paul.h

Was it a Citroen dealer that did the MOT ? Initial thoughts without seeing the strut is it should probably have been a pass and it the MOT was not at a Citroen dealer then maybe you could get a second opinion at one. The driveshaft is left/held in place at the gearbox end to prevent oil loss. All the bolts around the suspension swivel arm are undone including the link rod and steering track rod to allow the swivel to be moved out of the way. The procedures do not say to fit a new ball joint. The Citroen service box on 3 dvds with the procedures can be bought on ebay and are worth getting.

I have edited the title since the fuse list may be of use.

A link to your similar topic http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23583-load-cover/

Mileage change of about £1 per 100 miles is similar to Direct Line if you need to increase the miles. Much below about 7k miles and there is no saving. You need to watch some companies though since a mid term change can have about £20 admin fee (eg Admiral) even if there is no cost for the change. How you describe your job/retirement/unemployed though can have a big effect. I vaguely remember reading about the unemployed having highest premiums since they may be out going for interviews yet they may be doing the least miles, unlikely to be out in rush hours and can least afford the cost.

An internet search came up with a few possibilities to check. The 3rd one below, damaged wiring, would be a good one to check first. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27943 - perished fuel return pipe behnd the filter letting in air. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/6370-c2-engine-cutting-out-can-anyone-help/ - seems to be a common thing cutting out. Possibly an accelerator pedal problem or a fuel sensor. http://www.c2club.co.uk/archive/index.php/t-17539.html?s=7f9e3cfca306b1b8fcce226c52e67bc5 - damaged wires between the fuel injectors and ecu caused by rubbing against the heater pipes.

Welcome to the forum. Is the servicing up to date including replacing the fuel filter ? Is the engine management light lit up ?

Welcome to the forum. It could be the blower speed control resistor has failed. Possibly Citroen part 6441T6 but this should be checked using your VIN. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEATER-BLOWER-RESISTOR-FOR-CITROEN-C5-01-04-6441T6-WITH-NEW-CONNECTOR-LOOM-/220906056624

The dpf could be bad news, try contacting the previous owner to see what has been done. Possibly it has been internally knocked through and maybe the ecu software changed so that the eolys fluid is no longer being dosed and warning messages being given. Possibly this was done instead of topping up the eolys at 80k miles. From February 2014 this practice was illegal for road going cars and if detected it would fail the MOT as well as insurance companies not covering the car due to a modification that would not pass the MOT. However, if the dpf has only had its insides knocked/drilled through and externally it has not changed, then it would probably still visually pass the MOT. If you got the car from a dealer/trader then you would have a claim against them if this has been done. If the above has been done, then to get the car back to standard would need a new dpf fitting, the eolys topping up and the software putting back. The dpf will not have been blanked off or be blocked since the exhaust gases have to go through it and warning messages are normally given if the dpf blocks up. If it is the dpf that is causing the poor fuel economy and the above has been done, your options may be to look at the cost (at a guess £500) for getting the dpf system working to improve the mpg or do nothing and accept the reduced fuel economy which could be overall cheaper. If you can not get any info from the previous owner, you may be able to see the eolys fluid level in its tank but you could also remove the dpf to see if it is internally in one piece and whilst it is off water jet it to remove any ash that could be blocking it, then put it back and see if the economy improves.

I think the part no. you have given for the front suspension cylinders should be 5271L5 for left side and 5271L6 for right side. Looking at Citroen's procedures, the strut is removed downwards so the driveshaft has to be disconnected from the hub to allow the suspension bits to be moved (after undoing lots of bolts/nuts) to give enough clearance to get the strut out. If it had been removed upwards it would be easy. Labour time is nearly 2 hours. The sphere is removed first so a tool is needed for this. Once the strut is back in place the various bolts/nuts are tightened with the end of the suspension arm 54 mm above a reference point at the inner end but from the picture it is not clear where this is. The driveshaft nut torque setting is 345 Nm so you will need a hefty torque wrench to get this right and when you first need to undo this it may be better to do this at the start with the wheels on the ground. You will need new seals for the pipe and sphere connections. If you do not have the sphere tool and a torque wrench consider the cost of these against the cost of paying Citroen to do the job. Out of interest, was it a Citroen dealer who failed the car on the MOT ? The front struts on C5s often have a misting of lds fluid on them but it is not enough to fail the MOT. It is normal though to wipe this off before the MOT but none Citroen garages may give a fail if not familiar with the C5. You need to depressurize the front suspension but there is a warning to leave the lds tank cap undone if the car is raised on a lift and the wheels left hanging. There was a recent topic where this was not done when doing some work and the lds tank split. 'ESSENTIAL : If raising the vehicle on a lift, wheels hanging, remove the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir. Refit the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir, once you have lowered the vehicle.'

Welcome to the forum. You may be better searching using the Citroen part no. rather than the manufacturer's no. You can get this from the parts diagrams as a free service if you register on service.citroen as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. Use your VIN (VIS) top left on the parts diagrams to find your car and under Electric unit and then in one of the sections Controls under the steering wheel you will find the Citroen no. and if this has changed a replacement part no. If there are any Berlingos in a scrap yard you could use their VIN to see if they have the same part no. http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp You may need to select your language first.

Have you checked the fuses at the wing side of the battery ? According to a wiring diagram for the mark 3 C5 (2008 on model) fuse 1 there goes to a relay that then goes to the pump. This small fuse box BFDB may have a red cover but the fuses look more like fusible links so might need a dealer to supply them, possibly Citroen part no. 6500AV http://www.ebay.com/itm/6500AV-Citroen-C4-C4-Picasso-DS4-C5-X7-Green-40-AMP-Midi-Fuse-/301486224424 . This is from the RTA C5 manual for the 2008 C5 (ISBN 9782726873755 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-Depuis-2008/dp/2726873758 ): BFDB - boitier fusibles depart batterie F1 40 amp groupe electropumpe - calculateur suspension electrohydraulique (suspension pump and its control) F2 70 amp biotier de commande pre-postchauffage (glow plugs) F3 60 amp groupe motoventilateur 2 (radiator fan ?) F4 100 amp boitier commutation protection 2 relais (relays ?) F5 30 amp boitier servitude remorque (?) F6 25 amp prise 12 V arriere + coffre (rear 12 volt socket) F7 15 amp feux antibrouillard (fog lights) F8 20 amp bruleur chauffage additionnel (additional heating) F9 30 amp frein de stationnement electrique (electric handbrake)

Try your finger inside the tail pipe, should come out clean if the dpf is there - at least on our Citroens with a dpf you can see the metal is clean but that was around 50k miles. With a diagnostic check the pressure drop over the dpf would be shown and if high that would indicate if the dpf was blocking up. You might also get a warning message on the car. If anyone has any experience to share of the fuel consumption dropping after replacing a dpf it would be appreciated.

Check if the electrical connector on the pump is in place, there was a post once when this had come loose.

A search suggests the Kia should give about 36 mpg combined so maybe your driving conditions cause you to use about 10% more fuel in your cars. If so then the C5 instead of giving about 47 mpg will give about 42 mpg and this is possibly about what you are getting. £340 seems a bit steep for putting in the eolys fluid. It takes about 3 litres to completely fill, cost about £100 plus labour (book time about 45 minutes) and then a diagnostic to tell the car it has been topped up, otherwise you will get messages saying the level is low. The level is not measured, just calculated on the number of fuel tank fills. People on here say the fluid will continue to be added if you have the warning message if the diagnostic is not done so that the dpf will continue to be regenerated. In the Maintenance book with our 2007 C5 under Particle filter it has for the C5 2.0 hdi; - 80k miles top up eolys 176 fluid - 120k miles replace particle filter (it does not mean replace the eolys fluid). So from this, provided the eolys fluid was topped up at 80k miles it should not need doing again until 160k miles.The dpf however may be due for a change or clean but most people would probably wait until it gave problems due to blocking up. Check the exhaust tailpipe though in case the previous owner had the dpf removed or knocked through.

Welcome to the forum. I can only give general advice. If the original panel is spot welded on then the replacement should also be spot welded (or plug welded) in the same locations. If your welding skills are not good then it may be better to get a body shop to weld the new panel in place. You could do the preparation yourself if you need to keep the cost down but the bodyshop may need to see the old panel in place so they know how it is fastened.

Welcome to the forum, which engine does your car have ?

Citroen's procedures have no mention of timing the pump for the 2.2 hdi DW12UTED engine. This topic has a link to Darwin Diesels who can supply pump parts http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/9041-c5-22-hdi-h-p-diesel-pump-leak-fix/

Welcome to the forum. Citroen's procedures give 3 different methods for removing the pump but special tools are needed. Only 1 method uses removing the timing belt, the others use a tool to hold the pump pulley in place and 1 appears to need the pump to be drilled. All use a tool to remove the pulley from the pump. Official time is about 4 to 5 hours to replace the pump.

'I guess we should see more members contributing....' This applies to many topics on here. Most people can wield a spanner with a bit of confidence but software changes may be beyond most people, even if it may be easy to do if you know what you are doing.

With your described journeys you should be getting decent fuel economy. How does it compare with your previous car ? Maybe try resetting the trip computer for the motorway bit to see what you get, then any warm up/hills/town bits at the start and end will not affect the value and I would think it should be around 50 or more mpg. The best way to check the thermostat is with a code reader that does live data. Then you could see what temperature it is opening. Without one you can let it warm up whilst parked and feel the top radiator hose, when it starts to warm up the thermostat will be opening and then you can compare it against the temp gauge. However, if the gauge is at mid way (9 am/pm) and does not drop when on the motorway I would think the thermostat is ok. Where are you getting your fuel from, maybe you could try a different supplier although having tried Shell you have already done this test ? I use our local Sainsburys since to go anywhere else would involve quite a few miles. You say you have changed the filters, does this include the air filter ? The timing belt is not yet due for changing but do you know if it has been done anyway ? Do you know if the car has had the exhaust particulate filter (dpf) removed or knocked through and if the egr valve has been blanked off and if the engine has been remapped ? These mods can affect the fuel economy. Have a look inside the exhaust tailpipe, it should be clean metal if the dpf is present and working but if it is sooty then it may have been removed. You can also check the maintenance record, the dpf should have been replaced or cleaned and the eolys fluid refilled by now.

A thermostat opening early would not give the eml or any warnings but 4 to 5 mins to reach mid point seems ok. So it looks as if you are doing everything that should give good fuel economy. Cold weather reduces fuel economy due to longer to warm up and also there are winter additives in the diesel so it does not freeze. However, unless your journeys are all short ones it would not make the 5 to 10 mpg difference you are seeing. We have a C4 owner whose fuel economy is bad, even on long runs but these are offset due to driving around London each time. So if you are stuck in traffic in town then this would help explain a poor fuel economy.

If you have the handbook it may include a list of possible problems indicated by the beeps. We had a 2003 C3 and when the battery was low or the fuel level low it would beep. A low cost OBD reader would only give engine fault codes that can affect emissions. You would really need to use the Citroen Lexia diagnostic tool. Chinese copies to put on a lap top are available from ebay for up to £100 or you could go to a Citroen dealer or specialist. The OBD 16 pin socket will be in the glovebox behind a small panel that pulls off. Looking in the parts diagrams, your gear lever is shown for TU5JP4 INJECTION AND GEARBOX MA PILOTE UNTIL RPO 10499 EXCEPT MULTIPLEXING ASSEMBLY CAN CAN. Nothing is shown holding the gear knob on and usually Citroen ones will pull off with a lot of effort whilst keeping your head out of the way. The cover under the lever looks to have 3 or 4 clips to hold it in place so this will also pull up. The complete gear lever assembly is held by 4 nuts and needs the central console removing to get to it. The parts diagrams are a free service if you register on service.citroen as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp You may need to select your language first. Use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. Handbooks can be seen on the service.citroen/ddb/ site but the earliest Pluriel one is 2007. It says if the snow flake and auto signs are flashing it indicates a gearbox fault.

In the C5 sections there is a pinned topic of common problems to look at and also a couple of topics on buying. On here the C5 mark 1 is from 2001 to 2004, the mark 2 from 2004 to 2008 and the mark 3 (X7) from 2008 on.

If you are convinced the problem is due to the oil change then I would be tempted to try a tappet cleaner additive and then change the oil again with a lower viscosity one. If this does not work then you can look into replacing any parts. The Citroen part no. for the hydraulic tappets is 094253 and on ebay they are around £10 each (there are 8 in total) but you should check the part no. using your VIN. When coastline taxis is back on the forum he may have seen this problem before and be able to offer some good advice.

John, just had a look in a November 2009 C5 sales brochure and for the tourer 2.0 hdi 160 6 speed manual gearbox it gives 39.8 / 57.6 / 49.6 mpg for urban / extra urban / combined. Hence the 2008 on C5 model official figures appear to be slightly more fuel efficient than the 2004 to 2008 C5 of adpace8. Something else adpace8 could check and that is if it is getting up to temperature quickly and then staying there - the coolant temperature gauge should be half way after about 2 or 3 miles. If it is not then possibly the thermostat needs replacing since a cool engine will use more fuel.