paul.h

You might find it useful to see the Citroen parts diagrams on the service.citroen website, register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club and then you can use your car VIN to find the exact model/parts. When I had a look, the heater flap motor seemed to be at the top of the air con unit. It could be the heater flap is not moving its full travel to give cold air. Within the air con/heating unit under the dash there will be 2 rads, one with engine coolant for heating so will get hot and the other with the refrigerant so will go cold with the air con running.

The front and rear washers use the same tank and pump - it runs in opposite directions for front and back.

Something to be aware of, pattern exhausts may not perform as well as the originals. I replaced our C3 exhaust with a Eurocarparts sourced Klarius one, about a third of the cost of a dealer one but it resonates at idle and 2500 rpm which corresponds to about motorway speeds. After 2 years it has not improved and spoils the car. Another member has posted similarly, so worth asking for some guarantees on performance. First time I have had a problem like this.

You can see the handbook on the service.citroen website, documentation de bord, select language, then your car.

Brilliant, and no cost in the end to fix.

I have never longed for an old car, I used to get fed up spending all my spare time fixing them, welding, rust repairs - but without them I would not know much about cars. Just changing oil, and filters and brake cleaning on modern cars does not teach much.

If it has only done 1000 miles since new it will not be run in yet so your performance and mpg will improve. We have a 2011 C4 1.6 hdi 110 hp and it is a comfy long distance cruiser with good performance so you should enjoy your car. Motorways always gives at least 60 mpg at 65-70 mph, unless weather is bad and day to day about 48 mpg. You may find the Citroen knockers have yet to own one. Only points I do not like are the large headrests which make rear/side visibiltiy difficult, the tinted side rear windows, the fancy shaped door mirrors that do not give good rear visibility and at first had to be careful when lane changing.

We had a new 2005 2.0 hdi and in 3 years and about 40k miles had no bother with it, only a maxi fuse once went. It was our first Citroen and diesel, since then we have had/still have 2 C3s, 2 C4s and 2C5s and they have been the most reliable cars we have had. Apart from the one new one, all have been lowish mileage when bought so that may have helped. Also have a look at our sister site, the Picasso owners club. There is a link to it on the forum front page. Driving wise, the Picasso was nothing special, made a good taxi for teenagers, and with the back seat down was like a van for moving stuff. The C4s were the 1.6 hdi engines 110 hp which gives good performance. The first we kept to about 50k miles and the second is on about 30k miles. The Picasso driver's seat base was a bit big for me leading to pins and needles in the legs after about 30 mins if the seat was not at its optimum position, so something to watch for and the central lower dash got in the way of my left leg. We also tried it towing our caravan but it was not really heavy enough (kerb 1300 kg not inc driver, caravan was about 1100 kg), felt unstable and underpowered so only did it once and then bought a C5 for this role. Only things I can remember to watch for are water leaks in to the rear footwell compartments (runs down the inside of the doors, across the floor and collects in the compartments - maybe a possible rust area). We also had a water leak in to the driver's footwell which appeared on the rear floor underneath the compartment box - I never found how it was getting in.

Rather than a cheap code reader, one that gives live data or a Citroen Lexia or a dealer diagnostic check would help point you in the right direction as opposed to replacing lots of bits hoping to find a fix. P1070 could be a faulty lambda sensor in the exhaust - live data would have shown if it was switching properly and whether at fault. Similarly, live data would show the temperature indicated by the coolant temp sensor so you could tell if it was faulty. Cutting out could also be a faulty crankshaft position sensor, particularly as it gets warm and making it difficult to start again until cooled down.

Welcome to the forum. The service light just means there is a fault that needs seeing to. ESP/ASR could be a brake problem. Loss of power, probably it has gone into limp mode due to the engine management fault light coming up. Anti pollution fault could be the exhaust particulate filter is blocked, due to being due for replacement or maybe it is full of oil from the turbo failure - assuming it failed and let a lot of oil through into the engine. When the turbo was replaced was the oil cleaned out of the aftercooler and exhaust system ? It could also be the swirl flap actuator at the gearbox end of the cylinder head - the plastic cup on the metal ball often breaks. A new actuator (called a diaphragm) is about £20 and it is possible to just replace the plastic cup by removing the old one and fitting the one from the new actuator. If not this, the best option is to read the fault codes to see what is wrong.

On our Citroen cars (oldest 2003), the RPO number is on a sticker on one of the door pillars and also has the tyre pressures and paint code. The VIN (chassis no.) will be on the V5C registration document and on our cars is visible at the bottom of the left side of the windscreen.

The air con pipes under the bonnet will be aluminium metal ones, about 1 cm in diameter. If the air con is working, the one from the compressor to the front condenser matrix will be warm/hot and the one to the compressor from the cabin bulkhead should be cold and probably have condensation on it. It sounds as if the warm air flap is not closing fully. With the air con off, and the cabin fan running to pull in air from the outside, can you set it so the air in to the cabin is still at the outside air temperature to help confirm this ? If it is a flap motor, then the dash may need to be removed to get to it. If paying for the work, a motor may be about £60 but also about 6 hours labour - this could be the reason why the previous owner did not have it fixed. The flap motor ( 2 if separate control for each side) should be at the side and top of the heating unit. One other possibility to try is a battery disconnection in case the heating controller needs resetting. This is from my Common Problems post in the C5 section: If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Do the air con pipes under the bonnet get cold. If so, and it looks as if you have climate control rather than a manual system, it is likely a problem with a heater flap motor - so the flap is not moving to the cold air position.

If the motor is running, then maybe the mechanism or the gear on the motor that moves the mechanism is worn. To have a look the door panel will need removing.

Welcome to the forum. If there are 2 of you with the same problems which started at the same time after filling up then likely the fuel is contaminated. Where did you get the fuel and what model is the other car ? If spraying something like easystart into the air inlet runs the engine then this helps confirm a fuel problem. If this is not the problem then a diagnostic check using a Lexia at a Citroen dealer or specialist may be the next option since possibilities could be many including a sensor fault such as the crankshaft sensor, air leaking into the fuel system so it drains back to the tank (most likely at the fuel filter).

Welcome to the forum. When it was regassed did it work at the garage ? To use the aircon, the cabin fan has to be switched on and run, the engine cooling fan will run and you will hear a clunk at the engine as the compressor clutch operates - do all these things happen ?

You can get the right light part no using your VIN on the service.citroen website, join as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club. As coastline has posted, it does sound as if you could an earth wire fault that needs tracing back to the bodywork - and maybe a raining in problem that has caused the rust. If you have an electrical meter you can check the connector for voltage when the various lights should be lit. There could also be a problem at the gearbox reverse switch (may be located on top of the gearbox).

The clutch is hydraulic rather than a cable so it will not be adjustable. If the gear lever is stiff when the engine is not running, it should not be anything to do with the clutch.

I have found de-icer on a tissue removes sticker glue from windows. You could try at one end out of sight to see if it marks.

Welcome to the forum. I have not had xenon lights but have read on here that they have a flat dipped beam pattern and do not kick up at the kerb side, hence when driving abroad from the UK, things like beam benders are not needed. One member I think carries a letter to this effect, from I think Citroen, so if stopped has some evidence why beam benders are not used. I believe the motors on xenon lights are to automatically adjust the light height depending on road and car loading to stop the lights dazzling other road users. If you do a search on the full forum on xenon lights, you will find a few relevant posts, such as this one http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14830-changing-xenons-to-lhd/?hl=%2Bxenon+%2Blights&do=findComment&comment=59112

Changing front pads and discs would not involve the front abs sensors so the 2 are probably not related, unless possibly the wiring was caught.

Pleased that worked, it is always good when it costs nothing to fix a fault. The phrase forum police is from admin for the moderators who help to look after the forum.

2.4 bar is 35 psi, I do not know if this is a bit high, but you could let a tyre down a bit and see if you get a warning.

Welcome to the forum. Does the fault occur whilst moving or before setting off ? What was causing the brake noise ? Your problem could be a faulty wheel sensor, a sensor target (front ones are part of the wheel bearing, rear ones inside the brake drum at the middle, looking a bit like an oil seal), dirt on a sensor or a rear target (the rear brakes may need cleaning out), a sensor wiring/connector problem, a tyre problem if not all worn similarly, the abs controller or valve/pump block. If you took it to a Citroen garage or specialist, I would have thought they should have been able to read the stored fault codes which would tell you which part was giving the problem. Without diagnostic equipment you are limited on what checks you can do apart from cleaning and visual checks. On a sensor, if you unplug the wiring connector, with a meter, it may be possible to measure the resistance across it to see if all 4 are similar and none are faulty.

Welcome to the forum. It may be the ball joints at both ends of the gear change cables need greasing or the cables may be due for replacement.