paul.h

You can look at the handbook for the later car in this link which might show any differences you will notice, you may need to select your language first and then the C4 Picasso and then the year. A quick look in one for the 2011 year still mentions the pneumatic suspension so it must have been available then. http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

Other thoughts are maybe the wrong rating fuse is installed, according to the Haynes manual it should be fuse 17 in the engine fuse box 30 amp but I would check this with your handbook if you have it. Also maybe there is a problem with the motor so it is earthing the feed wire rather than going through the motor. You could see how many amps it is drawing by putting an ammeter in line with the supply, but it would obviously need to take at least 30 amps. It might be the motor needs cleaning internally or replacing. There is a similar topic on here where the suspension pump would not run but once cleaned it was ok. The 2008 on C5 can suffer with wiper motor problems. The following are copied from the C5 common problems topic: 43. New C5 (X7) front wipers not working properly. Before replacing one of the 2 wiper motors, it may be possible to do a fix to the motor wiring pins - see this topic from c5vtr http://www.citroen-o...x7-wiper-motor/ 54. Suspension pump not running. Before replacing the pump, check the relay first. See this topic by danshrekman76 http://www.citroen-o...re-relay-fault/ On the C5 (X7) 2008 on model, check the pump fuse in the battery fuse box http://www.citroen-o...ery-fuses-list/ In this topic by 3001pv, the pump fuse kept blowing. The pump motor end plate was removed and a black mess of grease and carbon brush dust was cleaned out and the pump now works normally http://www.citroen-o...ult-code-p1351/

Welcome to the forum. There is a Haynes manual for the C5 that is worth getting https://www.amazon.co.uk/Citroen-C5-Service-repair-manuals/dp/1844257452/ref=pd_sim_14_2/253-9839662-8938622?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N1ECP56P8YF30T5VV9Q0 When you ran the motor off the car did you try it with a fuse of the same rating as on the car, just to see if it was taking too much current ? With the motor off did you check the wipers move freely and are not seized anywhere (I think this is what you have said) ?

To get a workshop manual you can get the Citroen service box through ebay. It comes on 3 dvds to install on your computer. If you are ok with French, then there is also the RTA manual which is similar to a Haynes one https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Books/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-C5-Hdi-Depuis-2008/2726873758 I think it was coastline taxis who suggested using a dealer, so not a Citroen dealer. Below is the oil change procedure for the AM6 auto box from the service box procedure for the 2008 on C5 (X7) - if the oil temp is too hot when checking the oil level then the amount will not be enough, if it is too cold then the amount will be too much. Note that euro 4 and euro 5 engines use different oil in the gear box: 2. Drain and refillCAUTION : The gearbox must be drained when the oil is hot (60 °C minimum), to eliminate the impurities suspended in the oil.N.B. : The oil change is partial, since the converter cannot be totally drained. Put the vehicle on a hoist.Remove :The protective panel under the engineThe top-up plug; Using a TORX socket wrenchThe oil overflow and drainage plug ; Using a 6 -sided wrench (note the level plug is in the middle of the drain plug)N.B. : Approximately 3 litres of oil should flow out.3. RefillingRefit :The oil overflow and drainage plug (equipped with a new seal)The top-up plug ; Using a TORX socket wrenchRemove :The air filter housingThe filler capUse tool [0340] topping up cylinder.CAUTION : Ignore the information mentioned on the tool [0340].CAUTION : The oil type "AW-1" in AT6 and AM6 gearboxes with engine version Euro 5 is specific and cannot be replaced with oil type ""JWS 3309"".Dry gearbox oil capacity : 7 litres (approx.).Type of oil (Red) :EURO 5 engine : AW-1 oilEURO 4 engine : JWS 3309 ESSO oilVolume of oil remaining after draining : 4 litres (approx.).Quantity of oil to be replaced : 3 litres (approx.).Refit the filler plug (equipped with a new seal).Initialise the used oil counter (follow the diagnostic tool procedure). 4. Check the oil levelPrior conditions :Vehicle levelCheck that the gearbox is not in downgrade modeRemove the filler plugAdd 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearboxApply the brakes firmly and move the lever through the various selector positionsGear lever in position "P"Engine running at idleOil temperature 60°C (+ 8 ; - 2 °C) (measuring of parameters using a diagnostic tool)Remove the oil level plug.4.1. Stream of oil then reducing to a sequence of dripsRefit the oil level plug. 4.2. Sequence of drips or nothingRefit the oil level plug.Stop the engine.Add 0,5 additional litres of oil in the gearbox.Repeat the top-up procedure.N.B. : The level of oil is correct when the stream of oil becomes drop by drop.Refit the oil level plug (equipped with a new seal). 4.3. Check the oil level (continued)Refit :The filler cap (equipped with a new seal)The air filter boxThe protective panel under the engineToo high a fluid level can cause :Overheating of the fluidFluid leaksToo low a level will lead to destruction of the gearbox.

Welcome to the forum. Is it a 2001 to 2008 C5 or the 2008 on model ? On the C5 technical section there is a pinned topic of common problems to have a look at and on the 2008 on model the steering rack leaking oil is a common one that can need a new or recon steering rack to fix, so costs about £300 to £1000. Check this before taking the car. Also on the 2008 on model the windscreen wiper motors can fail, also about £300 to fix. Make sure the windows go down and up ok since the cables can break. Being an exclusive it will have the hydractive suspension - if you ever go under the car use axle stands since if one of the height sensors is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level, quicker than you can get out of the way. Also raise the suspension to max height before you jack it up to avoid any suspension problems.

The Xsara Picasso is a bit unusual in that it has a false floor with a gap under it where water can collect between this floor and the floor pan. If you open the rear floor cupboard doors you can see it if you move the inside container sides to one side and on our Picasso you could see the water that had collected at the driver's side. The sound proofing on the floor pan soaks up the water and never dries out so if you find this I would remove it and remove the floor rubber drain bung to let the water out rather than build up. You could even remove the floor bungs as a check to see if water drains out. As well as the door drains you should also check the sill drains and the air con drain are clear. The air con one can be by running it and seeing if water drips on the ground approx under the driver's seat. You also need to check the coolant level in case the heater matrix has a leak which would give a burnt curry smell inside the car. If the pollen filter has not been changed recently this could be blocked restricting the air flow - the picasso needs this changing often anyway since it can lead to the ignition switch burning out if neglected.

Odd electrical problems are sometimes due to a low battery voltage so if you have a voltmeter I would check this. Your car is now about 6 years old which is about right for the battery to be on its way out and the link in post 2 seems to be due to the battery, but the disconnection to charge it may have helped. Before starting the engine the voltage should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts, any lower and it needs charging. I think Citroen radios are coded to the bsi and do not need a code entering if the battery is disconnected, but if it is not the original radio then that could be different. On the radio for our C5 there is a reset button that the handbook says can be used if the sat nav stops working, so something to check. If you replace the battery do not disconnect/reconnect it too quickly since the bsi needs time to shutdown or odd electrical problems can occur. This is from the C4 Common Problems topic: 11. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). In the handbook for the 2015 C4 it says to wait at least 2 minutes after switching off the ignition before disconnecting the battery and when reconnecting, to wait at least a minute after switching on the ignition before starting the engine.

Maybe it happens when the bsi fuse box has shut down, which takes a minute or so after the engine is switched off, the key removed and the doors shut. If so then the bsi reset is something to consider. There are various versions of a bsi reset on the internet and one is here http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15093-bsi-reset/ You could also test the batery voltage in case it is low since sometimes this can cause odd electrical problems.

The problem is if you look at the alternatives the choice is not brilliant. If you do not live in a big town, do lots of miles, tow a caravan, etc. the alternatives to diesel are not good. So it looks as if many of us will need to keep our older cars going for some time. We recently had a look at what C4 petrols are available and it is only a 1.2 litre 3 cylinder turbo charged - no 1.6 or 2.0 litre ones, so probably on the motorway the small engine would be revving a lot. Now Citroen no longer make the C5 (X7) the choice of a new Citroen car heavy enough to pull a caravan for us has gone and they only seem to have made a 1.6 petrol one which would not have been suitable for towing.

I have read on here it is best to get a dealer to change the auto box oil since the oil temperature has to be correct to get the level right. It is not possible to drain all the oil so needs a couple of changes.

An additional thought, is the cabin air intake set to recirculation rather than the outside ? If so most cars would steam up unless the air conditioning was running.

A look in the handbook lists a few fuses covering the lights but none seem to be for the side lights. PASSENGER'S SIDE FASCIA PANEL FUSES Fuses A (amps) Allocation 12 7.5 Right-hand dipped headlamp 13 7.5 Left-hand dipped headlamp - Headlamp height adjuster 31 7.5 Relay supply 32 10 Minibus interior lighting - Hazard warning lights 35 7.5 Reversing lights - Water in diesel sensor 37 10 Brake lights switch - Third brake light - Instrument panel 38 10 Interior relays 42 7.5 ABS control unit and sensor - ESP sensor - Brake lights switch 53 7.5 Instrument panel - Rear fog lamps Driver's pillar fuse box 58 10 Direction indicators Engine fuse box 14 7.5 Right-hand main beam headlamp 15 7.5 Left-hand main beam headlamp 30 15 Front fog lamps

Welcome to the forum. I have edited the title to include automatic. What year is the car ? I have never driven an auto box car so am unable to say if a whine is normal, but hopefully there will be other replies. Any whine I've had on a gear box has been due to wear from high mileage.

On our cars you can put the side lights on without the key in the ignition. Also the hazards lights will work without the key in the ignition. I am only guessing but your problem could be a fault with the switch block under the steering wheel but since these are expensive you would need it confirming first. Sometimes odd electrical problems can be sorted by a bsi reset or a battery disconnection/reconnection. Your handbook may give advice on disconnecting the battery but I have found the following from the C4 Common Problems topic has not given any problems: 11. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). In the handbook for the 2015 C4 it says to wait at least 2 minutes after switching off the ignition before disconnecting the battery and when reconnecting, to wait at least a minute after switching on the ignition before starting the engine.

Also have a read of this where it appears an alternator fault was preventing the stop/start working. The poster O.C.D. has not reported back though so we do not know if a new alternator fixed the car. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24025-a-reverse-alternator-puzzled/ Since your car is still under the Citroen 3 year warranty, I would not expect any repairs to cost you anything. If you are not happy with your dealer you can use another Citroen dealer who may be more sympathetic to fixing any fault.

Did the new alternator fix the problem ?

Maybe your van has parking lights that are set by the position of the indicator stalk ?

Possibly there is a problem with the motor or its connection to the reflector. You can get a new motor, possibly part no. 6224A9 or 6224C0 depending on your car VIN.

As you suspect, if the battery is down on voltage a bit or there are many electrical things in use, then the stop/start will not work. We have stop/start on our C4 but I always switch it off since the cost of repairs due to possibly needing a new battery or a new starter/alternator are many £100s and I have seen reports of these items having a short life. If you look up the battery cost they are not a standard lead/acid battery and they are over £200 and I think I have seen the starter/alternator as many times this. If you have a voltmeter you could check the battery voltage but on most cars this time of year it tends to be down a bit, especially if the trips are short ones.

Some of the increase will be the increases to insurance tax.

Welcome to the forum. Have a look in the rear floor cupboards in front of the back seat. These commonly fill with water that gets in through the rear doors if the door card plastic seal is damaged or the door drains are blocked. if you put a bit of talc on the carpet between these cupboards and the doors when raining you may see a wet trail. We had a 2005 Picasso and it got water in the driver's floor under the false floor which could be seen when the rear cupboard was opened. I never found out how it was getting in.

Not sure if I have the right engine, but from the Citroen service box procedures for the Xantia 2, 2.0 litre hdi the thermostat should start to open at 83°C, the fan 1st speed starts at 97°C, the 2nd speed at 105°C, the high temp warning at 118°C, the air con cuts out at 115°C. The expansion tank cap is set at 1.4 bar which is equivalent to steam at 126°C, but if the head gasket has failed it can vent based on pressure and not temperature. So if the gauge is showing 110°C and there is not a problem, the sensor may be faulty. Usually the engine fans on cars do not run that often since the temp is usually below the setting, in your case the 97°C.

On the C5 Technical Section there is a pinned topic of Common Problems and on the C5 Problems and Fixes section there are pinned topics on the brakes - these are all worth looking at if you do your own maintenance. Also the Haynes manual for the C5 is a must buy, unless you also got one with the car.

You would need to decide which car you liked the most. The extra 17k miles on the VW though is equivalent to another 1½ to 2 years older in your mileage, effectively making it an older car in terms of wear. It seems odd the tank needs replacing, how did the previous owner fill it up, unless maybe it was damaged syphoning the old fuel out so there was hardly any left for the new owner.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the update. I guess you will also be living with the growl.