paul.h

There seems to be 2 types of dynamic roller tensioners depending on the engine - the DV6ETED M 55 KW - on this one a socket is used on the tensioner pulley bolt to turn it clockwise to release the tension and then a rod is put in a hole in the back plate at the bottom to stop the tensioner unwinding. The belt can then be removed. This tensioner may be part no. 575189. - the DV6DTED M - on this one the tensioner at the top has a peg over which a tool is used so it can be turned clockwise to a stop to release the tension. Then a rod is inserted in to a hole in the back plate and against the peg so the tensioner can not unwind when the tool is removed. The belt should now be free so it can be removed/replaced. This tensioner may be part no. 5751F3.

Have a look in the parts diagrams to see what is available then use the Citroen part number in ebay to find the bits (or from a dealer if you want new ones). The diagrams are a free service if you register on service.citroen as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

How many miles has it done ? For it to continue running needs a fuel supply (maybe a fuel shut off valve is not closing but the injectors would need to work unless they are leaking) and an ignition source - if the electrics are switched off this could be a carbon build up. Maybe you could unplug the ignition barrel when it should be switched off to see if the engine stops.

Maybe try to clean the pipe flange and use something like instant gasket on it and then the new seal - if it works then you know a new pipe will work.

Check the air filter has been replaced when the car was serviced. Also clean the throttle plate since if this is blocked with carbon/oil it will not let enough air through to maintain the idle speed - this is usually done each service, it can be cleaned using a carburettor cleaner or a cloth soaked in white spirit/turps.

Please also remind us which car it is for.

Oil leaks are common on that engine, the rubber oil seal in the head gasket can perish but usually the oil will leak out of the left hand end of the gasket as you look at the engine from in front of the car. You should fit another thermostat though since without one the cabin will not heat up much and the engine will always be cold leading to poor fuel economy and engine running. You might be able to just replace the thermostat but it usually comes as part of the plastic housing since these may not last forever. Possibilities to check for the coolant boiling: - the expansion tank cap is not tight so when the coolant heats up it is boiling out of the tank. The engine should not be run without the cap on the tank, otherwise the coolant will boil out. If the cap is faulty or its rubber seal is faulty, a new cap from a Citroen dealer is only about £3. - the engine fan is not coming on so when the engine gets too hot the coolant is not being cooled. It should switch on at 96°C on the first speed and the second speed if the temperature goes higher. It switches off at 94°C. Check the temperatures with a code reader with live data. - the coolant temperature sensor (there are 2 on the 1.4 petrol) is faulty so it is giving a low value so the engine fan is not being switched on. Use a code reader with live data to see if the value seems about right. - the air was not bled out of the coolant when it was filled - the 1.4 petrol is difficult to fill with coolant. When the engine was started could you hear any bubbles going round in the cabin heater ? There are 2 air bleed points, one on the cabin heater hose and one on the thermostat housing part on the end on the cylinder head. Citroen use a funnel on the expansion tank to raise the coolant level so the air can be bled out and this is shown in the Haynes manual but you could try with the gearbox side of the car raised on the jack so that end of the cylinder head is highest, or use a vacuum pump such as a Mityvac to suck the air out of this bleed point. - the head gasket was not put on correctly or the bolts were not tightened correctly. - the cylinder head is warped. - the cylinder head is porous. - the engine block is not flat at the head joint or maybe the old gasket was not cleaned off the block or the head. - the cylinder liners are not sealing properly. - the radiator is blocked so the coolant is not being cooled. - the coolant pump impeller has come off the spindle.

I can not remember what the dash looks like, but generally in automatic it will select the various flap positions to heat the windscreen for defrosting - so if you manually change the vent selection to such as the footwell or central vents, it should go off automatic. If the outside is below about 6°C the air con will not work to prevent it freezing up, leaving only heating and cooling but without the air con.

When were the brakes last serviced and cleaned ? The brake pads and rear brake shoes (or pads if discs at the rear) should be removed and the brake dust cleaned off since they can seize up requiring more effort on the brake pedal. Also the brake caliper pistons can seize. As John has said, the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years including the clutch fluid if it is hydraulic (not sure if the C1 uses a cable). You should also check if the brake servo is working - with the engine off, push the brake pedal down a few times until the pedal goes hard to expel the servo vacuum , then keeping a foot on the brake pedal, start the engine and the pedal should go down. If it does not go down further or there was no vacuum in the servo, then there may be a servo problem. After doing this test get back to us if you think the servo is not working. This should have been checked as part of the MOT - what type of garage did the service and MOT ?

To jump from 3 bars to 5 bars possibly suggests the gauge was at the top of 3 bars and maybe once 10 litres were put in it was at the bottom of 5 bars. I do not know how many bars the gauge has but for example if there are 10 and if the tank holds 60 litres, then 1 bar could be about up to 6 litres and adding 10 litres would be about 1.5 bars. If you now have about 30 litres you would expect the available range to go up to about 300 miles once you have been running for a few miles if you normally get about 45 mpg (10 m/litre). However, if you find the gauge does not go down and up steadily as the fuel is used up and added, then maybe there is a problem with the gauge level sensor in the fuel tank.

You are best to use the recommended oil, especially since extended mileages up to 20k miles or 2 years if sooner are the normal service interval, depending on the engine. I do not suppose you will get anyone to recommend against what Citroen say. If the oil is the Total INEO ECS 5w30, it is quite reasonably priced through ebay, about £25 for 5 litres or maybe about £35 from a dealer.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry I cannot help but maybe coastline taxis could when he is next on the forum.

Welcome to the forum. Was the new crank sensor from a Citroen dealer since sometimes copy parts do not always work as well as dealer supplied ones ? Also check its wiring and connector are in good condition and the sensor is correctly positioned. Often crank sensors do not give a fault code so the lack of one does not mean it is not faulty - you could refit the old one to see if the fault code comes back. It is possible the fault is nothing to do with the crank sensor so you would need to check over the engine for anything obvious such as an air leak, spark plug and ignition cassette faults, fuel injector fault (did the problem occur during rain since injector failure is a common problem). Is the engine coolant temperature being indicated as normal (if there is not a gauge your code reader should give you this on live data) ?

Just need to check first, by serpentine belt I assume you mean the auxiliary belt which does the alternator, steering pump and air con (if you have it) and not the timing belt. For the 138bhp from RPO 9093 Remove :The front right wheelThe front right mud shieldDetension the accessories drive belt by acting on the tensioner pulley screw.Peg the dynamic roller tensioner Using tool [1] - looks like a bit of bent rod.Remove the accessories drive belt .ESSENTIAL : Check that the pulleys turn freely (no tight spots).3. RefittingRefit the ancillary belt .Ensure that the accessories drive belt is correctly positioned in the grooves of the various pulleys.Remove the peg [1].Continue the fitting operations in the reverse order to removal. For the 143 bhp engine with the dynamic roller tensioner, use a tool in the square hole on the tensioner to turn it anti clockwise to release the tension so the belt can be removed.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried using the spare key ? Do not change the key battery though if locked out since the key would then need to be re-initialised by putting the key in the ignition switch, turning so the dash lights up and then holding down the lock button until the doors lock - you should check your handbook for this though in case I have it slightly wrong. It is possible the remote is not working due to interference from something such as a mobile phone, a mobile phone mast, something else - we occasionally got this on our 2003 C3 and a 2005 Picasso, using the key in the door lock worked and later the remote would also work. However, this should not affect using the key in the door lock. Is the problem here the key will not turn in the lock - if so squirting something like wd40 in the key hole and trying the key gradually may free it up.

Welcome to the forum. Could you give some details of the problem with your daughter's car since in the previous posts a few things have been mentioned.

Welcome to the forum. Usually people would try something like ebay to sell things but since you have asked you can put a list on here. We do not have many Xantia owners on here so you may not get much response.

If you have just bought the car, sometimes they are hidden in the drawers under the front seats. To buy one you could try a Citroen dealer, otherwise they can be found on ebay. If there are any things you need to know now just ask on here. If you do your own maintenance the C5 Haynes manual is worth buying and on the C5 Technical section we have a pinned topic of Common Problems to look at. There are also pinned topics on the brakes. If you need to jack the car up you must first raise the suspension to max height so there are no problems caused with the suspension. You also need to use axle stands to support the body if you go under the car since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a low level.

To check properly you either need a good knowledge of the different gearboxes or a look at the parts diagrams to see if they are the same part number across different models. You can see the diagrams as a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on the service.citroen site. Use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car and if you look under Characteristics it will list what your car has as well as looking at the parts diagrams. Once you have the Citroen part number for the gearbox you can search the diagrams for other models with the same one and also use it in such as ebay to source a replacement. You might also consider repairing your gearbox if it has a fault. http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

Welcome to the forum. Is it a Citroen garage you are using and if not have they used Citroen specific diagnostics to decide the fuse box is definitely the problem ? Did the garage give you the fault codes that came up when the anti pollution message was given ? If so what are they ? To check the fuse box Citroen part number you need to look at the parts diagrams which is a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on service.citroen http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp Use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car and then look under Electric unit / General points / Units /connector boards/kits

Citroens do not normally have an alarm as standard, just an immobiliser which needs the key to have a transponder chip in it. The chip has to be matched to the car or it will not work. If you dismantle the key case you should find a little plastic bit in it which is the transponder and if you change the key case with one from a supplier on ebay, it should be put in to the new case as well as the key blade. if it has central locking, the chip may be part of the circuit board in the case and this can also be moved to a new case. If you order a new key from a Citroen dealer using your VIN it should come with the chip already to match your car. If you look at the parts diagrams with your VIN and under Characteristics it will say if your car had an alarm when first built. The parts diagrams are a free service if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club on service.citroen http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

It is probably not the temperature sensor since if that was not working the engine would not start easily or run very well and you have not mentioned that. Also if faulty they often go to maximum quite soon after starting the engine and bring up a high temperature message http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/8589-temperature-gauge-fault-sender-unit/ Possibly there is a loose or bad connection on the gauge. If you want to try the temperature sensor it is located on the gearbox side of the thermostat housing at the end of the cylinder head. Some are screwed in, others are held by a clip.

Welcome to the forum. It may just be a blip and nothing to worry about but you may need to use a Citroen specific code reader to find out what the car thinks is wrong. The service light if it came on at the same time just means the car needs looking at, but if it then went off the problem has gone. You can check the miles to the next service by pushing the speedo button with a spanner on it, possibly with the engine running. If it was not reset when serviced the handbook says how to do this and involves holding down a button on the speedo, turning the ignition switch so the dash lights up, watching the service miles count down to =0 and then releasing the button. Over the last 3 years I have had a similar message (speed control failure) appear for a few seconds and then go on our C5 on 3 occasions whilst accelerating on a motorway, twice towing a caravan. The eml did not come on but I used a Citroen specific code reader and each time showed P0299 but no OBD2/EOBD codes. P0299 fault, turbo pressure regulation - pressure lower than reference value. This could be a problem with a hose (turbo or actuator), the electrical connector, the turbo variable vanes sticking, the pressure sensor. Anyway, since the problem is not happening frequently I have left it but a start would be to use a pressure gauge to compare it against the pressure sensor value.

Did the garage check the disc run out before and after replacing them so they knew the discs were the problem ? It is also possible the problem is the rear brakes and is masked when the fronts are done since the fronts will have been greased/freed up and maybe able to compensate for a problem with the rears. It is possible the hubs were not cleaned up fully each time with a file and a slight bit of damage to the hub surface caused the first judder problem and it was again not removed when the discs were replaced so the judder returned a second time. In the Haynes manual is does include worn suspension as a possible cause of brake judder. You could check the front suspension lower arm rear bushes to see if they look perished. However, if it was a suspension problem then surely it would not disappear just after replacing the discs. I vaguely remember caliper guide bolts can cause judder if worn or bent but I do not know if this applies to the C5.

Maybe it is the MAF if it is the same connected or not. If it was ok, then disconnecting it would put it in limp mode which would limit the performance. You might need to have a diagnostic check, otherwise you may end up replacing parts until you eventually find the fault.