paul.h

This is a problem with the anti pinch, did the same on our last C5. Never managed to fix it, tried disconnecting the battery and following the instructions in the handbook but had no effect, neither did ensuring the guides and all the door/window seals were clean or spraying with wd40. When closing I found stopping the window about half way up and then a few quick touches on the window switch would inch it to the closed position. Have a look at this C5 post though which did give a fix http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20421-passenger-door-window-will-not-close/

The one I use is part of a set and looks like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CITROEN-PEUGEOT-SUMP-PLUG-REMOVAL-TOOL-8mm-13mm-/190893506853?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2c7223c125 From memory, the 8 mm also fits the hole in the gearbox level plug.

Welcome to the forum. The sump plug on our 2003 1.4 sx petrol uses an 8mm square section and torque 30 Nm (except you can not get a torque wrench in the space), just a ring spanner around the 8mm plug body. When you lift out the filter, oil will get everywhere so a few rags around the filter body on the engine will help. If using Haynes, note that it has the wrong oil volume and use the amount in your car handbook. The 1.4 petrol is 3 litres, so add 2.5, check the level, then gradually top up to the dip stick max mark.

Welcome to the forum. A google search and Citroen do not seem to show any parts. So, you may need to make your own or it may be worth visiting a car body shop and asking what they would do. If doing your own, try making one from cardboard first to get the shape right before cutting the metal sheet to shape. You may also get one from a scrap yard by cutting out the rear panel. Obviously you will need body filler to tidy up the repairs.

This web site has workshop manuals that you can download free. May be of some use to you. http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/index.html?ds/DS_Manuals.html

Out of interest, I tried this on our 2007 C5 with the standard Citroen radio. Sat in the car and waited for the bsi to shutdown, then poked a cd in the cd slot, then started the engine and the cd was pulled in and the radio started, even though it was switched off before previously turning off the engine and removing the key. The cd did not eject though as you are experiencing. So maybe what seems like unusual behaviour is now quite normal. When I tried the same thing before the bsi had shutdown the cd was pulled straight in and started playing. If the cd is left in the radio before turning it off and stopping the engine, then nothing happens with the radio when the engine is restarted.

Welcome to the forum. This is just a guess but maybe have a look under the rear seat to see if the fuel tank access cover is not on properly. Same goes for any other seals to the body that may have been disturbed.

Is the radio switched off before leaving the car ? Just wondering if the radio on/off switch is faulty, maybe you need to check with the supplier if this is normal for the model of radio.

Car doors have a plastic sheet that keeps the door card side dry and the speakers. Sounds as if the radio is switching on every time the engine is started so that it pulls in a cd. Try without a cd and see if it still happens.

This sounds good, so no need to do anything.

Our expert coastline taxis is in South Shields, you may be better off going for a C5 and he can help look after it.

I do not know where you are located, but my local dealer Bentleys in Warrington may still have for sale a 2.0 hdi C4 5 door exclusive, 2009 registered but a mark 1 C4. About 33k miles and in good condition and it does not have a DPF. We considered it for a relative but in the end she wanted another C3 thinking the C4 was too big.

On the C5 technical subforum you will find a bsi reset as a pinned topic. A wheel balance weight may have been knocked off on the flatbed - a check of the wheels may show a clean bit where a weight once was. Also check there is still some water in the washer tank.

I am not sure about this and it may be somewhere on this forum, but did not some of the early cars need the control unit replacing as opposed to being reset and this could be the problem and not the need for a new tank, since the level may be done by counting down the miles done by the car. One thing I am not sure on though, is the eoylis fluid still being injected as if nothing is wrong and the error message could just be lived with ? If you look at the parts diagrams for the C5, mark 1, 2.2 hdi, air and fuel supply, fuel tank fuel gauge, diesel fuel and particle filter - it shows part 20 ECB which has different part nos depending on the car RPO - it may be this part that needs replacing, and then configuring (by Lexia). The picture of the tank is not clear enough to show if it has a level sensor. If not done already, register on the service.citroen site as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club and see the parts diagrams. Also buy the Citroen manuals on dvd from such as ebay for about £5 - this gives all the procedures and parts diagrams - but looking at the ones for additive filling and configuring the ecu, it is not that clear on what needs doing and where the control unit is located. It may well be that a trip to a Citroen dealer is the solution here depending on what they want to charge.

If you want a C4 and the 1.6 hdi engine, then check it has had annual oil changes, does not smoke much on start up (if non DPF), does not smoke much on accelerating, no rattling noises on accelerating and then the turbo is likely ok - just based on my experience of early signs of a turbo failure on a Saab petrol engine. If unsure about the 1.6 then go for a 2.0 hdi - the extra fuel use and insurance will be recovered by not having the possible turbo failure cost - or have a good warranty with the car - a Citroen dealer will be 12 months. The C4 is a good car, we had a 2008 1.6 hdi 110 hp VTR+ 5 door hatchback (non DPF) and took it from 14k to about 50k miles. It drove well, gave good fuel economy and only problem we had was oil leaking out of the doser valve casing joint and dripping on to the alternator. It was serviced every year by the Citroen dealer. We had no problems with the turbo or injectors. We replaced it with a new shape C4 2011 1.6 hdi 110 hp VTR+ 5 door hatchback (with DPF since they all now have them) and have so far taken it from 16k to 30k miles. This car is even better than the other and gives improved fuel economy and performance but is comfier with less hard suspension. The 1.6 hdi engine has annual oil changes or 12500 miles if sooner, the other engines are 2 years or 20k miles as for the C3. The 92 hp hdi engine may/or not give slightly better fuel economy, but depending on the model year may have lower car tax so it is worth checking the tax disc or V5C for the CO2 emisions since one model could be 128 g/km and £125 but if 120 g/km or less will be £30. As for the 1.6 hdi 2008 catchet, it will have a glass roof which may or not appeal, you need to check it has had annual oil changes, if it does not have a DFP (exhaust particle filter), being a diesel, there may be a bit of smoke on starting but not much which could be a sign of the turbo wearing. If it has had a turbo change already, check what else was done and who by. Listen to the engine and if you can hear a chuffing noise it may be a sign of an injector seal leaking but if this bad it may not run that well. A common fault is failure of the wiring between the hatch door and the body which can lead to obvious symptoms of rear wiper faults/boot locking faults so check these work ok. There are also all the usual checks for any car to make sure everything works, tyres are in good condition (the VTR+ ones are expensive being an odd size and could be on this car 205/50R17W), rear exhaust box support strap is not rusted away (a new strap is not available, only a rear box), if it has a DPF check the mileage since if about 70k miles it will be due for renewal costing several £100, timing belts are also due at similar miles if being cautious, check the front and rear brake discs for wear - the rear ones are expensive and include the hub bearing and abs target, if it has climate control check the air con cools both sides equally. On a test drive the car should handle well, drive smoothly, accelerate quickly (unless possibly the 92 hp engine 0-62mph 12.5 sec vs 11.2 sec for the 110 hp) go round corners well, the brakes are very good requiring little effort - similar to the C3.

Whilst the piston is out, I am sure you know to examine the piston and cylinder bore and seal location for any damage and scouring as well as the seals. If you end up needing a new strut they are about £150 at a dealer.

Just checked and the bulbs maybe H21W halogen ones which probably get very hot so it may be worth checking the correct ones have been fitted.

Welcome to the forum. Maybe the earth connection is not good enough or there was corrosion on the electrical part of the clusters or the electrical connectors need cleaning so that the normal use of other lights was causing hot spots or the other lights are having to earth via the fog lights. If not investigated and sorted it needs doing since it may happen again. If you can, get the old lights back for a check of their condition. I have moved your post into a subforum since outside of one they are not visible after a few days and can become lost.

A google search shows 4 door central locking kits for about £50 and 2 door window winder kits for £65, both on Amazon so using aftermarket kits and fitting yourself, it would not be too expensive.

Welcome to the forum. I can not help with this, maybe there is something in the handbook, but if you give it a try let us know how you get on.

Is the door strap damaged or missing (the part between the hinges and joins the door pillar and door frame) ?

Welcome to the forum. For parts you could try aftermarket suppliers or a mix of this and Citroen parts from a scrap yard - only suggesting this since to use all Citroen parts is likely to prove expensive and the ecu would need to be programmed, the comms 2000 unit below the steering wheel (contains the indicator/lighting/wiper switches and remote locking receiver) may need changing. It could well prove cheaper to sell the car and get one with the desired parts already fitted. You would also need to tell the insurance company and they may charge more for this (even though they may not pay out for the mods if not standard on the car - a response we had from Admiral after fitting parking sensors on a C3) You can see the parts diagrams on the service.citroen website if you register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club and this will give you an idea of what bits you will need.

Just to confirm John's post, the C5 is not heavy enough for your caravan. This is from a 2007 sales brochure and car handbook: Max tow weight of any of the mark 2 C5 estates is 1600 kg and the 2.0 hdi hatchback is 1700 kg but apart from the 2.2 hdi 173 hp engine these values reduce if the car is loaded to the max laden weight. The highest car kerb weight (not including 75 kg for the driver) is for the 2.2 hdi 173 hp estate auto at 1640 kg and it has a tow limit of 1600 kg, the 2.0 hdi auto is 1574 kg and tow limit 1300 kg. The early mark 3 C5 tourer estates with the 2.0 hdi 138/140 hp have higher kerb weights and towing limits but from memory it is 1800 kg and they did a 2.2 hdi 173 hp for a while which has higher weights. Our first C5 was a mark 1 2.2 hdi hatchback and we had no bother with it and it was replaced with a mark 2 2.2 hdi 173 hp estate since we had changed our caravan and needed a heavier car. The mark 1 gave better fuel economy but the mark 2 drives better and the built in sat nav is useful (VTX model). I do not do many miles in it and when buying it was more important to get a decent car than the difference in fuel economy of maybe an extra 5 mpg. We have a 1.6 hdi C4 for day to day and trips that do not require the estate, this gives over 60 mpg compared to 50+ mpg for the same driving style and motorway trips (Warrington to Hull/Lincoln which we do regularly). The 6th gear can not really be used much below 50 mph so unless on motorways it would not get used much.

Haynes do not do a manual for the new shape C5, if you are ok with French, there is the Review Technique Automobile one for the 1.6 and 2.0 hdi C5 II depuis 03/2008 CIP B737.5 from such as Amazon. There is also the Citroen manual on 3 dvds from such as ebay for about £5.

Previous advice was for the earlier C5. For the tourer, there is a small fuse box which from a couple of photos, appears to be located behind the left headlight where it joins the wing, the back of the box is red and is between the battery and wing. The fuses look as if they may be fusible links and fuse F1 (may be at the bottom end) is a 40 amp fuse which according to the French RTA manual is listed as 'group electropompe - calculateur suspension electrohydraulic' - so I think this is the fuse you need to check. It also contains the small fuses F6-F9 listed in the handbook as on the battery. In the main engine fusebox, possibly under the top layer, there are also some maxi fuses - MF7, 20 amp is listed as 'suspension active a amortissement variable' so you may also have to check this. There is a previous topic where there was a fluid leak which resulted in failure of the pump fuse so checking the fuse is worth doing.