paul.h

Have a look under bodywork, front section, front wing and it is called a mudguard 7136 AA for left and 7136 T5 for right. The plastic fixing pins need the inner part pushing in a bit to allow the pin to be removed. It is worth printing the Characterisitics section on your car to see what is fitted - using the right mouse button, then print preview and then print I have found works best when printing. If you get a Haynes manual you will find it does not cover the 2.2 hdi engine. You can get the Citroen manuals from such as ebay for about £4 on 3 dvds to put on your pc and includes the parts diagrams and wiring diagrams.

You can see the Citroen parts diagrams on the service.citroen site by joining as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club. You will then be able to see what bits and fixings you need and get the correct part nos.

Welcome to the forum. Oil in the intercooler is most likely from the turbo. Some is normal but if excessive could point to worn bearings/seals on the turbo. How many miles has it done, since turbo failure on the 1.6 hdi is common and could possibly be linked to infrequent oil changes. It is worth checking the oil drain from the turbo is not blocked. If you do not have an exhaust filter, turbo wear may be noticed by excessive exhaust smoke on start up and when accelerating and when really bad some noise - my experience of a petrol Saab turbo when that was failing but when it went the car was surounded by white smoke. If yours is failing, it may be better to get it sorted before it could cause major damage if bits of metal end up in the engine. To get the correct Citroen part number for your car look on the service.citroen site, join as an other professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club. You can then use your VIN. The long number you quote is the manufacturers number and not the one used by Citroen. Your Citroen dealer will supply a new one - one for our C4 2008 1.6 hdi was about £150 but I am not sure.

Your posts do not mention which model of car you have, if the central locking is working properly and I do not understand what you mean by the 2 catches on the outer parts of the boot - on the C3 hatchback, it is like any boot/hatch door with a single latch in the middle which on closing locks around a stud on the body work. It may well be you need a new switch/latch. With the boot open, you can put a screwdriver through the latch hook and pull it down to maybe undo the lock, then push it back up to close the lock to show it works before pulling it open again so the boot can be closed. If the electric switch is not working and none of the previous posts help, if you pull off the boot plastic trim, you can check if the switch wiring and connector are ok. You should also check the wiring is not broken between the body and the boot in the rubber tubing. Check for a 12 volt supply at the switch.

Welcome to the forum. First thoughts are it may be a lambda sensor in the exhaust - check the wiring/connectors to them but the first one may need replacing, preferably with a good quality one. You could also try cleaning the throttle body around the throttle plate to remove any carbon build up which can affect idling, check the spark plugs are ok, check the engine air filter is clean, there are no air leaks, the engine coolant and inlet air temperature sensors are ok. Ideally, you should use a code reader that shows live data, this will show the temperatures, that both the lambda sensors are ok - the first should be switching values about every second and the second should be steady.

Welcome to the forum. My experience of our Citroens over the last 8 years are they are the most reliable cars we have had. There is a lot of C5 knowledge on this forum and if you have any problems members are happy to help.

I guess that was purely a lucky choice. At least you now know it is not causing the brakes to be keen. I thought it best to pin your post for others who may purchase pads also without any indication of the correct fitting direction. Interestingly the C3 has been out 11 years and this is the first time it has been noted on this forum. So far there have been 157 views of the post so it is of interest to many people.

The following is the Citroen procedure - so it looks as if the car has to be plugged in to a Lexia. Addition or replacement : Vehicle keys C5DH07P0 Addition or replacement : Vehicle keys 1. Remarks When adding or replacing a vehicle key, it is necessary to perform the following operations : Key programming procedure Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controls N.B. : The vehicle keys are allocated to a single BSI. CAUTION : Initialising a new key will require all the keys to be initialised. 2. Diagnostic tools "LEXIA 4171-T" station. "PROXIA 4165-T" station. 3. Registering the keys 3.1. Initialisation procedure using the "LEXIA" diagnostic tool Make the following selections in the diagnostic tool : "DIAGNOSIS" Select the vehicle "GLOBAL TEST" "BSI ECU" "INITIALISATION" "KEY INITIALISATION" Follow the instructions given in the diagnostic tool. 3.2. Initialisation procedure using the " PROXIA" diagnostic tool Make the following selections in the diagnostic tool : "DIAGNOSIS" Select the vehicle "BSI" "LOGO F5" "INITIALISATION" "INITIALISATION OF THE KEYS" Follow the instructions given in the diagnostic tool. N.B. : The "PARAMETER MEASURES" menu can be used to check the number of keys initialised . The number of keys initialised indicates the total number of vehicle keys. The number of HF PLIPS initialised indicates the number of HF keys initialised. 4. Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controls N.B. : When replacing the batteries of an HF PLIP remote control, it is necessary to resynchronise the remote control. Perform the following operations : Put the HF key to be synchronised in position "ignition +" Within the next 10 seconds, press one of the HF key buttons Release the HF key button The ignition key HF PLIP is synchronised. N.B. : Perform these operations for the other keys equipped with HF remote control. Carry out a locking / unlocking test of the vehicle’s doors and tailgate. N.B. : If the locking / unlocking test of the doors and tailgate is not correct, restart the synchronisations of all the ignition keys equipped with HF PLIPS.

I do not know about the C5, but when the fixings on our C3 corroded, it was fixed back using large penny washers (25mm OD), about £1 from Toolstation if you need any.

The 2007 Citroen brochure shows the 2.0 hdi 138 bhp and 2.2 hdi 173 bhp can have manual and auto gearboxes. The 2005 brochure shows the first mark 2s with the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine were only automatics and the 2.0 hdi 138 bhp were only manuals.

If you are going to remove/clean the rear brake calipers, read my pinned note in this section, I revised it recently - one of the benefits of recently becoming a moderator is you can edit old posts.

The brakes on our C3 2003 1.4sx petrol are quite keen, needing very little effort to stop the car, certainly a lot less than our C5 and when swapping between cars takes a bit of getting used to. Probably before you did the work the brakes may not have been cleaned for a few years and seized up a bit, so more effort than normal was required, but you would have got used to it. Now the pads can move freely in the caliper whereas to remove the old ones you probably had to lever them out. The old pads friction surface may also have been glazed. If not already done, you should also clean the rear brakes since these will collect brake dust and the shoes and drum will glaze over. If you replace the rear shoes, note that one is thinner than the other, wrongly leading you to think they have worn badly. Deglaze the friction surfaces on the drums and shoes with such as 180 grit emery paper and clean the drums with brake cleaner. If there is a ridge on the outer edge of the drums scrape/file it off so the drums will go on and remove easier. In the future, if you clean the front brakes do the same, but the pads can be better rubbed on emery paper on a flat surface to deglaze them. When pushing the front pistons in, I have been opening the bleed screw for some time having read the comments as John and also the possibility of reversing the seals on the master cylinder - there may have been a number of cases on Vauxhalls at the time and we had an Astra. These possibilities are noted in the Haynes manual for the C3. If you want to check if the abs is working and the fault light is not on, wait until it is snowy and then at low speed apply the brakes - the pedal will be felt to pulsate.

Note that the engine oil capacities in the Haynes manual for the C3 (2002 to 2005 edition) petrol engines are not correct. It gives a value of 3.5 litres but from the Citroen manual should be 1.1 HFX and 1.4 KFV engines 3.0 litres inc filter change. 1.4 KFU engine 3.75 litres inc filter change. 1.6 NFU 3.25 litres inc filter change. Found this out whilst doing an oil change on our 1.4 KFV, put in 3 litres and planned on adding the next half litre to bring up to max after running the engine, only to find at 3 litres it was already just above the max level (and checks on the sump did not show it had been pushed in).

Our first C5 was reg July 2004 and a mark 1 VTR hatchback with the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine and 6 speed. The Hungaro wheels also were the same as in your photo and according to a brochure I have for Sep 2003 were on the VTR and exclusive and all 2.2 hdi were 6 speed (unless auto). A 2005 brochure for the mark 2 says these wheels were only on the VTR and the exclusive had Suzuka wheels. The first mark 2s with the same 2.2 hdi engine were automatics. The later 2.2 hdi 173 bhp engine appeared a few years later, maybe 2007. So, it is looking as if it is a mark 1. If you go on Parkers car reviews for the C5, there are likely some internal photos showing the dash/radio which changed for the mark 2 as well as external photos. The headlights also changed for the mark 2. The reason for the difference in towbars will likely be the mark 2 rear bumper sticks out more (21mm). If you are going to tow a caravan the mark 1 kerb weights are lower than the mark 2 (manual gearbox, tow weights from brochures but more details are in the car handbooks) - mark 1 2.2 hdi estate 1518 kg (not inc 75 kg for driver) max tow 1450 kg (may reduce on hills if car payload is max) - mark 2 2.2 hdi (173 bhp) estate 1610 kg (not inc 75 kg) max tow 1600 kg - mark 2 2.0 hdi 138 bhp estate 1532 kg (not inc 75 kg) max tow 1600 kg (but reduces on hills if car payload is max)

I have cleaned the front brakes on our C3 today so can add to this topic. The pads were from Citroen (also stamped Textar on the back) and are tapered at one end only, possibly as much as half the pad thickness - so it is not just to help the pads bed in. On the back of the pads are painted direction arrows showing (most likely) the wheel rotation direction, so when installed the taper is at the top end of the pads i.e. at the first point as the brake disc rotates through the pads in forward direction. These have now done 16k miles and the taper has not yet worn away and may well last until the pads are worn down and due for renewal again.

Eurocarparts website shows them at £100 and £125 and there are other sources but I would check at your dealer since I have read on here that sometimes cheaper ones may not work that well and if you go second hand it could be faulty and until it was fitted you would not know. You sometimes find Citroen parts are no dearer than such as Eurocarparts - e.g. a new C3 front brake caliper £76 from Citroen, Eurocarparts website £76 + surcharge of £24 (and full price £189) + a second visit to take the old one back for the refund. My local Eurocarparts prices are usually different to the website as well.

To replace the spark plugs on our 1.4 sx 2003, the ignition cassette has to be removed and if done at the same time as the air filter, the throttle body can be removed (and cleaned) to allow access to no. 2 spark plug (on the C3 they are numbered from the gearbox end). When doing this today, one of the spark plug rubber boots came off the cassette (it is just a push fit) and I noticed the boot holds a spring in place, one end contacts the spark plug and the other what looks like the end of a metal bar in the cassette. This metal bar was covered in green corrosion so is probably copper. The car had been running well and the other 3 plugs were the same. With the corrosion cleaned off and when refitted the car still runs well. I have read that cassette failure may be common so did wonder if it may be due in part to this corrosion building up - something to monitor.

Haynes have now published a manual for the C4 covering - model years 2004 to 2010, - diesels 1.6 and 2.0 DOHC (but not SOHC), - petrol 1.4 and 1.6 (but not 1.6 THP turbo or 2.0), - does not cover bioflex models - does not cover C4 Picasso / Grand Picasso - does not cover new model range from 2011.

I tend to only use our local Sainsburys for fuel unless we are away. But maybe different areas are supplied from different refinerys so the fuel could be slightly different - the standards seem to allow almost anything in the fuel and if you look at Shell's technical data sheets they give a range of the composition. Best ever mpg at about 60 was when I accidentally put in some Shell expensive diesel and shortly after this I found the swirl actuator link had broken so this could have had something to do with it.

When I did the C3 (1.4 petrol) timing belt, I took photos of the old one still in place, especially around the tensioner, to help with refitting in case I could not remember how it went. I also marked the pulleys and old belt and casing with tippex to help with aligning everything. Getting the new tensioner set seemed a bit hit and miss but it has been 2 years since I did it and not had any problems. In Haynes, for the C5 1.6 hdi it says to undo the tensioner bolt to set it but does not mention doing it back up - if you look at the same procedure on the other engines it should be done back up after adjusting the tensioner, before the engine is rotated the 10 times.

You could check the parts numbers on the service.citroen website (if not already a member, join as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club). I have moved your original post since it could not be seen from the initial location.

I guess all the wiring, connections (battery and starter) and earths have been checked. If it is just clicking and the wiring and battery are ok then it could be the solenoid on the starter is not making a good connection to allow the full power to turn the starter - if the starter is accessible, a jump lead could be used to provide a supply direct to the motor bypassing the solenoid to show this. Or maybe the starter motor electrical brushes are worn. Who is going to pay for the work, you or the garage which could explain the reluctance to fix the car. How many miles has the car done ?

I always used to get 50+ mpg out of our previous 2004 2.2 hdi hatchback on motorways and would only be less if it was caused by bad weather/headwind/queues/driving at the speed limit which would drop it to about 45 mpg or towing the caravan (then about 30 mpg).

Another possible cause could be damage to the wiring loom where it goes between the body and hatch door. The wires break in the rubber protective tube and apparently is a common failure. Can also affect other electrics on the door.

I have found the Citroen rubber floor mats for the mark 1 C4 (to 2010) are a better fit in the mark 2 C4 (2010 on) so when we changed the cars I put the old mats in the new one and the new mats are gathering dust in the garage. The floor pan looks to be the same but the earlier mats are larger. In the driver's footwell I cut out around the left foot rest and then stuck velcro on the back of this piece to hold it on to the foot rest - after 1½ years it is still in place.