paul.h

Topic pinned. Also there are some others in the same link of interest, one being a quick comparison of a dmf and single flywheel replacement. It mentions the single may give a bit of vibration compared to the dmf which can damp more - I hope this is not the problem that Arak is having but in his case the vibration goes as the engine warms..

Originally posted by Rookie2: just wondered if you had seen this quick animation. It may be worth posting somewhere as a sticky for those interested in the construction and makeup of a DMF https://uk.video.sea...099&action=view

For the vibration - coastline suggested in post 9 to unplug the egr valve as a test. According to the Haynes manual it is at the back of the cylinder head at the battery end. To remove the egr valve lots of things in the way need removing such as the air filter, but to just unplug it may not need this. - Rookie2 in post 8 has also suggested the crankshaft pulley needs to be checked in case the rubber insert is breaking up.

With the MOT tester not being allowed to take the car apart to check the power supply to the light, then I guess this is why the tester is to give the benefit of doubt to the car owner, hence the advisory since the rules only require the 2 side brake lights. Common sense though says if there is a light it should work, otherwise it can lead to confusion/later braking for following vehicles. Plus having the high level brake light, it is safer for following vehicles and the one with the light. Also helps when cars use their rear fog lights so it is hard to see the side brake lights. I was reading the test of the towbar 13 pin socket. If there is one, this should be tested unless the towball has been removed and the towball mounting modified so the towball can not be put back. Plus if the socket is behind a cover, this has to be removed to get to the socket. This covers the type of towball that is removable but also covers bolted ones. Why not just say if there is a socket it has to be tested. There are reported problems though of some approved socket testers that do not work but I have not had a problem at Citroen dealers.

The MOT manual can be seen/saved from here, the latest version is January 2017. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-inspection-manual-for-class-3-4-5-and-7-vehicles

Welcome to the forum. Is it 200k km or miles and have you done most of these ? From your user name I was expecting something about bikes.

Good to hear it has been fixed and at no cost. For the MOT the rear doors will need to be able to open from the inside so a permanent fix may be needed eventually.

Welcome to the forum. According to the Citroen service box procedures (2012), to change the xenon bulb, first remove the cover from the back of the light, then turn the complete bulb unit anti clockwise to unlock it and then pull it out, disconnect the electrical connector. The bulb can then be removed. Do not touch the glass on the bulbs with bare hands. If you want to remove a headlight, the bumper needs removing to get to a bolt at the bottom of the light and a clip at the top of the light needs turning. £350 seems a lot for a small service (oil/filter, maybe an air filter and cabin filter, a few checks) but your labour rates may be high. The service box procedures can be bought through ebay and come on 3 dvds to install on your computer.

To replace the clutch the gearbox has to be removed and to get at the bolts at the top, the air filter and ducting will have been removed, including the MAF and maybe some other connections. I would have a good look in this area to see if you can spot anything that has not been connected up again.

Welcome to the forum. There is a Haynes manual for the C5 which you will find useful if you do your own maintenance. For the MOT I believe the high level brake light is only an advisory if it does not work. To remove this light it says to open the glass door in the tailgate, undo the 4 torx bolts holding the rear spoiler to the tailgate, disconnect the wiring plug and washer tube, there are a couple of plastic (hinge ?) covers that need removing to access plastic clips to free the spoiler, then remove the spoiler (put a sheet or something soft on the roof to avoid paint scratches), undo the 2 bolts and remove the high level brake light. If you are fitting a new one then a bit of black sealant around the red lens should stop water getting in.

This does not sound right, possibly the garage that fit the new clutch has not connected everything back. The new clutch should not affect the acceleration. The clutch pedal needing less effort I think is normal when a new one is put in but in time it may require more - at least this is what I have found. The smell will be from bits/dust of the old clutch and should go gradually. Maybe leave it a few days and see if it goes, if not the area around the engine where you saw the smoke might need wiping with a damp cloth to remove the dust. The pollen filter might also have some dust in it.

The op has not been back yet to read the replies so I would not bother adding to this topic.

That is what I suspected but I do not want to waste time looking up solutions to problems on the wrong model year or for 2 model years, I spend enough time already on here. Much better for the poster to get back and provide the correct info first. Once issus gets back to us I will edit the topic title and the post.

The parts diagrams give the right (driver's) blade as 642337 and the left as 642339. The right one looks longer in the picture but you can check with a search using the part nos..

Just had a look at the Citroen Service box procedures and it gives 18 minutes to replace the engine fuse box and makes no mention of any diagnostic procedures. There are 7 different part numbers for the engine fuse box depending on the year of the car and the options on the car - if you get one from a Citroen dealer using your car VIN it will be the correct one for your car. When disconnecting/reconnecting the car battery do not do it too quickly since the bsi needs time to shutdown/start up. I have found the following from the Common Problems procedure has worked ok: 11. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

German cars may not be more reliable than Citroens, it is just they get that message out by their adverts. Mercedes are known for rusting and BMWs can also rust - have a look at a few 10 year old cars. I think some VW diesels (and maybe Skoda/Seat/Audi) may be prone to high pressure fuel pump and oil pump problems. I knew somebody with a diesel VW Polo where the clutch failed and was replaced but then 5000 miles later it failed again since the dealer did not replace the dmf. Servicing costs for them may also be higher - all things to check when you eventually decide to go for one.

I think the car years are a bit mixed up, is it a 2005 or 2009 model since the C3 came out in 2003 it can not be a 1995 or 1959 model. It is up to you how long you wait to do the belt, but if you are keeping the car then at some point it will need doing, so sooner rather than later may be best then you do not need to worry about it. Do the tensioner, any pulleys and the water pump at the same time.

Pasting your link into google comes back with images of the engine fuse box, called by Citroen the BSM which is not the bsi which is in the glove box. The bsm is not that expensive, as an example of a used one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C4-under-bonnet-Bsm-fuse-box-module-9657718580-BSM-L04-00-S118983004K-/361821275635?hash=item543e3a85f3 but I would ask at a Citroen dealer for the cost of a new one since if your failure is a common one then a used one may also have problems. They will also give you the cost to fit it but I suspect it may not take too long since it looks to only need one bolt and a few electrical connectors to fit it. The ebay listing says it needs programming but I am still not sure about this.

Arak, I think your above posts read ok without needing to edit them but if editing is needed it can be done by a moderator. The test apart, your clutch was already worn out before you tested it shown when it slipped/gave the smell in Snowdonia. All the test has done is confirm it needed replacing. If the clutch had been ok the engine would have stalled straight away, never mind in 2 or 3 seconds. You may have got a few more days or possibly weeks out of it without the test but then it might have failed when trying to go up a hill and not at home. So I would not feel too bad about it, it is just unfortunate the car is costing you a lot to keep in good repair, I suspect you might not want another Citroen or diesel after this one. Until recent years, I used to get older, high mileage cars but found I was spending a lot of time and money repairing them. When I had enough money to start buying newer lower mileage cars I found they were overall costing similar amounts but I got my weekends back to do other things since they were only needing servicing.

Welcome to the forum. Did the engine management light come on - if so a code reader will give you a good idea of what is wrong with the car, just in case it is not a fuse box problem. Note that the bsi is the fuse box in the dash/glove box and not the fuse box in the engine. If you are only referring to the engine fusebox I think this can be replaced without the need for any programming, but I am not sure. If you go for a used one it will need to be from a car the same as yours including any options. You need also to find out how the water got in, check the cover is on properly and any seals are ok, check the wiring to it in case any are causing water to get in - on the C3 there have been cases reported where water can go along the washer pump wiring in to the fuse box. Check the seal at the top of the bulkhead and also check the drains at the ends of the bulkhead are not blocked with leaves. Have you also considered using a hair dryer on the fuse box to dry it out if you are convinced this is the problem. You should also check that all the fuses are intact including the maxi fuses. Also have a look for any damaged wiring that may have shorted out against the bodywork. There is a Haynes manual for the C4 which may help doing any repairs to your car.

Sorry to hear this. It looks as if you will need a new dmf and clutch. Do not bother with a second hand one this time since you have no idea how good it is, even if low miles it may have been abused/used for lots of short trips so many gear changes. Also a new one will have a guarantee. You might also consider having a solid flywheel/clutch kit installed instead of the dmf - the cost will probably be similar but you will not get a dmf failure in the future.

From these I think your coolant temp sensor is probably ok, showing 6°C and being in London where it is warmer than elsewhere - here it was below freezing until the sun came up.

We could still do with knowing what the engine coolant temperature is before the car is started from cold. If it is reading high it will give the wrong fuel/air mixture so will not run smoothly. The other thing that affects the running when warming up is the glow plugs - people say these are not needed until it gets below freezing but others say they are still used to minimise emissions as the engine warms.

Some of the posts in this topic include updating to the latest version which may help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23278-lexia-diagbox-pp2000-topics-13112016/

Having a second thought with both doors being affected, I wonder if it is something to do with the child locks. I do not have a manual for a 2004 car but in one for a 2008 Berlingo it says the child locks can be done manually as well as electrically. If not already done you could try to put the child locks on and off using both methods to see if it makes a difference. This is copied from the 2008 manual from here http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ Manual mode A label indicates the location of the child lock. - Open fully past the point of resistance. - Tilt the lever, located on the rear section of the door. Depending on the confi guration of your vehicle, a message confi rming the activation of the child lock appears on the display. Electric mode With the ignition on, press this button. The diode comes on, accompanied by a message on the display. Warning: this system is independent of the central locking control. Always remove the ignition key when leaving the vehicle, even for a short time. It is advisable to check the activation of the child lock each time the ignition is switched on. In the event of a serious impact the electric child lock is deactivated automatically.