paul.h

Welcome to the forum. There are not many posts in the DS section but if you need any help we will all try our best.

You could try to disconnect, wait a few minutes and then reconnect the battery as a first possible fix. This is from the common problems post on the technical section. 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. That is a fine looking car and mansion in the background.

C5 (X7) is Citroen's model name for the new C5.

I do not think it is bluetooth, you have to put a valid SIM card into it so the built in phone in the radio will work.

I pinned the topic since it will be useful to other potential buyers and if at the top is easy to find. People have asked before for buying advice and the posts as you have found are not easy to find.

Welcome to the forum. The clutch biting point on the C3 does tend to be a bit high compared to other cars. You could check if the clutch slips so you know if it is worn. There has been a query on this before on here but nothing came of it, so it must have been ok once the driver got used to it. Being hydraulic actuation (master and slave cylinders) there is no adjustment, but it should have the fluid changed/bled when the brake fluid is changed every 2 years - this sometimes makes the pedal a bit lighter if the old fluid was dirty. If doing this yourself, I have found the easiest way is to suck the fluid through the bleed screw using a Mityvac brake bleeder since pumping the pedal does not work that well. The bleed screw has to be undone quite a lot to get the fluid to flow. Link to the other post http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14988-just-sold-vectra-for-c3-maintenance/

Welcome to the forum. You do not mention your location or your car model and tyre size which may impact on any advice. We had a 2008 C4 1.6 hdi VTR+ with 17 inch wheels with Michelin Exalto 205/50R17W tyres. This size was expensive and this size in Exalto was no longer being made when a replacement was needed. We tend to stick with Michelins since they give about twice the mileage of other makes used before. Most of our tyres we have bought from Bromley tyres in Warrington, they are competitive on price and as most places the cost reduces if more than 1 tyre is required. Like most places, you need to phone for the latest prices. http://www.bromleytyres.co.uk/

If you go to a Citroen dealer with the car 17 digit VIN (chassis no) they will supply the correct part. The VIN can easily be seen at the bottom right of the windscreen when looking at it from the passenger side front wing and will start VF7.

A link to the other pump problem, http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20241-c5-suspension/ not the same as yours so the recommendation for a diagnostic check must be the first thing. I guess you have checked the hydraulic oil level.

Welcome to the forum. We had something similar earlier this year where the pump would not stop. Turned out the pump had an electrical fault and needed to be replaced. To stop the battery going flat you may need to disconnect it - if so, follow the advice in the Technical section common problems pinned post, this will avoid odd electrical faults appearing.

A quick look on ebay shows some of the ads do mention the radio will need to be coded, maybe the others will mention it if you buy one.

http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/index.php?/topic/19698-replacing-one-picasso-cdradio-with-another/ This link to our other site for the Picasso gives a bit of info plus an internet search comes up with companies who can code Citroen radios if you provide the VIN or radio serial no. One from a breakers (or a stolen one) would need some coding done on it before it could work in another car - presumably one of these companies could do it and must be worth an enquiry if considering using a radio from a breakers. Based on the above link, you may need the breaker car VIN as well as your own VIN. Citroen parts diagrams say the car VIN is needed when ordering a radio, presumably the new radio would then be supplied already coded for your car.

If the C2 is like our C3 (2003), then sometimes the remote does not work, possibly due to radio interference, and then the key is needed to get in to the car. If you have removed the lock barrel then you would be stuck until the interference went. There is an immobiliser on the car so that should stop it being driven away if somebody did break in whether by the lock or a window. The locks also deadlock from the remote (on the C3 one push on the remote, on the C4 and C5 uses 2 pushes so not sure about the C2) so if somebody got in and tried to use the dash button to unlock it the doors would remain locked. I am not sure if the deadlocks can be undone just using the key in the barrel.

The Citroen radios are linked to the car on which they were first installed and do not use a PIN type security code for such as if the battery was disconnected. So if they are removed, they will not work on another car - so one from a breakers could not be used. So the need for the car VIN is probably needed so the new one can be coded to your car - it will be more complicated than just entering the VIN in the radio, otherwise as you say, the anti theft precaution is gone. As mentioned above, the easiest place to see your VIN (chassis no) is at the bottom right of the windscreen. It is also stamped into the bodywork in a few places and is on the V5C registration document.

Welcome to the forum. If you have the handbook it should explain the locking. If you do not have it, you can see/print them (in sections, I find using the mouse right click. print preview, print works well) from the service.citroen website under documentation de bord, select language then your car. Citroen often provide just one remote locking key fob and a key without the remote - so it looks as if your remote key has been lost. There should also be a button in the middle of the dash (may have a padlock symbol on it) to lock the doors from inside. On most cars, once moving, if this button is held in it will actuate automatic locking when above about 6 mph. You could try the previous owner for the missing key but to get a new one you may need to go to a Citroen dealer who will also need to use diagnostics on the car to synchronise the new key and the old to the car. So cost probably over £100 for key and labour.

The following are from the Citroen manual, they do not mean anything to me but may be of use: Front: Checking values (Tyre dimensions : 215/60 R 16 ; 225/60 R 16) Camber (not adjustable) -0°20' ± 0°30' Castor (not adjustable) 5°30' ± 0°30' Pivot angle (not adjustable) 8°12' ± 0°30' Tracking at the axle (adjustable) -0°09' ± 0°09'Camber dissymmetry : + 0°50' / - 0°24'Castor dissymmetry : ± 0°30'Pivot angle dissymmetry : ± 0°30'Distribute the global parallelism value symmetrically, left wheel-right wheel. Rear:Checking values (Tyre dimensions : 215/60 R 16 ; 225/60 R 16 ; 225/55 R 17 ; 245/45 R 18 ; 245/40 R 19) Camber (not adjustable) -1°56' ± 0°30'Thrust angle 0° ± 0°30'Tracking at the axle (adjustable) 0°43' ± 0°09'Camber dissymmetry : ± 0° 30' You could see if your tyre pressure gauge is accurate and then check if any of the brakes are binding by jacking each wheel and spinning them. Also check the track rod ends have been equally adjusted so the threaded rod part into the ends are the same length. Years ago, I have had new tyres fitted that had different tread patterns to before and the car has pulled to one side, so it is possible tyre choice could have an effect. If it pulls to one side the front strut top bearings could also be worth a look. There is also wheel bearing play/wear, and the list could go on. From previous experiences, if I thought I needed any tracking adjustments I would prefer to go to a dealer or garage rather than a tyre fitting place.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. You will find people here are more than happy to help when needed. There are not that many C8 posts but there are some on the need for early cam belt changes.

Thought this may be worth pinning as an example of turbo failure - signs being clouds of smoke on accelerating and on a car with an exhaust particulate filter.

Other things include any air leaks, disconnected piping, damaged/softened piping, loose electrical connectors, engine temperature measurement.

The fault codes should stay there until somebody deletes them, which may have been done at the dealer.

Service book stamps do not really mean anything and can be done anytime and our service books do not have the various items ticked but only a stamp and date, job number and mileage. You really need the service receipts to see what was paid for and I always keep these, as well as for bits I fit myself to confirm my own service records. If serviced at a Citroen dealer, they keep computer records of what has been done so you should be able to check at the dealer. When buying a car, I suspect that garages would not do a full service if it is not due since this reduces the profit of the sales department who would have to pay the service department. If you do not want to do the oil change yourself, dealers do an express service which includes this and other checks. The proper grade of oil can be expensive if you need a couple of packs, so sometimes this service is not too bad cost wise. You may also find your warranty requires records of servicing at a VAT registered garage.

Welcome to the forum. Also have a look here on the C5 section http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15043-speedometer-repairs/

Welcome to the forum. I will move this post into the questions about the C5 section in a couple of days (and pin it) since posts tend to get lost if not in a section. There is a list I am building up of common problems in the Technical section which may help. A quick look down the contents of each section may give a feel for problems. Generally, as on any car, you need to make sure every thing works. Some things include - windows, doors open from inside and outside, the air con, the suspension is smooth (glides along when you first drive one) and goes up and down on the central button at the handbrake, if you put things in/out of the car the suspension will move down/up but will self level when a door is then closed, it will also adjust when the doors are unlocked with the remote, there should be 2 remote keys, on the estate the rear suspension can be lowered with the boot switch on the right, the rear wheels do not lean in at the top and no knocks/squeaks from the rear suspension (both due to suspension arm bearings wear), try to avoid the 1.6 hdi engine if possible since if not looked after with oil changes it can have turbo failures or at least make sure there is a good service history, the rear boot window should open on its switch under the wiper pivot, check there are no suspension fluid leaks on the front and rear struts and the car should not sink on the suspension when left for some time, there have been reports on problems with auto gearboxes, at around 70k miles plus the diesel particulate filter in the exhaust is due for replacement and the eolys fluid topping up - about £400 or £250 for the system removing, should not be any corrosion/rust, make sure the engine light is not covered with black tape. I use my local dealer Bentleys for parts and servicing (under warranty) but like to do most things my self if it saves money.