.

I had the rack seals fail on a Saab 9-5 some time ago, probably the wrong fluid had been put in which affected the seals at both ends of the rack so the oil went overnight. The oil was the wrong colour. The warranty company would only pay for a recon rack but having previously fit one on a Saab 900 which never seemed right afterwards, I decided a new one would be best but had to pay the difference. I also had new tie rod ends fitted. No more problems after this. If you have the steel springs so the steering fluid is not part of the suspension, I would have the rack changed but also get them to flush out all the old oil from the pipework and pump. If the fluid is shared with the suspension (as in the earlier models) then consideration needs to be given to the suspension. You might find one of the repairs tried was an additive to swell the seals which may have worked for a while but if they have spent £1000 I would have expected a new rack x 2 for this. I would also check if any of the rubber piping has gone soft if the wrong oil has been used. If you do decide to return the car there will probably be a reduction in what you get back due to the time you have used it. A car of this age may go down in price by about £2000 a year so you might get about £1000 less. Have a look on the Citroen site for used cars to get an idea of prices.

If it is the latest style of C5 (which I think it is from your other posts) you can see and print (mouse right click then print works well) the owners handbook on the service.citroen site, documentation de bord, select language and then your car. http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ You can also buy new handbooks from your Citroen dealer and it has been reported here they are cheaper than used ones from ebay. You may find the car orginally came with a remote key and a key without a remote. I do not know why cars are not sold with all the keys and books but a recent report in Car Mechanics says some intermediaries selling cars on do this on purpose as a sick joke or to try and earn a bit of cash from the next buyer/dealer as a back hander to 'find' again. Or maybe they are going to sell 'your' handbook on ebay. After the long drive home you must know the car well by now and I hope you have enjoyed it. Being the 2.2 hdi does it have the hydractive suspension ? If you are into caravanning it had a good report from the Caravan Club.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried to resynchronise the remote key ? There may be different procedures to follow and the following lists a couple that may work but also check what is in your handbook. 4. Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controlsPerform the following operations :Put the HF key to be synchronised in position "ignition +"Press on the locking button (big button) on the HF keyWait between 5 and 10 secondsRelease the locking button on the HF keySwitch off the ignition with the HF keyWait 3 secondsThe ignition key HF PLIP is synchronised.N.B. : Perform these operations for the other keys equipped with HF remote control.Carry out a locking / unlocking test of the vehicle’s doors and tailgate.N.B. : If the locking / unlocking test of the doors and tailgate is not correct, restart the synchronisations of all the ignition keys equipped with HF PLIPS. 6.3. Resynchronisation of the remote control6.3.1. Cause of desynchronisationThe remote control’s evolving code, matched with the vehicle’s receiver, is modified each time the remote control is used.Therefore the key can become desynchronised if there are 255 presses on the remote control buttons when out of range of the vehicle.6.3.2. Resynchronisation of the remote control To resynchronise the remote control, this procedure has to be followed Stage Action 1 Switch on the ignition using the key whose remote control is to be resynchronised 2 Press one of the transmitter buttons within 10 seconds of the appearance of ignition+

A bit unlucky to have 2 things fail. Is the pollen filter in need of replacement (if it has one) ? I vaguely remember one Citroen model that needed frequent filter changes to stop something similar or maybe a problem with the ignition switch and it may have been the Xsara Picasso - in the Haynes manual for this it has the frequency as every year or 12500 miles if sooner and on many other Citroens it is every 2 years.

Welcome to the forum. There will be a fuse somewhere and a resistor pack that controls the blower speed that could be checked and possibly a relay. If you have a wiring diagram (Haynes) it should show these.

Welcome to the forum. The handbook does not list a separate fuse for the rear brake lights so there probably is not one. I would check the bulbs. Do all the other tail lights work ?

egr valves are not supposed to start working until the engine has warmed up. A quick google search helped to back this up. They are supposed to recycle a bit of exhaust gas to cool the combustion which then reduces the amount of nitrogen oxides produced. So I would still not rule out the egr valve.

Clocks resetting seems to be a common thing on Citroens, it happened on our old C3, our old C4 and on our current 2011 C4. However, at the last service there was an update to stop the current C4 resetting and after 1 month so far so good. I usually thought it happened on starting the car but on the new C4 a few times it may have been on opening the doors since on starting it had already moved on a few minutes. So I would live with it for now and just reset it again but it may be worth checking the battery voltage is ok. On the clouds of black smoke, was the cat/dpf in the exhaust and the intercooler cleaned out of oil if the old turbo had failed ? You have still not said if the egr valve was new - I ask since often people fit parts from breakers due tocost but sometimes they can be no better than the part being replaced. If you do get a new air flow meter, I have read on here that cheap ones may not be up to standard and may not work properly, so something to be aware of.

Did you have these running problems before changing the egr valve - if not it would be tempting to fit the old one, then if it runs ok again it would suggest everything else is ok. Is the replacement egr valve a new one, it should have a 12 month guarantee so could be replaced/refunded ? I do not know if a bsi reset might help so it can relearn a none fouled up egr valve - see if anyone else comments. Before replacing lots of parts, a diagnostic check on a dealer type Lexia may help to keep the cost down so only faulty ones are replaced. How many miles ago was the recon turbo fitted ?

Welcome to the forum. The bodywork on the Citroens we had owned have not suffered from rust so it seems unusual, especially on a car only 3 years old. Any stone chips though I have painted to prevent rust occuring. Citroen sell the pencil type of touch up paints, the colour and laquer together for about £13 which is dear but better than having rust to sort out later. Let us know how you get on with the warranty claim.

What brand/size of tyres did you have fitted and are you happy with them ? One of our cars is getting ready for a couple of tyres and recommendations are worth having.

Welcome to the forum. You seem to have checked all the obvious things. How many miles had the replacement engine done, maybe a compression test may show if it is worn out. Are the glowplugs getting hot, are the fuel injectors leaking, do you need to prime the fuel filter in the morning ? You have not mentioned if the engine management light comes on but ideally a diagnostic check or even a code reader that does live data may help - first you could check what it shows for the coolant temperature in case it is faulty.

Last time I replaced a cv boot (Nissan Primera about 10 years ago) I used a stretch one and it made the job a lot easier. I was surprised how much the rubber can stretch to slide over the cone and onto the cv joint. The other week our latest C3 needed a cv boot but since it was under warranty the dealer was only allowed to fit a Citroen part which took a day to get and a bit longer to fit. Not sure here if Brixham Bob also wants to replace the joint as well as the boot.

Welcome to the forum. I have not done a Xantia cv joint but on others where the circlip has been one that looks like a bit of bent wire, it has needed a good wallop to get the clip to go in the shaft groove and the joint to be released. In the Haynes for a C4, it shows using a drift against the inner part of the joint being hit by a big hammer (2½ lb or more) with the shaft off the car. With the shaft still on the car, ideally you need 2 people, one to hold the shaft, the other to do the hitting. On cv joints using a proper circlip, this has been undone using circlip pliers first. (I have moved your post into a subforum since ones outside do not show after a few days and can be difficult to find)

There is now a Haynes manual for the C4 which will be worth you getting. I think you are saying you have manual air con - a rotary control to alter the temperature and a rotary control to alter the air distribution flaps, a button to switch the air con on or off, a button to put the air flow on recirculation and no indication of the temperature. With the manual air con system, the temperature control flap is moved by a cable from the back of the rotary control. This cable may have come loose at one end, maybe the control seems a bit easier to turn to help confirm this. Access to the cable requires removal of quite a few of the dash panels and in the passenger footwell. As far as I can tell, there is not a valve to control the flow of hot coolant to the heater system and nothing is mentioned in the Haynes manual.

Depending on circumstances, on retirement annual mileage is often a fraction of that when working. As a result, actual mpg figures become less important in the financial calcs. Say a 1.6 hdi manual C4 will be about 11 p/mile on fuel, getting the hybrid may save say 2 p/mile and over 3000 miles only about £60 a year. The C4 car tax is only £30 so nothing to save there either. I am not sure, but I have read the DS5 is based on the C4 so may not be much bigger. On retirement and your last car, there are many over 80 year olds still driving so chances are with a bit of luck, you may be into a couple of cars at least.

An internet search suggests a few things for P0093. Low fuel pressure, on a C4 the cure seemed to be a new fuel filter. Have you got some dodgy fuel ?