paul.h

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Fuel filter replacement intervals vary with models and will be in your Warranty and Maintenance book but could be every 2 years on the 1.6 hdi but your car is a high mileage so it may be due based on mileage. At your annual miles services will probably be every 12500 miles and not every year (or possibly 2 years). With the 1.6 hdi it is not recommended to go beyond the service interval and you should use the Citroen recommended oil (or one that meets the relevant PSA spec) which could be Total INEO ECS 5w30 but will be in the Warranty and Maintenance book.

This is based on Citroen's procedure and it includes removing the complete filter housing before removing the top. 2. RemovingDisconnect the battery. (this might not be necessary)Remove the front protection under the engine. Pour the diesel filter bowls cleaning product index "N3" into the cleaning tray (if being used to clean out the filter bowl).Clean the unions of the 2 pipes on the fuel filter Using a paint brush .CAUTION : Plug the orifices when uncoupling a pipe ; (plugs are probably supplied with the new filter element)Uncouple and then plug the 2 pipes. (these might have a coloured tab that needs pushing in to release the pipes)CAUTION : Plug the ducts on the fuel filter.Unplug The electrical connector(s) on the filterUnclip the fuel filter assembly (towards the top).Remove the fuel filter. Mark a reference on the top ring between the references on the top and filter bowl.Loosen the top ring - Using a pipe wrench (on a workbench).Remove the filter element.3. Cleaning the fuel filterPour the diesel filter bowls cleaning product index "N3" into the cleaning tray.Clean the fuel filter bowl (Using a paint brush) and then drain the fuel filter.Dry and wipe the fuel filter Using a lint-free cloth (available from Replacement Parts).4. RefittingCAUTION : Open the sachet containing the new filter element just before refitting.Fit the new filter element .Tighten the top ring until the marks are aligned ; Using a pipe wrench.Refit : The fuel filter.Connect the electrical connector(s)Remove the plugs. To bleed air out of the filter and fill it, it is suggested to connect up a pipe to bypass the fuel return but this is probably not needed and I did not need to do this on our C5 but it has a priming hand pump/bulb.. CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery (if the battery was disconnected).Reconnect the battery.Switch on the ignition 10 times in succession without starting to prime the fuel circuit. (it may be necessary to repeat this) 5. Bleed procedure / Checking for leaksStart the engine.Check the absence of leaks.CAUTION : Declutch and accelerate fully at the same time for 3 minutes.N.B. : The engine speed is limited to 2500 rpm in clutch anti-centrifugation strategy and the fuel pressure is regulated.Check the absence of leaks.Carry out a road test.Check the absence of leaks. Refit the protective shield under the engine .

Welcome to the forum. Which engine do you have, how many miles and is the servicing up to date including replacing the fuel filter ? Has the engine management light come on and have you had any diagnostic checks ? Have there been any mods such as the dpf being removed ?

Welcome to the forum. Is the servicing up to date including replacing the fuel filter or if not due for replacement any water drained from it ? Have you tried filling the fuel tank up at a different garage ? When this happens, is the accelerator pedal always in the same position and if you adjust the pedal a bit (push down or up a bit) does this make a difference ?

I think Citroen may have sized the adblue tank (possibly around 17 litres) so there should be enough to last between services but if you run out it will prevent the engine running. You may find the tank filler nozzle could be in the boot but if you do add any make sure you do not spill it since it will stink the boot out until you can clean it out - a neighbour accidentally spilt some in the boot of a VW when the container fell over, it dried out but left a covering of crystals.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum and thankyou for the help.

The panel has to come off anyway to fit the mirror, so I would remove it, try the new mirror and if it does not work then leave the panel off until you have a mirror you are happy with which if a dealer order will likely be 1 or 2 days (if you are not in a hurry, a dealer may be able to get the part cheaper and offer you a lower price, so worth asking). You could always try for a used one through ebay

If you know the make of towbar, you can go on their website and check for installation instructions since many makers put them on-line. As an example from Witter: http://www.witter-towbars.co.uk/uMedia/FittingInstructions/PG26A.pdf I would give the towbar a check over to make sure its condition is good. Any bolts and nuts are likely to be high tensile ones, possibly 8.8 or higher but you should check with a towbar supplier since ordinary bolts will not be strong enough and you may find a supplier can provide a kit of fittings.http://www.witter-towbars.co.uk/towbars/faq7.php

You could remove the door card and connect up the new mirror to see what happens. If it does not work then connect up the old one. Did the supplier say the new mirror was compatible with the car ? I have found before that copy parts do not always fit or work as well as dealer supplied ones and unless the cost difference is great, no longer do it.

The bsi reset does not cost anything so can be tried and if it does not help then replace the sensor.

'the engine is being overcooled when in motion but maintains the correct temperature when stationary which rules out the thermostat and can only be the sensor' This to me means the thermostat is faulty since it should be closing a bit to reduce the coolant flow to the radiator when moving so the engine temperature is kept constant. It is probably opening early or too much. A new thermostat can be faulty, I had this once on a Saab. For the sensor to be causing this it would need to be switching the fan(s) on when moving but off when stationary.

Welcome to the forum. With the replacement ecu kit, did the immobiliser problem go - if so what parts are in the kit ?

Sounds like a gearbox reverse switch is not working but I do not know how reverse is detected on an auto gearbox and you have already pointed out it does not have a switch.

When registering you need to start with Registration, then Other professionals except Emergency services etc. (this is allowed in the terms and conditions if a member of a car club) Then for the company name use the Citroen Owners Club

The oil level sensor on this engine is at the front, just a bit to the gearbox side and below the oil filter and is like a long probe that goes down in to the sump. So you could have a look, pull off the connector, check it is clean and put it back to see if it helps. Citroen part no. 1131K6 (but if buying check against your VIN)

Welcome to the forum. On the C5 technical section there is a pinned topic of common problems to have a look at, not all for the X7 model since it covers the earlier ones also. Your photo is interesting, is this a hobby or work ?

Welcome to the forum. Maybe you could try a bsi reset. There is a pinned procedure in the C5 technical section you could follow.

What is the engine bhp since there are a few different engines listed in the parts diagrams, or you could put the letters from the VIN on here so it can be looked up. You could also look at the parts diagrams, a free service on service.citroen if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp In the parts diagrams use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car and then you will find the aux belt and its tensioner under Electric unit / Engine electricity / Current generation / Alternator and fixings. For the Berlingo M59 model I had a look under all the 1.6 hdi engines with and without air con and every one I found had a tensioner, part number 8 on the diagrams.

Welcome to the forum. Possibly the driver's air bag is faulty and needs replacing or maybe its wiring in the steering wheel. If you try a replacement air bag from a scrap car, it is possible it could have the same fault.

Welcome to the forum. What year is your C5 and which engine does it have ? Possibly the level sensor wiring or electrical connector is faulty. As long as you keep checking the oil level with the dipstick there is nothing to really worry about. On our latest C4 Citroen have stopped fitting a level sensor so you have to revert to manually checking the level. The sensor is probably at the back of the engine so not easy to access without going underneath but it could be removed and dipped in oil to see if it works. If you have hydractive suspension, before going under the car raise the suspension to max height, remove the ignition key and use axle stands to support the car - if not and a height sensor is knocked the suspension can quickly drop to a low level.

A quick look on Autotrader shows you can get a C5 from about £300. It would be tempting on your car to just get the judder sorted if it is a low cost (or go back to ATS since if the judder went for a few weeks after replacing the discs again, surely it points to them being the problem. I can not remember if it juddered before you ever went to ATS.) and then not bother with the cam belt. Then run the car until the belt fails and then get another car. The ECP calipers might be reconditioned ones. If faced with about £400 for the cam belt work, about £300 if you replace the calipers, about £200 for rear discs and pads and then maybe a service, you could be faced with about £1000 this year if you have the work done. Probably better see what else you could get to replace it before committing to the work.

I would get an idea of the cost to do all these jobs and then see if you can change the car for the same amount. Older C5s do not cost much, if you wanted another one. Our dealer charges about £350 to replace the cam belt/tensioner and about another £100 to also change the water pump and coolant. You might also replace the auxiliary belt at the same time and at least check its pulleys. A possible source of a knocking noise could be the crankshaft pulley, sometimes the rubber insert can break up. A possible knocking noise from the front suspension could be a worn drop link on the anti roll bar but I do not think you would feel this, only hear it. Is the brake judder the same as when the abs kicks in and is felt through the brake pedal ?

When you replaced the ignition barrel, was it the electric switch you replaced or the lock, just thinking there may be play in the lock so the switch is not being fully turned off. http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=57401