paul.h

In the side of the doors behind a round sticker you should be able to use a key so they lock when closed - this is in the handbook somewhere. Try a message to coastline taxis about the different comms 2000 units since he looks after a number of Citroens and I think he may have posted in the past that you can use one from another car without it being exactly the same. He will also know if you need a diagnostic to program it to the bsi.

At a guess, has the 1.6 hdi got a failed turbo or is this running ? On the 2.2 hdi, if it is turning over fast enough (about 300 rpm needed to start), you could try something like easy start to see if it fires up. Then if it does you know it has a fuel/immobiliser problem.

How many miles has the car done ? Some time back we had a topic where a C5 had not reached the years for timing belt replacement but had more than exceeded the mileage limit. The timing belt broke and wrote off the engine. As well as the belt and its tensioner, there may also be a pulley and the water pump which do not last forever and should always be replaced when the belt is replaced.

Welcome to the forum. Have you tried a new battery in the key fob since if it needs holding close to the car that could be a sign the battery is low voltage or the signal from the remote is weak. You could check the battery voltage just in case you have replaced it but the new one is no good.

On the 1.6 hdi the dpf is at the engine end of the exhaust, in the vertical section at the front of the engine. I would still have a go with the MAF unplugged and see if it goes a bit better and what the fault codes then come back as, since your last test suggests this is a problem.

When refitting the oil pump, the C4 Haynes manual (page 2C.17) says a 4mm wide bead of sealant should be applied to the cylinder block mating surface and the oil seal on the pump should be replaced. It says new oil pumps include the new seal and it has a protector sleeve so it is not damaged when fitting over the crankshaft. For the cost of a Haynes manual it may be worthwhile getting one or look in your local library to see if they have a copy. One thing about a strainer that needs to be considered, it may not block up gradually so frequent checks may not prevent a sudden blockage.

Welcome to the forum. From Citroen's procedures (below) it appears the special tool prevents further damage, so if it is expensive consider paying to have the track rod replaced, it is less than 1 hour labour , about 1½ hours including setting up the tracking afterwards. ESSENTIAL : The tool [ 2] - Steering rack anti-rotation device (-).0721 - should positioned on the gearing of the steering rack, on the left with Left Hand Drive and on the right with Right Hand Drive.N.B. : The tool [ 2] prevents damage to the steering mechanism during operations to remove-refit steering track rods.

Thanks for keeping us up to date, we are all learning from your experience. I looked in the Citroen service box procedure for turbo replacement but could not find anything on checking the oil flow unless there is a Technical bulletin, but it does say to remove the banjo oil strainer. Where did you get the info from that the oil flow should be 300 ml/minute ?

To check the cam timing you will need to remove the timing belt covers which could be almost as much work as replacing the timing belt. So if the belt has not been changed recently and you are paying somebody to do the work, I would also consider replacing it. If you do replace it then the pulleys and water pump should be replaced.

I think you are not supposed to fit another filter to the banjo bolt when you replace the turbo, just remove the old one. If the new one has smaller holes than the old then it is even more likely to block, as well as give a higher pressure drop and reduce the oil flow (which may be off set by the larger filter).

Welcome to th eforum. You could check the bulb electrical connector for clean contacts and voltage and earth using a meter. If no voltage then trace the wire back to see if there is a voltage at the fuse box and see if it is a wiring problem.

This topic on the steering motor is worth a look: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21737-electric-power-steering-problem-pulling-to-one-side/

Does the engine turn over on the starter motor, just thinking if it has not been used for 6 years it may have seized up as well as the brakes being seized and possibly lots of other problems. The fuel in the tank may have gone off and need cleaning out as well as the fuel lines and fuel filter. The air con if not used for a few months will have dried out the seals which will have leaked out the refrigerant, so needing new seals, compressor, dryer and then a regass. Maybe before you start spending any money you could look at the scrap value and the cost of a working car to see if it is worth saving.

What is wrong with the power steering ? Some cars have an electric pump which may not work if the battery is low voltage.

Welcome to the forum. If it is not the speed control resistor, then it could be a fuse, a wiring or connector problem or the blower itself at fault.

If it has an immobiliser problem you would be best to use a Citroen dealer diagnostic tool (Lexia) to find out what is wrong. It could be the transponder at the ignition switch, a key problem (try the spare) or something else. The battery also needs to be about 12.5 volts, any less and the car will not work correctly. The brakes are easy to sort out, there are pinned topics on cleaning them but leave this until the immobiliser problem is sorted.

Looking in the Haynes manual it gives the minimum oil pressure for oil at 80°C (110°C in the Citroen service box procedure after checking the oil level) as 1.3 bar at 1000 rpm and 3.5 bar at 4000 rpm. This would also depend on the oil being used. If you are measuring the flow with cold oil it will likely change as the oil heats up and becomes less viscous. Citroen's procedures show an oil filter cover being used with a pressure gauge tapping on it, so pressures measured here may be a bit different to ones at the pressure switch.

As well as replacing the turbo the oil feed pipe filter should be removed and the sump cleaned out as well as the oil and oil filter replaced. If the turbo was replaced since it had failed and put metal in the engine then if this is not cleaned out the new turbo may not last. Edit - I have seen in your other topic about this that you have done these. An alternative to stopping the fuel reaching the engine would be to stop the air supply but this is in Citroen's procedures for the 110 bhp 1.6 hdi, so likely disconnecting the injector electrical connectors will give a fault code: 4. Precautions to be taken before starting the vehicleDisconnect the connector of the diesel injectors.Turn the engine over with the starter motor for 15 seconds.Reconnect : The diesel injector connectors .Let the engine run at idle for 30 seconds before increasing the load.After switching on, check the sealing of the various unions.Clear the faults in the memory ; Using the diagnostic equipment.

There is a Haynes manual for the C4. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Citroen-Service-Repair-Manual-2004-2010/dp/0857335766/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451770185&sr=8-1&keywords=c4+haynes+manual In it there are 2 makes of caliper, Bosch and Teves, with the Bosch one being on all models apart from the 2.0 hdi. On the Bosch one it shows the caliper lower bolt (hex head) is removed and then the caliper pivoted up so the pads can be removed. If the pads need replacing then chances are the discs are also worn enough to need replacing and then the caliper carrier will need removing and Haynes shows it uses torx head bolts needing a torx bit to undo. To check on all the bolts you only need to put the steering on full lock one way and then look under the car at the front brakes, it is not necessary to jack the car up and remove a wheel. Haynes gives the disc thicknesses as: 266 mm diameter disc - new 22 mm, minimum 20 mm. 283 and 302 mm diameter discs - new 26 mm, minimum 24 mm. Also it gives the disc maximum run out 0.05 mm which should be checked when new discs are fitted so that the brakes do not start to judder after being used for some time.

Welcome to the forum. It could be a tracking problem or a problem with the electric steering rack motor. If you go to a garage you would be better using a Citroen one to have it checked. If the tracking is adjusted it should be equal over both sides so the number of threads visible where the track rods ends are fastened to the rack are the same at each side. As a first step though you could try a battery disconnection and reconnection since this sometimes fixes odd electrical problems. If your front coil springs have broken these are often replaced free by Citroen, we had them replaced on our 2003 C3 and the rear ones on our current 2010 C3 without having to pay. The replacement springs should both have the same colour bands on them as the old ones or the suspension will behave differently. If you decide to try the battery disconnection, the following is from the Common Problems pinned topic: 20. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Welcome to the forum. I am not sure I can help but do you think the splines on a drive shaft in a cv joint is worn so that it is slipping ? Is it worse going round a bend ? Does the esp light just come on for a short time as though the esp is being activated or is it on all the time ?

'You don't buy an old 2.2 for economy' A 2.2 hdi makes sense if you tow a caravan due to its heavier kerb weight and extra power. Also if you do not do many miles, one in good condition makes more sense than a 2.0 hdi in poor condition for similar purchase cost but on the mark 1 there is the dpf to consider which the 2.0 hdi does not have.

On the mark 2 C5 (2004 to 2008 model), the front fog lights are separate lights low down at the front, whereas on the mark 1 C5 they are built in to the headlight - so this may be the reason the mark 2 has drl kits.

Official mpg figures from a 2003 C5 brochure for the hatchback 2.2 hdi 136 bhp with 6 speed gearbox: - urban 32.5 mpg - extra urban 58.9 mpg - combined 44.8 mpg. A 2.0 hdi 110 bhp5 speed is given as 38.2 / 61.4 / 50.4 mpg. So from this you should be expecting to get about 45 mpg without doing any mods to the engine/ecu. You could check if the swirl flap actuator rod at the gearbox end of the cylinder head is still in place and the plastic cup on the joint is not broken. We had a 2004 C5 with this engine and gearbox (6 speed is not rare) and without any mods other than normal maintenance. On motorway long runs could get 50 mpg or a bit higher provided the speed was kept 65 to 70 mph, any more and the mpg would drop. This was with careful driving, no hard accelerating, no hard braking, not accelerating up hills. At the end of the motorway the mpg would suffer once going through towns. Also if the weather was bad it would suffer since going into a strong wind knocks the mpg down. We now have a 2007 C5 estate with the 2.2 hdi 173 bhp engine and 6 speed gearbox. This uses a bit more fuel than our previous C5 hatchback for the same type of trips/driving style.

Welcome to the forum. Have a look on something like eurocarparts web site or ebay to see if the same part numbers come up.